So I have lived with this setup for a few weeks. My bass is tighter than it was before and their has been added clarity in the LFE 'runs/grooves' Walking bass lines do not overlap or muffle each other. However, I am not completely satisfied. My bass sounds 'hollow' in all these accounts. The hard hits that peak than resonate probably can sound much better with my set up. I want better.
No one commented on my last few posts, so not sure what to think there, if anything. But a
Google Search will yield this thread as a result- so even if this post is beneath others, this journey may help others who are researching the same things.
I still experienced considerable vibration between my Sub and Riser, both shook during LFE Bass. Surprisingly, that vibration was minimized between rise and floor. So did something right there. To combat this, I purchased MapleShade's IsoBlocks to put between my Sub and Riser. I noticed another difference, less Boomy Bass. But the bass still sounded hollow to my ears. I also ordered Herbie's Giant Fat Dots to experiment with but have not got them yest. For this application, I will reinstall my stock 'rubber' cones placing the thinner diameter against my Sub so the thicker diameter will fit perfectly on the Dots. I kinda expect the same results, but we will see. I was told and believe the characteristics I am experiencing are because of the materials I used.
Latest- I ordered an unfinished 18x24x4 with 3 width Edge Boards to minimize the number of boards for its construction. I did not want order from Mapleshade, too expensive. I called Mills, Customer Furniture Makes, Amish Outfits... etc in efforts to find an affordable solid piece of Maple. I found one who wanted 600 (yea right) for rough cut and everywhere else no go. I spoke at length with Timbernation, Mapleshade and other Audio Manufacturers about this setup, they felt it would yield good results. I wanted it unfinished because I have read that oil-based stains change the surface properties as does lacquer finishes. I plan to finish it with a simple water-based stain without any of the fancy outdoor use ingredients. I am not going to lacquer it. I have ordered and plan on using 2.1 Brass Floor Cones / Speaker Spikes from 'Brass and Granite Audio.' Going to use the 1/4-20 from Platform to pierce carpet floor and use the M6 (that is what my sub is) from Subwoofer to Riser. The Maple Riser weighs roughly 39lbs. I got all this for a really good price after chatting them up and describing what I had been doing and what I wanted to do. In return, they asked I share my results not only with them, but the end result of the experiment. The other forums I belong to have been very receptive and curious to see that happens.
Finally, since being told Maple is the best natural wood for these purposes, I plan to do a Revision 2 of my Riser if the Block wood yields very positive results- the experiment R2 Riser will go to my Father. I hope to gain more depth and fullness in bass without the crude boominess. We want more controlled colorization. I think this may be able to be duplicated (to a lesser degree) by building a similar riser as before but with modifications. I can get 1 5/8's sheets of Maple from a local guy in widths of 12,15 and 18. Length is not too limited. I would use this board as the top sheet. Like before, recessed from the top board I would construct 1x4 Maple sides making a box. This time, I would not put a bottom on the box, it would be open to prevent a cavity that captures and holds sound/vibration, regardless of material put inside of it. In the open box I would use something similar to Auralex Studio Foam or Soft Sound Pyramid Studio Foam. Before I used legs. I again would not want this Riser to sit directly on the carpet- despite protests here I have been well informed that is a no no as u make another seal and carpet is just awful. Since the side rails are 1" thick, I or the user have lead way on what to use for floor coupling or decoupling. Could use Cone Spikes from Riser to Floor. Another alternative would be use IsoPads or Giant Fat Dots (although these would need stacked and are not good on carpet) or any other discovered or preferred means. From Sub to Riser, could use Cone Spikes or the before mentioned items. However, with this setup, I think Spikes might do the trick. Again, I would only stain the item with a water based stain with no frills. I've had a couple people interested in me making one for them if it 'pans' out. Personally, I will stay with the 18x24x4 if it is what I hope it is. But this latter idea on building would be cheaper especially if a couple people want one- shared material costs if more than one built.
As always, will follow up and post my thoughts here even if 'the forest is silent.'
Brian
