Dodge Journey Wiper Problem

[Squishman]

I have a 2018 6 cylinder Dodge Journey that I use for my medical delivery route. Only about 76k on it. A couple weeks ago in the morning, my wipers were dead. Thought fuse. Nope. There are two relays for the wipers. I brought them in the house to test them with my motorcycle battery, which happens to be in the house on a tender for the winter. They were fine. I didn't know what the heck it was then. I put the relays back in and tried the wipers and they worked! Thought perhaps a relay just had a contact issue. Anyway, yesterday morning, same deal. I opened the fuse box to jiggle the relays. Still jack squat. Went to the store... came out and they worked! Do you guys think it's the switch? I cannot get it diagnosed unless it was dead permanently of course. I just watched a yt video and that switch replacement is literally a 4 minute job. Unreal. $79 on Rock Auto. What do you think? Couple of brands on Amazon for under $50. But shipping is not Prime. And if that is my issue, it'd be nice to get it faster. I could go find the plug for the motor and unplug/replug that. But I doubt that that is it. Or it could be the motor. If it is that, I am not willing to wait for it to go out completely.

 

[Squishman]

A friend suggested I take out the switch and spray electrical contacts cleaner in it and re-install it. I'll see if there is access to spray into it like that. The switch does turn signals, front and rear wipers plus wash on both. So it has like a million things it does. I'll go pull it out right now.

 

[TLS Guy]

A friend suggested I take out the switch and spray electrical contacts cleaner in it and re-install it. I'll see if there is access to spray into it like that. The switch does turn signals, front and rear wipers plus wash on both. So it has like a million things it does. I'll go pull it out right now.

That probably won't work. I would bet that vehicle likely has a body computer. The problem in which case is likely in a bad body computer. When you took out the relays did you disconnect the battery, in which case you rebooted the body computer. If the wipers work when you disconnect and reconnect the battery, then you likely will need a new body computer. All those switches on that control almost certainly go through the body computer on a vehicle as new as yours.

The fault codes for the body codes are not generally on the OBD2 codes, that can be accessed from an OBD2 scanner. The body codes are generally in codes such as the e-codes that only the dealer has access to.

A law was passed years ago that anyone had to have access to OBD codes. The dumb politicians only put OBD codes in the legislation so the manufacturers came out with another set of codes, the e-codes for instance, that only authorized dealers have access to. There are bootlegged e-scanners and such around that some freelance mechanics have. I believe these are not strictly legal, but who the H-cares?

 

[TankTop5]

That probably won't work. I would bet that vehicle likely has a body computer. The problem in which case is likely in a bad body computer. When you took out the relays did you disconnect the battery, in which case you rebooted the body computer. If the wipers work when you disconnect and reconnect the battery, then you likely will need a new body computer. All those switches on that control almost certainly go through the body computer on a vehicle as new as yours.

The fault codes for the body codes are not generally on the OBD2 codes, that can be accessed from an OBD2 scanner. The body codes are generally in codes such as the e-codes that only the dealer has access to.

A law was passed years ago that anyone had to have access to OBD codes. The dumb politicians only put OBD codes in the legislation so the manufacturers came out with another set of codes, the e-codes for instance, that only authorized dealers have access to. There are bootlegged e-scanners and such around that some freelance mechanics have. I believe these are not strictly legal, but who the H-cares?

Eek, you’re probably correct and BCM isn’t cheap. It is getting colder and where I am we see a lot of rabbits eating wires while trying to stay warm. We saved a couple rainforests S/ by switching from PVC to soy based insulators. Check to see if there’s physical damage to any wiring harnesses. If there is most dealerships are going to quote you many thousands of dollars to replace an entire wiring harness. There is absolutely no reason to do this as they can do what’s called it an overlay for a couple hundred dollars. BCM’s are generally not repairable or serviceable aside from software updates so I’d eliminate everything you can first

 

[Squishman]

Last night, I pulled out the switch and there was no place to spray into that made sense. So I took a cover off and there were flat contacts that I lightly touched up with a pencil eraser and sprayed that. I was doubting that was the issue though. I put it back together and the wipers still worked, so I ran an errand in the heavy sleet coming down.
Interesting that this switch with all these functions has a real small plug with I think only 4 conductors.
I bought this car 13 months ago. The original owner had an aftermarket remote starter installed. I learned a few weeks ago from Scotty Kilmer's youtube channel that that is a heinous idea to put one in. Factory is fine, but on a newer vehicle, aftermarket remote starters could cause a myriad of issues. Anyway, that remote starter worked last winter. This winter now, it does not. I'd remove it, but I don't even know where it is or brand because it uses the regular key (not key, proximity) fob to start by pressing the lock button 3x.
So long story short, I wonder if that stupid starter has indeed messed up the body computer. I have never heard of a body computer. I had an '06 Grand Caravan years ago that needed a new PCM (I think it was called) and only a Dodge dealer could do it. I believe the bill was $1400.
I have no engine light on. I do have a super cheap Amazon code checker. Too bad this might be what you are calling an e-code.
My battery is in a super lame spot. Just ridiculous. Inside LF wheel well. You have to take the wheel off, and remove a panel to service the battery. I hate that. But there are terminals of course that are accessible under the hood for jumping or whatever else. So I'll make sure I bring the proper tools with me for work in case I need to disconnect and reconnect that if it happens again.

 

[TLS Guy]

Last night, I pulled out the switch and there was no place to spray into that made sense. So I took a cover off and there were flat contacts that I lightly touched up with a pencil eraser and sprayed that. I was doubting that was the issue though. I put it back together and the wipers still worked, so I ran an errand in the heavy sleet coming down.
Interesting that this switch with all these functions has a real small plug with I think only 4 conductors.
I bought this car 13 months ago. The original owner had an aftermarket remote starter installed. I learned a few weeks ago from Scotty Kilmer's youtube channel that that is a heinous idea to put one in. Factory is fine, but on a newer vehicle, aftermarket remote starters could cause a myriad of issues. Anyway, that remote starter worked last winter. This winter now, it does not. I'd remove it, but I don't even know where it is or brand because it uses the regular key (not key, proximity) fob to start by pressing the lock button 3x.
So long story short, I wonder if that stupid starter has indeed messed up the body computer. I have never heard of a body computer. I had an '06 Grand Caravan years ago that needed a new PCM (I think it was called) and only a Dodge dealer could do it. I believe the bill was $1400.
I have no engine light on. I do have a super cheap Amazon code checker. Too bad this might be what you are calling an e-code.
My battery is in a super lame spot. Just ridiculous. Inside LF wheel well. You have to take the wheel off, and remove a panel to service the battery. I hate that. But there are terminals of course that are accessible under the hood for jumping or whatever else. So I'll make sure I bring the proper tools with me for work in case I need to disconnect and reconnect that if it happens again.

From your description of that switch, I can be certain your vehicle has a body computer. That will not give OBD codes, so I doubt an engine scanner will help you. Fitting any aftermarket device to any vehicle, such as that remote starter is an absolute no, no. With body computer issues you do not get any idiot lights coming on as far as I know. So you are dependent on the dealer.

It is sounding like a vehicle to dispose of pronto and sell on.

 

[Squishman]

When I have a huge problem, like a tranny needs rebuild for example, and the bill would be xxxxx, my thought is "would I buy this vehicle for that much?" So if a new body computer is what it is, would that not be an ok thing to consider?

 

[highfigh]

Last night, I pulled out the switch and there was no place to spray into that made sense. So I took a cover off and there were flat contacts that I lightly touched up with a pencil eraser and sprayed that. I was doubting that was the issue though. I put it back together and the wipers still worked, so I ran an errand in the heavy sleet coming down.
Interesting that this switch with all these functions has a real small plug with I think only 4 conductors.
I bought this car 13 months ago. The original owner had an aftermarket remote starter installed. I learned a few weeks ago from Scotty Kilmer's youtube channel that that is a heinous idea to put one in. Factory is fine, but on a newer vehicle, aftermarket remote starters could cause a myriad of issues. Anyway, that remote starter worked last winter. This winter now, it does not. I'd remove it, but I don't even know where it is or brand because it uses the regular key (not key, proximity) fob to start by pressing the lock button 3x.
So long story short, I wonder if that stupid starter has indeed messed up the body computer. I have never heard of a body computer. I had an '06 Grand Caravan years ago that needed a new PCM (I think it was called) and only a Dodge dealer could do it. I believe the bill was $1400.
I have no engine light on. I do have a super cheap Amazon code checker. Too bad this might be what you are calling an e-code.
My battery is in a super lame spot. Just ridiculous. Inside LF wheel well. You have to take the wheel off, and remove a panel to service the battery. I hate that. But there are terminals of course that are accessible under the hood for jumping or whatever else. So I'll make sure I bring the proper tools with me for work in case I need to disconnect and reconnect that if it happens again.

I have seen the battery location on several Dodge vehicles and it's a stupid place to put it- a minor crash dumps Sulfuric acid and it affects the vehicle as well as whatever it drips onto.

I would ask a dealer if there was an OEM remote start option and find one- if they did it the way GM did in the late-'90s, and it made a lot of sense to do it that way, it was just a plug-in module at the interior fuse block. I would recommend baring the wiring under the dash and looking at the remote start's installation- if they used ScotchLocks, yank it and repair any damaged wires.

However, there's nothing associated with a remote start that should affect the wipers unless it was wired wrong. Does yours also lock & unlock the doors? What brand and model is the remote Start?

It should have connections (accessible under the dash) for:

Constant voltage
Ignition
Brake pedal switch
Starter crank wire
Tach
Usually, a wire to the directional lights
Wire to Door pin switch or courtesy light
Door locks
Auxilliary function(s) like trunk/hatch release or other secondary use

 

[highfigh]

Last night, I pulled out the switch and there was no place to spray into that made sense. So I took a cover off and there were flat contacts that I lightly touched up with a pencil eraser and sprayed that. I was doubting that was the issue though. I put it back together and the wipers still worked, so I ran an errand in the heavy sleet coming down.
Interesting that this switch with all these functions has a real small plug with I think only 4 conductors.
I bought this car 13 months ago. The original owner had an aftermarket remote starter installed. I learned a few weeks ago from Scotty Kilmer's youtube channel that that is a heinous idea to put one in. Factory is fine, but on a newer vehicle, aftermarket remote starters could cause a myriad of issues. Anyway, that remote starter worked last winter. This winter now, it does not. I'd remove it, but I don't even know where it is or brand because it uses the regular key (not key, proximity) fob to start by pressing the lock button 3x.
So long story short, I wonder if that stupid starter has indeed messed up the body computer. I have never heard of a body computer. I had an '06 Grand Caravan years ago that needed a new PCM (I think it was called) and only a Dodge dealer could do it. I believe the bill was $1400.
I have no engine light on. I do have a super cheap Amazon code checker. Too bad this might be what you are calling an e-code.
My battery is in a super lame spot. Just ridiculous. Inside LF wheel well. You have to take the wheel off, and remove a panel to service the battery. I hate that. But there are terminals of course that are accessible under the hood for jumping or whatever else. So I'll make sure I bring the proper tools with me for work in case I need to disconnect and reconnect that if it happens again.

A body computer controls things like those in the link-

2018 Journey-Possible TIPM or Body Control Module

New member here, hoping for help. 2018 Journey , 130k miles. I have a possible TIPM or ground issue, but before I start throwing money and parts at it I'm hoping to get some help. I attached a picture of the codes I pulled tonight. Multiple body codes, all of which are related to an open circuit ...

www.dodgejourneyforum.com

 

[Squishman]

I have seen the battery location on several Dodge vehicles and it's a stupid place to put it- a minor crash dumps Sulfuric acid and it affects the vehicle as well as whatever it drips onto.

I would ask a dealer if there was an OEM remote start option and find one- if they did it the way GM did in the late-'90s, and it made a lot of sense to do it that way, it was just a plug-in module at the interior fuse block. I would recommend baring the wiring under the dash and looking at the remote start's installation- if they used ScotchLocks, yank it and repair any damaged wires.

However, there's nothing associated with a remote start that should affect the wipers unless it was wired wrong. Does yours also lock & unlock the doors? What brand and model is the remote Start?

It should have connections (accessible under the dash) for:

Constant voltage
Ignition
Brake pedal switch
Starter crank wire
Tach
Usually, a wire to the directional lights
Wire to Door pin switch or courtesy light
Door locks
Auxilliary function(s) like trunk/hatch release or other secondary use

It uses the Dodge fob. It has no start button. You push lock 3 times and it starts. Or it did last winter. No clue what model or make that remote starter is. I have never seen it. I'll take a look and see if its at the interior fuse block.

 

[Squishman]

A body computer controls things like those in the link-

2018 Journey-Possible TIPM or Body Control Module

New member here, hoping for help. 2018 Journey , 130k miles. I have a possible TIPM or ground issue, but before I start throwing money and parts at it I'm hoping to get some help. I attached a picture of the codes I pulled tonight. Multiple body codes, all of which are related to an open circuit ...

www.dodgejourneyforum.com

I just joined that forum. Thx!