Dropping ~$7K on a pre-pro, what should I get?

Sawtaytoes

Sawtaytoes

Junior Audioholic
Hi! I have a Yamaha A6A and currently run it as 7.2.4.

I'd really like to go to 9.4.6, but I'm not sure which processor to get. There are a lot of 15-channel receivers coming up, and I listed out my requirements, but I'm not sure which model best fits my needs or if I'm completely missing a brand. I don't have a dealer and have always gone direct or Best Buy or Amazon.

Requirements
  • Well-known brand (I need someone with support. I can get on the phone with Yamaha for instance).
  • 5+ HDMI 2.1 inputs (I won't back down on 2.1 unless it's a reasonably-priced Trinnov).
  • 2+ HDMI 2.1 outputs (both outputs go to my TV; one for my PC mode at 4:4:4 and the other for everything else).
  • Upgrade path for new tech in the future (For instance, Monolith HTP-1 still doesn't have HDMI 2.1, so I didn't list it).
  • Firmware upgrades for bugs (I don't wanna get a processor knowing it has long-standing bugs).
  • 15+ channels: 9.4.6 layout with 4 independent sub-outs.
  • XLR pre-outs (I get a hum using RCA cables, and had to buy super expensive RCA cables to remove the hum. I'd rather go XLR since my amps have it).
  • Dirac Live + Sub or better (like a Trinnov)
  • Web Control (Way easier than using a remote).
  • DTS:X Pro and IMAX Enhanced.
Processors
I've only ever bought Yamaha receivers and own 3 of them from super-budget to high-end in 2006 to their "top-of-the-line" today. I've heard of NAD, McIntosh, and others, but I'm not sure about them out of the amplifier world. Feel free to throw out recommendations that fit my needs.

Any ideas which processors fit my needs?
Any I missed?
 
Last edited:
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Hi! I have a Yamaha A6A and currently run it as 7.2.4.

I'd really like to go to 9.4.6, but I'm not sure which processor to get. There are a lot of 15-channel receivers coming up, and I listed out my requirements, but I'm not sure which model best fits my needs or if I'm completely missing a brand. I don't have a dealer and have always gone direct or Best Buy or Amazon.

Requirements
  • Well-known brand (I need someone with support. I can get on the phone with Yamaha for instance).
  • 5+ HDMI 2.1 inputs (I won't back down on 2.1 unless it's a reasonably-priced Trinnov).
  • 2+ HDMI 2.1 outputs (both outputs go to my TV; one for my PC mode at 4:4:4 and the other for everything else).
  • Upgrade path for new tech in the future (For instance, Monolith HTP-1 still doesn't have HDMI 2.1, so I didn't list it).
  • Firmware upgrades for bugs (I don't wanna get a processor knowing it has long-standing bugs).
  • 15+ channels: 9.4.6 layout with 4 independent sub-outs.
  • XLR pre-outs (I get a hum using RCA cables, and had to buy super expensive RCA cables to remove the hum. I'd rather go XLR since my amps have it).
  • Dirac Live + Sub or better (like a Trinnov)
  • Web Control (Way easier than using a remote).
  • DTS:X Pro and IMAX Enhanced.
Processors
I've only ever bought Yamaha receivers and own 3 of them from super-budget to high-end in 2006 to their "top-of-the-line" today. I've heard of NAD, McIntosh, and others, but I'm not sure about them out of the amplifier world. Feel free to throw out recommendations that fit my needs.

Any ideas which processors fit my needs?
Any I missed?
It seems the AV10 is the only one that meets all, or at least 90% of your requirements. The AVM90 does not have, and never will have Dirac Live, also no DTS:XPro, at least not yet, still not yet..., so if ever. They are all going to have some bugs but historically D+M seemed to have fixed their known bugs quite quickly so within the next couple of FW updates, they would likely have fixed the ones that really matters.

Interestingly, the Denon A1H has only 4 XLR pre out for the subouts that you can re-assign to say, LCR channels. It does have 2 XLR inputs though that very few Preamp processors have, even the $7,500 AVM90 does not have that. It seems that the Denon is a good option if you plan on using some of the internal amps to power some channels such as the surround/height channels and it most likely has more than adequate voltage/current to drive those unless they are all 4 ohm speakers and placed far away such as more than 3 meters.

The AVM90 is probably almost bug free by now, having been out for two years or more (something like that...) but it took them a long time. As far as being able to call for support, I read about that people manage to talk on the phone with Denon/Marantz too but I am not sure if that's easy to do. With Anthem, there is no number to call, and I doubt you can do it unless you now have a direct contact there.
 
Sawtaytoes

Sawtaytoes

Junior Audioholic
After looking at them more closely including NAD and McIntosh, I agree. Looks like Marantz and Anthem are the closest match for me.

I have 15 channels @ 200W of amplification with XLR inputs on my 2 Monolith amps, so I'm thinking the Denon doesn't fit my needs. I'm fine with the Marantz from that perspective.

If Anthem's audio calibration is as good as Dirac, then that's fine too. I've just heard that Dirac is the best.

I also like that Anthem's receiver has a larger screen. One thing I like about my Yamaha RX-A6A is seeing which channels are active for any given media and how loud the volume is on each channel including the subs.

The Marantz has either a small screen or a pull-down with the actual screen. But my toddlers will break that pull-down within a week. And keeping it down makes the unit look really ugly.

I'm wondering if you know about subs. Does Anthem or Marantz allow placing the 4 subs as independent crossovers for certain speakers + shared LFE? For instance, my Yamaha has it set to left and right crossovers and then LFE on both.

I'm really thinking, from what you said and DTS:X Pro, the Marantz is gonna be it then. It's crazy that in this price range, that's the only one that fits my needs.

Before I buy, I'm curious if dealers have it cheaper or if it's fine to go with B&H or similar.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
After looking at them more closely including NAD and McIntosh, I agree. Looks like Marantz and Anthem are the closest match for me.

I have 15 channels @ 200W of amplification with XLR inputs on my 2 Monolith amps, so I'm thinking the Denon doesn't fit my needs. I'm fine with the Marantz from that perspective.

If Anthem's audio calibration is as good as Dirac, then that's fine too. I've just heard that Dirac is the best.

I also like that Anthem's receiver has a larger screen. One thing I like about my Yamaha RX-A6A is seeing which channels are active for any given media and how loud the volume is on each channel including the subs.

The Marantz has either a small screen or a pull-down with the actual screen. But my toddlers will break that pull-down within a week. And keeping it down makes the unit look really ugly.

I'm wondering if you know about subs. Does Anthem or Marantz allow placing the 4 subs as independent crossovers for certain speakers + shared LFE? For instance, my Yamaha has it set to left and right crossovers and then LFE on both.

I'm really thinking, from what you said and DTS:X Pro, the Marantz is gonna be it then. It's crazy that in this price range, that's the only one that fits my needs.

Before I buy, I'm curious if dealers have it cheaper or if it's fine to go with B&H or similar.
How big is your room? Unless it is enormous, 7.2.4 is usually optimal.

The other issue is that dropping that kind of money on a pre/pro is questionable because of the rate of obsolescence. I sticking with 7.2.4, which works very well indeed. So I find no pressing reasons to change my Marantz 7705.

As far as a dealer, you want to make sure you use one with good after sales service. These things are complex and can give trouble. That is why if I have a unit like that, that has a history of being a good steady performer, I'm loath to change it for something else.

There is another aspect to this, now the mixes are more complex, all speakers need to be good and potent speakers. Adding poorer speakers to add channels is a downgrade in my view. I stand by the view that two really good speakers will best more poorer ones any day.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
After looking at them more closely including NAD and McIntosh, I agree. Looks like Marantz and Anthem are the closest match for me.

I have 15 channels @ 200W of amplification with XLR inputs on my 2 Monolith amps, so I'm thinking the Denon doesn't fit my needs. I'm fine with the Marantz from that perspective.

If Anthem's audio calibration is as good as Dirac, then that's fine too. I've just heard that Dirac is the best.

I also like that Anthem's receiver has a larger screen. One thing I like about my Yamaha RX-A6A is seeing which channels are active for any given media and how loud the volume is on each channel including the subs.

The Marantz has either a small screen or a pull-down with the actual screen. But my toddlers will break that pull-down within a week. And keeping it down makes the unit look really ugly.

I'm wondering if you know about subs. Does Anthem or Marantz allow placing the 4 subs as independent crossovers for certain speakers + shared LFE? For instance, my Yamaha has it set to left and right crossovers and then LFE on both.

I'm really thinking, from what you said and DTS:X Pro, the Marantz is gonna be it then. It's crazy that in this price range, that's the only one that fits my needs.

Before I buy, I'm curious if dealers have it cheaper or if it's fine to go with B&H or similar.
I considered the avm90 but went with the 70 because 2 subouts are enough for me, couldn't justify $4,000 (cad) more for somthing I don't need.

The AVM90 and AV10, A1H's 4 subputs are independent. The AV10 subouts have the "directional" feature, that may be, to some extent, similar to what you can do with your Yamaha but may not be exactly the same. You should read the manual for details.

In my experience, Dirac Live are much better than Anthem ARC, based on measurements I took. Even Audyssey is better, if you are willing to tweak with the app.

Edit: Anthem ARC is very good too, my only cautionary note is, in the deep bass range. I had to do some manual tweaks to make sound right. Without the tweaks, I found it missing that 15 to 45 Hz layer. For those who don't care much about the deep bass, or their room/speaker/placement results in good room gain in that range, it may not be an issue at all.

The AVM's big screen is only big in showing the volume setting, everthing else still small.
 
Last edited:
Cos

Cos

Audioholic Samurai
Peng has tested room correction more in detail than most, so that is good feedback. I have not used Dirac Live. As far as Anthem Support, I have been an Anthem user for a while and have numbers that still work if I need to get a hold of people. I have worked with Chris there a few times when I have had issues. Everyone has had different experiences, but I have found when I have had questions, they have been responsive for me. (even by email).

Getting someone on the phone is one thing, getting someone that actually knows what they are doing is another. I have never had much success with Marantz, unless its a few calls and repeated attempts. That being said, the Marantz may still be the safer bet.

Probably not a deal breaker, the Anthem has a bigger screen, which is mainly used for volume or selecting inputs, but it has no OSD on your TV. Settings are web based. While not a deal breaker for me, for someone who has used Yamaha for a long time, you may find that annoying.

What speakers will this system be driving?
 
Last edited:
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Peng has tested room correction more in detail than most, so that is good feedback.
Thank you, good thing you mention this, I edited my post for better clarity.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I'm wondering if you know about subs. Does Anthem or Marantz allow placing the 4 subs as independent crossovers for certain speakers + shared LFE? For instance, my Yamaha has it set to left and right crossovers and then LFE on both.

Can you explain what your Yamaha does now? I've seen their left/right options in the manuals before, but never an explanation of what that does particularly, just what changes in their processing other than perhaps phase when you tell the avr you have your subs near your left/right speakers? You can set separate crossover in your Yamaha for left and right front channels?
 
Sawtaytoes

Sawtaytoes

Junior Audioholic
Lots of great questions!

My speakers are 7.2.4 right now as that's the max my Yamaha can do.

As far as I understand it, they have sub configurations for Mono, Left+Right, and Front+Back. My subs are both behind the couch right now, but on very far opposite sides, so I set the Left+Right setting. As far as I understand it, LFE goes to both. This feature only affects the crossover.

Room
The room I'm using is honestly pretty small, and it's open on one side to the kitchen. I sit close to the TV, about 8'-10' away (sitting up vs reclining) from an 83" LG OLED.

Use Case
I used to only play games and watch anime (it's only stereo), but since my kids are getting older, I recently bought a bunch of discs and readers, ripped them to my NAS lossless, and setup Plex on an NVIDIA SHIELD TV Pro.

Now that I have all these Blu-ray and UHD Blu-ray movies, I want my theater system to be next-level with the $2K+ I spent on discs.

Speakers
My speakers are the Polk R700s in front, L400 Center, and R200s for surrounds.

I have 4 R900 height channels sitting on top of my front and rear surrounds right now, but that's only because I have yet to find a good solution to mount them. I'd honestly prefer to mount R200s up there, but I have no off-the-shelf solution to mount a 20lb bookshelf-sized speaker.

My two subs are SVS PC-2000 Pro sitting behind the couch inline with the surround back speakers.

Yamaha Receiver issues
I have an issue with unpause lag from my NVIDIA SHIELD with the Yamaha RX-A6A that doesn't happen on Dolby Digital or PCM, but it happens on everything else. Super annoying. It happens on my 2006 Yamaha receiver as well, so I figure it's a SHIELD issue. Upgrading the receiver can help narrow down this issue.

I also wanna try a different brand. I'm thinking Yamaha isn't top-end anymore, so I'd like to try something else even if I have to pay more than I spent on my TV (

I'm also needing XLR pre-outputs for my recent purchase of a Monolith M8250X. Didn't realize it has no RCA jacks like my class AB 7-channel amp from them.

9.4.6
I have room for two more subs up-front behind the TV next to my fronts.

9 channel ear-level
I have one extra Polk R700 that I couldn't return to an Amazon seller even though it came damaged. Long story. It has a gash on the top and a bent tweeter, but Polk shipped me a new one. So at this point, I'm thinking of buying another one for my front wides.

They'd honestly be in a weird spot though.

My room isn't super wide, and there's only about a foot from my front left to the wall, but I think I can make it work with a 6-7' difference between the couch and the TV :eek:.

The biggest issue is my kids running into the right front wide speaker since that side's open to the kitchen. That's why I like the R700; harder to knock over than speaker stands. I have 2 on carpet at my computer desk, and my kids haven't knocked them over yet!

There's a gap in the audio between my fronts and side surrounds, so I'm excited to get front wides to fill the gap. While not all movies are using object-based sound, games are 100% object-based.

6 channel height
I want to mount Polk R200s for my height channels, but I can feasibly only do 4 of them. I don't really have a way to mount the remaining 2 firing down, so I'm thinking it might be better to go ceiling-mounted either for those 2 speakers or all 6.
 
Cos

Cos

Audioholic Samurai
Thank you for providing detail on your setup and wish list. I want to make a point, that there are far more knowledgeable people on this site, than myself, but I need to ask a few questions

How big is your room, as TLS pointed out earlier, more speakers isn't necessary the better option.
  • If I were building out a system, the biggest part of the investment for me would be the speakers themselves
  • Spending 7K to 8K, separate amps on your current speakers, I am not sure if you would even notice a difference between that at your current Yamaha, unless volume is an issue.
  • Yamaha is still a top brand equally comparable to Marantz, Denon or Anthem. They just haven't updated their pre/pro in a while.
  • Do you plan to setup and use DTS:X Pro? or even IMAX or are you trying to future proof?
Please don't take offence, we all love new gear, but I am not sure you are necessarily going to get the sonic improvement you are looking for spending 7-8K on a new Pre/Pro. You have nice equipment, but I think you may be spending in the wrong places. That is just my opinion, not having the room size into consideration, I could be completely incorrect.
 
Sawtaytoes

Sawtaytoes

Junior Audioholic
Room Size
The room is 11' wide x 11'8" length. Although, the 11' wide is to the end of the right-side-surround speaker stand.

20230425_220355-min.jpg20230425_184836-min.jpg

The open side is a kind of null area where there's a desk people used to write down notes on phone calls (this is a 90s house), the eat-in kitchen, and the island in the kitchen. It's all far enough away to make this feel like a separate room.

I know I need a rug to help with reflections. I'd been meaning to in the past and just remembered yesterday.

Speakers
In terms of Speakers, are there better models than these Polk Reserves in this price range? From what Audioholics showed data-wise, this is about the best I can get.

Prior to buying the Reserves, I was back to 2-channel and bought 2 Revel towers (I think the F206 Performa3 model). Those Revels sounded awful! I couldn't discern anything, and they sounded really boomy. This compared to Polk's Signature line costing less than half per tower.

From a listening test at Nebraska Furniture Mart in 2021, the only speakers that came close to Polk's Reserve were the Paradigm Premier 800F. They sounded really good, but I liked the Reserve better. It could've also been the content they were demoing. I demoed multiple times before buying since a $1.1K speaker is super expensive for me.

Why spend so much on a pre-pro?
It's not like I can get a 9.4.6 processor any cheaper than $7K, so that's the price I'll pay for the next step in home theater. I don't wanna side-grade to another 7.2.4 system. That's also why it took me 15 years to upgrade my receiver to this newer RX-A6A model; I figured the prices would go down in the last decade, but they didn't.

I want 9-channel ear-level because I can hear a gap between my fronts and side surrounds. With a room this small, it's gonna be audible. It's especially noticeable in games. Having front wides can help mitigate that issue.

Technology changes
DTS:X Pro is just DTS:X with more than 12 channels. IMAX Enhanced is just 16:9 movies with DTS audio and a THX-like certification (from what I understand). Neither of those matters, but DTS:X Pro will come in handy if I go 9.4.6.

I don't agree that pre-pro technology has changed. My 2006 Yamaha still supports all the latest codecs. Sure, the HDMI is old, but if it's hooked up to a 1080p projector (like it is), I'm not losing any features.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Curious in your room what are the expectations for change in number of channels processed? You've maxed out on current speaker positioning/room treatment for the current speaker setup or ?
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Too bad Yamaha doesn’t have a new AVP w/ 15.4CH + Dirac Live like virtually EVERYONE ELSE. :D
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Hi! I have a Yamaha A6A and currently run it as 7.2.4.

I'd really like to go to 9.4.6.

Room Size
The room is 11' wide x 11'8" length. Although, the 11' wide is to the end of the right-side-surround speaker stand.

Why spend so much on a pre-pro?
It's not like I can get a 9.4.6 processor any cheaper than $7K, so that's the price I'll pay for
Sure you can fit 15 speakers in an 11’ x 11’-8” room? :D
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
I'm wondering if you know about subs. Does Anthem or Marantz allow placing the 4 subs as independent crossovers for certain speakers + shared LFE? For instance, my Yamaha has it set to left and right crossovers and then LFE on both.
You've got me curious enough to read the manual, turns out there is nothing special there.
It says:
1682511100988.png


That's quite typical as other brands. It simply suggests if you have two subs, either place them left and right, or front and back. It probably would affect the algorithm used in their YPAO somewhat in terms of setting the speakers to "large" vs "small/crossovers", but again I don't think it means a whole lot.

The Marantz, or Denon have something similar but at least a little more sophisticated feature in that you can have the "directional setting" that seems to do more than Yamaha's. You can find out more about it by watching the Masimo video.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Lots of great questions!

My speakers are 7.2.4 right now as that's the max my Yamaha can do.

As far as I understand it, they have sub configurations for Mono, Left+Right, and Front+Back. My subs are both behind the couch right now, but on very far opposite sides, so I set the Left+Right setting. As far as I understand it, LFE goes to both. This feature only affects the crossover.
That is correct, but imo it is not necessary as most experienced users would just ignore the "large" vs "small" settings. Just set all speakers to small regardless of their size is the golden rule, then set crossovers to 80 Hz for the bass capable speakers and higher (or leave it to YPAO) and for the small bookshelves, satellites etc.

The room I'm using is honestly pretty small, and it's open on one side to the kitchen. I sit close to the TV, about 8'-10' away (sitting up vs reclining) from an 83" LG OLED.
That means you don't need a lot of power, but the R700's sensitivity is just average and has impedance dip to 3.6 ohm, averaged to probably around 5 to 6 ohms so if you want to listen to near reference level, then you do need a 250/400 W 8/4 ohm amplifier for them.

Now that I have all these Blu-ray and UHD Blu-ray movies, I want my theater system to be next-level with the $2K+ I spent on discs.
What is your definition for "the next level"? Your system can already deliver cinema loud sound pressure level from your main seats (8-10 ft you said)

My two subs are SVS PC-2000 Pro sitting behind the couch inline with the surround back speakers.
That's enough subs for a small room, but I am not sure if their placements are optimum, you should send those photos to SVS and ask for their suggestions on better placement options.

I have an issue with unpause lag from my NVIDIA SHIELD with the Yamaha RX-A6A that doesn't happen on Dolby Digital or PCM, but it happens on everything else. Super annoying. It happens on my 2006 Yamaha receiver as well, so I figure it's a SHIELD issue. Upgrading the receiver can help narrow down this issue.
If that is something that really bothers you, I wouldn't assume anything, better ask questions of the AVS forum Denon and/or Marantz user threads, or the ones on Audiosciencereview.com.

I'm also needing XLR pre-outputs for my recent purchase of a Monolith M8250X. Didn't realize it has no RCA jacks like my class AB 7-channel amp from them.
You don't really need XLR pre outs for those amps, there are very good RCA to XLR interconnect cables that can do the job. Your potential issue with the RX-A6A is that it seems to have limited pre out voltage, so it may struggle a little driving those Monolith amps. The Marantz AV10 or even any of the Marantz or Denon AVRs won't have any issues.

I have room for two more subs up-front behind the TV next to my fronts.
Then you should try relocating the two behind the couch to the front behind the TV. 4 of those SVS subs seem too much for your small room. Not much wrong other than it would be a waste of money and taking up the space that can be better utilized.

9 channel ear-level
I have one extra Polk R700 that I couldn't return to an Amazon seller even though it came damaged. Long story. It has a gash on the top and a bent tweeter, but Polk shipped me a new one. So at this point, I'm thinking of buying another one for my front wides.

They'd honestly be in a weird spot though.

My room isn't super wide, and there's only about a foot from my front left to the wall, but I think I can make it work with a 6-7' difference between the couch and the TV :eek:.

The biggest issue is my kids running into the right front wide speaker since that side's open to the kitchen. That's why I like the R700; harder to knock over than speaker stands. I have 2 on carpet at my computer desk, and my kids haven't knocked them over yet!

There's a gap in the audio between my fronts and side surrounds, so I'm excited to get front wides to fill the gap. While not all movies are using object-based sound, games are 100% object-based.
May be you should try getting rid of the wide channels and see if you miss them.
 
Last edited:
Sawtaytoes

Sawtaytoes

Junior Audioholic
I don't have front wides yet. I'm going to buy another R700 along with this new Marantz AV10 to be able to use them without

I'm very sure they'll make a big impact when sounds move from front to back. If you don't have experience with games supporting spatial audio, you might not know, but it's actually a noticeable gap.

I hear it in demo videos too; although, I'm not sure how many use front wides as they're only gonna activate for Atmos with dynamic sounds.

---

I apparently lied about my distance from the TV. It's more like 5-6'. My towers are 7' away and surrounds are 3' away. Being this close, sounds are more direct and noticeable, so more speakers is actually gonna help a ton.

I do play at reference levels sometimes, but most of those movies are much older. Newer movies are at -10dB.

---

On the subs, I have them set up with 80Hz crossover except my front two are at 60Hz because I can hear where 80Hz tones are coming from. I meant I have one sub cover the left crossover and another cover the right crossover, then both handle LFE.

They're in the back of the room because my TV was further set back when I bought it. Today, I think I can fit 2 subs behind it because I've pulled the screen forward since I first mounted it. The subs fire down, so it shouldn't be an issue to have them behind the TV.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I don't have front wides yet. I'm going to buy another R700 along with this new Marantz AV10 to be able to use them without

I'm very sure they'll make a big impact when sounds move from front to back. If you don't have experience with games supporting spatial audio, you might not know, but it's actually a noticeable gap.

I hear it in demo videos too; although, I'm not sure how many use front wides as they're only gonna activate for Atmos with dynamic sounds.

---

I apparently lied about my distance from the TV. It's more like 5-6'. My towers are 7' away and surrounds are 3' away. Being this close, sounds are more direct and noticeable, so more speakers is actually gonna help a ton.

I do play at reference levels sometimes, but most of those movies are much older. Newer movies are at -10dB.

---

On the subs, I have them set up with 80Hz crossover except my front two are at 60Hz because I can hear where 80Hz tones are coming from. I meant I have one sub cover the left crossover and another cover the right crossover, then both handle LFE.

They're in the back of the room because my TV was further set back when I bought it. Today, I think I can fit 2 subs behind it because I've pulled the screen forward since I first mounted it. The subs fire down, so it shouldn't be an issue to have them behind the TV.
Direction subs "fire" isn't particularly important. They're more omni-radiators.
 
Sawtaytoes

Sawtaytoes

Junior Audioholic
So glad this review dropped:

It's exactly what I wanted out of a pre-pro! Super glad I bought this unit :p.

And the bass I'm asking about is referred to as "Directional Bass". It also works the way I'd expect with 4 independent zones (Front Left, Front Right , Rear Left, Rear Right) that all share LFE.

Grabbing 2 more subs can help fill lows missing from my front speakers at the front of my room because of the crossover. At that point, 80Hz makes more sense than my current 60Hz for a crossover setting.
 

Latest posts

newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top