The thing is i took a look inside and the 2A fuse is connected directly from the socket into the crossover and surely that means it would have to handle all the current the amp delivers. There is another fuse rated at 0.5A which might be just for the tweeter, this one isn’t connected directly to the sockets.
Those speakers are 70s vintage. The fuse was put there to protect the speaker from amp DC off set when power transistors fail. The 70s saw the introduction of the direct coupled amp, where the output devices are directly connected to the speakers. When an output device fails, it usually fails closed circuit, connecting the DC power supply rail voltage directly to the speaker, frying the voice coil. There was an epidemic of this during the seventies and early eighties. Gradually, and for most manufacturers too gradually, they added circuits to prevent DC off set getting to the load. There are a variety of circuits for doing that.
Now a fuse is a lousy way of coping with DC offset. For one thing fuses heat and cause dynamic thermal compression. The other thing is that if the fuse is small enough to protect the woofer, it will blow if the speaker is powered to its full potential. If the fuse is large enough to allow the speaker to be properly powered then the woofer is not protected from DC offset.
These days virtually all amps have DC offset protection. If yours does my recommendation is to remove the fuses and jump the connections, and power the speakers with an amp between 50 and 200 watts per channel, depending on preference. History is important to understand this problem.
