Amp for LSI15's under $800

[wp7456]

nice! that sounds like a very simple solution. Could the z7 run a center speaker as well at 4 ohms? It prob could seeing as its just for movies, I will prob get the LSiC.

I am guessing it puts out well over 200 wpc on the mains at 4 ohms correct?

Where did you get such a good deal? I can't find any on audiogon right now. I'll keep an eye out on ebay.

What do you think about NAD.... http://www.spearitsound.com/nad/mightlymasters.asp

good bang for the buck? might splurge and just go all out if it is truly worth it... I'll keep it for an extremely long time.

 

[WmAx]

nice! that sounds like a very simple solution. Could the z7 run a center speaker as well at 4 ohms? It prob could seeing as its just for movies, I will prob get the LSiC.

I am guessing it puts out well over 200 wpc on the mains at 4 ohms correct?

Where did you get such a good deal? I can't find any on audiogon right now. I'll keep an eye out on ebay.

What do you think about NAD.... http://www.spearitsound.com/nad/mightlymasters.asp

good bang for the buck? might splurge and just go all out if it is truly worth it... I'll keep it for an extremely long time.

Just curious: Do you have something against professional audio amps? Or are they just too ugly?

-Chris

 

[wp7456]

do you mean like industrial amps for concerts or like audiophile equipment thats twice as expensive as those NAD's?

 

[wp7456]

Okay I can snatch the LSiC on amazon for 400. The m25/m15 NED's are still a possibility, as well as the Z7, or maybe even this rotel if I can find a good deal... the RMB-1075. If I went with that last option, the 5 channel rotel amp, I would then get a nice new cheap HTR for my source. Of these options... which is the best bang for the buck? Are the NAD's worth all that money? More importantly, where can I find nice cheap deals on all this power, I have been looking on spearitsound.com a lot.

 

[zumbo]

I use an Adcom 7605. It will get you 175w X 5 @4ohm.(full bandwidth)
http://www.onecall.com/ProductDetails.aspx?id=17203

I recommend a Yamaha RX-V663, or higher, for use as a pre-pro. This way, you have an up-to-date decoding pre-pro.
http://www.yamaha.com/yec/compare/Detail.html?compitem1=567571&compitem2=567570&compitem3=5016804&CTID=5000300&VNM=LIVE&comp_items=5016804&comp_items=567570&comp_items=567571&B_compare.x=34&B_compare.y=3

If you went with a 3900, or Z7, I am certain they would power your system just fine on their on.

 

[wp7456]

If I were to bridge the 2 side channels in the 7.1 NAD M25 to my towers, I would get 320 w, then I can run 5.1 with tons of power for my mains in 2 chan music. When you bridge its supposed to cut the ohm load in half, but when the amp does the same rated pwoer at 4 or 8 ohms, does that matter?

 

[WmAx]

do you mean like industrial amps for concerts or like audiophile equipment thats twice as expensive as those NAD's?

I mean like industrial amps for concerts. Modern ones are insanely high quality. That is why I recommended the Yamaha P2500s or P3500S. Very high power, superb performance, and relatively low cost considering the power output.

I use several models of pro audio amps for very high quality home sound reproduction systems. This is coming from a guy who used to only use high end audiophile amps.

-Chris

 

[zumbo]

If I were to bridge the 2 side channels in the 7.1 NAD M25 to my towers, I would get 320 w, then I can run 5.1 with tons of power for my mains in 2 chan music. When you bridge its supposed to cut the ohm load in half, but when the amp does the same rated pwoer at 4 or 8 ohms, does that matter?

You can't bridge 4ohm speakers on that amp.

You would need a 2ohm stable pro-amp.

You are trying to hop on a the largest motorcycle and race with the pros, but you are at the mini-bike level.

I recommend you start off with a simple A/V receiver, and go from there. You are going to have enough trouble just learning how to ride the receiver.

 

[wp7456]

i forgot if someone mentioned this already but is the z7 rated for 4 ohms? Actually... Could I just go 5.1 and use my extra 2 channels on the z7 to bi wire my towers? Is that the same thing as bridging? I would take the conductor piece off between the 2 sets of speaker inputs on the tower and run 2 channels to each speaker. If that is the same thing as bridging then I will be running at 4 ohms... if not, will that still work?

 

[zumbo]

Taken from Rane Professional Audio Reference:

biamp, biamplified, or biamplification: Term used to refer to a 2-way active crossover where the audio signal is split into two paths, and using separate power amplifier channels for each driver.

BTL (bridge-tied load) Amplifiers. An amplifier configuration where the loudspeaker load is connected between the two hot outputs of two amplifiers operating in bridged amplifier mode, i.e., anti-phase, where the output of one amplifier drives the the second amplifier out of phase, or inverted, and operates at unity gain. Thus the second amplifier (usually the second channel of a two channel design) acts as a current amplifier (with inverting voltage). This doubles the output voltage (one-half from the first amplifier and one-half from the second amplifier) and theoretically produces four times the power output (double the voltage equals double the current equals four times the power). However this virtually never happens in practice since the amplifier power supply runs out of current long before four times the power is reached. Typically, amplifiers operating in bridged amplifier mode deliver twice their single-ended output power. Semiconductor audio power amplifiers use BTL configurations as a way to maximize power output from the small voltage sources found in internet appliances and automotive applications.

Yes, the Z7 is 4ohm stable for the mains.

Yes, the Z7 will let you use it's 6th and 7th channel to bi-amp the mains.

IMO, the Z7 will have no problem driving a 4ohm center channel.

No, bi-amping is not the same as bridging.

 

[wp7456]

thanks, still trying to find a good deal on it though

 

[wp7456]

Outlaw 7075

75 w rms x 7 @ 8 ohms
115 w rms x 7 @ 4 ohms

Towers: LSi15's
Center:LSiC
Rears: http://www.htd.com/in-wall-ceiling-speakers/multi-purpose/MP-W50

Give my rears 75 watts, (they are rated for 60, should i return them and upgrade?)
Give my center 115 watts.
Bi-wire the 6th and 7th channels into my towers for 230 watts each. I will then buy a cheap avr for my pre-pro. What do you think? This is cheaper than the Z7. Opinions?

Oh yeah I'm buying a ps3 for my blu ray player, just applied for their credit card for the $150 back. I will probably go this route and need to know which audio codecs the ps3 cannot read for blu-ray so I know which avr pre-pro to get. Thanks for all the help guys

 

[zumbo]

Bi-wire the 6th and 7th channels into my towers for 230 watts each.

Not gonna be 230. Your speakers are 4ohm when the top and bottom are combined. When you separate the posts, the ohm load will increase.

I have tried to tell you, you are over-thinking this whole thing.

 

[wp7456]

and what if I kept the posts together?

 

[zumbo]

You can't bi-amp, and keep the posts together.

When you add an amp to a "cheap" receiver, your system will sound as good as that "cheap" receiver. You will simply be amplifying that receiver. Does this make any sense?

 

[wp7456]

yeah it does, maybe I should buy a preamp instead, and then just lose my ability to have the best audio codecs for blu ray. (how much of a difference is this btw?) Or would it be possible to utilize the power of the avr (maybe just use 2 channels) and power 1 pair of speakers in another room?

So when the posts are separated, each set of terminals is now 8 ohms? if so, 75x2=15 watts total which isn't optimal. Maybe I could keep the posts together and put the 6th and 7th channels on the towers as well, would that be like bridging it maybe? Sorry if it's a stupid question just trying to figure out all my possibilities.

 

[wp7456]

okay maybe a 5 channel amp will be easier to figure out.

these are the specs for the Emotiva XPA-5. I am thinking 3 channels at 4 ohms ~ 400 watts to each and for the 2 rear 8 ohms I could get ~275 give or take. Now I find a quality pre-amp, or I find a quality avr pre-pro that will read the newest audio formats on blu ray. I also think I can take advantage of the avr's power for another room or two, right? The Emotiva is perfect for my price range, and now I need to find a nice avr that won't break the bank (but still isn't crap). I also need to send back those cheapo rears I have and need to find some that can take more abuse. Any suggestions?


# 200 watts RMS/channel into 8 ohms, all channels driven

* 5 channels - 8 ohm = 200 watts per channel
* 4 channels - 8 ohm = 230 watts per channel
* 3 channels - 8 ohm = 250 watts per channel
* 2 channels - 8 ohm = 275 watts per channel
* 1 channel - 8 ohm = 300 watts per channel

# 4 ohm rating:

* 5 channels - 4 ohm = 350 watts per channel
* 4 channels - 4 ohm = 375 watts per channel
* 3 channels - 4 ohm = 400 watts per channel
* 2 channels - 4 ohm = 450 watts per channel
* 1 channel - 4 ohms = 500 watts per channel

 

[cfrizz]

WP you are waaay over thinking this. We gave you the solutions on the very first page. But since you seemed to miss it the first time around...

Get the Emotiva XPA-5. This will drive a 5 channel setup of all LSI's with ease. Or any other speakers you might get. No biamping necessary, just plug & play.

Get a receiver that has all the bells & whistles that you want it to have & you are all set.

You don't have to do this all in one shot. Just focus on the main ingredients first. Receiver & 5 channel amp. Add the rest of the speakers as the money becomes available.

Do it once & do it right and enjoy for years. Will it cost more money up front YES, but you will get your moneys worth for all the years that you keep the system.

The amp can stay through ALL other upgrades you make to your system so it basically pays for itself.

Now if you are a contstant upgrader, then just buy cheap crap & be done with for the year that you keep it.

okay maybe a 5 channel amp will be easier to figure out.

these are the specs for the Emotiva XPA-5. I am thinking 3 channels at 4 ohms ~ 400 watts to each and for the 2 rear 8 ohms I could get ~275 give or take. Now I find a quality pre-amp, or I find a quality avr pre-pro that will read the newest audio formats on blu ray. I also think I can take advantage of the avr's power for another room or two, right? The Emotiva is perfect for my price range, and now I need to find a nice avr that won't break the bank (but still isn't crap). I also need to send back those cheapo rears I have and need to find some that can take more abuse. Any suggestions?


# 200 watts RMS/channel into 8 ohms, all channels driven

* 5 channels - 8 ohm = 200 watts per channel
* 4 channels - 8 ohm = 230 watts per channel
* 3 channels - 8 ohm = 250 watts per channel
* 2 channels - 8 ohm = 275 watts per channel
* 1 channel - 8 ohm = 300 watts per channel

# 4 ohm rating:

* 5 channels - 4 ohm = 350 watts per channel
* 4 channels - 4 ohm = 375 watts per channel
* 3 channels - 4 ohm = 400 watts per channel
* 2 channels - 4 ohm = 450 watts per channel
* 1 channel - 4 ohms = 500 watts per channel

 

[wp7456]

yup I am nearly 100% set on the xpa-5, will probably order tomorrow. I will more than likely get the new cheaper emo pre-pro of the 3 coming out in the next month or so. Just looking for rears atm, my sound advice near me may open back up for 2 days and they had the LSi rears last I checked.... will prob pick them up and go all out LSi. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[zumbo]

So when the posts are separated, each set of terminals is now 8 ohms? if so, 75x2=15 watts total which isn't optimal.

I can't give an honest answer, but each will be higher than 4ohm. It's not worth the trouble. At your level, it's really not worth the trouble. I have been doing this for 20 years, and I don't even worry about it. And, I have the equipment to do it. Get going with a nice piece first. Not a few pieces of $#!t.

Maybe I could keep the posts together and put the 6th and 7th channels on the towers as well, would that be like bridging it maybe? Sorry if it's a stupid question just trying to figure out all my possibilities.

Dude. Run one set of wires from either an A/V receiver, or an external amp. YOU ARE WAAAAAY OVERTHINKING THIS.

I would not spend any money on outdated equipment. Not $1. Get equipment that is current.