HDMI Fiber Optic Cables

[PWRmx24]

I want to make sure I'm getting the 4K UHD signal to my projector (see signature).
I read that HDCP 2.2 requires not just any high speed cable when going beyond 10 feet otherwise the picture can be purposefully downgraded by the player if a proper handshake does not occur. I have these cables: "Amazon Basics HDMI Cable, 25ft, 4K@60Hz, High-Speed 4K HDMI 2.0 Cord (18Gbps), 2160p, 48 bit, Compatible with TV/PS5/Xbox/Roku, Black"
Am considering getting HDMI fiber optic just to make sure......I will have to use the Sony Blu-ray player's seperate HDMI outputs....one for video and the other for audio.
any thoughts on just getting the "Amazon Basics HDMI Fiber Optic Cable, 18Gbps High-Speed, 4K@60Hz, 2160p, 48-Bit Color, Ethernet Ready, 50 feet, Black"???

 

[TLS Guy]

I want to make sure I'm getting the 4K UHD signal to my projector (see signature).
I read that HDCP 2.2 requires not just any high speed cable when going beyond 10 feet otherwise the picture can be purposefully downgraded by the player if a proper handshake does not occur. I have these cables: "Amazon Basics HDMI Cable, 25ft, 4K@60Hz, High-Speed 4K HDMI 2.0 Cord (18Gbps), 2160p, 48 bit, Compatible with TV/PS5/Xbox/Roku, Black"
Am considering getting HDMI fiber optic just to make sure......I will have to use the Sony Blu-ray player's seperate HDMI outputs....one for video and the other for audio.
any thoughts on just getting the "Amazon Basics HDMI Fiber Optic Cable, 18Gbps High-Speed, 4K@60Hz, 2160p, 48-Bit Color, Ethernet Ready, 50 feet, Black"???

You do need a fiber optic cable for sure. There are now cables where the audio and video can be fiber, if hybrid then the video is fiber, and the audio copper. These cables are directional ane need power, You need to have HDMI HDCP version 2.3 to power the cables. If you use lower versions, then you will need a voltage inserter or you will blow your HDMI board.

Sending video and audio separately sounds like a mess and likely create all kinds of problems.
Get a good cable like Ruipro or equivalent or you will be in a pile of hurt. This is not something to go cheap on.

 

[PWRmx24]

Mmm.....I was thinking HDMI 2.0 spec required the player to provide 5V.

 

[TLS Guy]

Mmm.....I was thinking HDMI 2.0 spec required the player to provide 5V.

Yes, but it can't provide the current. It can only provide 30 ma, and these powered cables require much more.
Only HDCP 2.3 spec allows for 300 ma. So unless you have the latest receiver that has one of those HDMI power ports rated at 300 ma you need a voltage inserter or you will blow your HDMI board and be in a pile of hurt. It will clearly mark the port if it can provide the power, it is usually the eARC output port on newer units that have those ports and this change is very recent, so be careful.

We have had members here make that mistake and it is a really costly mistake and usually means new receiver time, as the usual situation is no parts available. So, be careful!

 

[PWRmx24]

I'll have to figure out how to see up a "voltage inserter". Learn something new every day.

 

[TLS Guy]

I'll have to figure out how to see up a "voltage inserter". Learn something new every day.

They come in two varieties. AC powered from a 'wall wart' AC transformer and USB powered. You can power from either end of the cable which ever is handiet, so at the receiver or TV end of the cable. But the arrows on the converters on the cable must point from receiver to TV.

 

[PWRmx24]

So just to confirm. I have separate audio and video cables going out of my Blu-ray player because my AVR only supports 1080p. I now have the BR player in the middle of the room so the audio cable (on a high speed cable) goes 25 ft) and the video cable (10K 8K 4K HDMI Cable 48Gbps 10 FT, Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI® Cable 4K 240Hz 144Hz 120Hz 8K60Hz 0.01ms HDR10+ eARC HDCP2.3) cable goes 10 ft. That's not a good idea? Still need fiber optic with power insert?

 

[TLS Guy]

So just to confirm. I have separate audio and video cables going out of my Blu-ray player because my AVR only supports 1080p. I now have the BR player in the middle of the room so the audio cable (on a high speed cable) goes 25 ft) and the video cable (10K 8K 4K HDMI Cable 48Gbps 10 FT, Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI® Cable 4K 240Hz 144Hz 120Hz 8K60Hz 0.01ms HDR10+ eARC HDCP2.3) cable goes 10 ft. That's not a good idea? Still need fiber optic with power insert?

10 ft. is marginal. If it works fine, if not then you need a powered fiber optic cable with voltage inserter. The marginal length for HDMI video is in that 6' to 12' range. Less than 6' it is not necessary, 12' and over you definitely need an optic powered cable.

I think having the video and audio run separately may be a really big problem and is definitely not a good idea. That is because the continuous handshakes between the two cables is going to cause big problems. I think you will be better off not doing that.

 

[PWRmx24]

Thanks. I've watched two 4K UHD movies so far. The BR player says the source and output are 4K. The projector says input is 4K. The AVR said TrueHD and DTS HD MA for the different audio on the two movies. I don't have ATMOS.
So I think my handshakes are working.
What problems should I look for in having the audio and video separated?

 

[PWRmx24]

And if I keep the audio and video seperated, is there a problem with a really long HDMI audio copper cable?

 

[PWRmx24]

The manuals for my Sony UBP-X800M2 BR player and JVC DLA X750R say they support HDCP 2.2.

 

[PWRmx24]

The Ruipro cables show "A-8K" "B-8K" thru "E-8K" fiber......not sure the differences.

 

[TLS Guy]

And if I keep the audio and video seperated, is there a problem with a really long HDMI audio copper cable?

The issue is the stress on the receiver. As HDMI does not just have an initial handshake, but continuous handshakes, multiple every second. This is required under the piracy prevention laws. So by using 2 HDMI cables at once, you are doubling the handshakes which will really stress the HDMI board, and frankly, I am surprised it keeps up and stays in synch. It is something I would never have contemplated. I don't think it is best practice and far from it. I suppose your receiver does not have eARC which is the right solution for your issue.