Car Amp Wattage for new Speakers?

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shanethelegend

Enthusiast
Hey guys I know this isn't a car forum but I'm sure the amps and wattage info are similar, car shop says I need a new amp for my new inifinity kappa coaxal 63xf and 6.5 infinity kappa 603cf component speakers for the crossovers to go into and get the best sound out of the $500 speakers. I know nothing about amps but these are the specs for the speakers and this is the amp I was planning on getting because it's the same brand. Does this look like enough RMS or wattage to get the full potential of these speakers? The bottom 2 pictures are the speaker specs, and the top 2 are the amp specs the amp is normally 200 on sale 135 right now
 

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lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
You using the crossover in the amp or have a separate unit? One pair of speakers (two drivers per speaker)? I tend to just buy more powerful amps, but that one looks like you could rock out pretty well with it. Full potential means what, deafening volume level? :)
 
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shanethelegend

Enthusiast
You using the crossover in the amp or have a separate unit? One pair of speakers (two drivers per speaker)? I tend to just buy more powerful amps, but that one looks like you could rock out pretty well with it. Full potential means what, deafening volume level? :)
Yeah so the component front speakers came with crossovers but I just put bass blockers/capacitors on them since I was planning on getting an aftermarket amp soon anyways, and full potential meaning, I want close to its max potential hahaha, like how the amp says 60 watts and the speakers max wattage says 85 means i should get an amp close to 85 watts right?no static, best bass response ect. The back speakers are just coaxal and have no crossovers, everything's built in
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Full potential doesn't mean much if it's beyond your listening levels, and a speaker's max rating is more about limits before damage rather than anything more useful....on the other hand you could get a much more powerful amp, say 150-200 wpc to cover peaks and future flexibility....but with the sensitivity of those speakers probably not needed. Keep in mind it takes a doubling of power to gain merely 3dB spl. You using eq boosts? That can chew up some more power....
 
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shanethelegend

Enthusiast
Full potential doesn't mean much if it's beyond your listening levels, and a speaker's max rating is more about limits before damage rather than anything more useful....on the other hand you could get a much more powerful amp, say 150-200 wpc to cover peaks and future flexibility....but with the sensitivity of those speakers probably not needed. Keep in mind it takes a doubling of power to gain merely 3dB spl. You using eq boosts? That can chew up some more power....
Yeah I have messed with the equalizer alot and get alot of the highs are great but starts to static out with the lows, and I was planning on getting 2 subwoofers soon too but I know those need alot more power and a separate amp. Also do you know if I even need the crossovers that came with the speakers if the amp was built in crossovers already?? I was also looking at this one is 75w instead of 60w
 

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lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Yeah I have messed with the equalizer alot and get alot of the highs are great but starts to static out with the lows, and I was planning on getting 2 subwoofers soon too but I know those need alot more power and a separate amp. Also do you know if I even need the crossovers that came with the speakers if the amp was built in crossovers already?? I was also looking at this one is 75w instead of 60w
I'd at least experiment with both the active crossovers the amp offers as well as the passive ones you've got (at least it sounds like they're passive). Static out doesn't sound good....what the heck is that? No point in pushing beyond limits unless you just like to see melting points....
 
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shanethelegend

Enthusiast
I'd at least experiment with both the active crossovers the amp offers as well as the passive ones you've got (at least it sounds like they're passive). Static out doesn't sound good....what the heck is that? No point in pushing beyond limits unless you just like to see melting points....
Like pretty much when there's too much bass the speakers sound like it can't produce the sound or something and it's not even that loud, like a crackling sound almost. But I think that's just because my stereo let's me go alot louder than I think my speakers can handle because it's happens in my old car I had that head unit in also. Another issue with the passive crossovers were that my doors are really really heavy and the guy who installed the speakers said you don't want all that vibration going through them so maybe just the amp active crossovers will be best?
 
isolar8001

isolar8001

Audioholic General
Like pretty much when there's too much bass the speakers sound like it can't produce the sound or something and it's not even that loud, like a crackling sound almost. But I think that's just because my stereo let's me go alot louder than I think my speakers can handle because it's happens in my old car I had that head unit in also. Another issue with the passive crossovers were that my doors are really really heavy and the guy who installed the speakers said you don't want all that vibration going through them so maybe just the amp active crossovers will be best?
As someone who sold and installed high end car audio for years, I will make a few suggestions.
Live with what you get.
The same set of speakers will sound 10 different ways in 10 different cars.
The door is your enclosure. It may or may not have good acoustics.
If those speakers came with crossovers, use them.....a bass blocker (capacitor) is not crossing the tweeter over.

If you are not using the supplied crossover, you are running that tweeter full range and letting the woofer try to do highs...I would imagine it sounds awful.
Just imagine all the home speakers here with their crossovers removed...they will sound like death.

You need amps to do what you want...and subs. Running a component set from a head unit never goes well.
Running a component set without its crossover is suicide.
The crossover in any amp is just a cutoff and pass.Even with amps, you must use that crossover.
Your installer should know better, if he is an actual audio installer.
 
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shanethelegend

Enthusiast
As someone who sold and installed high end car audio for years, I will make a few suggestions.
Live with what you get.
The same set of speakers will sound 10 different ways in 10 different cars.
The door is your enclosure. It may or may not have good acoustics.
If those speakers came with crossovers, use them.....a bass blocker (capacitor) is not crossing the tweeter over.

If you are not using the supplied crossover, you are running that tweeter full range and letting the woofer try to do highs...I would imagine it sounds awful.
Just imagine all the home speakers here with their crossovers removed...they will sound like death.

You need amps to do what you want...and subs. Running a component set from a head unit never goes well.
Running a component set without its crossover is suicide.
The crossover in any amp is just a cutoff and pass.Even with amps, you must use that crossover.
Your installer should know better, if he is an actual audio installer.
This is the answer I was looking for, yeah the guy seemed shady he didn't install the crossovers because he said you need an aftermarket 4 channel amp to do it and in the meantime put crossovers in to not ruin the speakers from "underwattage" was his excuse. I still have the crossovers and plan on getting subs and another amp for my trunk, but do you think either of those amps would be good? And if my doors are really heavy and alot of vibration is it bad to install the crossovers inside possibly messing with the signals?
 
isolar8001

isolar8001

Audioholic General
This is the answer I was looking for, yeah the guy seemed shady he didn't install the crossovers because he said you need an aftermarket 4 channel amp to do it and in the meantime put crossovers in to not ruin the speakers from "underwattage" was his excuse. I still have the crossovers and plan on getting subs and another amp for my trunk, but do you think either of those amps would be good? And if my doors are really heavy and alot of vibration is it bad to install the crossovers inside possibly messing with the signals?
I would go back and make him do the job right.
Those speakers will blow, those crossovers are designed to be put in less than ideal environments.

As far as suggestions for your car, there are too many variables.
We could go around for days on a forum like this.
If you pulled into my shop years ago, I would have fixed you up for the best price and the best gear...I cant do anything for you over the internet. Sorry.

Your best bet would be to search out a reputable car audio shop in your area and go there....let an expert look at your car and budget and leave the internet out of the equation.
 
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shanethelegend

Enthusiast
I would go back and make him do the job right.
Those speakers will blow, those crossovers are designed to be put in less than ideal environments.

As far as suggestions for your car, there are too many variables.
We could go around for days on a forum like this.
If you pulled into my shop years ago, I would have fixed you up for the best price and the best gear...I cant do anything for you over the internet. Sorry.

Your best bet would be to search out a reputable car audio shop in your area and go there....let an expert look at your car and budget and leave the internet out of the equation.
I honestly don't want these guys touching my car again they even messed up the window motors/lock mechanism on my car and had to pay my mechanic 150 to fix it but they Gave me a 2 year warranty on the speakers, it seemed like a good deal at first because they said if I buy the speakers from them installation is free. But now I see why everyone else charges for proper installation
 
isolar8001

isolar8001

Audioholic General
I honestly don't want these guys touching my car again they even messed up the window motors/lock mechanism on my car and had to pay my mechanic 150 to fix it but they Gave me a 2 year warranty on the speakers, it seemed like a good deal at first because they said if I buy the speakers from them installation is free. But now I see why everyone else charges for proper installation
Car audio is much more difficult than it used to be.
Finding a good shop is hard since 90 percent of them are gone.

Most cars made in the last 20 years don't take kindly to having aftermarket electronics installed...you cant change the radios in most of them, and doing anything to the stock audio system voids warranties.

Those that are running around with big woofers in the back have just tapped into the rear speaker wires for high level signal...Barbaric.
 
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shanethelegend

Enthusiast
Car audio is much more difficult than it used to be.
Finding a good shop is hard since 90 percent of them are gone.

Most cars made in the last 20 years don't take kindly to having aftermarket electronics installed...you cant change the radios in most of them, and doing anything to the stock audio system voids warranties.

Those that are running around with big woofers in the back have just tapped into the rear speaker wires for high level signal...Barbaric.
Yeah also on top of that this is there install job they didn't tell me about when I took off the panels for my electrician to fix the windows/locks mother switch. The tweeter didn't even look connected and they slipped a screw and it looks like it went through the speaker rubber ring part. So I definitely don't want them ever touching my car again. So I don't know who I'm going to have install this amp. Like you said there are are hardly any audio shops near me that don't have a hunch of shady reviews
 
isolar8001

isolar8001

Audioholic General
Yeah also on top of that this is there install job they didn't tell me about when I took off the panels for my electrician to fix the windows/locks mother switch. The tweeter didn't even look connected and they slipped a screw and it looks like it went through the speaker rubber ring part. So I definitely don't want them ever touching my car again. So I don't know who I'm going to have install this amp. Like you said there are are hardly any audio shops near me that don't have a hunch of shady reviews
What car ?? That makes a huge difference. There are a million ways to do a system.
My specialty in the old days were Rockford Fosgate Punch systems...one amp running many speakers, subs and all. Passive crossover components.
I didn't fool around with those little generic cheapie amps...more trouble than they were worth.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Hey guys I know this isn't a car forum but I'm sure the amps and wattage info are similar, car shop says I need a new amp for my new inifinity kappa coaxal 63xf and 6.5 infinity kappa 603cf component speakers for the crossovers to go into and get the best sound out of the $500 speakers. I know nothing about amps but these are the specs for the speakers and this is the amp I was planning on getting because it's the same brand. Does this look like enough RMS or wattage to get the full potential of these speakers? The bottom 2 pictures are the speaker specs, and the top 2 are the amp specs the amp is normally 200 on sale 135 right now
Where are you that you couldn't look for a better price? Crutchfield sells these speakers for $100 less.

Whether this is enough power depends on several things-

Do you plan to use or add a subwoofer? If so, it could be enough.

Do you want to play it extremely loud? If so, I would say that it's not enough unless you plan to severely limit the bass going to these and use avery potent subwoofer with an amp that's large enough for the bass you'll need- it has not=hing to do with 'want', a loud system needs a lot of power for the bass because that's what provides the feeling of 'loud'. Loud without full range is considered 'intense' because it often causes people to cover their ears.

What make/model of car, has the engine been modified and is it loud, what head unit and what else do you have in the audio system?
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
What car ?? That makes a huge difference. There are a million ways to do a system.
My specialty in the old days were Rockford Fosgate Punch systems...one amp running many speakers, subs and all. Passive crossover components.
I didn't fool around with those little generic cheapie amps...more trouble than they were worth.
You know those passive crossovers wasted a lot of power, right?
 
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shanethelegend

Enthusiast
Its a 2003 g35 infiniti cou
Where are you that you couldn't look for a better price? Crutchfield sells these speakers for $100 less.

Whether this is enough power depends on several things-

Do you plan to use or add a subwoofer? If so, it could be enough.

Do you want to play it extremely loud? If so, I would say that it's not enough unless you plan to severely limit the bass going to these and use avery potent subwoofer with an amp that's large enough for the bass you'll need- it has not=hing to do with 'want', a loud system needs a lot of power for the bass because that's what provides the feeling of 'loud'. Loud without full range is considered 'intense' because it often causes people to cover their ears.

What make/model of car, has the engine been modified and is it loud, what head unit and what else do you have in the audio system?
It's a g35 infiniti coupe 2003 they are 6.5 inch speakers and even on Crutchfield they are 300 for the components and 150 for the coaxal so I only really lost about 50 bucks but they installed them for free just a really shitty job I had to get fixed anyways. And the engine has not been modified but the stock exhaust is somewhat loud. It has a kendwood ddx3 head unit I put in which is I found out last night 22 watts rms
 
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shanethelegend

Enthusiast
You know those passive crossovers wasted a lot of power, right?
So you wouldn't recommend putting the speakers directly to active crossovers in amp instead of both? my door are really heavy and could possible interfere with the signals the shop said
 
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shanethelegend

Enthusiast
What car ?? That makes a huge difference. There are a million ways to do a system.
My specialty in the old days were Rockford Fosgate Punch systems...one amp running many speakers, subs and all. Passive crossover components.
I didn't fool around with those little generic cheapie amps...more trouble than they were worth.
It's a 2003 g35 coupe small car
 
isolar8001

isolar8001

Audioholic General
So you wouldn't recommend putting the speakers directly to active crossovers in amp instead of both? my door are really heavy and could possible interfere with the signals the shop said
I think he is trying to be funny...otherwise he has no idea what he is talking about. Obviously never been to Rockford Fosgate school.
 

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