UH Matt

UH Matt

Junior Audioholic
Sorry i used the words car audio, that opened up a can of worms i didnt mean to open.

I really want to build a sealed box, so im looking into subs that will perform well in one that is about 4 cu ft max. the Malestrom was suggested to me and now im confused. Any help for a sub that fits those requirements is appreciated thanks.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Sorry i used the words car audio, that opened up a can of worms i didnt mean to open.

I really want to build a sealed box, so im looking into subs that will perform well in one that is about 4 cu ft max. the Malestrom was suggested to me and now im confused. Any help for a sub that fits those requirements is appreciated thanks.
That is the recommended box by the manufacturer who happens to be an active member of the shack. There are also build designs on the AVS site. Just look around.

Anything you build with any driver mentioned will outperform a commercial option probably twice the price. Heck the JL audio is used in a 2000 dollar sub sealed. I would still get the maelstrom for sealed. Though if you can handle a complex port the 12" Axis is monster sub from my recent modeling.
 
UH Matt

UH Matt

Junior Audioholic
What size box did you model the axis with? Slot or tube ports?
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Sorry i used the words car audio, that opened up a can of worms i didnt mean to open.

I really want to build a sealed box, so im looking into subs that will perform well in one that is about 4 cu ft max. the Malestrom was suggested to me and now im confused. Any help for a sub that fits those requirements is appreciated thanks.
Why are you intent on a sealed box? I hope you realize, when you use a Behringer DCX2496 or comparable DSP controller (as is the plan here for any serious DIY sub set up), this device can make a high quality ported cabinet sound EXACTLY like a sealed subwoofer, except the ported unit will have far higher output and lower distortion in the lowest octave.

-Chris
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
What size box did you model the axis with? Slot or tube ports?
I'm still unable to get the port air velocity low enough. At maximum power.

I'll let you know when I come up with something. The port will require some folding probably for the sub to behave properly.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Sorry i used the words car audio, that opened up a can of worms i didnt mean to open.

I really want to build a sealed box, so im looking into subs that will perform well in one that is about 4 cu ft max. the Malestrom was suggested to me and now im confused. Any help for a sub that fits those requirements is appreciated thanks.
Why are you intent on a sealed box? I hope you realize, when you use a Behringer DCX2496 or comparable DSP controller (as is the plan here for any serious DIY sub set up), this device can make a high quality ported cabinet sound EXACTLY like a sealed subwoofer, except the ported unit will have far higher output and lower distortion in the lowest octave.

-Chris
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I dont really need the smallest box, i think i have her talked into a box around 4cu ft at most. Ive heard 8w7's in the car audio world and i just like the sound of the 12's more.

Is there anyone that has heard both the W7 and the Maelstrom and can compare the sound of the 2 drivers?

My amp came in yesterday, but i have nothing to hook it up to yet :(
Talk to Warpdrv. He owns both! :)
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Talk to Warpdrv. He owns both! :)
Can he really go wrong here. It doesn't matter what you build as long as you do it well it will blow away anything you could have bought commercially.
 
D

dmillerc5

Audiophyte
Hey guys, I am new to this forum (1st post). I've been trolling quite a bit and would be interested in your comments on the following situation.

I have a 12W7 (sealed cabinet) which I built for my car. I am now planning a home theater and considering using this driver/cabinet. Here's my problem -- I can't seem to find any amp which is stable at 2 ohm (bridged) in order to drive the 3 ohm 12W7 with reasonable power (as I will have to compensate with a substantial eq, etc.). I really like the ep2500 but have seen where some have even had issues runnin bridged mode @ 4ohms. I am planning to use a BFD DSP1124 for the eq.

Does anyone know if I can actually use a single channel on ep2500 (not bridged). I see the rating is 2x1200 watts @ 2ohm. Would this hurt the amp with one channel not being used? I really like the ep2500 for the price but not sure if this amp would work for me.
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
Hey guys, I am new to this forum (1st post). I've been trolling quite a bit and would be interested in your comments on the following situation.

I have a 12W7 (sealed cabinet) which I built for my car. I am now planning a home theater and considering using this driver/cabinet. Here's my problem -- I can't seem to find any amp which is stable at 2 ohm (bridged) in order to drive the 3 ohm 12W7 with reasonable power (as I will have to compensate with a substantial eq, etc.). I really like the ep2500 but have seen where some have even had issues runnin bridged mode @ 4ohms. I am planning to use a BFD DSP1124 for the eq.

Does anyone know if I can actually use a single channel on ep2500 (not bridged). I see the rating is 2x1200 watts @ 2ohm. Would this hurt the amp with one channel not being used? I really like the ep2500 for the price but not sure if this amp would work for me.
Looks like you'll have to build another sub then have a pair :D
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Hey guys, I am new to this forum (1st post). I've been trolling quite a bit and would be interested in your comments on the following situation.

I have a 12W7 (sealed cabinet) which I built for my car. I am now planning a home theater and considering using this driver/cabinet. Here's my problem -- I can't seem to find any amp which is stable at 2 ohm (bridged) in order to drive the 3 ohm 12W7 with reasonable power (as I will have to compensate with a substantial eq, etc.). I really like the ep2500 but have seen where some have even had issues runnin bridged mode @ 4ohms. I am planning to use a BFD DSP1124 for the eq.

Does anyone know if I can actually use a single channel on ep2500 (not bridged). I see the rating is 2x1200 watts @ 2ohm. Would this hurt the amp with one channel not being used? I really like the ep2500 for the price but not sure if this amp would work for me.
Your best bet is by far the EP2500 and I doubt you will need all of it's power to drive this sub to your desired SPL unless you are just a deaf man. It will have no issues driving your sub. the amp is very stable and has been used for the 13w7 as well.

However be careful eqing low frequencies. We don't want you to blow these beautiful subs. I suggest you model your sub in WinISD Pro.
 
D

dmillerc5

Audiophyte
Looks like you'll have to build another sub then have a pair :D
Sweet.. quick fix. I'll just have to "pass the hat" for funds for another W7 :eek:

I see you have the ep2500. Bridged or 2-channel?

I also see you have an XPA-5 - nice! I am running an XPA-2 on my mains (lascalas) - that's why I need lots of power for my sub. Current sub is a polk dswpro600. :(

I'd really like to find someone running a 2-3ohm load from an ep2500.
 
D

dmillerc5

Audiophyte
Your best bet is by far the EP2500 and I doubt you will need all of it's power to drive this sub to your desired SPL unless you are just a deaf man. It will have no issues driving your sub. the amp is very stable and has been used for the 13w7 as well.

However be careful eqing low frequencies. We don't want you to blow these beautiful subs. I suggest you model your sub in WinISD Pro.
Thanks lsiberian. So it sounds like running an ep2500 in bridged mode (w/3ohm load) should be okay as long as I don't go crazy with the levels.

I may have to give this combo a try. Like I say, I am in planning mode on my threater and just starting out. thx!
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Sweet.. quick fix. I'll just have to "pass the hat" for funds for another W7 :eek:

I see you have the ep2500. Bridged or 2-channel?

I also see you have an XPA-5 - nice! I am running an XPA-2 on my mains (lascalas) - that's why I need lots of power for my sub. Current sub is a polk dswpro600. :(

I'd really like to find someone running a 2-3ohm load from an ep2500.
The load is really more like a 3 ohm load in my modeling and the EP2500 could easily handle that bridged IMO.

The voice coil only takes 1500 watts I believe so You could probably run one per side.

At peak performance in the right ported box this sub can get rock concert level SPL.
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
Sweet.. quick fix. I'll just have to "pass the hat" for funds for another W7 :eek:

I see you have the ep2500. Bridged or 2-channel?

I also see you have an XPA-5 - nice! I am running an XPA-2 on my mains (lascalas) - that's why I need lots of power for my sub. Current sub is a polk dswpro600. :(

I'd really like to find someone running a 2-3ohm load from an ep2500.
I have two kappas so I run 2-channel, and as most here know its unreal :eek:
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
I have two kappas so I run 2-channel, and as most here know its unreal :eek:
In the right box the JL Audios are about twice as loud as the Kappa's in capability, but sawz can tell you that will end up being head room in most cases.

I do suggest you build a new box for these if you have the space and time. At the very least line your box with rock wool(covered with burlap(thanks Jamie!)) and put in some dense oak bracing on every axis.

I really like a 5.0 cuft box tuned to 21zh, but size may be an issue with that.

If a mod could move this to the DIY area I believe it would be a more appropriate area with the direction the thread is taking.
 
ErinH

ErinH

Audioholic General
I was going to do this a while back but wound up letting the 12w7 go simply because funding 2 of them was going to be very costly... even at e-bay prices. Not to mention the buid/amp for it.

Back then I had modeled the 12w7 in a fairly large box, with a tune at 22hz, iirc. Seems it was 4cubes +. IMO, if you have the space to build a large box and tune low, there's no reason not to. These subs will absolutely get down low.

Like suggested above, use a modeling program to get a ballpark idea of what you want to do. I actually spoke with manville smith who gave me a couple suggestions, but it's been so long ago that I don't remember any of them.

Model it up, and build it. For HT tune it low.

I'm still not 100% that the 12w7 is the route I would go if I were starting from scratch. But if you already own it, then knock yourself out. Just don't throw your back out when moving the sub+box around. :D
 
D

dmillerc5

Audiophyte
Thanks everyone for their insightful comments. Unfortunately in the neart-term, I do not see myself building a new box, at least for now. I am bit short on time and money (as always) for all my projects.

I have an EMO UMC-1 pre-ordred (been on the waiting list waaaay too long) which will be my HT pre-pro.

I would like to get the DSP1124 and EP2500 first and see how my current sealed box sounds with some eq. I'm sure it will quickly replace my polkdsw600.

Once the other components of my system start coming together, a new sub box build will likely be the cards. :cool:
 
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