Behringer EP2500

[mike c]

just wanted to consolidate the research

good pics on this one:

http://www.headlinedj.com/prodjshow/reviews/behringer ep2500.htm

 

[mike c]

[2a] http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=10753603&postcount=56

[2b] http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=10753603&postcount=56

[2c] http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=10755537&postcount=64

for future reference, i think [2b] is

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=10753638&postcount=57

 

[kicknsupra]

i looked at the EP2500. if its hafe as good as the qsc then i would get one
but i rember the frist time i saw one i was like hey thats a qsc ripoff
but the more i read about them i guess they are all right but i am kind of a qsc fanboy lol
so i am not sure if could buy a fake qsc even if its a good amp
i might try one out for fun but i would look at it in my qsc rack and it might bug me but thats just me

 

[cbraver]

I am now much much happier to conclude that behringer DID NOT design the amp themselves (and most probably imitated the QSC amp for much cheaper), so the EP2500 should be the bang for the buck amp because they did not really spend on R&D (unless you count corporate espionage).

Haha. Look at Genelec's HT monitors and then look at Behringers Truth monitors.

Genelec

Behringer:

That type of thing is hard to proove, and you certainly can't base it on looks. A lot of products look about the same, but, when a company get accused a lot and has a lot of products that are similar to other companies, it gets hard to ignore the elephant in the living room.

 

[tcarcio]

Are the dip switch's on the ep2500 labeled different than the diagram in the manual or am I just

 

[MidnightSensi]

Are the dip switch's on the ep2500 labeled different than the diagram in the manual or am I just

Go with whatever is on the back. Amp manuals tend to be a little outdated or crappy, especially the ones that are translated.

If you are bridging and you see the red light you got it wrong.

 

[mike c]

Are the dip switch's on the ep2500 labeled different than the diagram in the manual or am I just

the ones right beside the dip switches are confusing.

but the labels near the speaker binding posts are correct, just look at those

basically, 2,3,8,9 are supposed to be to the right for stereo mode, no highpass cut IIRC

 

[tcarcio]

Ok, so if you use it for a sub what position should all the pins be in?

 

[mike c]

Ok, so if you use it for a sub what position should all the pins be in?

if you're gonna use bridged mode, there are two dip switches that need to be on as well.

that will give you 1600w at 4ohms bridged.

but if you're gonna use one channel of the amp, use the settings i mentioned above.

 

[tcarcio]

Thanks Mike, I am wireing 2 subs and will run 2 chanells. I must have my dunce hat on today........

 

[WmAx]

Thanks Mike, I am wireing 2 subs and will run 2 chanells. I must have my dunce hat on today........

Warning: the EP2500 has a DIP switch mode to allow you to use only one input and then internally the channel is mirrored to both channels of the amp. However, this function does not work correctly. One channel will be several dB different in level if you use this DIP mode. Run regular stereo inputs and use a Y adapter to feed both inputs so that the channel levels are equal.

-Chris

 

[WmAx]

if you're gonna use bridged mode, there are two dip switches that need to be on as well.

that will give you 1600w at 4ohms bridged.

but if you're gonna use one channel of the amp, use the settings i mentioned above.

Not to be picky, the into an actual 4 Ohm load, it would produce around 1825-1850 watts at 20Hz.

-Chris

 

[mike c]

yep, i keep forgetting to qualify the 1600w with less than 1% THD

 

[tcarcio]

Warning: the EP2500 has a DIP switch mode to allow you to use only one input and then internally the channel is mirrored to both channels of the amp. However, this function does not work correctly. One channel will be several dB different in level if you use this DIP mode. Run regular stereo inputs and use a Y adapter to feed both inputs so that the channel levels are equal.

-Chris

I am useing 1/4 to rca cables. I have my lfe out from my reciever split with a y adaptor and then going to each channel on the amp. If I run my lfe from my reciever to a Rolls or a cleanbox first will that make a difference or will it matter with low freq's?

 

[poutanen]

i'm considering this amp for my HT setup, I already have 4 behringer A500's in my HT ...

I said PARDON!

I have/had 2 A500's (bridged) running my mains and it was something else...

If you haven't bought the 2500 yet, consider that the A500's have RCA inputs already, and the lack of a fan is good for HT usage methinks (mine never get hot even when driven hard), and no fan noise at all.

 

[mike c]

it's an old thread

I said PARDON!

I have/had 2 A500's (bridged) running my mains and it was something else...

If you haven't bought the 2500 yet, consider that the A500's have RCA inputs already, and the lack of a fan is good for HT usage methinks (mine never get hot even when driven hard), and no fan noise at all.

too late

 

[poutanen]

too late

Good god. And people said I was nuts running 2 A500's and a Denon POA-5200.

How are you supplying those with power? I guess it's easier if you're on 220v, on 120v you'd need a couple of 20A circuits to run that stuff (at least).

And what are you running that into????? My god.

 

[WmAx]

Now I feel left out.

Let me play too.

While I don't have the sheer amptitude of mike... .... I do like to be clip proof - and let's face it - you can get great deals by purchasing pro amps instead of consumer stuff - you typically get more power and better build quality for a lower price in general.

My main 2 channel listening room is 3 way active and has 1 x Yamaha P2500S for treble and 2 x Yamaha P3500S; one for mids and one for woofers. I will be adding a P7000S or twin bridged Behringer EP2500s in a few months as it goes to a 4 way active system that will likely use twin JL W7 12s for the woofers. For cosmetic reasons, I'm really gravitating towards teh P7000S. While it's less power than a pair of Ep2500s(only about 1000 watts x 2 with a single P7000S as compared to 2000 x 2 with twin bridged EP2500s)With the impedance of the drivers I'm running currently, the approximate power available to tweeters(7 Ohms) is about 265 watts, power to mids(7 Ohms) is about 385 watts each and the woofers(8 Ohms) are getting about 350 watts each. I have only one dedicated 20A circuit to the 2 channel stereo system right now. But I will be adding another 20A circuit when I add the additional amplifier.

My computer stereo is 3 way full active with 2 x Crown XLS202D for mids and highs and a Behringer EP2500 on the woofers. With the impedance of the drivers in this setup, I'm getting 200 watts to each tweeter(8 Ohms) and about 200 watts to each midbass(8 Ohms) and about 650 watts to each woofer(4 Ohms). I have two dedicated 20A circuits run to my computer center, btw.

Images of amplifiers in my 2 channel room and of amplifiers in my computer system:

-Chris

 

[fmw]

Good god. And people said I was nuts running 2 A500's and a Denon POA-5200.

How are you supplying those with power? I guess it's easier if you're on 220v, on 120v you'd need a couple of 20A circuits to run that stuff (at least).

And what are you running that into????? My god.

It isn't an issue. They are using only a small fraction of the available power. Actually they are using more electrical power to heat the transformers in the power supplies than to drive speakers.

 

[mike c]

-Chris

why does your yammy amp look better than my yammy amp?

must be the lighting ...

seriously though, i'm thinking of simplifying the setup and instead of bridged A500's, i'd like just some stereo amps. (but i'm still saving)

poutanen,
i'm going to be using the 4 channels on the EP2500's on DIY subwoofers.
i'm hoping to have 5-7 channels left for the main speakers.