Advise for a HT Club combo setup

[csh]

Thanks for your detailed replies.

Somethings for me to take back
1) 12 Gauge wire
2) If going active then conductor+drain balanced audio cabling

We want to sit as far away from the screen as possible so i think we will go for the 135'' one and i have heard good things about silverticket. Plus they ship to Canada at a reasonable price and are acoustically transparent.

Unfortunately the room will be left open and the walls will likely be painted a light color. Floors will be vinyl tile, since its the basement we will do soundproofing on the ceiling. Will there be any benefit in putting anything more than drywall on the walls around?
Yes, i noticed the 5050 is 2600lm and the JVC is 3000. Any projector you recommend for my setup, i am ok with the price of JVC if another model is a better fit? The JVC also has a 20K hours lamp life compared to the epsons 3.5K

Speakers:
So i was thinking for front LCR i can do the B215XL's behind the silverticket screen.
If you see the floor plan, i have a wall on end and 2 poles on the back although not exactly behind the ear and one on the right. So i was thinking of getting 4 X 212XL and mounting them.
If thats too close then i can get 2 of the 212XL for SL and SR and then two of the ceiling models for SBL and SBR
https://www.newegg.ca/monoprice-104929/p/0S6-00G7-00083?Item=9SIA9HT3ZD2490 and

Sub:
I read that PA subs dont dig deep but i still need bass. So can i get 2 subs. One of them can be the rockville RGB and the other more of aregular HT sub just for the very low frequencies. I have a spare mission AS 1. I know its a tiny unit but maybe it is enough to supplement the big rockville or should i buy another sub.
Based on the plan do you recommend placement for the sub? the basement is unfinished so i can build cabinets/corners/run wires do whatever i wish.

Once again, thank you very much for your reply.

 

[Kingnoob]

Check out this site , or hsu for second sub.
Tell us how the Rockville works that thing looks epic I’d buy it for home theater too ...’ if I had the space

S1512DF

Discover the S1512DF sealed subwoofer. True theater sound from an American assembled home audio subwoofer. The S1512DF is a powered sealed subwoofer with 920W of continuous, DSP controlled ICEpower® and a 15" B&C Neodymium driver.

www.powersoundaudio.com

I’d get a ported sub ,

 

[zieglj01]

Sub:
One of them can be the rockville RGB and the other more of aregular HT sub just for the very low frequencies. I have a spare mission AS 1. I know its a tiny unit but maybe it is enough to supplement the big rockville or should i buy another sub.
Based on the plan do you recommend placement for the sub? the basement is unfinished so i can build cabinets/corners/run wires do whatever i wish

Stay away from budget-friendly entry level subwoofers like Rockville for that room and the small mission does not belong in that room ... go back to, and read the advice that BMXTRIX has given you.

 

[BMXTRIX]

Thanks for your detailed replies.

@csh, I'm happy to offer what I can. I will reiterate, that I would focus on getting the gear in place properly for the theater setup above all else.

The JVC is a nice model, but I might opt for the new LG HU810 instead. It is a light canon which is nice for when you have some lights on. It doesn't have the contrast of the Epson, and is similar to what the JVC will offer, but it really puts out lumens that set a benchmark. Please hit up Projector Central (.com) for a review of that model and see what it delivers. It also integrates smart features, which is a small perk. Mostly, I think it is one of the first projectors to full leverage the chips that are inside most TVs these days. So, you get better firmware, and better OS support than you do with almost any other model. Pair it with a laser light engine, and you are a step ahead.

The one consideration, and I don't think it is huge, is that lamps can be replaced. So, that Epson you asked about has a lamp that can be replaced by the end user if it fails. If the laser goes out on the JVC, or the LG, it requires a return trip to the factory for replacement, and I would expect it to be pricey. Still, at 20,000 hours, for 2 hours use a day, that's 730 hours a year, or over 20 years of use. So, the laser likely won't go before some other piece of internal electronics, like the fans, or a power supply.

Anyway, I do think that the Speakercraft will be a better home theater speaker, while I would wait on purchasing any 'club' like speakers until after you are in the space and really get a feel for how much more oomph you want from the system.

I will say that I am not a genius of the nuances between different speakers and I lean towards cheaper speakers with as good of quality as possible for in-wall stuff. Then I start asking questions for floor standing models, or just get the models that work for my budget and space and simply enjoy them.

BE AWARE OF LIGHTS!!!!!!!

I can't emphasize this enough. Lighting is, relatively speaking, super cheap up front. $20 or so per recessed fixture maybe an hour of labor. After the room is finished, triple the labor cost, or more. So, get lighting installed in zones and verify on forums (like this one) before you call it done.

I recommend that you put in 'general' lighting in several dimmable zones, then put in some specific task 'spotlighting' over the seating. This is easy, it's cheap, and it is often overlooked and then people complain because they have to turn lights on which screw up the projected image, to eat snacks or read a book. I can't tell you how awesome task lighting is. I can only say that it is awesome.

Example of directional lighting in place:

Lighting Impact On Screen Image Quality - AV Integrated

www.avintegrated.com

 

[Kingnoob]

Jbl is a top level brand on par with qsc

JBL PRX835 | 15" Three-Way Full-Range Main System with Wi-Fi

The JBL PRX835 is a full-range speaker designed for main system applications. Featuring a 15” woofer, 6.5” midrange transducer, and 1.5” compression driver powered by a 1500-watt class-D amplifier, PRX835 delivers incredible volume in a lightweight and compact form factor.

www.harmanaudio.com

line array any good?

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjk56-B-5zvAhWLvcAKHbG7C1MYABAPGgJpbQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASEuRodlUhxbKLWoM9Laa8GxUWBw&sig=AOD64_1-9uOitAP6FT_YIWyEuYv9ZzlaOg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiV3qaB-5zvAhUROs0KHf9fAc0Qwg96BAgGEEU&adurl=

Find a local pro store and audition stuff

 

[csh]

Thanks for your reply. I will look at the lighting very closely. And yes since the basement is going be finished i can place the lights and zone the way we want.
You mentioned that start with speakercraft and then add speakers to increase SPL. How will that work? Say the installer puts in 7 speakers and then we want to increase the sound. Wont it mess up with the surround speakers etc?

 

[BMXTRIX]

You mentioned that start with speakercraft and then add speakers to increase SPL. How will that work? Say the installer puts in 7 speakers and then we want to increase the sound. Wont it mess up with the surround speakers etc?

That's a good question.
You would not use the high SPL models for listening to a movie. Instead, you would run them off of Zone 2 out of the receiver. If the projector is on and you want video, then you ditch the higher quality surround sound (turn the main zone all the way down) in favor of the high SPL speakers. Crank them up through zone 2 of your receiver, run some music videos or karaoke or whatever, and party hard without worry of the speakers blowing out.

If just running audio, leave the main zone powered off, and use zone 2 exclusively for your music.

You basically would be creating two different setups. One for the party and one for the quality movie.

 

[csh]

Awesome thanks. Yeah that's a option 2BL5 XL's and a PA sub for music in Zone 2 and regular speakercraft stuff for HT.
How can i add a sub to zone 2? usually AVR's dont support subs in zone 2 right?

 

[BMXTRIX]

I would typically just run full range to the speakers and let them handle the crossover.

 

[csh]

Sorry i am a noob.
So if i connect the 2 215XL's in zone 2 and switch to zone 2, how will the speakers handle the crossover? Isnt that something that the AVR sets?

 

[lovinthehd]

Sorry i am a noob.
So if i connect the 2 215XL's in zone 2 and switch to zone 2, how will the speakers handle the crossover? Isnt that something that the AVR sets?

I was wondering that myself for the passive version, but perhaps the active version can help connect a sub (you could also use a splitter on the zone 2 pre-outs) in conjunction with using the sub's low pass filter to supplement the speakers....or a sub with an actual crossover.

 

[csh]

So how do we do this for passive PA speakers?

 

[lovinthehd]

So how do we do this for passive PA speakers?

You could use the avr's zone 2 amp terminals as long as you don't need them for their alternate use as surrounds (they generally share such). Otherwise you could use an external amp for passive speakers.

 

[csh]

The amp i am thinking of supports has 11 powered output channels and 2 sub output channels out of which 2 channel are assignable. I am happy with a 7.2 configuration

So if i use these two channels and connect the PA speakers wouldn't the speakers be wired directly to the AVR. Where do i connect the sub then?

 

[lovinthehd]

The amp i am thinking of supports has 11 powered output channels and 2 sub output channels out of which 2 channel are assignable. I am happy with a 7.2 configuration

So if i use these two channels and connect the PA speakers wouldn't the speakers be wired directly to the AVR. Where do i connect the sub then?

Depends on the sub particulars as well as the speakers being passive or active/self-powered (just going to call them active from here).

Active speakers you can use the line-level pre-outs for zone 2, and can simultaneously use them as well for the sub by using splitters to send signal to both, many subs have L/R inputs and will sum the signal to mono. Some subs have not only rca inputs but also outputs to assist in connecting other gear (and some have an actual crossover this way too). Some active speakers also have facility for a sub connection, or are intended for a sub to provide the signal for the speakers (like JBL does with LSR 305/308s and the matching 310S sub....but those speakers/sub are more for near/mid-field use, not dance party like you want).

For passive speakers you can use the amp terminals on the avr, plus the pre-outs for input to a sub that has the L/R rca inputs (pre-outs generally are always live). You could also use additional speaker wire to connect to a sub's high level inputs, if it has such (speaker wire inputs) as well as the speakers simultaneously.

I don't think any avrs have any sub pre-outs for the zones or the ability to apply bass management from the avr, so you'll need to rely on what's in the sub for that....most subs just have a low pass filter rather than also having a high pass filter (for a true crossover).

Or you could get some kickass mains and use 'em for both movies/tv/music as well as the dance parties. Something like the JTR215s don't even need subs for the dance party. I'd still have subs for general use, tho.

Good luck!

 

[BMXTRIX]

@lovinthehd has explained it pretty well.

The key is that as long as you have analog stereo outputs for zone 2, you should be able to connect a set of extra speakers. You can pick up a RCA splitter, or a RCA to balanced audio converter/splitter, which can provide a signal to not only an extra set of pro speakers designed for clubs, but matching subwoofers as well.

As long as the proper wiring is in place between the receiver and the speaker locations, you will be covered. This is why I suggest pulling 2 balanced audio cables to each location. A good installer will know what balanced audio cabling is. You should NOT overpay for this! It's well under 50 cents a foot for balanced audio cabling.

ie: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5980

So, for $150 you get enough balanced audio cabling to cover all the active speakers you may ever need.

You can also pick up audio DSPs which will do a great job of handling all of your splitting/mixing needs for the gear.

Audio DSPs aren't necessarily for the faint of heart for setting up, but they allow for mixing of different sources and you can add microphones if you wanted to (for karaoke) and full audio management. eBay has a ton of used models available for well under $100 which used to cost $2,000+ brand new...

Tesiraforte VI Biamp | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Tesiraforte VI Biamp at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

The model above has 12 inputs and 8 outputs which allows for a ton of flexibility and is industry leading technology.
Learning curve is a bit steep, as I said, on these types of products. But, they perform very well and have a ton and a half of flexibility.