Diy active sub kit or building from plans?

V

Vil

Audioholic Intern
TLS, that in wall project looks impressive . One last question. From the site I gave you, you have chosen SPA100 and 250 plate amps. The 250 on his (Wagner) site is $559 but he also sells SPA300D for $359. I don’t know why more powerful amp is cheaper but is there any reason why I couldn’t use that? Just curious.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
TLS, that in wall project looks impressive . One last question. From the site I gave you, you have chosen SPA100 and 250 plate amps. The 250 on his (Wagner) site is $559 but he also sells SPA300D for $359. I don’t know why more powerful amp is cheaper but is there any reason why I couldn’t use that? Just curious.
I think you could use that SPA300D. The 250 watt amp, gives you greater control options. But I think you certainly could use the SPA300D.
 
V

Vil

Audioholic Intern
Ok, here’s my slow progress. I have ordered both woofer and plate amp. I should get it sometimes next week. In the meantime, I have started with box. Cut most panels from MDF and here is my question. As per picture, is the position of my vent ok? As you can see, I have opted for slightly stretched shape rather than square, keeping the recomended volume plus the volume of internal fill-ins.
 

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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Ok, here’s my slow progress. I have ordered both woofer and plate amp. I should get it sometimes next week. In the meantime, I have started with box. Cut most panels from MDF and here is my question. As per picture, is the position of my vent ok? As you can see, I have opted for slightly stretched shape rather than square, keeping the recomended volume plus the volume of internal fill-ins.
The position of your vent is just fine. It looks as if you are off to a "flying" start.
 
V

Vil

Audioholic Intern
Thanks TLS, ha ha not really flying. Just taking time. I could assemble entire box and do all that hole drilling afterwards but don’t want to do it before I get all my gear. I’m going to use pva glue and screws instead of nails to put it all together
 

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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Thanks TLS, ha ha not really flying. Just taking time. I could assemble entire box and do all that hole drilling afterwards but don’t want to do it before I get all my gear. I’m going to use pva glue and screws instead of nails to put it all together
You can't nail MDF, and screws are not really needed. The best thing to use is carpenter's glue (The yellow stuff) and box clamps.






You want Rabbet joints rather than use butt joints.
 
V

Vil

Audioholic Intern
I only use screws to keep panels in the right location. I don’t have that many clamps to support every section of the box. Too late for rabbet joint now. Small screws are countersunk below the level so I can cover them with putty later on.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I only use screws to keep panels in the right location. I don’t have that many clamps to support every section of the box. Too late for rabbet joint now. Small screws are countersunk below the level so I can cover them with putty later on.
Make sure you use 3/4" X 3/4" or 1" X 1" batons in the corners to screw into. Particle board does not take screws well.
 
V

Vil

Audioholic Intern
Hi TLS, I’m having trouble finding adequate vent pipe for the design you sent me. It’s meant to be flared on both ends with 2” internal diameter and the length 6.766”. I don’t know how accurate it has to be. I found similar on ebay but don’t know if it’s good enough. Seems like the narrowest section is close to 2” but the length is only 6.3”. Alternatively, I can have a crack at doing my own but I’d rather use something professionally made. Is there perhaps a site I could order one?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Hi TLS, I’m having trouble finding adequate vent pipe for the design you sent me. It’s meant to be flared on both ends with 2” internal diameter and the length 6.766”. I don’t know how accurate it has to be. I found similar on ebay but don’t know if it’s good enough. Seems like the narrowest section is close to 2” but the length is only 6.3”. Alternatively, I can have a crack at doing my own but I’d rather use something professionally made. Is there perhaps a site I could order one?
l am out of town. I will answer you later.
 
M

MrBoat

Audioholic Ninja
Homemade works nice if you add a secondary layer inside the cabinet to hold the PVC flush against the back and then do a round-over with the router. Can also flare the inside over a metal bowl by heating it with a heat gun if you need the other end flared.



1681821207666.png


 
Eppie

Eppie

Audioholic Ninja
Hi TLS, I’m having trouble finding adequate vent pipe for the design you sent me. It’s meant to be flared on both ends with 2” internal diameter and the length 6.766”. I don’t know how accurate it has to be. I found similar on ebay but don’t know if it’s good enough. Seems like the narrowest section is close to 2” but the length is only 6.3”. Alternatively, I can have a crack at doing my own but I’d rather use something professionally made. Is there perhaps a site I could order one?
List of port tubes on Parts-Express:
https://www.parts-express.com/search?keywords=port tube&order=relevance:desc

https://www.parts-express.com/Precision-Port-2-Flared-Port-Tube-Kit-268-348?quantity=1
Adjustable port kits can be cut to length and glued with ABS pipe cement. The plans should state whether the length is for a flared port or not (flared ports need to be longer).
 
isolar8001

isolar8001

Audioholic General
Looking very nice....brings back memories!
Ever think of finishing it with roll-on black truck bed liner ?
I wish I had that stuff back in the day.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Hi TLS, I’m having trouble finding adequate vent pipe for the design you sent me. It’s meant to be flared on both ends with 2” internal diameter and the length 6.766”. I don’t know how accurate it has to be. I found similar on ebay but don’t know if it’s good enough. Seems like the narrowest section is close to 2” but the length is only 6.3”. Alternatively, I can have a crack at doing my own but I’d rather use something professionally made. Is there perhaps a site I could order one?
It was a good thing that you raised this issue. For some reason the program had a glitch. That 2" port did not look right. I rechecked it and it should be 3.5" in diameter, and 21" long with two flared ends or 3.5" diameter 19 3/4" long with two flush ends
 
V

Vil

Audioholic Intern
Thanks for letting me know before too late, at least while I have access inside the box. Ok, that pipe will have to be bent upwards. I see what I can find locally .
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Thanks for letting me know before too late, at least while I have access inside the box. Ok, that pipe will have to be bent upwards. I see what I can find locally .
Might look around at parts-express.com
 
V

Vil

Audioholic Intern
I found 3.5” pipe in the local plumbing shop. Just hope it won’t change things drastically since the extra volume of my box originally allowed for 2”x 6.7” vent pipe. 3.5x 21” is quite a difference.
What do you cement pvc to mdf with? I was thinking, rough up the surface and use epoxy mixed with saw dust.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I found 3.5” pipe in the local plumbing shop. Just hope it won’t change things drastically since the extra volume of my box originally allowed for 2”x 6.7” vent pipe. 3.5x 21” is quite a difference.
What do you cement pvc to mdf with? I was thinking, rough up the surface and use epoxy mixed with saw dust.
That should be fine.

Here is your corrected PDF.
 

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