Experts Only - I need help

[jostenmeat]

Now that's a crazy amount of speakers.

I'm pretty certain they are subwoofers for the most part.

I hear what you are saying about the AT stuff. I have to make my screen smaller if I don't hide the speakers behind it. I have a contractor here now - I'll have him make a frame and buy that good stuff.

OK, I wasn't sure, but I guess you ARE saying that speakers will reduce your screen size.

NOW, CONSIDER, JUST TO BE SURE, that it's possible your screen can't reach its potential size, due to the bottom of the screen needing to be high enough: that your setup might force a smaller screen to begin with.

If this is the case, then you are not necessarily forced to go AT as far as maxing screen size. Make sense? Catch my drift?

Now, AT vs non-AT. Of course, audiophiles always prefer AT. It allows the ideal selection and placement of all speakers. Back in the day, there were serious issues with the audio passing unaltered, and even a lot of video compromises.

Today, we have microperfs, or weaves (like the Seymour), which have found the best compromise yet.

You will note that time to time certain videophiles do not think you can get the best video with AT. However, they often might be using a screen with an optical coating (like I do, but I still think AT is super cool), or that they have a really top of the line screen, maybe a Stewart or a JKP Affinity, etc. Now, to get one of those screens as 165", you could probably afford a brand new car . . .

Hope my mini take on that makes sense to you.

Any thoughts on this:

http://www.klipsch.com/na-en/products/rf-63-home-theater-system-overview/

To just be done with it?

Is that 200/800 peak on the center speaker enough to handle this room?

Any thoughts? Yes. That is a home theater package. We have been pretty consistently recommending "commerical" products. Now, I've read much less about QSC speakers than I have, say, JTR or JBL.

You see, when volumes get up there, especially in a large area with 50 people, speakers have a hard time producing without suffering compression, or in fact just a lot of distortion. High volumes for long periods will require the speakers to be very good with thermal issues. The very, very high sensitivity of such speakers (if perhaps similarly with Klipsch home speakers) should allow more headroom, as the amps aren't working as hard. The straight up power handling, combined with such sensitivity, will have people all over Brooklyn talking about your theater . . . if perhaps in Italian, Russian, or Polish.

It looks like I'll be staying in Brooklyn for a few days this summer. I might stop by for a viewing.

 

[majorloser]

Just keep in mind that Acoustic transparent screens are always a compromise between sound transmission through the screen and light reflection back to the audience.

The loss of sound through the screen is not a real problem since it's easy to turn the volume up. But the loss of lumens from the projector is a big deal. Don't believe the hype from the screen manufacturers. Look behind one when it's all lit up and see for yourself. In a movie theater screen it's bright enough behind them to easily see to work on equipment. This is one of the reasons all of the equipment behind the screen is black.

I think the best advice is what Jostenmeat is saying, go smaller and go with a conventional screen. You'll get a brighter picture and be able to take advantage of some really good materials with maybe a higher gains and better viewing angle. You should have plenty of room around the outside of the screen for speakers.

 

[MidnightSensi]

I'd go with JTR speakers and Crown iTech amplifiers (good power, good service...that's important for commercial use). For the receiver consider Integra 80.9 or Onkyo Professional as recommended earlier.

Sorta dark, but here are the JTR T8's you were asking about:

They are black boxes, so, pictures probably don't help much...but.... They sound great though and could fill your room no problem...That picture is in my home theater, but I use them double duty and they cover over 100 people with no problem (subs required, of course).

As far as sound quality, I have people who are into high end stereo asking me what they are all the time. Because at a fraction of what they paid my system blows theirs away.


....

I have to disagree with not going AT though. It may allow for better quality for cheaper, but in a commercial application you want to avoid people near your speakers. People are curious, especially drunk people. Put an AT screen in, and then you can place the mains and subs behind the screen however you want and not worry about people sitting on them, tripping over them, knocking them over, pulling cables out, or whatever else. Put the rears mounted up high, some Slanted 8s from JTR should be more than enough.

If you want to show off the speakers, you can always put some LEDs behind the screen for cheap and turn them on to show off your sound system.

 

[tiojason]

Dude

I'm pretty certain they are subwoofers for the most part.



OK, I wasn't sure, but I guess you ARE saying that speakers will reduce your screen size.

NOW, CONSIDER, JUST TO BE SURE, that it's possible your screen can't reach its potential size, due to the bottom of the screen needing to be high enough: that your setup might force a smaller screen to begin with.

If this is the case, then you are not necessarily forced to go AT as far as maxing screen size. Make sense? Catch my drift?

Now, AT vs non-AT. Of course, audiophiles always prefer AT. It allows the ideal selection and placement of all speakers. Back in the day, there were serious issues with the audio passing unaltered, and even a lot of video compromises.

Today, we have microperfs, or weaves (like the Seymour), which have found the best compromise yet.

You will note that time to time certain videophiles do not think you can get the best video with AT. However, they often might be using a screen with an optical coating (like I do, but I still think AT is super cool), or that they have a really top of the line screen, maybe a Stewart or a JKP Affinity, etc. Now, to get one of those screens as 165", you could probably afford a brand new car . . .

Hope my mini take on that makes sense to you.



Any thoughts? Yes. That is a home theater package. We have been pretty consistently recommending "commerical" products. Now, I've read much less about QSC speakers than I have, say, JTR or JBL.

You see, when volumes get up there, especially in a large area with 50 people, speakers have a hard time producing without suffering compression, or in fact just a lot of distortion. High volumes for long periods will require the speakers to be very good with thermal issues. The very, very high sensitivity of such speakers (if perhaps similarly with Klipsch home speakers) should allow more headroom, as the amps aren't working as hard. The straight up power handling, combined with such sensitivity, will have people all over Brooklyn talking about your theater . . . if perhaps in Italian, Russian, or Polish.

It looks like I'll be staying in Brooklyn for a few days this summer. I might stop by for a viewing.

Dude - totally appreciate the advice. I think we have enough headroom to use the full width for the screen and accommodate the bottom of the screen height required to keep viewing comfortable. I am going to try to max it because that back row is a mile from the screen and I'd hate to make it smaller.

As for the speakers - I hear what you're saying - stick with commercial grade equipment. I'm just balking at the price.... Yet another consultant comes in tomorrow - I gotta sh*t or get of the pot pretty soon.

Cheers - and look me up when you're around. reBar and reRun, 147 Front Street, Dumbo, Brooklyn, NY 11201

 

[jostenmeat]

The Dude appreciates the invite, man.

Ok, so that I, and others, don't have to jump back and forth between pages, AND click/close attachments, to see these diagrams that you've supplied for us:

Ok, I ran a few quick calculations. Yes, ok now I agree, you want to go big as that space allows. Very front row (let's say 14 ft to eyes) is 46 degree viewing angle with a 165", and the middle of the seating (approximately 26 ft away), has a 26 degree viewing angle. 38 ft away is 18 degrees.

HOWEVER, if you go AT, this means that the screen is now closer to the seats. Say now that the screen is 3 ft closer . . .

Middle is now 28 degrees, front row is 57 degrees, and rear row say about 19 degrees. Very front row will have it VERY big, but I think most everyone else will be more or less fine, in my experiences.

Like I've said before, I still vote for getting PJ first, firing at wall, having a friend or two help out and give their opinions, sit in front of each other, etc.

I also think once you spend a bit more for the commercial speakers, you will think you have done the right thing.

Remember, THE most important purchases are the Projector and Speakers. One produces directly what we see, and the other produces directly what we hear. For speakers, spend where electrical energy is converted into mechanical energy, for that is definitely the hardest part!

Ok, so screen is 81" tall, let's say, and that's not including border/frame. Heck let's say 7 ft for ease. That means the MOST height you can get from the bottom of screen to floor is 5 ft. Let's say . . 4 ft for front row's top of head, but let's say 4.5 just in case an NBA player decides to stop in. Then let's pretend head is 12.5 ft from screen. Let's say very rear row height is 5'+3' for 8'. 38 ft away are the eyes. Ok, the riser height calculator tells me that it has to be at least 58" high, so I think you're almost good there! I just hope all of the in-between rows will be fine . . . Just so you know, 54" tall for someone seated is very tall! Ok, say at more conventional 48" height of front row means 40" tall riser for very back. But, it just takes one tall person to mess it up for many others . . .

Good luck.

edit: ok, I decided to post another member system image using Seymour CenterStage XD acoustically transparent weaved fabric. This one belongs to mperfct:

 

[majorloser]

I have to disagree with not going AT though. It may allow for better quality for cheaper, but in a commercial application you want to avoid people near your speakers. People are curious, especially drunk people. Put an AT screen in, and then you can place the mains and subs behind the screen however you want and not worry about people sitting on them, tripping over them, knocking them over, pulling cables out, or whatever else. Put the rears mounted up high, some Slanted 8s from JTR should be more than enough.

If you want to show off the speakers, you can always put some LEDs behind the screen for cheap and turn them on to show off your sound system.

I still say to wall mount the speaker and go with a regular screen.
A decent transparent screen will cost as much as the speakers.

If you're going to have the screen 3 feet away from the back wall to accomodate speakers, you're half way to accomodating rear projection.

It's only money....

 

[majorloser]

Here's what a rear projection mirror system looks like:

http://www.da-lite.com/dalitehometheater/products/view_product.php?product_id=20

http://www.mountsandmore.com/Mirror-System-l95-c161-A4649~12473.html

Everything in the front of the theater goes behind a false front wall. Ambient lighting also become less of a problem.

 

[tiojason]

Thank you!

The Dude appreciates the invite, man.

Ok, so that I, and others, don't have to jump back and forth between pages, AND click/close attachments, to see these diagrams that you've supplied for us:

Ok, I ran a few quick calculations. Yes, ok now I agree, you want to go big as that space allows. Very front row (let's say 14 ft to eyes) is 46 degree viewing angle with a 165", and the middle of the seating (approximately 26 ft away), has a 26 degree viewing angle. 38 ft away is 18 degrees.

HOWEVER, if you go AT, this means that the screen is now closer to the seats. Say now that the screen is 3 ft closer . . .

Middle is now 28 degrees, front row is 57 degrees, and rear row say about 19 degrees. Very front row will have it VERY big, but I think most everyone else will be more or less fine, in my experiences.

Like I've said before, I still vote for getting PJ first, firing at wall, having a friend or two help out and give their opinions, sit in front of each other, etc.

I also think once you spend a bit more for the commercial speakers, you will think you have done the right thing.

Remember, THE most important purchases are the Projector and Speakers. One produces directly what we see, and the other produces directly what we hear. For speakers, spend where electrical energy is converted into mechanical energy, for that is definitely the hardest part!

Ok, so screen is 81" tall, let's say, and that's not including border/frame. Heck let's say 7 ft for ease. That means the MOST height you can get from the bottom of screen to floor is 5 ft. Let's say . . 4 ft for front row's top of head, but let's say 4.5 just in case an NBA player decides to stop in. Then let's pretend head is 12.5 ft from screen. Let's say very rear row height is 5'+3' for 8'. 38 ft away are the eyes. Ok, the riser height calculator tells me that it has to be at least 58" high, so I think you're almost good there! I just hope all of the in-between rows will be fine . . . Just so you know, 54" tall for someone seated is very tall! Ok, say at more conventional 48" height of front row means 40" tall riser for very back. But, it just takes one tall person to mess it up for many others . . .

Good luck.

edit: ok, I decided to post another member system image using Seymour CenterStage XD acoustically transparent weaved fabric. This one belongs to mperfct:

Guys, this is really all above and beyond. Theater is coming together nicely. I have almost decided to go with the jbls for left right and double center

http://www.performanceaudio.com/cgi/product_view.cgi?products_id=18840

withe these surrounds (4)

http://www.performanceaudio.com/cgi/product_view.cgi?products_id=18728

and subs

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/649353-REG/JBL_ASB6115_B_ASB6115_15_Front_Firing_Subwoofer.html

I am really tortured by the projector choice now. I can get the room VERY dark, but i wonder if I still need north of 2000 lumens. 50,000:1 contrast is a must, I assume (?), and I am looking at 1080p, 16:9.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/benq/w6000/

?

http://www.projectorcentral.com/jvc_dla_rs10_rs20_review.htm

?

The canon sx60? I've exploded my budget - I found some money in a sock drawer. Projector recommendations up to 5k being accepted.....

This room better get me laid....

 

[BMXTRIX]

I am really tortured by the projector choice now. I can get the room VERY dark, but i wonder if I still need north of 2000 lumens. 50,000:1 contrast is a must, I assume (?), and I am looking at 1080p, 16:9.

Lumens is a factor of screen size above all else. In a perfectly dark theater environment, with a side-by-side comparison you will notice the difference between 5,000:1 and 50,000:1 contrast ratios, but this is only under very critical viewing and it requires a fully treated dark theater, not just dark lights, but black ceilings, dark furniture, walls, etc. The light of a single candle within a viewing space can reduce 10,000:1 contrast to under 100:1 contrast. So, the contrast is not nearly as important as you may be lead to believe.

What is important is delivering the correct brightness on every square foot of the screen while having good (if not phenomenal) contrast. I would shoot for a 17 lumens per square foot AFTER calibration minimum.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/benq/w6000/

This model is very much one which I would consider if I were you.

Realistically, you want to be at about 1,350 lumens AFTER calibration if at all possible, which is double (at least) of what most 1080p projectors are capable of delivering. If a projector is rated at 2,000 lumens, it is extremely unlikely that it will ever produce results which you will find satisfying.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/jvc_dla_rs10_rs20_review.htm

Absolutely not. Phenomenal home theater projectors! Limit your size to about 120" maximum under true home theater conditions.

The canon sx60? I've exploded my budget - I found some money in a sock drawer. Projector recommendations up to 5k being accepted.....

The SX60 is native 1400x1050, not 1080p.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Canon-REALiS_SX60.htm

This is a list of projectors which will deliver more than 2,000 lumens (manufacturer rated) and is under $5,000...
http://www.projectorcentral.com/projectors.cfm?g=1&hide=0&st=1&mfg=&p=500&p=5500&w=&r=13&br=2100&br=6000&ll=&t=&db=&dt=&c=&ar=&dvi=&td=&i=d&is=&sort=pop&sz=15

Of those currently available, the W6000 you linked is the one I would strongly consider.

But, the BenQ SP890 (which I linked to earlier) is the one I would give the most consideration to as it ups the brightness considerably, while maintaining a high contrast specification which is very nice for the brightness...

http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ-SP890.htm

Excess lumens for versatility, under $4,000, and solid contrast. That is a REAL winner for your situation.

This room better get me laid....

Get a girl enough drinks and see what happens...

 

[jostenmeat]

I still say to wall mount the speaker and go with a regular screen.
A decent transparent screen will cost as much as the speakers.

If you're going to have the screen 3 feet away from the back wall to accomodate speakers, you're half way to accomodating rear projection.

It's only money....

basspig's 154" Seymour cost less than $1k I'm pretty sure. Sure, it's a scope screen, but STILL. It is a DO IT YOURSELF fabric. He will save THOUSANDS.

Dude, the RP setups you've linked seem to look way too tiny for this application.

When I think THIS big with RP, I think of Stewart Starglas 60/100. At $300 a sq ft, we are talking $25,000 for the glass in this install, and that's before taxes.

Guys, this is really all above and beyond. Theater is coming together nicely. I have almost decided to go with the jbls for left right and double center

I think some of us still like the JTR stuff for just a bit more. How about the Triple 8s that Midnight uses both professionally and in home? Here's a linky. Perhaps you might land a discount with a bulk order, I don't know. Then again, maybe those are good JBLs, I don't know . . .
http://jtrspeakers.com/install/triple-8/

Regarding the Seymour stuff, I would email/call them for tips or warnings. Stuff like, how big can it be, how big can it be without seams, are the seams easily visible, is there a max angle of incidence of projector light that should be avoided, etc.

Linky to the CenterStage XD:
http://www.seymourav.com/screensDIY.asp


So, you say 12k budget?
$4000 for the PJ that BMX recommends.
$3600 for the front three speakers worst case scenario.

Subwoofer(s), build a Bill Fitzmaurice designed Tuba HT subwoofer, for say $300-500. Someone decent with wood can do it in a day. It is very large, I think like 3'x3'x2', but you get insane efficiency of output, with high SQ, on a very small budget! $15 for the plans. Here is one build:
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60906

Let's see, so . . . maybe . . . $800-1500 for receiver/processor, let's say $1300 . . . .

Pro amps to run speakers and sub . . . . (are you looking at 7.1, I don't remember), well, Midnight can give you a better idea here. Let's pretend $1500 for all channels and sub.

PJ mount ($250), HDMI cabling ($50-200), hmmmm

running total = about $11k.

Add screen cost, other speakers. . . hmm yeah budget limit about to get hit. But, for something like this, do it right! You will have an incredible theater.



Another thing to consider for screen, is Dalite High Power. I know for a fact that 159" manual is WELL under $1k as shipped. You might then be advised to rip the fabric out, and DIY frame it, but it won't be easy, and the fact that the material is as stiff as it gets doesn't help. However, this stuff has its own set of idiosyncracies/compromises . . . This stuff can come at least 159" without any seams at all, but I don't know about past that . . .
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=773065

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

speaking of DIY Subs, Matt34 is sadly parting ways with his Goat Fainter - maybe in your huge space this monster will trully shine and it's real bargain too

 

[jostenmeat]

speaking of DIY Subs, Matt34 is sadly parting ways with his Goat Fainter - maybe in your huge space this monster will trully shine and it's real bargain too

The sale has to be local, or picked up. The gas costs of driving from NYC to AZ and back will be more than just hiring someone to build it.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

He could arrange for local freight/shipping company (like Eagle Carriers) to pick it up and ship to NY.
Cost will vary, but my guesstimate will be in couple hundred ball park.
Final cost will probably still be lower than commercially avail. product with similar capabilities.


p.s: If sale goes thru - I want commission fees j/k

 

[jostenmeat]

He could arrange for local freight/shipping company (like Eagle Carriers) to pick it up and ship to NY.
Cost will vary, but my guesstimate will be in couple hundred ball park.
Final cost will probably still be lower than commercially avail. product with similar capabilities.


p.s: If sale goes thru - I want commission fees j/k

Feel free to talk Matt34 into it. Right now, a potential buyer is trying to talk him into moving it just to Tucson, which I assume is rather local.

 

[tiojason]

dalite screen

basspig's 154" Seymour cost less than $1k I'm pretty sure. Sure, it's a scope screen, but STILL. It is a DO IT YOURSELF fabric. He will save THOUSANDS.

Dude, the RP setups you've linked seem to look way too tiny for this application.

When I think THIS big with RP, I think of Stewart Starglas 60/100. At $300 a sq ft, we are talking $25,000 for the glass in this install, and that's before taxes.



I think some of us still like the JTR stuff for just a bit more. How about the Triple 8s that Midnight uses both professionally and in home? Here's a linky. Perhaps you might land a discount with a bulk order, I don't know. Then again, maybe those are good JBLs, I don't know . . .
http://jtrspeakers.com/install/triple-8/

Regarding the Seymour stuff, I would email/call them for tips or warnings. Stuff like, how big can it be, how big can it be without seams, are the seams easily visible, is there a max angle of incidence of projector light that should be avoided, etc.

Linky to the CenterStage XD:
http://www.seymourav.com/screensDIY.asp


So, you say 12k budget?
$4000 for the PJ that BMX recommends.
$3600 for the front three speakers worst case scenario.

Subwoofer(s), build a Bill Fitzmaurice designed Tuba HT subwoofer, for say $300-500. Someone decent with wood can do it in a day. It is very large, I think like 3'x3'x2', but you get insane efficiency of output, with high SQ, on a very small budget! $15 for the plans. Here is one build:
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60906

Let's see, so . . . maybe . . . $800-1500 for receiver/processor, let's say $1300 . . . .

Pro amps to run speakers and sub . . . . (are you looking at 7.1, I don't remember), well, Midnight can give you a better idea here. Let's pretend $1500 for all channels and sub.

PJ mount ($250), HDMI cabling ($50-200), hmmmm

running total = about $11k.

Add screen cost, other speakers. . . hmm yeah budget limit about to get hit. But, for something like this, do it right! You will have an incredible theater.



Another thing to consider for screen, is Dalite High Power. I know for a fact that 159" manual is WELL under $1k as shipped. You might then be advised to rip the fabric out, and DIY frame it, but it won't be easy, and the fact that the material is as stiff as it gets doesn't help. However, this stuff has its own set of idiosyncracies/compromises . . . This stuff can come at least 159" without any seams at all, but I don't know about past that . . .
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=773065

I am going with a dalite screen - but why high power? The viewing angle is too restrictive. Pricing for powered screens:

87" x 139" 164" Matte White 34468 85 125 1095.00
HC Matte White 34469 85 125 1095.00
Video Spectra 1.5 34470 85 125 1095.00
High Power® 34471 85 125 1262.00

the hc matte white is $1095, retractable, and has a 50 degree viewing angle - seems just right.

Thanks to all of you for the advice - rear projection is not going to work for me.

And as for the projector - the BenQ looks great. A buddy of mine doesn't like the fact that they are all OEM - but should that matter?

Cheers,

Jason

 

[MidnightSensi]

Let someone with much more projector know-how than me chime in, but: the high power makes the contrast pop, and rejects ambient light...which is important in a bar with exit signs, people with cell phones, and probably some lighting for people to move about. It will allow a projector with less brightness work on a bigger screen also.

edit: I should clarify that gain multiplies, so your blacks will be a bit lighter, but your whites and grays will rise exponetially (by the gain power factor)....which makes the contrast appear to be greater.

In a pitch black home theater, its questionable... but almost all clubs and commercial places I do gigs at use high power / high gain screens.

...

The JTR T8s are 98db/watt efficient, so at 12ft. with 250watts your at 110dB (that's with ONE speaker, not THREE). The JBLs will take roughly double the power to make the same volume, with much less power handling.

JBL makes a good product though, and its hard for me to really push you one way or another without knowing how big you want the system to sound.

40-ft is big room, and remember when it has people in it they will soak up sound...they act like acoustic panels. So the output you need with you and a friend will be less than when there is a room of people. Whatever you get, you'll want the mains mounted high enough to go over the crowd.

Output is important, but you also want the room to sound good for the people in the back and the people in the front. If the speakers are too low, then the people in the front will have it be too loud and the people in the back will have a hard time understanding the dialog.

 

[jostenmeat]

I am going with a dalite screen - but why high power? The viewing angle is too restrictive.

Well, it is its primary weakness. However, you would be surprised how many people you can fit in a 20 degree cone, depending on how flexible you are with where to put the projector. Yeah, probably pretty tough. I don't think you might be able to do it. Since the room is 40ft, I'm sure the PJ has to be a lot closer than that to get it as "small" as 160ish, and then it would be on a long pipe (home depot threaded plumbing pipe is fine), but not too low to block people behind it. Yeah, I'm not 100% sure, but I think it won't work here. Otherwise, again, you'd be surprised how many can fit into 20 deg.

Just for education's sake, its benefits include the following: most resistant to waving, even if waved it is the most difficult to see, greatest rejection of offaxis ambient light, the greatest gain available, and doing so with virtually ZERO hotspotting (unlike with angular reflective).

87" x 139" 164" Matte White 34468 85 125 1095.00
HC Matte White 34469 85 125 1095.00
Video Spectra 1.5 34470 85 125 1095.00
High Power® 34471 85 125 1262.00

the hc matte white is $1095, retractable, and has a 50 degree viewing angle - seems just right.

Are those all for manual pull down? I think these prices are rather too high if that's the case. If fixed frame, then I think* they are very fair prices.

You do NOT want a retractable unless it is tab tensioned ($$$$$$). For you WILL develop waves in the material which will definitely be discernible. You NEED a fixed frame. If it MUST be a retractable (without $$$$ tab tensioning), the Dalite High Power is basically your only choice.

And as for the projector - the BenQ looks great. A buddy of mine doesn't like the fact that they are all OEM - but should that matter?

non OEM? You mean you want NON-original equipment manufacturer? As in white van speakers? Or maybe do it yourself projector and amplifiers? huh. wut.

Ok, in case the screen pricing you've listed is all for retractable, here is perhaps the highest value in large fixed frame screens, internet direct only. These are the largest sizes available between the two trims (screen materials used with either are identical; few choices).

http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=PROJECTION-SCREEN-H142C

http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=PROJECTION-SCREEN-H142P

Do NOT buy the retractable Dalite, unless its tab tensioned (which it isn't because the price would be waaaaaay higher), or HP. I doubt they can help you, but it's worth calling Carada to see if they can special build a bigger screen for you . . .

Here is 165" vs 142" vs 139"
http://tvcalculator.com/index.html?41c946ea547f9146f6ab1dec84631dca

EDIT: found a great deal on 138" fixed frame... only $650!!!

http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_Widescreen_Fixed_Frame_Screen_138_p/ff169lt-133gy.htm

you give up some niceties to Carada, but once its up, BMX says you probably can't tell the difference!

AW CRAP! It's a grey screen. Damn.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

My 2c

Imho by OP's friend is vs OEM stuff (vs Retail) since OEM comes in simple brown box, could be missing some extras and rumored to inferior QC unlike retail box product comes in nice colored box with all extras.

In general, term OEM is often misused - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer

 

[tiojason]

screen

Well, it is its primary weakness. However, you would be surprised how many people you can fit in a 20 degree cone, depending on how flexible you are with where to put the projector. Yeah, probably pretty tough. I don't think you might be able to do it. Since the room is 40ft, I'm sure the PJ has to be a lot closer than that to get it as "small" as 160ish, and then it would be on a long pipe (home depot threaded plumbing pipe is fine), but not too low to block people behind it. Yeah, I'm not 100% sure, but I think it won't work here. Otherwise, again, you'd be surprised how many can fit into 20 deg.

Just for education's sake, its benefits include the following: most resistant to waving, even if waved it is the most difficult to see, greatest rejection of offaxis ambient light, the greatest gain available, and doing so with virtually ZERO hotspotting (unlike with angular reflective).


Are those all for manual pull down? I think these prices are rather too high if that's the case. If fixed frame, then I think* they are very fair prices.

You do NOT want a retractable unless it is tab tensioned ($$$$$$). For you WILL develop waves in the material which will definitely be discernible. You NEED a fixed frame. If it MUST be a retractable (without $$$$ tab tensioning), the Dalite High Power is basically your only choice.





non OEM? You mean you want NON-original equipment manufacturer? As in white van speakers? Or maybe do it yourself projector and amplifiers? huh. wut.

Ok, in case the screen pricing you've listed is all for retractable, here is perhaps the highest value in large fixed frame screens, internet direct only. These are the largest sizes available between the two trims (screen materials used with either are identical; few choices).

http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=PROJECTION-SCREEN-H142C

http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=PROJECTION-SCREEN-H142P

Do NOT buy the retractable Dalite, unless its tab tensioned (which it isn't because the price would be waaaaaay higher), or HP. I doubt they can help you, but it's worth calling Carada to see if they can special build a bigger screen for you . . .

Here is 165" vs 142" vs 139"
http://tvcalculator.com/index.html?41c946ea547f9146f6ab1dec84631dca

EDIT: found a great deal on 138" fixed frame... only $650!!!

http://www.htdepot.com/Focupix_Widescreen_Fixed_Frame_Screen_138_p/ff169lt-133gy.htm

you give up some niceties to Carada, but once its up, BMX says you probably can't tell the difference!

AW CRAP! It's a grey screen. Damn.

The dalight I referenced was for a powered retractable. I don't know if it is tab tensioned. Mounting a fixed screens poses some problems - I'd need a hard cover of some sort to protect it when not in use because we will do other general parties in there when not screening. I don't want someone leaning on it or spilling something on it or tagging it.

Again - I think the high power will cause viewing angle problems for the front row because of how high I am mounting it. I'm really torn on this decision....

 

[tiojason]

talked to dalite

got the screen I need - dalite was very helpful. dalite Tensioned cosmopolitan electrol HDTV format #79027c 78" x 139" Da-Mat, **2 inch blackdrop** This means the bottom of the screen is going to be only 2 feet from the floor (I'm limited by a sprinkler for mounting height of 110 inches at the top of the projector case. 7 inches for the projector case and minimum 2 inch blackdrop gets me to 101 inches. the screen is 78 so that leaves me 23 inches from the floor. I did the math - if the seating is staggered left right I should be ok.

Now - any universal all region blu-ray players?