Best ported enclosure for a stereo integrity?

Kingnoob

Kingnoob

Audioholic Ninja
I have 3 of them in sealed getting 1200 each. They sound good. If I didn't have this null I want to fix i wouldn't be changing anything. I will probably have to sale my psa double 15. Not enough room to keep it.
Is it a huge room 3 of them isn’t enough so you wanted to Try ported ?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Witch dayton subs do you recommend that can do sub 20 hz? It can also be other brands not just dayton. I have no problem changing some drivers. I really want something that can stay around that 5 cubic box ported.
Just what are your extension and spl goals for this?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I have 3 of them in sealed getting 1200 each. They sound good. If I didn't have this null I want to fix i wouldn't be changing anything. I will probably have to sale my psa double 15. Not enough room to keep it.
Are these speakers you built and powered?

Those Ultimax drivers are for sealed application only. Did you build these subs, and if so, how did you power them and even more to the point, how did you equalize them?

All sealed designs need a boost of 12 db per octave below F3, and a high pass filter at x-max of the drivers. Sealed designs are complicated in terms of implementing a functioning system.

I have a feeling you just built a sealed box for those drivers and just powered them without the appropriate equalizing electronics.
 
Kingnoob

Kingnoob

Audioholic Ninja
Are these speakers you built and powered?

Those Ultimax drivers are for sealed application only. Did you build these subs, and if so, how did you power them and even more to the point, how did you equalize them?

All sealed designs need a boost of 12 db per octave below F3, and a high pass filter at x-max of the drivers. Sealed designs are complicated in terms of implementing a functioning system.

I have a feeling you just built a sealed box for those drivers and just powered them without the appropriate equalizing electronics.
could be the issue of op. Even could be some issues with my model ..
Lot of amps like mine don’t include dsp, not sure if bash has a high pass filter but definitely no boost of 12 db per octave below F3. I’ll have to make another Thread .. here’s pics of the bash
 
S

ssmokeyy

Audioholic
Ultimax are only for sealed application. I am leaving now and will model the signature series when I am better.

I do think that you would be better off with two subs with 12 or 15 inch drivers, rather than one though.
My plan is two new ones up front. Plus the 3 rear sealed si sql subs i have in the back now. The psa double will either be sold to make space or some how placed in the rear for more bass
 
S

ssmokeyy

Audioholic
Are these speakers you built and powered?

Those Ultimax drivers are for sealed application only. Did you build these subs, and if so, how did you power them and even more to the point, how did you equalize them?

All sealed designs need a boost of 12 db per octave below F3, and a high pass filter at x-max of the drivers. Sealed designs are complicated in terms of implementing a functioning system.

I have a feeling you just built a sealed box for those drivers and just powered them without the appropriate equalizing electronics.
I built the boxes at 2.5 cubic per driver after bracing. I used the av20 to run audessey than I changed the 45hz down to a plus 10db after I removed the audessey level adjust. No I didnt run a hi pass filter on them. I have those running off speaker power amps.
 
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ssmokeyy

Audioholic
Is it a huge room 3 of them isn’t enough so you wanted to Try ported ?
I have 5 15's right now total running. If u see the pictures my room placement kinda sucks. I have a null in my seat so its like 8db min less bass. If I go to the back row it has all the bass. So new plan is to place 2 15's or 18's up front in the corners. But I have to make alot of changes to do that. New speakers, new subs, even a new av cabinet. Going to take a min.
 
S

ssmokeyy

Audioholic
Just what are your extension and spl goals for this?
I started out dreaming of 140 plus dB. And able to hit 15hz over 110 dB but starting to think with this null its not going to matter. I run my system hot. Like damn close to reference when I watch movies. Its not like I dont know what it takes to hit those levels. I have been building audio systems for over 20 years. But this null is so bad it just kills me.
 
Kingnoob

Kingnoob

Audioholic Ninja
I have 5 15's right now total running. If u see the pictures my room placement kinda sucks. I have a null in my seat so its like 8db min less bass. If I go to the back row it has all the bass. So new plan is to place 2 's or 18's up front in the corners. But I have to make alot of changes to do that. New speakers, new subs, even a new av cabinet. Going to take a min.
that many 15's should be more than enough.
the larger the room the bigger subs plus people need or more .
No room is Big enough for a dedicated theater here . the main tv not my room has just tv speakers.
 
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NINaudio

NINaudio

Audioholic Samurai
I have 3 of them in sealed getting 1200 each. They sound good. If I didn't have this null I want to fix i wouldn't be changing anything. I will probably have to sale my psa double 15. Not enough room to keep it.
With 3 subs you should be able to negate nulls at your MLP with position changes. You likely don't need to be building more subs unless you're not hitting your SPL goal.
 
S

ssmokeyy

Audioholic
I built the subs for the location. I have them i . If u look at the pictures can see the double 15 box is wry long and wont fit anywhere else in the room.
 
Kingnoob

Kingnoob

Audioholic Ninja
I built the subs for the location. I have them i . If u look at the pictures can see the double 15 box is wry long and wont fit anywhere else in the room.
What pictures? Guess they didn’t upload?
 
NINaudio

NINaudio

Audioholic Samurai
I built the subs for the location. I have them i . If u look at the pictures can see the double 15 box is wry long and wont fit anywhere else in the room.
When you placed these subs did you do a sub crawl? I still think with 3 existing subs that your issue can be solved with placement. Also, I'm not seeing any pictures?
 
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ssmokeyy

Audioholic
I will upload pictures when I get up today. No crawl becuase I was really limited on options.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I started out dreaming of 140 plus dB. And able to hit 15hz over 110 dB but starting to think with this null its not going to matter. I run my system hot. Like damn close to reference when I watch movies. Its not like I dont know what it takes to hit those levels. I have been building audio systems for over 20 years. But this null is so bad it just kills me.
Well, I have been designing and building audio systems for over 70 years and AV systems for 20 years.

You can not Eq those subs via audyssey.

What you have to do, and it not optional is: -

1). Accurately measure the subs, with a reliable measurement program and find the F3 point

2). Apply 12 db per octave boost below your measured F3.

3). Now you have to add a steep high pass filter at the point where driver reaches x-max. Needs to be 24 db. per octave.

I have the strongest of suspicions your problems are largely, if not entirely due to design and implementation of those subs you have.

If you can't do that, then get rid of those subs as they may well be doing more haram than good. Then you can DIY some good sealed subs, and instal them. I think this will give a high chance of success. I am certainly prepared to assist with the design of those ported subs

Your current approach will not get you where I think you want to be.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Well, I have been designing and building audio systems for over 70 years and AV systems for 20 years.

You can not Eq those subs via audyssey.

What you have to do, and it not optional is: -

1). Accurately measure the subs, with a reliable measurement program and find the F3 point

2). Apply 12 db per octave boost below your measured F3.

3). Now you have to add a steep high pass filter at the point where driver reaches x-max. Needs to be 24 db. per octave.

I have the strongest of suspicions your problems are largely, if not entirely due to design and implementation of those subs you have.

If you can't do that, then get rid of those subs as they may well be doing more haram than good. Then you can DIY some good sealed subs, and instal them. I think this will give a high chance of success. I am certainly prepared to assist with the design of those ported subs

Your current approach will not get you where I think you want to be.
I'd think it's more about he has different goals/approaches than you do. Just don't see your direction being in his interests here.
 
Kingnoob

Kingnoob

Audioholic Ninja
Well, I have been designing and building audio systems for over 70 years and AV systems for 20 years.

You can not Eq those subs via audyssey.

What you have to do, and it not optional is: -

1). Accurately measure the subs, with a reliable measurement program and find the F3 point

2). Apply 12 db per octave boost below your measured F3.

3). Now you have to add a steep high pass filter at the point where driver reaches x-max. Needs to be 24 db. per octave.

I have the strongest of suspicions your problems are largely, if not entirely due to design and implementation of those subs you have.

If you can't do that, then get rid of those subs as they may well be doing more haram than good. Then you can DIY some good sealed subs, and instal them. I think this will give a high chance of success. I am certainly prepared to assist with the design of those ported subs

Your current approach will not get you where I think you want to be.
Who knew no one told me that back on diy audio when I built my sub . An amp without dsp like mine cannot do that ? Those subs have big xmech , hard to bottom them out . I don’t know if OP has DSP.
 
S

ssmokeyy

Audioholic
All I'm using is audessey multi x. I can set points for every speaker. I can build any filter I need. But I have never had a problem with the xmech. Im giving them very controlled 1200 rms each. Not in the risk of damage zone. Need to be over 1600 rms before damage. I have push them to 1500 in car.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
All I'm using is audessey multi x. I can set points for every speaker. I can build any filter I need. But I have never had a problem with the xmech. Im giving them very controlled 1200 rms each. Not in the risk of damage zone. Need to be over 1600 rms before damage. I have push them to 1500 in car.
That is because you have not equalized them properly. 12db per octave boost below F3 is a lot of power, then the driver needs protection if you are going for high spl. Those Ultimax drivers have a very good reputation for excellent and deep bass of implemented properly in a sealed design. However they don't do well unless perfectly powered with correct Eq, and high passing so xmax is not exceeded.

I am certain that if you implement the correct drive to the subs you have, you won't need anything else. Sealed designs with good output, are always brute force designs. That is not my favored approach, as I prefer a more elegant approaches. That means not fighting against natures laws but using them to advantage.

i can produce all the deep bass any system could use, and do it with modest power. The other issue is achieving seamless integration from top to bottom and around the room.
 
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