Home Made SubDude and Speaker Stand Risers

[BriDown]

Hey All, got the stuff together for Pre and Post Riser tinkering. Thank you to anyone who showed an interest and checks this stuff out. I'd like to start out with- I subjectively hear a difference (surprise I know). Bass is tighter and cleaner and I hear more the lower bass where as before it sounded more muffled/muddied. This is not going to be very scientific, but I thought it fun. Here it is...

I made no changes on the receiver except I lowered all speakers to -12db, the Sub to 0db and volume to 50 (it is relative volume according to Onkyo). You can still hear the surrounds, but they are not interfering. I recorded the Subwoofer with my phone, an HTC One. It records in stereo in video mode only. Reviews state the phone records better than others. But still lacking, I am sure. I chose the song 'Sail' by AWOLNation. It has a good running deep bassline combined with hard hits. When I playback the recordings, I get slight distortion. I am not sure if it is phone or my speakers- bass is pretty low. I recorded at spots one and two. Link below.

What I think I heard. Pre and Post Videos. I think in both Post 1 and 2 I 'hear' the running bassline and hits better and clearer with less noise and distortion. However, even though the wavelengths of position 1 Pre and Post illustrate that, wavelengths of position 2 Post 1 and 2 does not clearly show that with the running bass. Although, I think it does show the hits better. I made it with MS Movie Maker, a great free program. In the program, it shows the Wavelengths of the video. That is what I am referring to. I then converted to mp4/264. I have the original Movie Projects if anyone wants to see them with wavelengths. It helped me to see the wavelengths and hear them at the same time to notice differences. I did copy the wavelengths to jpg so they can be seen and are attached here for comparison.



I thought it fun to use an SPL Meter to see if anything was going on. I am not sure here what is considered observable or negligible differences. I used my Speaker Configuration setting for my subwoofer which uses White Noise. You can see the differences. On pts 3 and 4 I stood two feet inside the doorway. I used a Radio Shack Digital Sound Level Meter. I set it to 80, Response Slow and Weighting C. I used a tripod and pointed the mic at the sound source as the instructions stated.



When I run Audyssey, I record the lvl's because I am always messing with them. This afternoon once I was done with this stuff, I re-ran Audyssey. Last time it set the Subwoofer to -1, this time -2.5. Lastly, I have never had luck streaming videos from Skydrive/Onedrive. I recommend downloading. They aren't that big.

Share Folder with Videos 1 and 2 as well as full size jpg's.
http://1drv.ms/1kVuJrX

Was it worth it? For me it was. Draw your own conclusions .

Brian

 

[BriDown]

So I have lived with this setup for a few weeks. My bass is tighter than it was before and their has been added clarity in the LFE 'runs/grooves' Walking bass lines do not overlap or muffle each other. However, I am not completely satisfied. My bass sounds 'hollow' in all these accounts. The hard hits that peak than resonate probably can sound much better with my set up. I want better.

No one commented on my last few posts, so not sure what to think there, if anything. But a Google Search will yield this thread as a result- so even if this post is beneath others, this journey may help others who are researching the same things.

I still experienced considerable vibration between my Sub and Riser, both shook during LFE Bass. Surprisingly, that vibration was minimized between rise and floor. So did something right there. To combat this, I purchased MapleShade's IsoBlocks to put between my Sub and Riser. I noticed another difference, less Boomy Bass. But the bass still sounded hollow to my ears. I also ordered Herbie's Giant Fat Dots to experiment with but have not got them yest. For this application, I will reinstall my stock 'rubber' cones placing the thinner diameter against my Sub so the thicker diameter will fit perfectly on the Dots. I kinda expect the same results, but we will see. I was told and believe the characteristics I am experiencing are because of the materials I used.

Latest- I ordered an unfinished 18x24x4 with 3 width Edge Boards to minimize the number of boards for its construction. I did not want order from Mapleshade, too expensive. I called Mills, Customer Furniture Makes, Amish Outfits... etc in efforts to find an affordable solid piece of Maple. I found one who wanted 600 (yea right) for rough cut and everywhere else no go. I spoke at length with Timbernation, Mapleshade and other Audio Manufacturers about this setup, they felt it would yield good results. I wanted it unfinished because I have read that oil-based stains change the surface properties as does lacquer finishes. I plan to finish it with a simple water-based stain without any of the fancy outdoor use ingredients. I am not going to lacquer it. I have ordered and plan on using 2.1 Brass Floor Cones / Speaker Spikes from 'Brass and Granite Audio.' Going to use the 1/4-20 from Platform to pierce carpet floor and use the M6 (that is what my sub is) from Subwoofer to Riser. The Maple Riser weighs roughly 39lbs. I got all this for a really good price after chatting them up and describing what I had been doing and what I wanted to do. In return, they asked I share my results not only with them, but the end result of the experiment. The other forums I belong to have been very receptive and curious to see that happens.

Finally, since being told Maple is the best natural wood for these purposes, I plan to do a Revision 2 of my Riser if the Block wood yields very positive results- the experiment R2 Riser will go to my Father. I hope to gain more depth and fullness in bass without the crude boominess. We want more controlled colorization. I think this may be able to be duplicated (to a lesser degree) by building a similar riser as before but with modifications. I can get 1 5/8's sheets of Maple from a local guy in widths of 12,15 and 18. Length is not too limited. I would use this board as the top sheet. Like before, recessed from the top board I would construct 1x4 Maple sides making a box. This time, I would not put a bottom on the box, it would be open to prevent a cavity that captures and holds sound/vibration, regardless of material put inside of it. In the open box I would use something similar to Auralex Studio Foam or Soft Sound Pyramid Studio Foam. Before I used legs. I again would not want this Riser to sit directly on the carpet- despite protests here I have been well informed that is a no no as u make another seal and carpet is just awful. Since the side rails are 1" thick, I or the user have lead way on what to use for floor coupling or decoupling. Could use Cone Spikes from Riser to Floor. Another alternative would be use IsoPads or Giant Fat Dots (although these would need stacked and are not good on carpet) or any other discovered or preferred means. From Sub to Riser, could use Cone Spikes or the before mentioned items. However, with this setup, I think Spikes might do the trick. Again, I would only stain the item with a water based stain with no frills. I've had a couple people interested in me making one for them if it 'pans' out. Personally, I will stay with the 18x24x4 if it is what I hope it is. But this latter idea on building would be cheaper especially if a couple people want one- shared material costs if more than one built.

As always, will follow up and post my thoughts here even if 'the forest is silent.'

Brian

 

[j_garcia]

Thanks for the follow up. Not the result you expected, and sort of not what I expected either, but that's why you try it out

Let me just tell you now, avoid Mapleshade like the plague.

 

[afterlife2]

No worries about forest people, they are just look to learn like everyone else. Looking foward to your findings. You should get a subdude and compare.

 

[BriDown]

My brother has a Subdude. I was not completely impressed. But that could have been the factors- he recently moved into an old farm house that has the original beautiful wood floors. They're uneven and creek, lol. He's not sure yet what to do with them... doesn't want to lose their charm, they have the old square head nails and are 3/4" thick- beautiful. I told him to stay away from an industrial sander, sink the square heads down further, air nail the bad parts and belt sand the remaining finish and stain. Then redo them. Keep em real. So his Subdude is not exactly solid, lol, and that old room really booms. So maybe I am being unfair... BUT-

I got this today! It is absolutely Gorgeous!





It is 24x18x4 Hard White Maple Block. I got it from timbernation.com . The guys name is Chris Futrick. I spoke to him at length and he is a little rough around the edges, but a joy to talk to. He gave me one hell of a deal plus free 2 day shipping on a 44lb item- I was amazed. Also, considering he built it after my order the turn around was pretty fast. However, is not that great about email communication, lol. Now I need to stain it. Going to stain it with water-based Onyx stain. I am not going to finish it right away, which is why I got it naked. I did research on best stain and finish for 'sound' and interestingly came across several articles on Instruments and how stains, but more so, finishes effect the sound. Most used examples were guitars and violins. But I thought I could crossover the ideas for this. From what I gather, different stains will effect the surface properties of the wood. In my opinion, for my application, a water-based stain would be best. I say naked for now, because most of what I read says naked wood is always best sounding that way. But it is completely unrealistic for an instrument to go naked. "They" say the best finish for sound is the closest finish to nothing. But a positive to finish, is it does increase the resonant properties. Then again, with a hard wood, this might not be necessary. So I'll try it and see. Another 'need' or benefit to finish is it protects the wood- moisture and warping, durability... etc. With a block this big in a house that maintains a year round temperature and relative humidity, that part of it doesn't worry me too much. Finishing also protects it from coloring with age... I don't know if a simple stain will do the same. I have never not finished something. So I am not sure what I will do here, will have to have a listen first. If or when I do finish, I will either use a thin coat of Water-Based Lacquer or Nitrocellulose Lacquer. The latter would be better but I read it is hard to work with and that makes me nervous on such a beautiful piece of wood... not to mention sucks for the environment.

So I will keep you updated (anyone who cares ) on this project... Part 2.

Brian

 

[BriDown]

I finished staining it and set it up. It looks beautiful and sounds incredible! I am finally satisfied, lol.

 

[afterlife2]

Congrats! Pics please!

 

[BriDown]

Pics. I tried to Antique the block a little so it matched the rest of our furniture. It has no finish and I dont plan on adding one. I really can't believe how good it sounds!



Edit: Tried uploading additional pics but no matter the size I made them, said quota was exceeded. Never had that problem before.

 

[j_garcia]

Need to get the little discs that go with those spikes so you don't damage the surface. Looks really nice.

 

[afterlife2]

Looks amazing. I am glad that you are now, HAPPY! Enjoy.