Marantz 7011 with no sound output when the source is an HDMI input

[PENG]

Hi!

Good news!

I already had done everything you told me, everything I read in the user and technical manuals, in the forums, and ... still no audio when the input source is one of the HDMI inputs!

Today I decided to do a last test with the Marantz 7011 before I pack it to send it to repair. So, very early in the morning, after another restart (one more) as you and the manuals say, no audio from HDMI sources yet! I decided to go through all the AVR menu and turn off everything in the menu that I didn't need and ... at last, something I hadn’t tried before to repair it, to reconfigure the Audissey again (using the included microphone) and ... it started to send audio to the speakers from the HDMI inputs as source, again!!!

After that I did a lot of tests, tried all the HDMI inputs and tried the ARC from the TV (LG65E6V) and, as much as I can say, its working with all of them including the TV audio by ARC (I tested it with Netflix playing in the TV)!

Conclusion:

Problem: For some reason that I don’t know, the AVR stopped sending audio to the speakers when the input source was any one of the HDMI inputs, including ARC from the TV. The last different thing that I remember related with the Marantz 7011 was to notice, at night around two weeks ago, that it was doing a software update. At the time I was using the AVR only in the mode pass-through (powered off) so I didn’t notice nothing different at the time. Only a few days after I noticed that there was no audio from the speakers when the selected source was one of the HDMI inputs. The video image was good!

Solution: The usual restarts as the manual says, redo the installation of the AVR, including the Audissey part of it (it only worked after the new Audissey reinstallation)! The strange thing is that, even with the factory restarts and all, the AVR didn´t start to let the audio go from an HDMI input to an HDMI output or the speakers, only after I mess with the Audissey configuration again!

Thank you for your support!

Vitor Almeida

I dare say there might have been something wrong with the factory reset process after your last update for whatever reason. I suggested that you do the reset several times, not just once. That didn't make sense to me either but I read on another forum where people reported that it worked only after many factory resets.

It has nothing to do with re-running Audyssey, though it is a good idea to repeat it anyway, after whatever the last update might have messed other things up.

ARC is a tricky one to set up, I learnt my lesson on that too, but now that it is working, you should try adding back the other inputs you had before to make sure they are all working again. If not, then there has to be still something wrong. Marantz only offers a 3 year warranty, so the SR7011, being a 2015 model, you shouldn't wait too long.

 

[Vitor Almeida]

Hi!
As I wrote before I did lots of factory resets and nothing.
If it was a bad reset before the AVR would had played after the last one and it didn't. It only played after the Audissey configuration! So I can't agree with you when you write: "It has nothing to do with re-running Audyssey"!

I agree with you about the ARC configuration! It's tricky!

Everything is working well now, all the inputs, all the outputs, everything I can remember of!
Regards
V. Almeida

 

[lovinthehd]

I've seen recommendations of doing 5 resets in a row, and apparently came from D&M themselves....glad it worked out finally! (and hope it doesn't come back!)

 

[PENG]

Hi!
"So I can't agree with you when you write: "It has nothing to do with re-running Audyssey"!

We can disagree, sometimes it is a good thing. I am 99% (not 100%) sure re-running Audyssey has nothing do with fixing whatever the real issue(s) was/were. Yes I understood you got it working right after that re-running Audyssey, but to me that could have been just a coincident, you might have done after things around the same time just prior. As HD said, glad to know you got it working now, it would have been a pain to have to ship it out and wait for its return. On the other hand, please do put everything back to where they were before when it was working, just to make sure there is nothing hidden.

 

[Vitor Almeida]

Hi!

It wasn’t a disagreement, it was an exchange of ideas! Thanks for it!
When I ask for help in a forum I use to put the solution if I got one somewhere else, that's why I wrote about it.
I tried everything with the Marantz. I disconnected all the HDMI input and output cables, except TV (to be able to see the menu), I kept it disconnected around 24h before connect it to the power outlet and do a new restart and... nothing! Another synthome of the problem was that the Marantz AVR app in the mobile (Android) didn’t show up the “AVR Info” screen, it was empty. Now it is normal!

Today in the morning I powered it on and did what I told before: turn off everything in the menu and let only what I really need. Nothing! No sound! Then I decided to reconfigure the Audissey and ... audio in the speakers again!

Today I didn't any new restart before the Audissey reconfiguration!

Maybe it wasn’t the Audissey part but, logically, I can’t think about anything else.

I already connected all the HDMI input and output cables, I reconfigured all the Audissey again and the Marantz is as before the fault: Working normally by what I can test till now! I hope it continues like now!

Bye!
Thanks to all!

Vitor Almeida

 

[Vitor Almeida]

Hi!

As I wrote in https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/2450130-official-marantz-2016-nr-1607-sr-5011-6011-7011-owner-s-thread-158.html#post57075886 I had problems with my Marantz SR7011. I thought that it was now working properly but it is not. At least as I think it should and as it worked before and it must now!

Problem 1: When I change the HDMI input in a control sometimes it takes time to send the sound to the speakers (tens of seconds).

Problem 2: Now I was testing it and notice that the blu-ray reader (Sony BDP-S770), configured as Auto or yCbCr, when connected to any HDMI input of the 7011 and this one to the TV (LG 65E6V) sends an image that is pinkish and there is no sound! All other HDMI sources (TV box, PS4, Media reader) are working normally.

If I configure the blu-ray reader to output the image signal as RGB the image in the TV is normal but no sound!

If I connect the blu-ray reader directly to the TV with the same cable and any configuration of the output image (auto/yCbCr or RGB) the image and the sound are normal!

I tried other HDMI cables also, same results.

This also happens when the 7011 is off and in pass-through mode, pinkish image and no sound from the blu-ray reader.

I tried all the menu configurations I could remember in the 7011 and the blu-ray reader and … same result.

I did a restart of the blu-ray reader also, no difference.

Any suggestions?
Best regards
Vitor Almeida

 

[PENG]

I can only suggest the same thing I suggested before. That is, do the factory reset multiple times, as HD cited, say 5 times in a row. If the problem persists, send it back to Marantz for warranty repair or replacement. If you wait too long you are going to miss the warranty (if not already) that is only for 3 years.

 

[Vitor Almeida]

Hello, hello!
8 years later, the Marantz 7011 has another problem: When the input signal is PCM it doesn't decode it, and there is no sound. For example, when the TV box (that is connected to the input CBL/SAT (HDMI 1)) and the AVR are on, there is no sound from the speakers that are connected to the AVR. If I turn off the AVR, the TV has sound (the AVR works as a path through). If I connect the Blu-ray reader (Panasonic 820) to the same input, or another, and I play the Hans Zimmer blu-ray disc with Atmos chosen in the disc menu, I have sound; if I choose LPCM in the disc menu, there is no sound. After lots of tests, reconfigurations, resets of the TV box, ..., Copilot says it is a HDMI chip in the AVR HDMI board, in the PCM way that is different from the ATMOS and other complex formats way, is with problems. Now I am trying to get the schemas to see what chip it is (a "little one" with more than 100 "legs" I bet) and if that chip can be replaced. .
Next step before I touch the hardware: To do a factory reset of the Marantz (and all the Audissey config again).
An equipment with this price tag has only a "normal" life of 8 years before obsolescence? Isn't it too short?

 

[lovinthehd]

Thanks for the followup after so long! Have you tried a soft reset (unplugging the avr from power for a bit)? I'd do that before going full reset. What tv box are you using?

 

[TLS Guy]

Hello, hello!
8 years later, the Marantz 7011 has another problem: When the input signal is PCM it doesn't decode it, and there is no sound. For example, when the TV box (that is connected to the input CBL/SAT (HDMI 1)) and the AVR are on, there is no sound from the speakers that are connected to the AVR. If I turn off the AVR, the TV has sound (the AVR works as a path through). If I connect the Blu-ray reader (Panasonic 820) to the same input, or another, and I play the Hans Zimmer blu-ray disc with Atmos chosen in the disc menu, I have sound; if I choose LPCM in the disc menu, there is no sound. After lots of tests, reconfigurations, resets of the TV box, ..., Copilot says it is a HDMI chip in the AVR HDMI board, in the PCM way that is different from the ATMOS and other complex formats way, is with problems. Now I am trying to get the schemas to see what chip it is (a "little one" with more than 100 "legs" I bet) and if that chip can be replaced. .
Next step before I touch the hardware: To do a factory reset of the Marantz (and all the Audissey config again).
An equipment with this price tag has only a "normal" life of 8 years before obsolescence? Isn't it too short?

It sounds as if you know what the problem is. The problem is that IC is likely surface mounted by a robot using hot air soldering.

I would definitely try a full reset back to factory defaults an redo the set up. Just note all your settings first.

I think increased complexity and added part count has decreased reliability. My older AVPs are still fine, but my last Atmos AVP was done for in five years the next one was in for warranty service in about a month. So I bought a top of the line AV10 built in Japan and so far so good and a significant upgrade.

So, I'm suspicious of the Atmos units with high complexity and my experience would indicate you have to go to the top end of the food chain so to speak. If that is so, then this hobby is very expensive.

Just one other thought. It seems your problem is on the HDMI board. Is there a chance you may be drawing more power from the HDMI board than you should, resulting in your failure? The commonest situation that causes that is powering active and hybrid HDMI cables without a voltage inserter.

 

[Vitor Almeida]

Thanks for the followup after so long! Have you tried a soft reset (unplugging the avr from power for a bit)? I'd do that before going full reset. What tv box are you using?

Hi!
I did all the resets I know. Today I got the Service manual, and I am going to look at it.
The TV box is from Vodafone the model is a Vodafone TV 3 and it uses Android 11 (and all was working well 3 ou 4 weeks ago). And, as I wrote before, with the Blu-ray reader it happens the same when I change the output signal from ATMOS to PCM (LPCM). And I also tried different HDMI inputs with the same result.

 

[Vitor Almeida]

It sounds as if you know what the problem is. The problem is that IC is likely surface mounted by a robot using hot air soldering.

I would definitely try a full reset back to factory defaults an redo the set up. Just note all your settings first.

I think increased complexity and added part count has decreased reliability. My older AVPs are still fine, but my last Atmos AVP was done for in five years the next one was in for warranty service in about a month. So I bought a top of the line AV10 built in Japan and so far so good and a significant upgrade.

So, I'm suspicious of the Atmos units with high complexity and my experience would indicate you have to go to the top end of the food chain so to speak. If that is so, then this hobby is very expensive.

Just one other thought. It seems your problem is on the HDMI board. Is there a chance you may be drawing more power from the HDMI board than you should, resulting in your failure? The commonest situation that causes that is powering active and hybrid HDMI cables without a voltage inserter.

Hi!
Thank you for your answer.
How could I be draining too much power from the HDMI board? I use normal HDMI cables to connect the AVR to the TV box, Blu-ray reader, ... and the AVR to the TV.
And yes, it is an expensive hobby. If I need to change the AVR, I think I will go for a Yamaha or a Sony (my old Sony STR-DB925 is still working ).

 

[TLS Guy]

Hi!
Thank you for your answer.
How could I be draining too much power from the HDMI board? I use normal HDMI cables to connect the AVR to the TV box, Blu-ray reader, ... and the AVR to the TV.
And yes, it is an expensive hobby. If I need to change the AVR, I think I will go for a Yamaha or a Sony (my old Sony STR-DB925 is still working ).

You won't unless the cable is active or hybrid.

However, your problem could be that your HDMI cable is too long. How long is it? Over 10 to 12 feet you need to go active, or hybrid and with your receiver and use a voltage inserter.

If you have no cable issue, then a new receiver is your best option. We have had issues with people blowing HDMI boards using powered cables and not realizing they need a voltage inserter. Some of the latest units have HDMI outputs that will power active cables, like my Marantz AV 10 does.

Marantz (Sound United) has been on tough times until the recent buyout from Masimo by Harmon. I think things will look up now. However, I think you need to look for units built in Japan. I had problems with two in a row built in Vietnam.

I think more than likely it is new receiver time for you. Yamaha have a reputation for reliability. The new top line units from Marantz I think are excellent, but top dollar. I am really pleased with my AV 10. My 7705 and 7706 both had premature failures.

 

[lovinthehd]

Hi!
I did all the resets I know. Today I got the Service manual, and I am going to look at it.
The TV box is from Vodafone the model is a Vodafone TV 3 and it uses Android 11 (and all was working well 3 ou 4 weeks ago).

Does your Vodafone use lpcm as output? Can you change that? Did you check your hdmi passthru settings and that still works the same?

 

[Vitor Almeida]

It uses LPCM or Auto, no other choice. Till 2 or 3 weeks ago it was working and I didn't change anything. The pass-through works fine, like before.

 

[Vitor Almeida]

You won't unless the cable is active or hybrid.

However, your problem could be that your HDMI cable is too long. How long is it? Over 10 to 12 feet you need to go active, or hybrid and with your receiver and use a voltage inserter.

If you have no cable issue, then a new receiver is your best option. We have had issues with people blowing HDMI boards using powered cables and not realizing they need a voltage inserter. Some of the latest units have HDMI outputs that will power active cables, like my Marantz AV 10 does.

Marantz (Sound United) has been on tough times until the recent buyout from Masimo by Harmon. I think things will look up now. However, I think you need to look for units built in Japan. I had problems with two in a row built in Vietnam.

I think more than likely it is new receiver time for you. Yamaha have a reputation for reliability. The new top line units from Marantz I think are excellent, but top dollar. I am really pleased with my AV 10. My 7705 and 7706 both had premature failures.

Well, the HDMI cables are the same than before, when it was working well. They have around 1 to 1.5 meters (~4 or 5 feet).
I have a Pioneer SC-LX73 that had, and still has, a problem with a chip in the HDMI board. A new board was around $500 (~8 years ago) so I bought the Marantz around 8 years ago and the Pioneer went to the closet. It wasn't at my plans to change the Marantz, I do not have more space in the closet. , but ... Next time, if I buy a new AVR, I will return to a Sony (I have an old STR-DB925 that is still working well in my home office) or try an Yamaha.
AV receivers are lasting less and less these days. It almost feels like planned obsolescence. The chips being used seem to have a service life of only 5 to 10 years. They may not be “programmed to fail”, as far as I can tell, but they are components with a very short lifespan, which makes it look like “planned obsolescence” — although proving it is another story. In my case, this is the second AVR that has died in roughly eight years.
I am going to open the Pioneer and the Marantz and see if I can do the exchange of the chips (I have the Pioneer HDMI chip in the closet too), but first I will do some more tests with the Marantz, see what chips it uses and if it is possible to buy it or them. I already have the service manual of the Marantz but soldering this surface mount chips with the hot gun isn't easy for me, but I will try it after some tests and if there is no other solution. I can think about a solution like the one in http://amazon.es/-/en/FeinTech-VAX01202-Extractor-Modern-Receiver/dp/B08TX473Z8/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=75xt7&content-id=amzn1.sym.3f66cdae-3ade-49f2-a62b-bfd62faa8d2e:amzn1.symc.752cde0b-d2ce-4cce-9121-769ea438869e&pf_rd_p=3f66cdae-3ade-49f2-a62b-bfd62faa8d2e&pf_rd_r=HTSKCDNF35XBGVPGFEPF&pd_rd_wg=vSZRx&pd_rd_r=b3706c23-692a-429c-998d-4f06b7b69ea0&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_
AV receivers are lasting less and less these days.

 

[TLS Guy]

Well, the HDMI cables are the same than before, when it was working well. They have around 1 to 1.5 meters (~4 or 5 feet).
I have a Pioneer SC-LX73 that had, and still has, a problem with a chip in the HDMI board. A new board was around $500 (~8 years ago) so I bought the Marantz around 8 years ago and the Pioneer went to the closet. It wasn't at my plans to change the Marantz, I do not have more space in the closet. , but ... Next time, if I buy a new AVR, I will return to a Sony (I have an old STR-DB925 that is still working well in my home office) or try an Yamaha.
AV receivers are lasting less and less these days. It almost feels like planned obsolescence. The chips being used seem to have a service life of only 5 to 10 years. They may not be “programmed to fail”, as far as I can tell, but they are components with a very short lifespan, which makes it look like “planned obsolescence” — although proving it is another story. In my case, this is the second AVR that has died in roughly eight years.
I am going to open the Pioneer and the Marantz and see if I can do the exchange of the chips (I have the Pioneer HDMI chip in the closet too), but first I will do some more tests with the Marantz, see what chips it uses and if it is possible to buy it or them. I already have the service manual of the Marantz but soldering this surface mount chips with the hot gun isn't easy for me, but I will try it after some tests and if there is no other solution. I can think about a solution like the one in http://amazon.es/-/en/FeinTech-VAX01202-Extractor-Modern-Receiver/dp/B08TX473Z8/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=75xt7&content-id=amzn1.sym.3f66cdae-3ade-49f2-a62b-bfd62faa8d2e:amzn1.symc.752cde0b-d2ce-4cce-9121-769ea438869e&pf_rd_p=3f66cdae-3ade-49f2-a62b-bfd62faa8d2e&pf_rd_r=HTSKCDNF35XBGVPGFEPF&pd_rd_wg=vSZRx&pd_rd_r=b3706c23-692a-429c-998d-4f06b7b69ea0&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_
AV receivers are lasting less and less these days.

You are absolutely correct. I do not think this is intentional, but due to creating unrealistic expectations among the public by the marketing and advertising of these units.

The problem is not intentional obsolescence, but gratuitous complexity.

So you have far more channels than most rooms can handle, all crammed in with increasingly smaller and complex processing chips. So heat becomes a bigger issue here, as chip size decreases. Then you cram an insane number of amps in with all this fragile technology, all powered from a totally inadequate power supply. Current designs are insane and basically fraud.

My AV10 is larger than any receiver, contains no amps, and has a big enough power supply it weighs in at 35 lb. I can justify it, as I have a room I designed and built custom to actually give this complex technology a chance of actually working. For the cost of the AV 10, it had better have a good long life.

The solution is to damp down customer expectations with a bit of honesty.

What is required in most homes that want a good AV experience, is a good screen and 2.1 and 3.1 systems, which could be made to give better SQ, reliability and better fidelity. But no, those are rare if not an endangered species, and cost more than the monstrous absurdities.

Lastly, a move to putting power amps in speakers instead of receivers, would be a major move forward.

Unless things change, I fear what you are experiencing will only get worse.

 

[lovinthehd]

It uses LPCM or Auto, no other choice. Till 2 or 3 weeks ago it was working and I didn't change anything. The pass-through works fine, like before.

Does sound like something has fried (I take it auto doesn't help?). Changing pass-thru settings also no help? I still use several avrs, a few older than your Marantz fwiw. Is it well ventilated?

 

[TLS Guy]

Does sound like something has fried (I take it auto doesn't help?). Changing pass-thru settings also no help? I still use several avrs, a few older than your Marantz fwiw. Is it well ventilated?

It seems that his issue had been very prevalent with the 7011. HDMI board failures are not only common, but the rule with those. They were out of parts by at least 2021. The theory of the failures is thought to be internal crowding and heat issues.

Some have attempted board repair but as far as I can tell no success, as the board has to be reflashed.

I honestly think his only option is recycling and a replacement. I fear we are going to see a lot more of this across a wide range of Atmos receivers. The issue is overcrowding and heat as a result. As a result of my recent experience, I have a couple of fans on low pulling air through my AV 10 and it stays very close to the ambient temperature. The A 10 has been on all evening and the top case is only 6 degrees F above ambient temperature.

I think AVRs and AVPs should all have thermostatically controlled fans like computers do. Both my DAW and HTPC have installed variable speed thermostatically controlled fans. That should be standard on AVRs and AVPs in my opinion.

 

[lovinthehd]

It seems that his issue had been very prevalent with the 7011. HDMI board failures are not only common, but the rule with those. They were out of parts by at least 2021. The theory of the failures is thought to be internal crowding and heat issues.

Some have attempted board repair but as far as I can tell no success, as the board has to be reflashed.

I honestly think his only option is recycling and a replacement. I fear we are going to see a lot more of this across a wide range of Atmos receivers. The issue is overcrowding and heat as a result. As a result of my recent experience, I have a couple of fans on low pulling air through my AV 10 and it stays very close to the ambient temperature. The A 10 has been on all evening and the top case is only 6 degrees F above ambient temperature.

I think AVRs and AVPs should all have thermostatically controlled fans like computers do. Both my DAW and HTPC have installed variable speed thermostatically controlled fans. That should be standard on AVRs and AVPs in my opinion.

Wow you don't like avrs? What a revelation. You liked your Marantz versions for years....whether or not the amps were in the same box they weren't much different. Blaming country of origin, meh....british electronics have been shitty for many many years, just look at their automotive applications. Makes bike mechanics look absolutely brilliant.