Bass radiator question

[Fuze84]

Just a quick question regarding the bass radiator on my left speaker when I play music or movies it doesn't seem to be moving at all like the radiator on the right is this normal? Im running a denon 3600h with definitive technology d17 speakers, thanks for the help!!

 

[lovinthehd]

The left vs right side radiator on the same speaker or are you comparing between the L/R speakers? If the latter could be content difference....what are you using for source material to determine?

 

[Fuze84]

I'm comparing the L/R speakers, I was playing music through you tube and put stereo on the avr?

 

[everettT]

I'm comparing the L/R speakers, I was playing music through you tube and put stereo on the avr?

What happens when you play a regular music file that you own or test tones from your reciever? Also, you really shouldn't see your cones "moving" unless when being over driven.

 

[j_garcia]

Swap them left to right speaker and see if the same thing happens. If it doesn't, then it isn't a problem. If it does, then there could be an issue with the speaker that has that behavior. Does it actually sound different, like something is missing, or does the sound seem normal?

 

[TLS Guy]

Just a quick question regarding the bass radiator on my left speaker when I play music or movies it doesn't seem to be moving at all like the radiator on the right is this normal? Im running a denon 3600h with definitive technology d17 speakers, thanks for the help!!

I think both passive radiators should move. My hunch is that the bass driver of that speaker has become disconnected, probably during shipping.

The best thing to do is to get out your multimeter and measure the resistance of both speakers at the input terminals. Since the mids and tweeter have caps in series, you will only be measuring the DC resistance of the driver and the series resistance of the inductor to the woofer. My hunch is that you are going to find an infinite resistance on that speaker.

I don't want to hear you don't have a multimeter. If you are in this hobby, that is part of the basics, so if you don't have one, go out and buy one.

 

[shadyJ]

Also make sure that the jumpers are making a solid connection between the binding posts.

 

[Fuze84]

Thanks guys for the help, iv made sure all the wiring is connected properly, I was playing music through direct mode and both passive radiator's behave exactly the same and kick in like I expected, I think I need to re run audessy because it has changed something in the other modes or maybe it just depends on the content..

 

[everettT]

Thanks guys for the help, iv made sure all the wiring is connected properly, I was playing music through direct mode and both passive radiator's behave exactly the same and kick in like I expected, I think I need to re run audessy because it has changed something in the other modes or maybe it just depends on the content..

Content is the likely answer. Never trust YouTube or similar as you're never gonna be sure of the source when something sounds off.

 

[carlosadar]

I think both passive radiators should move. My hunch is that the bass driver of that speaker has become disconnected, probably during shipping.

The best thing to do is to get out your multimeter and measure the resistance of both speakers at the input terminals. Since the mids and tweeter have caps in series, you will only be measuring the DC resistance of the driver and the series resistance of the inductor to the woofer. My hunch is that you are going to find an infinite resistance on that speaker.

I don't want to hear you don't have a multimeter. If you are in this hobby, that is part of the basics, so if you don't have one, go out and buy one.

Hello. I want to know about when I can use bass radiator passive speaker for speaker box design and how I can do it? Please tell me.

 

[TLS Guy]

Hello. I want to know about when I can use bass radiator passive speaker for speaker box design and how I can do it? Please tell me.

I guess the question is why do you want to? They are actually inferior to ported enclosures in many ways.

Essentially they are the same as ported enclosures except that bass rolls off more steeply at 36 db. per octave, rather than 24 db. per octave.

ABRs are used because the marketing department think they look good and ignorant members of the public think they have more drivers, which they don't.

The one reason for an ABR is if the port of a vented enclosure has to be too long to avoid port resonance or air turbulence in the port. (Chuff in other words.)

But like a ported enclosure the ABR has to be designed specifically for the driver/drivers involved.

So, just like a ported design, cabinet volume and port dimensions all depend on the Thiel/Small parameters of the driver/drivers involved.

Now most raw drivers have T/S parameters published so that box volume and porting can be calculated. This also tells you whether the driver is suitable for sealed or ported alignment. If there are no published specs for the driver, then you have to measure the T/S parameters yourself.

There are a number of auto cad programs that assist in design of loudspeaker enclosures. All this has to be very precise. Even small errors adversely affect sound quality.