Dayton 18" HO Ported Build Thread

B

bassbear

Audiophyte
well, not sure when and what really happened - looks like Rob Harrison used new driver parameters and shared with us nice documentation in this thread:

I'm even more confused because one of my local stores (europe) still uses old parameters:

while the other european stores, us partsexpress and manufacturer have already new in place:

I assume last link should be the best source of truth :) correct?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
well, not sure when and what really happened - looks like Rob Harrison used new driver parameters and shared with us nice documentation in this thread:

I'm even more confused because one of my local stores (europe) still uses old parameters:

while the other european stores, us partsexpress and manufacturer have already new in place:

I assume last link should be the best source of truth :) correct?
Well they sure mucked that driver up. They have made it more of a pro driver, with increased sensitivity. It also moved more to a sealed design. You can only get an F3 below 30 with an extended bass alignment. By the look of the FR they have also cheapened the motor system.

That is a real pity.

The enclosure volume has not changed that much, but the porting is a little different.

The data on the Dayton site and Parts Express agree.

I have attached a pdf using the updated specs.

Unfortunately that driver will have lower SQ than the former one.
 

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B

bassbear

Audiophyte
Well they sure mucked that driver up. They have made it more of a pro driver, with increased sensitivity. It also moved more to a sealed design. You can only get an F3 below 30 with an extended bass alignment. By the look of the FR they have also cheapened the motor system.

That is a real pity.

The enclosure volume has not changed that much, but the porting is a little different.

The data on the Dayton site and Parts Express agree.

I have attached a pdf using the updated specs.

Unfortunately that driver will have lower SQ than the former one.
Thanks a lot for quick remodeling. If the driver is not that nice now is it still worth using or is there any other driver i can buy instead in similar budget? (no need to be 18" if have better parameters for BR)
My room: 50 m^2 attay
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Thanks a lot for quick remodeling. If the driver is not that nice now is it still worth using or is there any other driver i can buy instead in similar budget? (no need to be 18" if have better parameters for BR)
My room: 50 m^2 attay
There probably is a better solution. What are your specs, size, cost, bass extension and power handling? I am a little busy at the moment, so it could be a while before I get to it.
 
B

bassbear

Audiophyte
No rush :) i don't have pressure to biuld it imidiatelly.
Will it be still based on that driver or should i create new thread to not make offtop here?
Would like to build sub which will help my kef q950 + q650 in music and HT in ~ 50m² attic.
Expected low bass / box size > 200l + is ok . Driver should be available in EU. Budget about $600 - please note that this driver cost over $600 in EU.
Inicially I had plan to use T.AMP 1050 MK-X in bridged mode but I have noticed recently that it can't go to 4 ohms in bridge mode so need to stay on 2x520W@4Ohm (lowest possible impedance accepted). Not sure if it can go with that big speaker. Possibly i will have to buy amplifier as well or use 2 smaller drivers instead.
Not sure what else should I post here :)
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
No rush :) i don't have pressure to biuld it imidiatelly.
Will it be still based on that driver or should i create new thread to not make offtop here?
Would like to build sub which will help my kef q950 + q650 in music and HT in ~ 50m² attic.
Expected low bass / box size > 200l + is ok . Driver should be available in EU. Budget about $600 - please note that this driver cost over $600 in EU.
Inicially I had plan to use T.AMP 1050 MK-X in bridged mode but I have noticed recently that it can't go to 4 ohms in bridge mode so need to stay on 2x520W@4Ohm (lowest possible impedance accepted). Not sure if it can go with that big speaker. Possibly i will have to buy amplifier as well or use 2 smaller drivers instead.
Not sure what else should I post here :)
Which country are you in? That matters. I will try and pick a driver made in the EU.

I do need to know what sort of bass extension you are looking for. Those speakers are quite potent and according to spec, can achieve 113 db. That might be a challenge to match that at your budget, but if you don't play very loud then you won't need 113 db. The F3 of your speakers is 44 Hz, so despite size they have no deep bass to speak of. So crossover on the 60 to 80 Hz range will be appropriate.

I need as much information as possible so I don't waste my time.

You can start a new thread if you want, and that is probably a good idea. To make the thread useful you need to provide full information on your equipment, listening room, and how you intend to use the system.
 
B

bassbear

Audiophyte
@TLS Guy greetings from Poland :)If it is not possible no need to go to 113db.
Let's continue here:
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
@TLS Guy greetings from Poland :)If it is not possible no need to go to 113db.
Let's continue here:
I will see what I can up with and try and pick a European driver.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I will see what I can up with and try and pick a European driver.
I have done lot of research on this. I can not come up with a European driver. Pretty much all that I have designs for have been discontinued. The European manufacturers have reduced their catalogs.

In addition, particularly in Europe, there is a marked trend away from high Qts. drivers.

This is a trend that on the whole I agree with.

In the USA, as I have pointed out many times, there is this unhealthy preoccupation with the lowest F3. This war has come at the expense of bass quality. I can hear this when I listen to a lot of American subs. They may go deep, but the quality is often awful. This is not something that shows in standard measurements, but it sure does when you play it in your room, and especially in the smaller the rooms with the high Schroeder numbers. European rooms tend to be smaller than American rooms and so the deleterious effect of high Qts subs are all the more apparent.

Anyhow, I think you are best off using this Dayton driver per your specs.

As it so happens I have a design on file for this driver, and fully worked up, for a 12" sub that would be a very nice sounding sub. It is one I think you would be very pleased with, as you can see from the models. The size is also very practical. I actually worked this up as a design I plan to build for our family room.

I think that will be a very high value sub, that you would be very pleased with.
 

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