I need to replace my Nad M25 Power amplifier.

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I checked each of the amps on the Outlaw site, they all indicated made in USA except for the ones I mentioned made in China and Taiwan. Not that companies don't sometimes follow all the labeling rules....seen plenty of bullshit in my career as a US Customs Broker/international freight forwarder.

Yeah, I think the ones made in the USA are from ATI. The ones made in China and Taiwan are not made by ATI.

 

[Verdinut]

The only bad thing about the Monolith 200x5 amp is that it has the name "Monoprice" on there so people will think it's cheap crap.

But it is made by ATI in California with 5 YR ATI-warranty, so I would definitely take the Monolith over the Emotiva or any other "consumer" amp even close to the price range.

They really should change that "Monoprice" name completely.

Monoprice like it because their multichannel amps sell for less than the price of one of those expensive boutique monoblocks!

 

[Pablo2k]

The Crown speakers with some
Just curious, what about repairing the NAD?

I took the Nad apart, and I see exactly where the problem is. It’s a capacitor. I ordered one and I will have one of the electricians at work solder it for me.
I am just getting ready in case that when I bring the board back home, something else might break.
I will have my fire stinguisher in hand just in case!!!

 

[Pablo2k]

If it makes a difference, I have B&W 683 in front, 684 in back and htm61 center.

Another thing I forgot mention is that even thou it looks like it’s just a capacitor on my Nad M25, when I took it apart, it almost look like if some of the components “rusted” or “leak fluid” or something, it just looks like aged. I wonder if there was a short that made the capacitor go.
By rusted I don’t mean rust, but almost like a battery leaking inside a remote control.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

Monoprice like it because their multichannel amps sell for less than the price of those expensive boutique monoblocks!

Yeah, the Monolith 200x5 amp has a great price for consumer amps.

Personally, because I have an equipment closet and don't have to show off my amps, I think I would get the Crown XLS 1002 from Amazon. I've seen them from Amazon Warehouse for about $220 each.

10 x 200 watts for $1,100 is pretty good.

That's it, I'm selling my ATI AT3005 and AT2005!

 

[lovinthehd]

Yeah, I think the ones made in the USA are from ATI. The ones made in China and Taiwan are not made by ATI.

Could be a contract manufacturer, maybe their own facility....hard to know.

 

[Verdinut]

Yeah, the Monolith 200x5 amp has a great price for consumer amps.

Personally, because I have an equipment closet and don't have to show off my amps, I think I would get the Crown XLS 1002 from Amazon. I've seen them from Amazon Warehouse for about $220 each.

10 x 200 watts for $1,100 is pretty good.

That's it, I'm selling my ATI AT3005 and AT2005!

If your equipment closet is big enough, it becomes handy to make Double Blind tests!

 

[Winkleswizard]

If it makes a difference, I have B&W 683 in front, 684 in back and htm61 center.

Another thing I forgot mention is that even thou it looks like it’s just a capacitor on my Nad M25, when I took it apart, it almost look like if some of the components “rusted” or “leak fluid” or something, it just looks like aged. I wonder if there was a short that made the capacitor go.
By rusted I don’t mean rust, but almost like a battery leaking inside a remote control.

Felt I should point out that your Onkyo is getting more than a little long in tooth as well. Have you considered replacing it? Can get some pretty good power in AVR for comparable spend as that Monolith amp...

Ww

 

[Pablo2k]

Felt I should point out that your Onkyo is getting more than a little long in tooth as well. Have you considered replacing it? Can get some pretty good power in AVR for comparable spend as that Monolith amp...

Ww

I really don’t want to get rid off my Nad M15HD2
It has 8vrms pre outs and dual hdmi which I need for the projector.
It has everything I need and I have the Audyssay Pro Kit for it, the serial key alone cost me $150.
The direct replacement for this unit is the M17, but it cost $5k and with kids I no longer have that kind of money to replace.

 

[PENG]

By mains, I meant left, center and right. Though I could rationalize just being left and right depending on how well the center matches the others...

Btw, am not the OP, but like the SPL calc suggestion ! As long as the NAD was sufficient power, might be able to forgo as long as they meet or exceed it. Notably, if they are using their AVR amplification to drive speakers too. Might be able to save some money by using less power. Unclear why their Onkyo AVR was insufficient power for that matter?

Ww

I don't even understand what the OP meant by bridged front. People typically don't bridge AVRs. Even with separate power amps, one shouldn't bridge them unless the amp is designed to be bridged and in bridge mode the minimum load impedance would typically be 8 ohms, not 4 ohms.

By the way, so you are not the OP, but still, if you think you need more than 200 watts per channel you should use the calculator to find out what your actual needs are first. Chances are you may be surprised to see less than 50 watts might get you THX reference level in your room and that is very high spl. In that case 200 watts would be quite sufficient.

 

[PENG]

I’ve been reading a lot about how the monolith is made by ati, and how quiet and great the Crown 1502 are.
I can have the Crowns, three of them for $399 each, or the Monoprice for $1299 (I don’t know why coupon dad15 don’t work for me) and shipping isn’t free either.
What’s nice about having three crowns is that if one breaks I don’t have to replace them all.
What’s nice about Monoprice is that it has 5yr warranty.
About the input in the Crown it says low or 1.7volts.
My Nad M15HD2 says 8vrms, wouldn’t that bee a problem??
I wish I could audition them but I can’t.
All I can say is that I like the Nad M25 sound, and before that, I had a TX NR902 ONKYO wich I also liked, it just wasn’t powerful enough (165w but only when two driven) the Nad M25 was minimum 160w all 7 channels driven and THX certified.

I’ll be doing 90% movies 10% or even less music.
Thank you for all the replies.

The M25 is no more powerful than the XLS 1502 or the Monolith so if you go with either you won't miss the power. B&W recommended amplifier power for the 683 S2 is only 25-200 W into 8 ohm. They do dip down to 3 ohms but that's not a problem for any of the amps suggested so far.

I thought you have a TX NR906, that is a powerful AVR, no idea what the TX NR902 is, was it a typo? And what you do mean by "bridged fronts"? Did you mean bi-amp? That would be entirely different than bridging.

 

[PENG]

I took the Nad apart, and I see exactly where the problem is. It’s a capacitor. I ordered one and I will have one of the electricians at work solder it for me.
I am just getting ready in case that when I bring the board back home, something else might break.
I will have my fire stinguisher in hand just in case!!!

If it is one of big ones in the power supply, you should change them all if the unit is much older than 10 years. Expensive though..

 

[Winkleswizard]

I really don’t want to get rid off my Nad M15HD2
It has 8vrms pre outs and dual hdmi which I need for the projector.
It has everything I need and I have the Audyssay Pro Kit for it, the serial key alone cost me $150.
The direct replacement for this unit is the M17, but it cost $5k and with kids I no longer have that kind of money to replace.

Understood, did not know as the NAD processor was not on your equipment list. In that case, I would be in no hurry to replace and my kids are all adults now!

The Monolith amp seems to be your best value if you really need that sort of power, but you know from your NAD. OTOH, I have the older version of the Emotiva A-500 and it does just fine in my family room. My couch is about halfway (12 feet) from my TV and I use speakers that are about the same sensitivity as your B&Ws...

Ww

 

[Pablo2k]

The M25 is no more powerful than the XLS 1502 or the Monolith so if you go with either you won't miss the power. B&W recommended amplifier power for the 683 S2 is only 25-200 W into 8 ohm. They do dip down to 3 ohms but that's not a problem for any of the amps suggested so far.

I thought you have a TX NR906, that is a powerful AVR, no idea what the TX NR902 is, was it a typo? And what you do mean by "bridged fronts"? Did you mean bi-amp? That would be entirely different than bridging.

Sorry for the confusion.
I’m the OP
I have a M15HD2 and the M25 (smaller cap broke) 35v 3300uf
I do have a TX-NR906 in the bedroom.
Maybe I mentioned it because I liked the sound signature it had, but it wasn’t powerful enough.
I’m not talking power like I want it louder, it just seems like the M25 drives my speakers more effortless.

 

[Pablo2k]

And no, I’m not bridging.

 

[PENG]

Sorry for the confusion.
I’m the OP
I have a M15HD2 and the M25 (smaller cap broke) 35v 3300uf
I do have a TX-NR906 in the bedroom.
Maybe I mentioned it because I liked the sound signature it had, but it wasn’t powerful enough.
I’m not talking power like I want it louder, it just seems like the M25 drives my speakers more effortless.

That's good, so you don't need a replacement amp after all.

 

[Winkleswizard]

I took the Nad apart, and I see exactly where the problem is. It’s a capacitor. I ordered one and I will have one of the electricians at work solder it for me.
I am just getting ready in case that when I bring the board back home, something else might break.
I will have my fire stinguisher in hand just in case!!!

I had a comparable event happen recently with a Phillips CD player. It was a power supply cap. Along with the cap, it took out a regulator and the fuse. While not a very big cap, it cost me about $100 to get fixed. I only paid $15 for the diagnosis.

So, if you blew a power supply cap, expect you also (at least) need a fuse too. Also, if you either hope to get it back or sell it, would urge you to take it to a repair shop. The primary rule of blown fuses is not to replace them without knowing what caused them to blow. Sounds as though you have some other equipment around to handle the time it takes to service. If you just wing it, you may cause more damage.

Hope this helps...

Ww

 

[lovinthehd]

And no, I’m not bridging.

Your equipment list indicates "...906 Bridged Fronts"

 

[Pablo2k]

Your equipment list indicates "...906 Bridged Fronts"

I’m sorry I understand now. I haven’t been on audioholics in many years.
I will update.
Thank you.

 

[Pablo2k]

I had a comparable event happen recently with a Phillips CD player. It was a power supply cap. Along with the cap, it took out a regulator and the fuse. While not a very big cap, it cost me about $100 to get fixed. I only paid $15 for the diagnosis.

So, if you blew a power supply cap, expect you also (at least) need a fuse too. Also, if you either hope to get it back or sell it, would urge you to take it to a repair shop. The primary rule of blown fuses is not to replace them without knowing what caused them to blow. Sounds as though you have some other equipment around to handle the time it takes to service. If you just wing it, you may cause more damage.

Hope this helps...

Ww

Thank you for the replay.
I noticed that the capacitor blew a tiny hole on the side. That’s where the sparks came from.
Right next to the hole you can see all the black dust on the board.
I know what you mean and I’m afraid that maybe something else cause the cap to failed.
Maybe it won’t be as an easy fix, that’s why I’m getting ready in case I need to replace the amp.
I’m hoping that it will get fix with just that.

 

[AcuDefTechGuy]

I really don’t want to get rid off my Nad M15HD2
It has 8vrms pre outs and dual hdmi which I need for the projector.
It has everything I need and I have the Audyssay Pro Kit for it, the serial key alone cost me $150.
The direct replacement for this unit is the M17, but it cost $5k and with kids I no longer have that kind of money to replace.

Absolutely no need to replace anything that’s not broken.