Fosi Audio V3 HiFi Stereo Power Amplifier with TPA3255 Chip opinions?

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D

DarceyC

Audiophyte
WoW. I’m absolutely blown away by the arrogance and ignorance on here. Pound4 Pound is a 100% correct. I’ve changed the op amps in the Fosi V3 and swapped them out for the Sparkos SS3602 and the change is profound. There’s no need for blind AB testing. The air of superiority I’ve been reading is just disgusting. Pound4pound nailed it when they said this is the group that can hear the differences in interconnects and not in sophisticated discreet op amps. Lmfao.
 
D

DarceyC

Audiophyte
Try it for yourself. Ears are like tastebuds. I can taste garlic in ppm and can smell it if someone next to me has eaten it in the last three days. I have exceptional hearing with perfect pitch. I’m not a superhuman, it’s just genes related to sound analysis. The ignorance delivered as smugness here is so off putting. Do yourself a favour and go down that op amp swap. Then you’ll know and you won’t take your queues from others that tell you that it’s an illusion.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Try it for yourself. Ears are like tastebuds. I can taste garlic in ppm and can smell it if someone next to me has eaten it in the last three days. I have exceptional hearing with perfect pitch. I’m not a superhuman, it’s just genes related to sound analysis. The ignorance delivered as smugness here is so off putting. Do yourself a favour and go down that op amp swap. Then you’ll know and you won’t take your queues from others that tell you that it’s an illusion.
Be better if you had some actual indications outside of what's in your head. How did you do your before/after comparisons?
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
I posted my brief review and a few REW graphs on ASR, using the $71 (on sale price Fosi direct), slightly more on Amazon:

The NAD C326BEE, an old integrated amp is still going for $500 if you can find one, probably used. The Fosi amp sounds the same to me, but that's sighted tests, I wonder if in controlled DBT, the much more expensive NAD amp will sound better??

Anyway, this little cheap made in China (the chips are mostly made in USA, obviously) sounds neutral, with the stock OPA, powerful enough for the so called difficult to drive LS50, at least for near field listening, and can run cool for hours. If anyone need a 50/80 W 8/4 ohms power amp, or used the build in passive "preamp", give it a try, and I think you will like it. If not, you can always return it. Such mini class D amps are real deals, they are not toys, but are truly affordable audiophile class amps.

Fosi Audio V3 Amplifier Review | Page 90 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum

With variable smoothing:

1695243687997.jpeg



No smoothing:

1695243936631.jpeg


Full range, at lower SPL to protect my little LS50:

Fosi Audio V3 Amplifier Review | Page 89 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum

Just got the V3, 32 V PS setup and ran a few sweeps, here are the results:
The FR graphs shown were based on variable smoothing.

1695158524204.jpeg
 
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
I posted my brief review and a few REW graphs on ASR, using the $71 (on sale price Fosi direct), slightly more on Amazon:

The NAD C326BEE, an old integrated amp is still going for $500 if you can find one, probably used. The Fosi amp sounds the same to me, but that's sighted tests, I wonder if in controlled DBT, the much more expensive NAD amp will sound better??

Anyway, this little cheap made in China (the chips are mostly made in USA, obviously) sounds neutral, with the stock OPA, powerful enough for the so called difficult to drive LS50, at least for near field listening, and can run cool for hours. If anyone need a 50/80 W 8/4 ohms power amp, or used the build in passive "preamp", give it a try, and I think you will like it. If not, you can always return it. Such mini class D amps are real deals, they are not toys, but are truly affordable audiophile class amps.

Fosi Audio V3 Amplifier Review | Page 90 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
I still use mine. My only real complaint is the numbers game with regard to stated power. Even near field, with speakers that avg from 84-87db sensitivity, the volume ends up being roughly 3/4+. Honestly, I want to listen to it all the way up, and at that level, it more compares with my 60WPC vintage Pioneer, albeit quieter (no hiss), but still giving the edge to the Pioneer. I have mine powered by a 10 amp/48V power supply.

Otherwise, SQ is fine. I don't imagine any need for upgrades with the stock components used. I much more enjoy my 120wpc/8Ohm AVR though. Since early on in my audio hobby, I realized 100wpc was my minimum and I have never had larger home than 1500 sq ft, or living rooms larger than say 2500 cu. ft.

Regardless of how modern audio thinking tends to discount WPC ratings as meaningless, it was always useful to me, provided the values were honest enough. A lot of other amp manufacturers are skating around the actual values too, and I find I am really having to read to the end and all the fine print of the brochures to get to the truth. More often than not, I end up disappointed to find instead what amounts to 50wpc/8Ohm amps posing like 100wpc amps. Soon as I see 4,3 or even 2Ohm ratings as the dominant values, I kick the product to the curb and flip them the double bird for hooking me into scam.

I end up using my other old Denon AVR for my tabletop sessions anymore. Why? It drives everything I hook up to it with authority, instead of that rather 'hanging by a thread' feeling I get listening to the smaller amps.

The Icepower amp on the left is more potent and seems like it is closer to 100w/8Ohm. Yes it's larger physically but has it's own power supply onboard.



I have a number of these small amps and boards/chips, so it's not as if I didn't approach it with an open mind, at least. I am also aware that I may be somewhat of an exception to the rules. Most people I know get by with less power for music and listen quieter than I typically do. I only grade these little amps a bit more harshly because I am used to more headroom than these provide.
 
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mlieber507

Audiophyte
All a different Op Amp needs is a little extra gain and it will sound like a great improvement.
 
-Jim-

-Jim-

Audioholic Field Marshall
I posted my brief review and a few REW graphs on ASR, using the $71 (on sale price Fosi direct), slightly more on Amazon:

The NAD C326BEE, an old integrated amp is still going for $500 if you can find one, probably used. The Fosi amp sounds the same to me, but that's sighted tests, I wonder if in controlled DBT, the much more expensive NAD amp will sound better??

Anyway, this little cheap made in China (the chips are mostly made in USA, obviously) sounds neutral, with the stock OPA, powerful enough for the so called difficult to drive LS50, at least for near field listening, and can run cool for hours. If anyone need a 50/80 W 8/4 ohms power amp, or used the build in passive "preamp", give it a try, and I think you will like it. If not, you can always return it. Such mini class D amps are real deals, they are not toys, but are truly affordable audiophile class amps.

Fosi Audio V3 Amplifier Review | Page 90 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum

With variable smoothing:

1695243687997.jpeg



No smoothing:

1695243936631.jpeg


Full range, at lower SPL to protect my little LS50:

Fosi Audio V3 Amplifier Review | Page 89 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum

Just got the V3, 32 V PS setup and ran a few sweeps, here are the results:
The FR graphs shown were based on variable smoothing.

1695158524204.jpeg
I made a comment on the Fosi "The Story Behind Fosi Audio V3 Amplifier" YouTube video about the pre-out and they replied:

"Thank you for your advice. Our team had revised the pre-out port and it will behave like a real pre-out. This revised version will be available in the fourth quarter of the year."

So if this is important to you, I'd hold off until then! Enjoy.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
I still use mine. My only real complaint is the numbers game with regard to stated power. Even near field, with speakers that avg from 84-87db sensitivity, the volume ends up being roughly 3/4+. Honestly, I want to listen to it all the way up, and at that level, it more compares with my 60WPC vintage Pioneer, albeit quieter (no hiss), but still giving the edge to the Pioneer. I have mine powered by a 10 amp/48V power supply.
Sorry to say this MrBoat, but it is a fact that it is a common mistake to based the power output of amplifiers by the volume setting. This is a good example, the Fosi amp is not an integrated amp, the volume button is only there to provide the convenience for people who are okay to use passive volume control. It is just a "taper pot", not the regular volume control commonly found in real integrated amps that have a real preamp stage.

If you have external active power control, such as that from a preamp, or the pre out of an AVR, you should set the Fosi amp to maximum all the time. Class D amps typically have a little lower gain, the Fosi amp apparently has about 26 dB gain, whereas your Pioneer amp likely have 29 dB or higher (you can check the manual, specs, service manual etc.) so you cannot compare their output by ears and volume setting.

With the 48 V PS, even the 5 A one, you Fosi's output at 1% THD about 160 W 4 ohm, or 140 W at 0.02% THD, as measured by ASR:
Fosi Audio V3 Amplifier Review | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum

It did 89 W into 8 ohm, at about -80 dB THD+N, that is 0.01% that is well below the threshold of audibility.

1695470165973.png


If your Pioneer really has an "edge" on power output, then I assume it's 60 W rating is very conservative, and at very low THD.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
I only grade these little amps a bit more harshly because I am used to more headroom than these provide.
Again, as stated in my earlier post, you perceived issue is not about headroom, but about gain. Reality though is, that probably the vast majority of users of such amps don't, and/or won't use it as a power amp, and it is not an integrated amp, most will think it doesn't have the power output they expected, and would have to crank the "volume" to maximum. Even at maximum, it will be perceived as weaker than it really is, because of it's lower gain that that of most AVRs and integrated amps.

You are obviously one of the exceptions. Like me, you can drive it with a preamp, avr, avp, that can output at least 2 V or higher, if you wish.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
I made a comment on the Fosi "The Story Behind Fosi Audio V3 Amplifier" YouTube video about the pre-out and they replied:

"Thank you for your advice. Our team had revised the pre-out port and it will behave like a real pre-out. This revised version will be available in the fourth quarter of the year."

So if this is important to you, I'd hold off until then! Enjoy.
Good to know, it could be a useful feature for a lot of users, though it don't have the need so wouldn't want to pay the extra for such an additional feature. Good for them though, because that would get rid of one misleading spec., that they are currently calling it pre out when it really isn't.
 
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
Again, as stated in my earlier post, you perceived issue is not about headroom, but about gain. Reality though is, that probably the vast majority of users of such amps don't, and/or won't use it as a power amp, and it is not an integrated amp, most will think it doesn't have the power output they expected, and would have to crank the "volume" to maximum. Even at maximum, it will be perceived as weaker than it really is, because of it's lower gain that that of most AVRs and integrated amps.

You are obviously one of the exceptions. Like me, you can drive it with a preamp, avr, avp, that can output at least 2 V or higher, if you wish.
Right, but those numbers you posted, all the technical caveats around them, are not how it comes across at face value. As someone who is used to home audio historically being rated at 8Ohms, the 4Ohm rating, just to make the power output seem like so much more, is misleading, at least to some. This is a new trend to me. I see a lot of amps using this now. 4ohm has always been the realm of car audio, 8ohm for equipment with mains power. Most of my speakers are 8ohm. The other misleading trend is to use combined channels, instead of per channel power rating. This makes for a lot of erroneous information to sift thru, comparatively.

I know it's easy for those who are all into the technicalities of these things to delve into all the particulars, but to me, it's misleading. When I see an amp rated at 300wpc/4ohm, my hopes are at least that it would be around half, into 8Ohms, which many amps are.

What you are proposing, is information suited more for professionals and science minded people. Meanwhile, someone like me sees this:


If you say it's fine to use it turned all the way up, that will certainly help. I have been cautious to use it beyond 3/4. I have used it with 3 different preamps. To have to root around to find an ideal preamp to get the most out of this, starts to remove the bargain from this equation.

I have two vintage Pioneer amps/receiver. The SA-8500 I own, albeit integrated, goes noticeably louder without being maxed out using the same speakers. I know it is basically a 60 watt amp. I'm ok with a 60w amp, but in the same family of amps, or even across brands of similar types, 100watts has always been better. With my use, these numbers always worked with little variance of the volume control across brands with the same claims of performance. I could expect to not have to use more than half of the volume control range, or even roughly 5/8 if I was feeling extra rambunctious. That one rough measure is still the same. It hasn't changed, even with aged hearing. In other words, I could historically go buy just about any name brand, 100wpc/8ohm amp, and expect similar performance across the known brands.

Double the headroom with both amp and speakers, was always the sure bet to safely avoid distortion to where I never had to think about it again no matter what I played.

Now it takes techies and outfits like ASR to get to the actual working nature of these things. How about they just use the actual values up front first and foremost, so I don't have to turn over a bunch of stones to get to the truth. If it's an 89W amp under the best possible circumstances, call it that. Otherwise the 300wpc claims are a stretch at best and now I have no confidence in these otherwise sketchy numbers.

Like I said, I am not disappointed with the SQ, I just don't want to fry the thing prematurely trying to make it perform at it's limits from here on out. The Pioneers, which went for 25-30 years before needing a rebuild, was likely because it was used lightly with regard to it's available headroom, relative to it's duty.

I have electronics background and a minor degree in it, but I am tired of all that now to where I have an actual attention deficit to it. I can also build and repair car engines from the ground up, and manual transmissions as well, but I just don't feel like keeping up with all of the technicalities and I don't enjoy wrenching on them anymore. Still, I know how much 300-500hp at the crank, with somewhat matching torque values will roughly give me at the wheels and expected performance.
 
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
Again, as stated in my earlier post, you perceived issue is not about headroom, but about gain. Reality though is, that probably the vast majority of users of such amps don't, and/or won't use it as a power amp, and it is not an integrated amp, most will think it doesn't have the power output they expected, and would have to crank the "volume" to maximum. Even at maximum, it will be perceived as weaker than it really is, because of it's lower gain that that of most AVRs and integrated amps.

You are obviously one of the exceptions. Like me, you can drive it with a preamp, avr, avp, that can output at least 2 V or higher, if you wish.
I haven't tried it with the AVR yet, but I will.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Right, but those numbers you posted, all the technical caveats around them, are not how it comes across at face value. As someone who is used to home audio historically being rated at 8Ohms, the 4Ohm rating, just to make the power output seem like so much more, is misleading, at least to some. This is a new trend to me. I see a lot of amps using this now. 4ohm has always been the realm of car audio, 8ohm for equipment with mains power. Most of my speakers are 8ohm. The other misleading trend is to use combined channels, instead of per channel power rating. This makes for a lot of erroneous information to sift thru, comparatively.

I know it's easy for those who are all into the technicalities of these things to delve into all the particulars, but to me, it's misleading.
You are right, such specs are very confusing to inexperienced EEs if they are new in this hobby, let alone the average hobbyists.

When I see an amp rated at 300wpc/4ohm, my hopes are at least that it would be around half, into 8Ohms, which many amps are.
That is more than reasonable, but unfortunately, for those new generations of mini class D amps, it seems more realistic (those again, I agreed, not reasonable) to hope for that being the best case scenario (not "at least"), and it would be for at least 1% THD. In this particular case, Amir's measurements show the Fosi V3 could in fact claim half of the 300 WPC 4 ohms, at 1% THD+N, with the 48 V PS.

So this mini amp is about as powerful as your SA-8500 for real world use.

What you are proposing, is information suited more for professionals and science minded people. Meanwhile, someone like me sees this:


If you say it's fine to use it turned all the way up, that will certainly help. I have been cautious to use it beyond 3/4. I have used it with 3 different preamps. To have to root around to find an ideal preamp to get the most out of this, starts to remove the bargain from this equation.
Yes you can absolutely turn the volume to maximum, for reasons I explained before.

As you know, your Pioneer integrated amp has the following feature:

That is, you can remove the jumpers and use it as a power amp. If you do that, the Pioneer will then behave just like you set the volume control dial to maximum and you will be controlling the output from the external device.

Just a reminder, on integrated amps, including this Pioneer, it is not advisable to max out the volume control, it will be harmful to both the amp and potentially the speakers especially certain tweeters because of the resulting distortions from clipping. I am talking about normal input level such as that from a CD player, tuner, Blue ray playe or turntable.

1695483738878.png


I have two vintage Pioneer amps/receiver. The SA-8500 I own, albeit integrated, goes noticeably louder without being maxed out using the same speakers. I know it is basically a 60 watt amp. I'm ok with a 60w amp, but in the same family of amps, or even across brands of similar types, 100watts has always been better. With my use, these numbers always worked with little variance of the volume control across brands with the same claims of performance. I could expect to not have to use more than half of the volume control range, or even roughly 5/8 if I was feeling extra rambunctious. That one rough measure is still the same. It hasn't changed, even with aged hearing. In other words, I could historically go buy just about any name brand, 100wpc/8ohm amp, and expect similar performance across the known brands.
Again, as explained before, don't pay too much attention to that, you cannot tell if one amp is more powerful than the other by the volume position you set it to, as it depends on at least two things:

1) The gain of the power amp.
2) The type of volume control used, for example, does the Pioneer use "linear" or "log".

So, you can have one amp that required you to turn the knob of amplifier A to 10 O'clock and amplifier B to 2 O'clock, and get the some SPL, but the amplifier B may actually be 2 times more powerful, just that you have to turn the knob up much higher.

Take a look, just an example, with regard to 2)
Potentiometer Taper | Resistor Types | Resistor Guide (eepower.com)

1695485371672.png


With regard to 1), I can use my Marantz vintage separate pair as example:

The amp has a "flat amp" feature, that results in a much lower gain, so when I use the feature, I have to have the volume pass the midpoint, otherwise, I could listen to the same level of loudness at about 1/4 or less on the volume. Yet the power amp is still the same 140 WPC into 8 Ohm rated.

Double the headroom with both amp and speakers, was always the sure bet to safely avoid distortion to where I never had to think about it again no matter what I played.
You are more sensible than me, I go with 10 times what I need if at all possible, but I won't go for less than 4 times.

Now it takes techies and outfits like ASR to get to the actual working nature of these things. How about they just use the actual values up front first and foremost, so I don't have to turn over a bunch of stones to get to the truth. If it's an 89W amp under the best possible circumstances, call it that. Otherwise the 300wpc claims are a stretch at best and now I have no confidence in these otherwise sketchy numbers.
I agree with you on this, the ASR gang discussed that, and some pointed out the fact that many manufacturers play that power/number game so in order to compete they all have to do it. Apparently even Texas Instrument had given them the green light to advertised as they (the manufacturers) see fit.

Like I said, I am not disappointed with the SQ, I just don't want to fry the thing prematurely trying to make it perform at it's limits from here on out. The Pioneers, which went for 25-30 years before needing a rebuild, was likely because it was used lightly with regard to it's available headroom, relative to it's duty.
You won't fry it with volume set to max., for reasons explained. That is, it is a really a power amplifier, fitted with a taper pot, that makes it controllable, but still a power amplifier. All power amps that don't have a passive volume control feature are effectively "maxed out" in volume.
 
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PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
I haven't tried it with the AVR yet, but I will.
If you do, be aware that AVRs such as Denon, Marantz, Yamaha typically have 29 dB gain, so to level match with the Fosi amp you would have to increase the level trim by at least 3 dB (my educated guess). Those who use those Hypex based amps know that very well, as the same applied to many class D amps, and even class AB amps including the $3,000 Benchmark AHB2 amps, not just Fosi amps.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Just did a quick check, the use of misleading power output specs is not limited to cheap amps and AVRs. The lower end integrated amps, such as Yamaha's A-S301 through A-S801 also play that:

Below is from page 22 of the Owner's manual:

What they called maximum effective output power, 1 kHz, 10% THD, 8 ohm.

With that, dealers can advertise 145 WPC if they choose to, instead of the more realistic 100 to 110 W at distortions levels that are generally considered low enough to put it in the below audibility range.

1695487054368.png
 
M

mlieber507

Audiophyte
All of those who are complaining about bloated power output claims should read the TI TPA3255 spec sheet, special the power out vs supply voltage curves. These are accurate and both Fosi and Aiyima live up to them. I have carefully tetsted a number of these units.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
All of those who are complaining about bloated power output claims should read the TI TPA3255 spec sheet, special the power out vs supply voltage curves. These are accurate and both Fosi and Aiyima live up to them. I have carefully tetsted a number of these units.
Be careful interpreting the power output numbers. I did read the TI document, it cannot do 300 WPC x2, unless wired in BTL configuration and used for 2ch stereo, and @ 10% THD.
 
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mlieber507

Audiophyte
Be careful interpreting the power output numbers. I did read the TI document, it cannot do 300 WPC x2, unless 2 chips are used for 2ch stereo, and specified for 10% THD.
From TI's curves, it looks like the power output spec at 4 ohms, 1% THD and in stereo mode is 225 RMS watts per channel. This requires an 11 amp, 48 v power supply. Try the Fosi V3 or Aiyima A07 with a very high dissipation dummy load and you will see that kind of output. You will also need an oscilloscope, an audio signal generator and true RMS voltmeter.
 
M

mlieber507

Audiophyte
What are you driving it with currently?
For real listening, rather than controlled testing, I am driving 2 Fosi V3's and 1 Aiyima A07, with a Denon AVR X3700H running in 5.1 channel preamplifier mode.
 

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