Good amp for two 12 ht subs

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Deepair007

Audiophyte
Feb 24, 2021
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First, would these subs be great for small HT? They were originally for car use. If so, what would be a great amp for these subs? I can control crossover at the reciever (rx1070).

Pioneer tsw306c
Subwoofer Specifications
Subwoofer Size
12"
Peak Power Handling
1000 watts
RMS Power Handling
400 watts
Voice Coil(s)
Single
Impedance (Per Voice Coil)
4 ohms
Frequency Response
18 - 500 Hz
Sensitivity
89 dB
Xmax (millimeters)
8.7 mm
Woofer Surround
Urethane Foam

General Features:
  • Composite IMPP Woofer Cone with Interlaced Aramid Fiber
  • Cone Reinforcement Arcs
  • Wide Roll, Three-Layer Fiber Woven Radial Surround
  • 4-Layer Aluminum Voice Coil
  • Polyester-Imide Resin Coated Voice Coil Wire
  • 12 Slit Aluminum Voice Coil Bobbin
  • Conex Spider
  • Damper Ring
  • Top Plate Standard
  • Projected Pole Yoke with Vented Pole
  • 83 oz. Double Mass High-Power Magnet Construction
 
Perhaps try modelling them with winisd or bass box pro etc first.....
 
I would hit up Parts Express and get a reasonably good plate amplifier, then mount it in my rack.


You can also get dedicated subwoofer amps that are external, but they tend to be a bit pricey. But, they have them as well...
 
If/when you determine the subs have sufficient output for an in-home application, Crown, QSC and Behringer pro amps are also popular for diy subs.
 
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Thanks for the recommendations. At first I was looking at Berhinger nx3000d with 900watts or Crown XLS2502 with 750watts but maybe a plate amp would be good enough for cost.
What's confusing is the fact that amps have a frequency response so I'm assuming it needs to match or go beyond the capabilities of the driver. I assume wattage is the same way in that the amp should output at least the rms value of the drivers.
 
Thanks for the recommendations. At first I was looking at Berhinger nx3000d with 900watts or Crown XLS2502 with 750watts but maybe a plate amp would be good enough for cost.
What's confusing is the fact that amps have a frequency response so I'm assuming it needs to match or go beyond the capabilities of the driver. I assume wattage is the same way in that the amp should output at least the rms value of the drivers.

The thing with subs for cars is generally they only deal with car interiors, don't have to dig very deep nor deal with a large space. Some are suitable, probably most are not. Drivers may have a max input wattage, but not very meaningful on its own. Sensitivity gives you a better idea of the relationship between amp/speaker when it comes to dealing with power (let alone type of box/design being utilized).
 
Ok. I ran (4) pa subs with a x-max close to your car audio subs specs. Mine were 18" and 240oz magnets, but still "comparable". Look for a pro audio amp that has low pass and hi pass filters. I ran crown cdi 1000 amps. There's a comparable model for less cash. Mine, i could hook up a laptop and do anything i wanted to it. Super underrated units. Oh, by the way.... it was..... steller.
 
There are some here that are obsessed with measurements, lovin' numbers and all. Sometimes just experiencing not being able to take a breath in your own home theater room means enough.
 
Do you already have the subs? Are they already in a box or are you building one?
 

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