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Added Vinyl- looking for input, suggestions, monkey jokes, etc.

  • Thread starter Thread starter adwilk
  • Start date Start date
highfigh said:
The alloy is the reason the holes are close together and as long as it wasn't hammered in place.........

Yes- people were handy, back then. Shop classes, magazines like Popular Science, Popular Mechanics and no stigma about people who work with their hands made it a good time to be alive, especially for inquisitive kids and adults who wanted to do things for themselves.

I had a customer who owned a Thorens, but I don't remember the model. It had a wooden 16" arm, which I may still have. I replaced it when he could no longer buy a replacement stylus and found a nice SME to mount on a new board.
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Your post just supported my earlier point that most people cannot disconnect the automatic return mechanism. Just saying.
 
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3db said:
Your post just supported my earlier point that most people cannot disconnect the automatic return mechanism. Just saying.
Click to expand...

If the platter won't come off, the tonearm can be disconnected from underneath. The result is the same- no tension on the tonearm.

If someone doesn't know which end of a screwdriver to pound on, they deserve whatever they get. :D
 
3db said:
Your post just supported my earlier point that most people cannot disconnect the automatic return mechanism. Just saying.
Click to expand...

None if this is difficult. It requires only a basic skill set. I could have done this job age 7 years old, no trouble. I did much more complicated tasks back then.

Likely the platter will just pull off. The holes are at the outer edge and these are lightweight turntables. A little rap will shift it in a hurry. The only platters I have ever had bind are actually on the 301s. There are no holes in the turntable and there would be no room for puller jaws under the rim, so the tap method for those is the only solution and it works like a charm.
 
TLS Guy said:
None if this is difficult. It requires only a basic skill set. I could have done this job age 7 years old, no trouble. I did much more complicated tasks back then.

Likely the platter will just pull off. The holes are at the outer edge and these are lightweight turntables. A little rap will shift it in a hurry. The only platters I have ever had bind are actually on the 301s. There are no holes in the turntable and there would be no room for puller jaws under the rim, so the tap method for those is the only solution and it works like a charm.
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This page from the service manual shows four small holes around the center- those are for using a puller to remove the platter, if necessary. The three smaller holes near the rim are for the transport screws and if this table came with the box, packing, owner's manual and all parts & accessories, those would have been in the box, each having a red or yellow tag to explain their purpose.

http://dual.pytalhost.eu/626s/626s-15.jpg
 
Ok, gentlemen... I was able to successfully detach the dust cover from the hinges.


.. removed the mat, the platter, the little c-clamp and the contraption labeled #5. Put it all back together. It tracks beautifully on the stock setting. Plays records all the way to the end without a hitch. One problem. No sound now. I can hear it on the table, but its not sending a signal to the amp.. Any idea what could have caused this? I can post pictures of the table dismantled and put back together if anybody is interested...

It doesn't seem that this mod would affect any of that, right? Ideas? To be fair, I only tried an older integrated, but it did work the night before with the other technics table.
 
adwilk said:
Ok, gentlemen... I was able to successfully detach the dust cover from the hinges.


.. removed the mat, the platter, the little c-clamp and the contraption labeled #5. Put it all back together. It tracks beautifully on the stock setting. Plays records all the way to the end without a hitch. One problem. No sound now. I can hear it on the table, but its not sending a signal to the amp.. Any idea what could have caused this? I can post pictures of the table dismantled and put back together if anybody is interested...

It doesn't seem that this mod would affect any of that, right? Ideas? To be fair, I only tried an older integrated, but it did work the night before with the other technics table.
Click to expand...

If you removed the cartridge, as Dr Mark recommended, make sure the terminal strip at the rear of the cartridge holder went into the receptacle. It can go under, or into the slot. It's also possible that the audio cable detached while you had it open.
 
highfigh said:
If you removed the cartridge, as Dr Mark recommended, make sure the terminal strip at the rear of the cartridge holder went into the receptacle. It can go under, or into the slot. It's also possible that the audio cable detached while you had it open.
Click to expand...

If you have a meter this problem will be easy to find.

Start at the cartridge and follow it back until you find where electrical continuity is lost. I also suspect you have installed the cartridge carrier incorrectly. This would be the most likely cause.
 
Well.. I didn't remove the cartridge- I really didn't see any reason to other than possible damage due to handling it. I mostly just wanted to see what I was getting in to. The mat and platter came off very easily. I spent most of my time looking for that little c-clamp once it decided to go flying off. I'll check the audio cable- it seems weird that both channels would get disconnected from it sitting on a table. There really wasn't much force of any kind involved. I know its an older table, but it really was very clean and in great shape. Hopefully this is an easy fix.
 
It's a good looking table. Thanks for the pic's and for playing along. Good luck with it. I just had mine apart the other day and I couldn't make it work right until the buzz wore off. :D
 
adwilk said:
Well.. I didn't remove the cartridge- I really didn't see any reason to other than possible damage due to handling it. I mostly just wanted to see what I was getting in to. The mat and platter came off very easily. I spent most of my time looking for that little c-clamp once it decided to go flying off. I'll check the audio cable- it seems weird that both channels would get disconnected from it sitting on a table. There really wasn't much force of any kind involved. I know its an older table, but it really was very clean and in great shape. Hopefully this is an easy fix.
Click to expand...

In looking at the manual, I saw that it has a muting circuit that is activated when the reject mechanism is operating.

Did you press the Start button? If not, do that when you play an album and see if you hear the music through the system.

If that doesn't help, you'll need to return the cam gear to its normal position and cycle the mechanism. Once it returns the tonearm to its rest, immobilize the mechanism and remove the cam.
 
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highfigh said:
In looking at the manual, I saw that it has a muting circuit that is activated when the reject mechanism is operating.

Did you press the Start button? If not, do that when you play an album and see if you hear the music through the system.

If that doesn't help, you'll need to return the cam gear to its normal position and cycle the mechanism. Once it returns the tonearm to its rest, immobilize the mechanism and remove the cam.
Click to expand...

I see in the circuits there is a shoring circuit for left and right channels. These switches must be in the closed positions. Your advice should get them to the open position and he will be back in business.

This is a nice looking turntable and with getting all this hardware the stylus in the groove does not need to be moving, this unit will sound excellent, and will be well worth a cartridge upgrade.
 
adwilk said:
Where would I find these?
Click to expand...

First, try using the Start button (I don't remember if it's was mandatory on this model- their semi-automatic tables only needed for the tonearm to be moved from the tonearm rest to make the motor start).

If this works, we're done. If not, raise the tonearm with the cuing lever and move the arm toward the album- if the motor starts (and I think it will), returning the levers to their home position should make the audio work.

If that doesn't work, the worst choice would be to clean & lube the cam and return it to original operation. This would cause the muting circuit to work the way it was designed- to eliminate a thump when the tonearm lifts off from the album. I called it "worst" because it can affect the sonic performance, but it would still be better than most automatic turntables.

http://dual.pytalhost.eu/626s/626s-16.jpg


Next, would be to disable the muting circuit. If you can solder, you can do this. In the link below, you'll see two photos- the bottom one shows the circuit board with the muting circuit near the lower right (it has one corner as an angle and has a metal shield over it. At the bottom center, it shows the audio cables coming up and bending, to go to this board.
 
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adwilk said:
Where would I find these?
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I can't tell for sure on the manual. However it should be straight forward. You can either trace the wiring from the base of the PU arm, or form the signal wiring exciting the plinth.

The switch will be at that connection, between the two. It can't be anywhere else.
 
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