Behringer EP2500

[poutanen]

Now I feel left out.

Let me play too.

While I don't have the sheer amptitude of mike... .... I do like to be clip proof - and let's face it - you can get great deals by purchasing pro amps instead of consumer stuff - you typically get more power and better build quality for a lower price in general.

***snip***

-Chris

If you ever run into clipping on that, I'd hate to be your neighbour!

I wish my new house had a bigger theater room, because I was planning on running my 18" subs with a P7000S, and I would have liked to hear how it sounded. But alas it's not big, and I'm going back to AVR power for everything but the sub (probably an HSU ULS-15).

The A500's will stay to run my big Yamahas in the garage!

 

[jnavarro]

Hook for ep2500 amp & Yamaha Rx-v861

I would like to get an ep2500 to power my front's (Polk RTI10's.) I would use the RCA pre-outs on the yamaha to the ep2500, but im not sure which cables I should use: XLR Male to RCA Male or 1/4 inch Male to RCA male?

Thanks for the help!

 

[WmAx]

I would like to get an ep2500 to power my front's (Polk RTI10's.) I would use the RCA pre-outs on the yamaha to the ep2500, but im not sure which cables I should use: XLR Male to RCA Male or 1/4 inch Male to RCA male?

Thanks for the help!

In order to get a low noise floor, you really need to use a line level convertor like the Art Cleanbox to change the low voltage consumer unbalanced RCA pre-out to a pro-level voltage balanced signal out to feed the EP2500. If you use the DSP device, the Behringer DCX2496, you won't need the Ceanbox, as the DCX has an input gain stage optimized for low noise in converting low level signals for the input. The DCX has standard pro level outputs of course. I highly recommend the DCX if you use subwoofers - it allows for far better integration than the receiver's internal crude crossover. Also, the DCX allows for precision correction filters to account for low frequency room response and it can be used as an extremely high grade EQ to adjust your speaker's tonal response.

-Chris

 

[tcarcio]

I would like to get an ep2500 to power my front's (Polk RTI10's.) I would use the RCA pre-outs on the yamaha to the ep2500, but im not sure which cables I should use: XLR Male to RCA Male or 1/4 inch Male to RCA male?

Thanks for the help!

What Wm said is correct but I would also add that without a line leveler like the Art cleanbox or the Rolls MB15 you will get less power out of the amp because of the input voltage. I believe the 2500 needs 1.4v input to reach full power and most HT recievers are less than that and some are alot less. I use the 2500 to power my sub and when I connected the Rolls it was like night and day. I had my gain on the amp at 3/4 without the rolls and now it is less than 1/2 so it really makes a difference.

 

[poutanen]

I would like to get an ep2500 to power my front's (Polk RTI10's.) I would use the RCA pre-outs on the yamaha to the ep2500, but im not sure which cables I should use: XLR Male to RCA Male or 1/4 inch Male to RCA male?
Thanks for the help!

Rather than using one EP2500 and one of the boxes mentioned above, why not use a pair of A500's to power the speakers? I pay $200 a piece, and they're rated for 500w RMS into 8 ohms when bridged... shouldn't have a problem powering the polks!

The A500 already has RCA inputs on it, as well as xlr and 1/4"

http://www.behringer.com/a500/index.cfm?lang=ENG

I'm already using 2 of these to run giant Yamaha pro mains, and they run well. I'd even try using 1 A500 to power the Polks and see if indeed you need more power...

 

[Haoleb]

In order to get a low noise floor, you really need to use a line level convertor like the Art Cleanbox to change the low voltage consumer unbalanced RCA pre-out to a pro-level voltage balanced signal out to feed the EP2500. If you use the DSP device, the Behringer DCX2496, you won't need the Ceanbox, as the DCX has an input gain stage optimized for low noise in converting low level signals for the input. The DCX has standard pro level outputs of course. I highly recommend the DCX if you use subwoofers - it allows for far better integration than the receiver's internal crude crossover. Also, the DCX allows for precision correction filters to account for low frequency room response and it can be used as an extremely high grade EQ to adjust your speaker's tonal response.

-Chris

You know, I am not too sure about this myself. It seems the DCX is not acting as a gain stage in my system because I hooked my Odyssey amps directly to the DCX using XLR to RCA cable and the levels are the same as if i go from my preamp directly to the amps. I also have to Boost my subwoofer output up about 6db to match the levels. Possibly because of a lower input sensitivity of the QSC Pro amps. The main speaker outputs arent boosted, they are on 0db gain.

 

[WmAx]

You know, I am not too sure about this myself. It seems the DCX is not acting as a gain stage in my system because I hooked my Odyssey amps directly to the DCX using XLR to RCA cable and the levels are the same as if i go from my preamp directly to the amps..

Your pre-amp may have very high output levels, or the amps may have low input sensitivity... who knows...

But I can tell you I have had to use 10db in line attenuators on RCA input amps before to prevent the noise floor becoming too high while keeping a large range of level adjustment on the DCX gains. I have also had high noise in some cases by trying to increase gain on a pro level amp to use a NORMAL rca output from a consumer source.

There is no question that the DCX can act as a gain stage for an input, if needed. It has analog variable input pre-amps that are user adjustable from either the front panel of the DCX in the menu or via the computer link with the DCX GUI software.

-Chris

 

[jnavarro]

I was looking for the the biggest bag for the the dollar... with the additional clean box, I might as well just get 2 A500's?

 

[WmAx]

I was looking for the the biggest bag for the the dollar... with the additional clean box, I might as well just get 2 A500's?

The Ep2500 is much better amp than the A500's used bridged. The Ep2500 still has far more power output, and can work down to 2 Ohms and drive ANY speaker in existence of which I'm aware. The A500 used monoblock is not to be used under 8 Ohms. BTW, you can get a new EP2500 for under 300 dollar shipped. All you have to do is search for an online store with a price that is cheap as you can find, then go to zzounds.com to the ep2500 page and click on the price match/zzspy button and give them the price, phone number, link to page on competitor site, etc.. Zzounds is one of the most reputable and top customer service sites around ; and they will beat the price you give them as long as it's an authorized re-seller of the product(which will say full factory warranty or similar if it is).

Right now for example, you can use this site as your price to beat: http://www.djdeals.com/behringerEP2500.htm

Then go here: http://www.zzounds.com/item--BEHEP2500
Scroll down to 'Be a zZounds spy' and click the link. Enter the requested data and you will get a reply on Monday. Most likely, it will be a price match beat for like 285-290 including shipping, based on prior quotes I have received. This lets you get the Cleanbox essentially for free w/Ep2500.

You might even find a price cheaper than DJDeals.com to use as your price match for zzounds.com; I just provided DJDeals.com as it was the first cheap one I came across in my 1 minute Google search. I would suggest you only use highly reputable pro sound retailers like zzounds.com because they will rectify any problems with an order or defective item immediately! For example, when I have received a defective item, even expensive items, they send a replacement out right after I call. They don't even wait for me to return the old one, and they pay for the shipping on the replacement and they pay for the shipping on returning the defective item.

-Chris

 

[jnavarro]

Thanks chris, makes sense... I'm going to see if I can get same ash to match Instant-gratification . If not, I'll go with zzounds. I'm glad I waited till this morning... Almost made the A500 purchase last night. Thanks again!

 

[WmAx]

Thanks chris, makes sense... I'm going to see if I can get same ash to match Instant-gratification . If not, I'll go with zzounds. I'm glad I waited till this morning... Almost made the A500 purchase last night. Thanks again!

BTW, did you order the quiet fan for the EP2500? (Changes out just like a PC case fan - in fact, it's the same type of fan...)

-Chris

 

[jnavarro]

I'll probably hold out on this until its no longer under warranty... I do not think the sound is going to be louder than the mac mini thats hooked up. thanks again!

 

[WmAx]

I'll probably hold out on this until its no longer under warranty... I do not think the sound is going to be louder than the mac mini thats hooked up. thanks again!

Hey, the fan wno't hure the warranty. Just put the old fan back in for warranty claims. There are no factory seals on the EP2500. The fan plugs to the board with standard PC type fan plug. You can cut a plug off an old PC fan and use it on the new silent fan.

Or, if you think your MacMini is that loud, hey, don't bother.

-Chris

 

[jnavarro]

Hey Chris,
Received the amp friday... you were right, very nice, better quality then i anticipated.. have it half way hooked.. had to got out of town this weekend.. can't wait to get back and hook everything up right... Kind of want to get better fronts now then the RTI 10's polk...

 

[fmw]

For those who haven't bought a pro audio amp, I'll put my recommendation in for the Yamaha Club series. They are a little more expensive than the Behringers but they are more reliable and they don't have any fan noise at all when used in a home environment. Behringer is known for cutting corners on his products. Yamaha has better quality overall. It is worth a few bucks more.

My amp is pictured below. It cost me $425 on Ebay with free shipping. It puts out 350 wpc at 20hz - 50khz +.5 -1 db with .1% THD. In other words, it is as clean as any amp you can buy in the home audio business. I think the 4 ohm power is 490 wpc and 2 ohm is 750. Bridged into an 8 ohm speaker it delivers 950 watts and 1400 watts into a 4 ohm. I use it at home for guitar practice and monitoring recordings and I've never had the fan come on. It will come on when it is stressed filling an auditorium with sound but never at home. It has a pair of indicator lights that represent about 1 watt output and these lights flicker as I play a backing track which means I'm running less than a watt average. To be fair they drive very efficient horn speaker systems. But there is plenty of power left and more than you would ever use in a home. So, no fan changes, no concerns about reliability, no power or impedance concerns.

There is a smaller one called the 2500S that still has more power than you would ever use in a home and costs even less.

 

[WmAx]

Hey Chris,
Received the amp friday... you were right, very nice, better quality then i anticipated.. have it half way hooked.. had to got out of town this weekend.. can't wait to get back and hook everything up right... Kind of want to get better fronts now then the RTI 10's polk...

I guess the RT10's are fine for movies and video games. But music, to be played critically, should be used on something far better, IMO!

Any chance you are handy enough to any level of DIY? There are pre-designed kits out there that all you have to do is assemble parts into a pre-finished cabinet; you just cut the holes for the drivers and solder up the crossovers, etc,; these kits will get you a lot more for your money, usually.

-Chris

 

[jnavarro]

DIY is not really an option right now (do not have access to tools) Really liked the Kappa Perfect projects I've seen thou.. Do you have any experience with Pro audio passive subwoofers and their use with home theater? (EUROLIVE PERFORMER E1800X Behringer)?

 

[WmAx]

DIY is not really an option right now (do not have access to tools) Really liked the Kappa Perfect projects I've seen thou.. Do you have any experience with Pro audio passive subwoofers and their use with home theater? (EUROLIVE PERFORMER E1800X Behringer)?

Pro subs are not good for HT. Pro subs are designed for typically 40Hz and higher output.

As for DIY. If you are willing to go sealed, you can use pre-finished cabinets from partsexpress.com that all you have to do is cut a hole for the driver and screw it in. However, going sealed for HT costs more. You have to use a driver with extraordinary linear high excursion to make sealed systems work well for HT where high output at 20Hz is required. I can only recommend drivers that are known for high output and high linearity, as demonstrated in credible 3rd party analysis/testing. The cheapest drivers suitable for this are TC Sounds drivers left over at www.soundsplinter.com or the clearance 10" Audopulse REVO from partsexpress.com that is also made by TC Sounds. You will need to use a bridged mono EP2500 on such a sealed system in order to have sufficient power to EQ the unit flat to 20Hz and have dynamic output capability. Please note that the class of driver I am recommending can not be compared to normal drivers or your expectations of such. As an example, take the 8" JL W7, a driver in the class that I recommend. It can produce output that is superior in distortion and SPL to the average 12" driver, and is matching very good 12" drivers in performance. Such a driver is needed to counter-act the massive loss of low end output when used in a small sealed cabinet. Realize that I will only recommend very high performance solutions that will certainly work as intended. I will not suggest questionable projects and/or untested/unproven drivers. Most drivers are of low performance in terms of motor and/or suspension linearity, and as such, a device or related family of a device must be proven to me in credible 3rd party testing or tested by me before I will make a recommendation.

-Chris

 

[MidnightSensi]

Pro subs are not good for HT. Pro subs are designed for typically 40Hz and higher output.

Well, some of the pop bass bins are.. but, any good soundsystem is good down to 20Hz now days. If its folded horns then you cross over to a sealed bin for the deep bass. Where I play has Bag End subwoofers good down to 8Hz. The Meyer subwoofers at another place I play down to 28Hz and the sound guy says because their are 4 of them after EQ for the room peaks (he only cuts) its flat to 24Hz in there. Another place uses folded horns until 35Hz or so and then moves to sealed bins for the rest of the depth down to below 20. Dynacord, Fabrik One, VLV, etc.

They aren't good for home theater not because of performance but because of being huge, ugly and extremely heavy.

 

[WmAx]

Well, some of the pop bass bins are.. but, any good soundsystem is good down to 20Hz now days. If its folded horns then you cross over to a sealed bin for the deep bass. Where I play has Bag End subwoofers good down to 8Hz. The Meyer subwoofers at another place I play down to 28Hz and the sound guy says because their are 4 of them after EQ for the room peaks (he only cuts) its flat to 24Hz in there. Another place uses folded horns until 35Hz or so and then moves to sealed bins for the rest of the depth down to below 20. Dynacord, Fabrik One, VLV, etc.

They aren't good for home theater not because of performance but because of being huge, ugly and extremely heavy.

I would like to see the measured output at those low ranges of 'average' pro subs then. Because most of the pro audio sub drivers are not physically suited for a range much under 40Hz, due to their Fs and physical excursion limitations. The standard pro audio LF driver is designed with very high efficiency, and an intended bandwidth that keeps excursion very low.

-Chris