Dayton 18" HO Ported Build Thread

Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
Moving it is quite a chore. There is certainly no picking it up. After I got it all assembled I laid it onto my scale and it weighed something like 184lbs empty.

Right now I have the first one completely put together, sanded, round overs done and I have been painting it the last few days. SO far so good! Should get it up and running this weekend I am thinking. The second one needs to have the front baffles cut out before I attach them to the rest of the box. It should be at this same stage another 10 days or so I reckon'

I am using both PL and Titebond III for gluing the enclosure. I only used the epoxy to add additional strength to the threaded metal inserts. Titebond is too thin and PL is just not as strong. I have had bad experiences with T nuts in the past and wanted to make sure whatever I used this time was going to be reliable and most of all extremely durable. Personally I think the titebond is stronger than the PL when talking gluing wood but it is also much messier when gluing certain pieces and the PL works better for stuff that can't be clamped since it is much thicker.

I also like plywood more than MDF. The MDF is less forgiving but I can see the merits. It cuts cleaner and provides a much better base for a finish. If I had the budget for 1" baltic birch that would have been my first choice but the cost would have more than doubled. Appleply would have also been great but alas its not available in my area and also costs more. I did not see a reason to use anything other than what I was using for the panels to make the bracing. Most all of it comes out of the cutoff's anyway.

The last time I built subs I built the simple kappa design which uses the bottom and back panels for the slot port. The thing I did not like was that the slot port opening was only the thickness of the bottom panel away from the the bottom of the enclosure. Can't really do a big roundover on the opening without it looking odd. doing it this way solves that problem and also reinforces that large area of panel that would otherwise not have any bracing in it.

And I will agree you cannot have too many clamps. I could have used 10 more if I had them. Especially attaching on the top panel.

More pics to come this weekend once I finish painting it and get everything put together. Still not sure exactly what I will use for feet or spikes. The thing is so darn heavy the spikes will probably go right through the crap subfloor in the place I am living. To be completely honest I am a little worried the extra weight of the two subs and amps piled up with the rest of my gear might be a little too much weight for a structure that was built as poorly as this house was.
 
ARES24

ARES24

Full Audioholic
I can't wait to see them and hear your opinion of them. Good Job on the build so far!
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Thanks for the answers you really are a dedicated builder. I honestly envy the shop space.

You might look at a great gamma instead of spikes. I find it much easier to deal with when moving my sub around.
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
Its ALIVE!

Okay well one of them is. And I am not sure just how alive it really is because of my neighbors and limited mains power supply. One circuit for this entire room just doesn't cut it.



Attaching the wire inside the cabinet. I used two pieces of 12/2 speaker wire. Cause' why not. Then put them in some wire loom. Played with a few different ideas but ended up drilling some 1/8 holes in the bracing to be able to zip tie the wire securely in place.





Also got the 2" thick rockboard 60 installed. Lined the two side walls of the front of the cabinet nearest the driver and added a couple of small pieces in the area along the floor between the port and the side wall to kill any echo in there as well both in the front and the back.



Sanded down the cabinet. Used a 6" ROS with a hard sanding pad that made quick work of any imperfections and smoothed everything out. I also used the 3/4" roundover on the corners lengthwise but only used a 1/8 roundover everywhere else.





original bondo on the screw holes. Did the first fill then sanded, filled again and the second time I skimmed over it more and did not sand it completely back down to bare MDF to help it blend better.



I did not get any photos of painting it along the way but I used some rust oleum semi gloss ultra cover paint from home depot sold in quart size cans. Only used about 1qt for the entire sub. The stuff went a long way. I painted two coats then went over any rough areas with some 220 grit by hand. Especially the end grain areas then put another 2 coats on. Used a small foam roller to apply. I am pretty pleased with the paint job. I did not think i could get these kind of results with a roller. Last time I used a professional HVLP unit and I would say this is on par with that finish only not as smooth but I like the slight texture anyway.





The port was a bit of a chore. its so deep I just cant get my arm all the way in there. The parts you can see when simply looking at it in a room look great but with a flashlight looking near the back it is not perfect. I used some black spraypaint. Same brand and type and fogged the whole inside of the port and it took care of most of the visible scratches I put in the paint from when I first painted the port interior before assembly.



Next step was moving the behemoth. Needed to get a hand truck to do the job. No way this would be a hand carry and sliding it along the floor from my "shop" to my room was not an option.



Getting ready to drop in the driver. Used two pieces of 12AWG per positive and negative lead.



I also bought some copper ring terminals to attach the wire to the dayton binding posts. Great. But then I went to put it in the cabinet and found out I was stupid and the hole I cut nice and small to keep everything tight was too small for these big lugs.


Had to improvise and cut out some more of the hole with a forstner bit. Looks like a hack job but it is hidden I guess and I did not want to get the router back out and make a big mess.



At first I put the sub where I thought I would place them. Between my front speakers. well besides the fact it does not fit there without pushing my main speakers against the wall it also did not sound very smooth at all. There was a huge null in my listening position. SO... I did the subwoofer crawl.



obviously you can see the room I have now is less than ideal but its only for a few more months.

When doing the crawl I found the best response was pretty much right where the door going into the room is. Well... That won't work for subwoofer placement. The next best place was where my desk is directly across the room on the other wall. That won't work either.

Not the best place but the most acceptable of the possible candidates is a recessed corner area where my toolbox was. So.. Thats where it sits now. Bass response definitely improved but I still have a ton of tweaking to do and getting the DCX setup. I also need to finish the second sub and get it up and running.



The thing sure is a beast. the photos really do not do it justice on sheer size. I am thinking the second one will go towards the front of the room next to my desk. Really nowhere else is a good place for something that size in this room but again I am really just looking at the future when I can get a decent room dedicated for the stereo.

Can't give any impression on listening yet. I have plenty of adjusting settings still to do before then but I will say that the couple brief times I turned it up a little bit there is quite a bit of potential here!
 
jcparks

jcparks

Full Audioholic
good friggin lord man that thing is beautiful... Your craftsmanship is amazing. If you dont mind my asking what was the final build cost for one Sub with the driver but without the amp? Just in materials.
You should take a picture of someone sitting on the sub so we can get an idea of its size...
 
ARES24

ARES24

Full Audioholic
good friggin lord man that thing is beautiful... Your craftsmanship is amazing. If you dont mind my asking what was the final build cost for one Sub with the driver but without the amp? Just in materials.
You should take a picture of someone sitting on the sub so we can get an idea of its size...
Small women make for a better pic. nothing implied!!!;);):D
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
Cost, well here is just a rough estimate. You could cut costs by using cheaper wood glue and cheaper binding posts. And of course unless you have a fully stocked workshop you should figure in some money for tools. Blades, bits, paint, rollers...etc I had to buy a bunch of clamps, new tablesaw blade, router bits, etc.

Driver 249.75
Binding post plate 10.90
Binding post 18.47
1" MDF 5 sheets required for a pair. You would probably need 3 sheets for a single without rearranging the cut layout. 64.00/sheet
Wood glue 20.00
PL 20.00
epoxy 5.00
socket cap screws 6.00
threaded inserts 8.00
paint 18.00
bondo 8.00
MDF screws 12.00
Rockboard 60 or 80 30.00

ROUGH cost for a single ~$600.00
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
Here's the paint I ended up using. Like I said I am pretty happy with the results using this paint and it seems pretty durable.

 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
Moving it is quite a chore.

The last time I built subs I built the simple kappa design which uses the bottom and back panels for the slot port. The thing I did not like was that the slot port opening was only the thickness of the bottom panel away from the the bottom of the enclosure. Can't really do a big roundover on the opening without it looking odd. doing it this way solves that problem and also reinforces that large area of panel that would otherwise not have any bracing in it.
The extra thickness at the bottom is the same application I used on the Kappa build way back when, as I thought that the port looked odd so close to the bottom of the cabinet , it just made sense. This build of yours is pretty intense and well executed. I hope you post the dcx settings as well , I always like to learn all I can about that piece.
 
JohnnieB

JohnnieB

Senior Audioholic
WOW! That is a Beautiful sub. Really, very nice. :cool: Love the roundovers. I agree on the port being further from the bottom edge, gives a very nice finished look.
I may have missed it, what is final weight?
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
Not exactly sure on the final weight since I did not weigh it fully assembled but around 220lbs I think
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Nice work!

I like your bracing technique. So many designs today forget to tie all 6 panels together with bracing.

That thing is definitely a beast! Any plans to test in an open site ground plane?
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
Nice work!

I like your bracing technique. So many designs today forget to tie all 6 panels together with bracing.

That thing is definitely a beast! Any plans to test in an open site ground plane?
I currently do not have any plans to try hauling one of these into an open area for testing. Someday down the road perhaps but not at the moment. Where I work we have a large anechoic chamber made for testing antennas... It did cross my mind to see if perhaps I could wrangler one of these things in there and do some testing. That would probably be easier than hoisting it up 100' in the air like they do at Axiom Audio. Come to think of it they do have a large crane where I work too... hmm...
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
Time once again for an update. Today I finally got the second cabinet finished and hooked up! The paint job on the second cabinet did not come out as good as the first one. One of the quarts of paint I used had something wrong with it I think. It was lumpy and even though I could roll out the lumps it resulted in an irregular finish. My "workshop" was also probably colder and may have affected the final product. The temperature in there is right at the limits of the temperature.

Anyway, To the pics!



I needed to find a replacement for the stock fans in the QSC amplifiers to help quiet it down. I purchased some EBMPapst 24VDC fans from Mouser. They were not the quietest ones they stocked but they had the best overall noise/airflow specs. Much quieter but still noticeable with nothing playing. Airflow through the heat sink is still pretty decent though not as high as the stock fans.



New fan on the left stock on the right.



Always measure twice. or more. Good idea to just take off a hair when cutting holes just to be sure you have the right measurements before cutting all the way through.



Photos of the bracing. Speaker wire installed already.



Note that the rockwool is not yet installed.





All painted up and moved into the room. Where do i put this beast!?



Driver wired up and ready to drop in.



Anti-seize on the bolts to ease in installation and removal if needed. Anything you can do to decrease the amount of torque required to install the bolts the better. Less stress on the threaded inserts. And if you ever have to remove them they will not be seized in place. I like "never seeze" but this is some copper stuff I use on my spark plugs.



Learned my lesson the first time around and made the cutout a little bigger this time for the big ring terminals I installed on the binding posts.



Just to give you an idea of the size. Those are PSB stratus Goldi speakers. Dwarfed by the sub.



I did not have any speaker wire long enough to reach the sub farthest away without splicing. I found some 10/2 speaker wire in the bargain bin at liberty cable. got a 250' spool for a very good price. Of course I do not need 250' right now but I have plans for this stuff in the future. Their "ultracap" stuff is better but they do not offer 10 AWG in that product and they did not have any on clearance.



quicker panoramic to show the placement right now. There is simply not enough room in this current place I am living to properly setup this system but hopefully that will be changing in the coming months and I will be able to really get this setup properly and see what it can do without bothering any neighbors. The panoramic really smooshed the depth of the sub in the back corner.

This weekend I will hook up the USB microphone again and get everything dialed in now that they are both finished. And maybe the neighbors will leave and I can crank it up a little bit!
 
JohnnieB

JohnnieB

Senior Audioholic
What kind of bum you trying to make me out to be? :mad: You have both subs done and I STILL haven't started mine. :confused: Well I guess, congratulations on fine work. :D They look very nice and I bet they sound even better. Thank you again for allowing myself and others to follow along.
 
afterlife2

afterlife2

Audioholic Warlord
Looks amazing. Congrats and let us know how you like them when you get them dialed in.
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
Haoleb . how is the speaker wire attached to the ring terminals, is it just as easy as inserting the wire and crimping or was solder involved, and the connection at the driver , could you show us how that was done as well , I am not a fan of the solder iron , give me a blow torch and or welding tools anytime but that darn solder iron bites lol
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
The ring terminals were made for heavier gauge wire than two 12awg put together so just crimping them with a crimp tool even if you had one big enough would not properly crimp them. I inserted the wire, crimped them down with a crimp tool just to hold the wire in place then literally put the lug between two smooth face hammers and hammered it completely into one solid piece making a good cold weld joint. Solder is not necessary however I do often crimp and solder non insulated lugs.

The speaker side I just stripped the wire back enough to be sure it would fully go through the connector on the driver and twisted both wires together and inserted them. No lugs or solder involved on this end.



 
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