150W RMS subwoofer needs a plate amp

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Dasunddas

Enthusiast
Again, my modest 1650 H/K receiver is rated at 95W @ 2-channel and I'm powering two Klipsch F-10s/2-horns 2-6.5" midrange/bass combo two-way. Originally I was going to buy this/build that though I'm reevaluating my stance.

Now I'm turning frugal. I don't want a HT rarely watch movies and when I do they aren't blu-ray for the most part. Mostly music old jazz, classical, couple of crooners and a few torch singers. I shouldn't need that much subwoofer to match/blend w/current receiver/speakers. Plus the price of this build will be right at what I paid for the other components/set of speakers.

So, as it stands I have a combined potential of 190W. I'm figuring, heaven help me, that this 150W RMS 12" sub would be more than enough for my listening style. Guesstamating aside the only two plate amps in that range are the Dayton 100W and the Yung SD-200 sans boost.

As is I play the receiver around -40db w/-20db as fairly loud on occasions, so I think 150W RMS sub would more than match my system and listening style nicely. The Dayton lists THD as 0.2% whilst the Jung is 1.0%. I've read to not bet the farm on THD percentages, but I am striving for the best sound betwixt the twain.

One on hand I max out at 100 rms and the other I'd set the sub/plate amp volume 3/4 to allow only 150 rms as not to damage the woofer. There's only 22 clams difference in the price if the build/audio quality is comparable. Otherwise I'd gladly settle on 100w just fine.

Any and all help w/expertise will be surely appreciated on this budget build.

ETA: Doesn't matter to me that one is 100w and the other 200w. I'd think that 100w pushing a 12" sub would easily best two 6.5" woofers sharing midrange /bass duties along w/horns at 190W on tap. Then again if I'm wrong it won't be last time, yet that's why I ask those far more knowledgeable.
 
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Dasunddas

Enthusiast
"RMS Power per channel at 4 ohms 75 Watt"

Is that correct? Am I able to use both the channels to come up w/150WRMS?

"and bridgeable for 150watts"

I suppose that's what bridgeable refers unto. I'm lost on most of the tech lingo.
 
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ImcLoud

ImcLoud

Audioholic Ninja
yes , on the amp it say + - bridged which is one from each channel, so it makes that amp 150x1 at 8 ohms...
 
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Dasunddas

Enthusiast
Thanks, but the speaker is 4 ohms, so how does that work?

I apologize for my ignorance.

ETA: I see the same spkr comes in 4 or 8 ohms. Not much difference except I was working w/1.13 ft.³ size box. I've no idea what, Sealed F3 pertains unto.
Besides that and the box for the 8 ohn having twice the volume are there any other factors save being able to use the APA 150?

4 ohm
Sealed Volume 1.13 ft.³
Sealed F3 72 Hz

8 ohm
Sealed Volume 2.42 ft.³
Sealed F3 55 Hz
 
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ImcLoud

ImcLoud

Audioholic Ninja
I would go with the 8ohm speaker, and the larger box for sure, a sealed 1ft single driver sub will not be so great.. an f3 of 72 hz, woa...
 
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Dasunddas

Enthusiast
I did a search and found this explaining that sealed boxes usually come in best around 50.

I suppose I need to snoop for a cabinet that comes close to 2.42 ft.³. The APA 150 appears to be quite a better set-up than the plates. I couldn't complain about a clean signal at the same RMS as the sub. I'd prefer $158 shipped new on the slow boat to buying used though I'm sure it's in good shape.

This quest started after perusing subs and running across this turd for 199.99. Mahogany & 600 W. Woo-hoo! I decided to see what I could put together for the same price, yet much better audio quality. I take it you don't think too highly of the Visaton. Is it the speaker more than the 150 RMS?

ETA: Speaker, amp, RCA cable, lb of polyfill and either 2 or 3 ft.³ prefab sealed cabinet will set me back $380-$400. No doubt the amp is of higher quality, yet the original bargain 100/200 plate amp, 4 ohm speaker, fill and a 1.25 carpeted truck box was about $240. I think the extra money will be well spent.
 
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ImcLoud

ImcLoud

Audioholic Ninja
I did a search and found this explaining that sealed boxes usually come in best around 50.

I suppose I need to snoop for a cabinet that comes close to 2.42 ft.³. The APA 150 appears to be quite a better set-up than the plates. I couldn't complain about a clean signal at the same RMS as the sub. I'd prefer $158 shipped new on the slow boat to buying used though I'm sure it's in good shape.

This quest started after perusing subs and running across this turd for 199.99. Mahogany & 600 W. Woo-hoo! I decided to see what I could put together for the same price, yet much better audio quality. I take it you don't think too highly of the Visaton. Is it the speaker more than the 150 RMS?
There are decent subs out there for around $200... Amazon.com: BIC America F12 12-Inch 475-Watt Front Firing Powered Subwoofer: Electronics or Amazon.com: Polk Audio PSW505 12-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black): Electronics If you are building a sub them 2 are going to be hard to beat.. IMO to get better with diy you will need to spend around $400 or so...
 
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Dasunddas

Enthusiast
See my ETA above. Using the APA 150 w/150 RMS 12" woofer sounds like a good set-up to me as I'm not a HT guy. That would be plenty of power for my system and the ATA coupled w/sealed box should be musically pleasant.
 
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Dasunddas

Enthusiast
Thanks, but I don't think I'm a F12 kinda guy. I was trying to come up w/sealed 12" for two bills. As mentioned w/apa 150 route I'm looking at assembly for 4 bills. I can throw one more on top of that and snag a SVS SB1000 along w/5 yr warranty. Even going w/truck box cabinet, 200 w amp plate, discount 12" woofer and a lb of poly is pushing 250. Twenty-five percent over projection is a no good.

I feel as Newman trying to work a deal on the nickel deposit in Michigan. If only I could place me mitts on that fifth mail truck during mother's day.
 

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