HDMI Fiber Optic Cables

[PWRmx24]

I want to make sure I'm getting the 4K UHD signal to my projector (see signature).
I read that HDCP 2.2 requires not just any high speed cable when going beyond 10 feet otherwise the picture can be purposefully downgraded by the player if a proper handshake does not occur. I have these cables: "Amazon Basics HDMI Cable, 25ft, 4K@60Hz, High-Speed 4K HDMI 2.0 Cord (18Gbps), 2160p, 48 bit, Compatible with TV/PS5/Xbox/Roku, Black"
Am considering getting HDMI fiber optic just to make sure......I will have to use the Sony Blu-ray player's seperate HDMI outputs....one for video and the other for audio.
any thoughts on just getting the "Amazon Basics HDMI Fiber Optic Cable, 18Gbps High-Speed, 4K@60Hz, 2160p, 48-Bit Color, Ethernet Ready, 50 feet, Black"???

 

[TLS Guy]

I want to make sure I'm getting the 4K UHD signal to my projector (see signature).
I read that HDCP 2.2 requires not just any high speed cable when going beyond 10 feet otherwise the picture can be purposefully downgraded by the player if a proper handshake does not occur. I have these cables: "Amazon Basics HDMI Cable, 25ft, 4K@60Hz, High-Speed 4K HDMI 2.0 Cord (18Gbps), 2160p, 48 bit, Compatible with TV/PS5/Xbox/Roku, Black"
Am considering getting HDMI fiber optic just to make sure......I will have to use the Sony Blu-ray player's seperate HDMI outputs....one for video and the other for audio.
any thoughts on just getting the "Amazon Basics HDMI Fiber Optic Cable, 18Gbps High-Speed, 4K@60Hz, 2160p, 48-Bit Color, Ethernet Ready, 50 feet, Black"???

You do need a fiber optic cable for sure. There are now cables where the audio and video can be fiber, if hybrid then the video is fiber, and the audio copper. These cables are directional ane need power, You need to have HDMI HDCP version 2.3 to power the cables. If you use lower versions, then you will need a voltage inserter or you will blow your HDMI board.

Sending video and audio separately sounds like a mess and likely create all kinds of problems.
Get a good cable like Ruipro or equivalent or you will be in a pile of hurt. This is not something to go cheap on.

 

[PWRmx24]

Mmm.....I was thinking HDMI 2.0 spec required the player to provide 5V.

 

[TLS Guy]

Mmm.....I was thinking HDMI 2.0 spec required the player to provide 5V.

Yes, but it can't provide the current. It can only provide 30 ma, and these powered cables require much more.
Only HDCP 2.3 spec allows for 300 ma. So unless you have the latest receiver that has one of those HDMI power ports rated at 300 ma you need a voltage inserter or you will blow your HDMI board and be in a pile of hurt. It will clearly mark the port if it can provide the power, it is usually the eARC output port on newer units that have those ports and this change is very recent, so be careful.

We have had members here make that mistake and it is a really costly mistake and usually means new receiver time, as the usual situation is no parts available. So, be careful!

 

[PWRmx24]

I'll have to figure out how to see up a "voltage inserter". Learn something new every day.

 

[TLS Guy]

I'll have to figure out how to see up a "voltage inserter". Learn something new every day.

They come in two varieties. AC powered from a 'wall wart' AC transformer and USB powered. You can power from either end of the cable which ever is handiet, so at the receiver or TV end of the cable. But the arrows on the converters on the cable must point from receiver to TV.