How to properly configure this sub?

[Timforhifi]

Get a y splitter, that cable isn’t good enough with a monolith sub. Look up female to 2 male rca splitter. You’ll see so many

also ditch arc, use your pc for all audio and video. This is actually really simple fix. Later on upgrade your avr.

 

[sgtkahuna]

Get a y splitter, that cable isn’t good enough with a monolith sub. Look up female to 2 male rca splitter. You’ll see so many

also ditch arc, use your pc for all audio and video. This is actually really simple fix. Later on upgrade your avr.

Only one? or two splitters?

 

[nicoleise]

View attachment 72194

From the picture of your room, you sub doesn't appear to be twice as far as your front speakers?

I'd imagine this delay, if it's actually present in reality and not some artifact of the measurement, could cause some cancellations at the main listening position.

So just in case, I'd measure the distance from the listening position to each speaker and manually input them to be correct.

 

[sgtkahuna]

From the picture of your room, you sub doesn't appear to be twice as far as your front speakers?

I'd imagine this delay, if it's actually present in reality and not some artifact of the measurement, could cause some cancellations at the main listening position.

So just in case, I'd measure the distance from the listening position to each speaker and manually input them to be correct.

I measured and the listening position is 9 feet

The subwoofer is slightly behind the left speaker

 

[nicoleise]

I measured and the listening position is 9 feet

The subwoofer is slightly behind the left speaker

In your picture if the settings I quoted the subwoofer is set up as 20+ ft away. The FL and FR are about 9-10 ft approximately.

This means your receiver is adding delay to the FL and FR speakers equivalent to the time it takes sound to travel the difference of about 10 ft in order for the sound from all the speakers to arrive at your ears at the same moment in time.

When the difference is set up but doesn't exist in reality, the output from FL and FR will still be delayed, but since there's no difference in distance in reality, the sound will not arrive at your ears at the same moment in time.

This offset could cause some cancellations at certain frequencies although I haven't checked if it's in frequencies relevant to what you're experiencing. Thus the suggestion to simply fix the wrong settings since you'll benefit regardless.

 

[sgtkahuna]

That cable is fine. I think your problem is that ARC connection form your TV. Those are problematic. The root cause I suspect is the very basic receiver and HDMI via ARC from the TV. What TV is it and what are the TV audio settings.

Someone mentioned buying a RCA splitter to get more power, I tried not using ARC but then I don't get any video signal on the projector, I'm not sure how I could ditch ARC with my current configuration.

On the PC I use a software named Monitor Profile Switcher, it lets me switch between video outputs and audio outputs, when I switch to the TV it uses only the TV for video and for audio it uses the Fiber Optic Cable, when I switch to the projector it only uses the image from the projector and the audio switches to the BenQ projector

 

[sgtkahuna]

In your picture if the settings I quoted the subwoofer is set up as 20+ ft away. The FL and FR are about 9-10 ft approximately.

This means your receiver is adding delay to the FL and FR speakers equivalent to the time it takes sound to travel the difference of about 10 ft in order for the sound from all the speakers to arrive at your ears at the same moment in time.

When the difference is set up but doesn't exist in reality, the output from FL and FR will still be delayed, but since there's no difference in distance in reality, the sound will not arrive at your ears at the same moment in time.

This offset could cause some cancellations at certain frequencies although I haven't checked if it's in frequencies relevant to what you're experiencing. Thus the suggestion to simply fix the wrong settings since you'll benefit regardless.

I manually corrected the values and lowered the Subwoofer dB to +5.0 many of you mentioned +10 was too much, but the subwoofer power lowered considerbly and the gain knob its at 12 O'Clock

 

[sgtkahuna]

No new thread needed.
How is the PC connected ? What cabling ?
What is the audio capabilities of the PC ? It's specs and output parameters.

If you are using HDMI out from the PC for audio and video , then you have to have the PC set correctly...even then, channelling that through your tv to the receiver can introduce problems....

No, the sub should work without Pure Direct.

And +10db in your situation seems abnormally high....a good indicator of something seriously wrong in the setup.
I suspect the PC to receiver connection.
Try a source other than the PC...anything, a cd player, game console...etc.

Sounds to me like you have a source issue.

I switched to 2 CH. Multi Stereo and now I'm getting signal from the subwoofer without the need of Pure Direct but the left and right speakers output bass I'm not sure if thats ok

 

[nicoleise]

I manually corrected the values and lowered the Subwoofer dB to +5.0 many of you mentioned +10 was too much, but the subwoofer power lowered considerbly and the gain knob its at 12 O'Clock

The sound is lower because you lowered from 10 to 5 dB. Its fine.

The gain knob on the subwoofer should not be at 12 o'clock but rather at the position labelled "+0 dB". Sub settings left to right:

• Crossover maximum setting
• Phase 0 Deg.
• Level +0dB (from there, adjust to taste on your receiver)
• Crossover switch THX
• EQ THX
• Power as you want. Auto On makes the most sense.

You then need to go back to page 2 of this thread and read 3dBs posts where he shows pages from the manual to your receiver. That shows in which modes the subwoofer actually outputs sound. You obviously need to use those modes for the sub to work, and you need to be aware that the receiver may store settings per mode, which means the receiver may change your subwoofer level for example differently for Dolby ProLogic and MultiCH.

You speaker settings/layout in the receiver should be 2.1 (assuming you have FL, FR and subwoofer only), and front speaker size set to small. Cross over is a matter of taste, but try 80 Hz in the menu on your receiver for a good compromise.

Those setting should definitely give you a good starting point, unless there are other issues at play.

From there, you should be able to play material and hear/feel the sub. If you still do not, please be accurate in your description of the issue, as the thread is a bit confusing to read (at one point the sub shook the room, now its umimpressive as I gather). For example, if you do hear/feel bass from the sub, but would like more, try increasing the level in the receiver. Does that help or not? If not, try increasing the level on the back of the sub. Does that help or not? Etc.

It could be that there's something to the cable stuff, and it could be that your sub is in a really poor position in the room and thus has it's output "sucked out". But it's very difficult to discern without accurate feedback from you, and mostly I think it's a "trap" made of the combination of your experience and a very confusing receiver. For example, it makes very little sense that it will simply not output to sub in certain modes, and it should always show a layout diagram on the display to make it clear what it is doing, not needing to review tables in the manual.

 

[sgtkahuna]

The sound is lower because you lowered from 10 to 5 dB. Its fine.

The gain knob on the subwoofer should not be at 12 o'clock but rather at the position labelled "+0 dB". Sub settings left to right:

• Crossover maximum setting
• Phase 0 Deg.
• Level +0dB (from there, adjust to taste on your receiver)
• Crossover switch THX
• EQ THX
• Power as you want. Auto On makes the most sense.

You then need to go back to page 2 of this thread and read 3dBs posts where he shows pages from the manual to your receiver. That shows in which modes the subwoofer actually outputs sound. You obviously need to use those modes for the sub to work, and you need to be aware that the receiver may store settings per mode, which means the receiver may change your subwoofer level for example differently for Dolby ProLogic and MultiCH.

You speaker settings/layout in the receiver should be 2.1 (assuming you have FL, FR and subwoofer only), and front speaker size set to small. Cross over is a matter of taste, but try 80 Hz in the menu on your receiver for a good compromise.

Those setting should definitely give you a good starting point, unless there are other issues at play.

From there, you should be able to play material and hear/feel the sub. If you still do not, please be accurate in your description of the issue, as the thread is a bit confusing to read (at one point the sub shook the room, now its umimpressive as I gather). For example, if you do hear/feel bass from the sub, but would like more, try increasing the level in the receiver. Does that help or not? If not, try increasing the level on the back of the sub. Does that help or not? Etc.

It could be that there's something to the cable stuff, and it could be that your sub is in a really poor position in the room and thus has it's output "sucked out". But it's very difficult to discern without accurate feedback from you, and mostly I think it's a "trap" made of the combination of your experience and a very confusing receiver. For example, it makes very little sense that it will simply not output to sub in certain modes, and it should always show a layout diagram on the display to make it clear what it is doing, not needing to review tables in the manual.

• Level +0dB (from there, adjust to taste on your receiver)

  [*]

How to adjust that on the receiver? I tried navigating through different menus but I don't see anything similar since I didn't found how to do that on the receiver I left the knob around 1 pm

Cross over is a matter of taste, but try 80 Hz in the menu on your receiver for a good compromise.

What value would you recommend for the T6's? no music just Movies.

 

[nicoleise]

How to adjust that on the receiver? I tried navigating through different menus but I don't see anything similar since I didn't found how to do that on the receiver I left the knob around 1 pm

So, the knob on the subwoofer and the level setting that you just changed from 10 to 5 dB essentially do the same thing - determine how loud the subwoofer plays.

What I'm saying is; set the sub to +0 dB (as you did now) and then change the level on the receiver (in the menu where you changed 10 to 5). It's more convenient to then adjust the level on the receiver.

To a point though, because you don't want the receiver to be a +10 dB and the sub at -6 dB for example. So in that case, you adjust on the sub so that your desired result sits somewhere around 0...+5 dB on the receivers menu. But I didn't mention that because I don't think you should need to turn it up that much yet, since it can "disguise" other problems that you're better off noticing.

What value would you recommend for the T6's? no music just Movies.

I would stick with my suggestion of 80 Hz. According to the frequency response, the speakers seem to manage down to that range with a bump at 100 Hz.

https://downloads.monoprice.com/files/images/43149_06.jpg

 

[sgtkahuna]

So, the knob on the subwoofer and the level setting that you just changed from 10 to 5 dB essentially do the same thing - determine how loud the subwoofer plays.

What I'm saying is; set the sub to +0 dB (as you did now) and then change the level on the receiver (in the menu where you changed 10 to 5). It's more convenient to then adjust the level on the receiver.

To a point though, because you don't want the receiver to be a +10 dB and the sub at -6 dB for example. So in that case, you adjust on the sub so that your desired result sits somewhere around 0...+5 dB on the receivers menu. But I didn't mention that because I don't think you should need to turn it up that much yet, since it can "disguise" other problems that you're better off noticing.




I would stick with my suggestion of 80 Hz. According to the frequency response, the speakers seem to manage down to that range with a bump at 100 Hz.

https://downloads.monoprice.com/files/images/43149_06.jpg

Thanks! what are your thoughts about the Y rca splitter some one mentioned?

 

[nicoleise]

Thanks! what are your thoughts about the Y rca splitter some one mentioned?

No idea. It doesn't make much sense to me, to be honest, but I don't have experience with neither Sony receivers nor Monolith subs. I've never needed one for other setups though, unless connecting two subwoofers to one output.

LFE/subwoofer out is mono, and the only reason the receiver has two sub outputs is for bass management purposes. So apart from any corrections made (bass management), the output through both those should be identical.

At the other end (the sub) there are two input terminals, and splitting the same signal across two input terminals doesn't seem to accomplish much in my simple mind.

I don't think it's the root of the issue you have though. As outlined above, I think levels need to be correct, you need to use modes where the sub actually works (and confirm levels on those), adjust your subwoofer level/gain to preference and if you still don't get the desired output, I would suggest moving the subwoofer to a different place in the room.

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

No idea. It doesn't make much sense to me, to be honest, but I don't have experience with neither Sony receivers nor Monolith subs. I've never needed one for other setups though, unless connecting two subwoofers to one output.

LFE/subwoofer out is mono, and the only reason the receiver has two sub outputs is for bass management purposes. So apart from any corrections made (bass management), the output through both those should be identical.

At the other end (the sub) there are two input terminals, and splitting the same signal across two input terminals doesn't seem to accomplish much in my simple mind.

I don't think it's the root of the issue you have though. As outlined above, I think levels need to be correct, you need to use modes where the sub actually works (and confirm levels on those), adjust your subwoofer level/gain to preference and if you still don't get the desired output, I would suggest moving the subwoofer to a different place in the room.

The reason to use a Y splitter is because it raises the input sensitivity of the subwoofers amp. This can be helpful when an AVR doesn’t have adequate output. It doesn’t increase maximum output capability, but can help balance the gain structure better.
After calibration, most people aim for around -10 to -8 in the AVR. This gives room to boost the subwoofer while still keeping it in the negative range (below -0) to keep distortion out of the signal.

 

[sgtkahuna]

The reason to use a Y splitter is because it raises the input sensitivity of the subwoofers amp. This can be helpful when an AVR doesn’t have adequate output. It doesn’t increase maximum output capability, but can help balance the gain structure better.
After calibration, most people aim for around -10 to -8 in the AVR. This gives room to boost the subwoofer while still keeping it in the negative range (below -0) to keep distortion out of the signal.

Does it have to be a Y splitter at both ends of the cable? one at the sub and one at the AVR? or just one and to which end?

 

[William Lemmerhirt]

Does it have to be a Y splitter at both ends of the cable? one at the sub and one at the AVR? or just one and to which end?

Just a single male(avr end) to dual male(sub end).
Edit: the above was for a single cable run.
Use this on the end of the sub cable you already have.

Amazon.com

 

[Timforhifi]

Not many people understand how their subwoofers work.

The stereo rca are there for really use of old equipment that didn’t have lfe. On most subs if not all you can use either one for lfe. Using a y splitter is good practice on all of your subs. I’ll give examples why

1. I’ve bought subs from psa for example, they all have had noise or hum if gain is too high on amp plate. They also need to have gain up louder to get full reference bass, but they always hum or hiss. By adding a y splitter and increasing voltage coming from your avr now you can lower psa gain. Eliminating their issue with poor noise. It’ll increase the gain from avr by 6db.

2. You have an avr with low powered preouts. So now you have to always leave your sub on because auto on will never work. Y splitter fixes that.

3. again you have an avr with weak and dirty preouts like your Sony. So you max out gain on your avr to get that chest pounding bass. While doing that your avr is sending high levels of distortion and clipping. The monolith subwoofer needs 2.2v rms to achieve full power. Your Sony can do that at probably 50-60% distortion, equals poor sound quality. Y splitter will allow you to bring the trim on your Sony to -5 or below. Now you’ll get lower distortion from your preouts.

4. Some subwoofers don’t allow you to use phase or crossover options with a single lfe connection. Y splitter will allow you the ability to use that option to fully dial in your sub.

You also need to lower your other speakers in your room and use the proper gain structure of your avr. So many people brag about how it’s so loud at a certain volume. For example I’m at volume 50 on my Sony and it goes to 99 and it’s so freaking loud. Or my denon is at -30 and it’s screaming, imagine it at 0 or reference. That’s not how avrs works, in fact you’re limiting power by doing this. Many avrs power won’t be fully available until that reference gain gets hit, volume 0. If it’s bright and shouty at -30 and super loud you have your speakers trim way too high.

I have the following subs monolith 15v1, monolith 12 v2 gloss black, 3 Rythmik fv18, and 2 hsu vtf3 mk5hp in my house. Using arcam avr31 with dirac, pioneer 805 dirac, Yamaha a4a ypao, marantz 8015 audyssey and Yamaha a2a ypao. They all are different and require learning how they work.

So get a y splitter, fix your trim levels, learn rew, correct your distances(sub could be 2’ or 30’, actual distance means very little) and place the sub in a better location. Try turning sub sideways or backwards. Just experiment and you’ll learn so much.

 

[Timforhifi]

https://a.co/d/1E8Asjn

This is the best y splitter