Dead Klipsch R-100SW 10" Subwoofer

Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
Purchased in 2019. Power light is on, no output. Tried a new cable, etc. Two of these hooked up to an Onkyo AVR. Switched the cables, still nothing. What is usually the cause when this happens? Is there a remedy? Buy a new plate?
You don't even get the buzz when you sort of accidentally touch the posi lead on the cable. The other sub, yes.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
Purchased in 2019. Power light is on, no output. Tried a new cable, etc. Two of these hooked up to an Onkyo AVR. Switched the cables, still nothing. What is usually the cause when this happens? Is there a remedy? Buy a new plate?
You don't even get the buzz when you sort of accidentally touch the posi lead on the cable. The other sub, yes.
So one still works? If so did you swap inputs? Can be the plate amp or the output, rule the output out first.
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
Yeah, traded outputs. Same sub still dead.
 
isolar8001

isolar8001

Audioholic General
Seen many many reports over on AVS of dead Klipsch amps...especially on the 15's
Besides a new plate amp (better ask Klipsch quick to see if they even have any) you could do an old trick I did once around 10 years ago.
I had a couple of those BIC F12 subs with one amp burnt out....I just opened them up and rewired the woofers together in series with a jumper wire to run off of one amp. Didn't sound all that much different !! A little lower in output was all.
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
If I can't find one or the cost is unreasonable, I may check Parts Express and see if they have a plate that fits. Funny thing is, I never noticed until this morning. No clue when it blew up. Apparently, only one 10" sub is needed for that bedroom.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
Yeah, traded outputs. Same sub still dead.
Let Klipsch now that there is an amp issue appearing on your audio forums and use that as leverage for a replacement. Velodyne replaced an amp for me after multiple failures reported..
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
Let Klipsch now that there is an amp issue appearing on your audio forums and use that as leverage for a replacement. Velodyne replaced an amp for me after multiple failures reported..
Pretty sure it's out of warranty. Tell them anyway? ha
 
isolar8001

isolar8001

Audioholic General
Klipsch want 350 bucks for a sucky replacement amp for the 15....probably has the same exact fault as the original.


 
Teetertotter?

Teetertotter?

Senior Audioholic
My one Klipisch 10" R-100SW is still holding up. I did not know there was a PC board issue. I don't like a whole lot of base and the gain/volume is at the 9 o'clock position. I have had my R-100SW since November 2019. Perhaps the batch mine came from is okay or not have to worry? lol If the PC board failed, a cold solder joint, over time, will make that component fail. Cold solder joints do happen in production if the wave solder machine is not at the right temps. I'll keep my fingers crossed as my R-100SW does what it is supposed to do, with quality sound.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Pretty sure it's out of warranty. Tell them anyway? ha
That is a problem. It has probably failed because that plate amp is class AB. Class AB amps are not good for subs, as they make too much heat and ventilation is often inadequate.

That is a small form amp. It is hard to find one that will fit. In any event a class D amp is going to cost about the same as what Klipsch quoted you.

After a search I doubt replacing that amp is cost effective.

Crutchfield have a 10"SVS sub on special.

Your other option is to build a better sub.
 

Attachments

everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
Pretty sure it's out of warranty. Tell them anyway? ha
Absolutely, if they have a known fault even out of warranty, there's a good chance of some help, whether free or pro-rated. That Velodyne amp I mentioned was 5 years out of warranty and I paid $175 plus shipping (and that amp was from the TOL subs)
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
Klipsch want 350 bucks for a sucky replacement amp for the 15....probably has the same exact fault as the original.


That's crazy. This sw is still for sale on Amazon for $199. Not that I'd buy another one though.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I will call Klipsch in the morning and see what I can find out. Otherwise, can I use this as a second sub? Is it important to have matching subs when you use two in a 5.2.2? https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1000-10-100-Watt-Powered-Subwoofer-300-628?quantity=1
Another option is to go with just one. I'll see how that works out tonight.
I would not touch that sub with a barge pole. There is NO specification other than it is a 10" sub. I highly doubt it is actually a sub. The subs you have, have an F3 of 32 Hz, so really only classify as bass modules.

That sub in the attachment just about qualifies as a sub as F3 is 27.4 Hz. Most 10" subs do make it under a sub classification. It so happens that 10" driver has ideal T/S parameters for TL loading. This is the result I measured.



Low pass at 80 Hz.
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
I would not touch that sub with a barge pole. There is NO specification other than it is a 10" sub. I highly doubt it is actually a sub. The subs you have, have an F3 of 32 Hz, so really only classify as bass modules.

That sub in the attachment just about qualifies as a sub as F3 is 27.4 Hz. Most 10" subs do make it under a sub classification. It so happens that 10" driver has ideal T/S parameters for TL loading. This is the result I measured.



Low pass at 80 Hz.
Well dang! Looks like I should sell the one that works while I can. Maybe give the bad one away.
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
I just bought the 12" Dayton SUB 1200 on Parts Express. I am very sure one will do more than needed for that room. Gonna sell the Klipsch that still works and maybe give the bad one away. Not even calling Klipsch in the morning! Super helpful guys, as usual!
 
Squishman

Squishman

Audioholic General
I would not touch that sub with a barge pole. There is NO specification other than it is a 10" sub. I highly doubt it is actually a sub. The subs you have, have an F3 of 32 Hz, so really only classify as bass modules.

That sub in the attachment just about qualifies as a sub as F3 is 27.4 Hz. Most 10" subs do make it under a sub classification. It so happens that 10" driver has ideal T/S parameters for TL loading. This is the result I measured.



Low pass at 80 Hz.
I misunderstood. I assumed you were referring to the Klipsch. Well I didn't buy the 10" Dayton. I bet the 12" Dayton cuts the mustard. Here's hoping!
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I misunderstood. I assumed you were referring to the Klipsch. Well I didn't buy the 10" Dayton. I bet the 12" Dayton cuts the mustard. Here's hoping!
Do you have a link to the one you are interested in? Did you look at the specs. You have to make informed decisions about purchases or you end up with junk. Junk purchases are the most expensive in the long run. The whole scene is populated with junk. Hope gets you nowhere.

Buying for quality is the best way to stretch dollars. When you were here you heard gear that was over 60 years old. That is because I won't buy junk and I am careful and deliberate where I spend my money.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
This room is not huge. Doesn't need much. But I do understand your point. Here is the link to the one I bought. https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1200-12-120-Watt-Powered-Subwoofer-300-629?quantity=1
So you have bought a sub with no specification apart from it being a 12" sub. Even in the manual there is no specification. At that price you could not even make a sub driver let alone make a driver, box and amp.

There is no specification as it is NOT a sub, if it was they would prove it, and brag about it.

You have bought absolute junk, cancel your order pronto!
 

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