Could this sub work at 20hz ok?

TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
And about that 15" again that says it should go in a 4.2ft3 box tuned at 22hz. That box should be fine right? Why would parts express be wrong?
Your problem is that you are not only ignorant, but also belligerent. That is not a winning combination.

I have 66 years speaker design experience now, and I have done my very best to help you.

The last model I sent you fits your requirements perfectly.

You want a ported sub, nothing wrong with that.

You want it to reach the last octave. It does. It is 3db down at 24 Hz, so that is only four cycles away, and the loss of output from 24 to 20 Hz is negligible. Room gain will more then obliterate that loss anyway.

The design specifies a driver that is specifically designed for ported application. Your driver is not. This is important as in creating a design, bass quality is even more important than extension.

The design I shared with you I can be certain will provide very high quality bass. If you look at the included graphs, and no how to understand, you can see that sub has outstanding specs. If you had looked properly, you would see that sub will produce 107 db at 20Hz with only 150 watts of power.

The design is also cost effective and relatively easy to build. It is cheap enough you can afford to build two if you want.

That design fulfils everything you are trying tp achieve.

That is all I have to say on the matter. You asked for help, you have got it free and gratis, now get on with it.
 
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cameron paterson

Senior Audioholic
I can't find the Dayton RSS315 sub on partexpress. I found the Dayton Audio RSS460HO 18". It says 7.5ft3 tuned at 23hz. This driver models well. I got it to work on WinIsd. I just couldn't figure out how to use WinIsd earlier. Sorry I dont know how to post the graphs on this site.
 
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cameron paterson

Senior Audioholic
Can I run a sonotube enclosure with that 18" Dayton sub with a single 6" aeroport? I know there would be chuffing but would it effect the sound? With a 6" aeroport and 7.5ft3 tuned at 23hz the port would have to be almost 15" long. So what do I do?
 
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cameron paterson

Senior Audioholic
I would use the Dayton RSS315 sub if you would give me a link to it. But I would have to go with a single 4" aeroport. A 6" aeroport would have to be to long. Is the 4" aeroport going to cause problems?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
I can't find the Dayton RSS315 sub on partexpress. I found the Dayton Audio RSS460HO 18". It says 7.5ft3 tuned at 23hz. This driver models well. I got it to work on WinIsd. I just couldn't figure out how to use WinIsd
I did a design for that Dayton 18" driver some years ago. It is one of the most potent subs you could build. A number of members have built it, and been thrilled with it. One also did measurements and those agreed with the model exactly. The problem is that it is a large box. It you will absolutely have to construct a slot vent for that enclosure, or it will chuff. The 12" design you can just get away with a couple of 4" tube vents as specified in the design.

If you want the ultimate that 18" design is it. The 12" will be an excellent sub for the vast majority, it is cost effective and the size not outlandish. So it is a practical design.

You must follow the designs closely though. You can download the design for the 18" from my website.


Dayton Audio RSS315HFA-8 12" Reference HF Subwoofer 8 Ohm

That 12" is available, but Parts Express have only one left currently. It is not discontinued, I checked with Dayton.

Either one will be a good build, but when you add port, brace and speaker volumes back, the final volume is around 10 cu.ft. for the 18" design.
Some addicts here have built it though. Prepare to need lots of help moving it!
 
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cameron paterson

Senior Audioholic
So the box after all displacements is 7.7ft3? Tuned @ 19hz? Thank you for the design! I think I am going to do this.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
So the box after all displacements is 7.7ft3? Tuned @ 19hz? Thank you for the design! I think I am going to do this.
I thought that might catch you eye. If you have one or two of those, you know you are sub "top dog."

The box volume when you add the displacements is 8.92 cu. ft. You should do you own calculations of bracing etc. However that is the internal volume, when you add the volume of the outer construction materials, then that unit is going to take up around 10 cu.ft. of space. I hope you are still in the single lane! If not there could be trouble ahead for you.

That thing can produce just short of 120 db at 20 Hz, with 700 watts. At that point it is not a speaker, but a demolition device, so I don't advise putting it to the test indoors.
 
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cameron paterson

Senior Audioholic
Well right now I have a TC Sounds LMS-R ultra 5400 in a 7ft3 box tuned at 20hz. Its being run on an a Crown XLS2500 amp. And 4 DIYSG MBM's are being powered by an Crown XLS 1002. Will this Dayton 18" setup be a good fit for what I have? Or could it cause problems? More subs fills up the room better with bass right? I would be putting it in the opposite corner of the room behind my couch.
 
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TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
Well right now I have a TC Sounds LMS-R ultra 5400 in a 7ft3 box tuned at 20hz. Its being run on an a Crown XLS2500 amp. And 4 DIYSG MBM's are being powered by an Crown XLS 1002. Will this Dayton 18" setup be a good fit for what I have? Or could it cause problems? More subs fills up the room better with bass right? I would be putting it in the opposite corner of the room behind my couch.
Since I have no knowledge of your current subs, especially their alignments, it is impossible to advise you. I stand by my designs as being optimal for the drivers involved. I can not advise you further on this matter, except to say, that if that sub is inferior to my designs, it will do more harm than good.
 
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cameron paterson

Senior Audioholic
So I shouldn't do the 18" sub you modeled?
 
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cameron paterson

Senior Audioholic
Well the TC Sounds is obviously the better driver.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
Well the TC Sounds is obviously the better driver.
I would not say it is obvious. TC went bankrupt. I went to model it, but the forums show that quite a few specs are suspect. So I really don't know what you have. I have hunch though the Dayton may well be the better driver, with production more consistent.
 
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cameron paterson

Senior Audioholic
8 years ago it was deemed the best subwoofer in the world.
 
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cameron paterson

Senior Audioholic
Right in the corner behind my couch and it absolutely slams and takes anything you throw at it with my Crown XLS 2500 amp which has its very own breaker so its getting as much juice as possible! I have it eq'd 3.5db hot around 20hz and it shakes the house with a test tone of 15hz without the amp clipping.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Slumlord
8 years ago it was deemed the best subwoofer in the world.
The operative word in that sentence is was.

I do note some post from you, which I missed, about port size. You have absolutely no leeway in my designs about porting without ruining the sub.

Length and port area are critical. If you shorten the port, then it has to be narrower and the vent air velocity gets too high. You must keep the vent air velocity just below 20 m/sec. If you look at the vent air velocity graphs in my designs, you will see that I do that. Also you don't want the port area larger then necessary as it then get long enough to have port resonances audible.

If a design has to have a port too long, then you must make it a passive radiator design, or model a different driver.

So you ask the question if you can use different ports, and the answer is absolutely not.
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
If you like the TC Sounds, why are you trying something different? I am not sure you are gaining much here unless you are going from a 15” to an 18” (displacement mainly).
I know the TC drivers were known to have high and even increasing inductance (due to theirs coil design) as the frequency increased making them suitable for playback below 70hz or so. In that regard the Dayton may be a better overall performer with music and transients higher in frequency.
 
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