I feel like a monster

slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Just recently accepted a job offer with Dow Corning and will be looking at houses/apartments with my fiancée over spring break this year. Kinda hoping to get a house and possibly actually have a theater room for once. Would be a nice change from what I've had so far. Being able to run everything I got at the same time for the first time, I'm assuming will more/less blow me away.
Curious, what will you be doing for Dow? What city?
 
monkish54

monkish54

Audioholic General
How much did you pay for the T-2?

What were (are) you studying? :D
 
Soccerkid830

Soccerkid830

Full Audioholic
Curious, what will you be doing for Dow? What city?
I'm going to be working in their catalyst group in Midland, MI.

monkish54 said:
How much did you pay for the T-2?

What were (are) you studying? :D
$2500 for everything, including the sub amps. After calling and talking to a few of the RBH folks, the T-2's I got were prototypes with beryllium drivers that never came to market..? Similar to the T-2/R's but, from what I understand, slightly above those performance-wise.

I'm studying chemical engineering, and will be done this upcoming May.


monkish54 said:
Least you have a big box of Kleenex, for those teary moments. :p ;) :D
I worked for Kimberly-Clark for 9 months and got free product all the time. Including toilet paper, paper towel, kleenex, etc. This was one of the stacks I made not even halfway through my time with them.... :D I ended up with two more stacks like that, of all Cottonelle TP. That stuff ain't cheap ya know, I probably had a few hundred bucks in toilet paper alone when I finished working there!
 
monkish54

monkish54

Audioholic General
$2500 for everything, including the sub amps.
WOW. Now that's a deal!!

I'm studying chemical engineering, and will be done this upcoming May.
That's awesome!! Congrats!! :D

That stuff ain't cheap ya know, I probably had a few hundred bucks in toilet paper alone when I finished working there!
Talk about getting a good deal on ****! :D :p
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
I'm going to be working in their catalyst group in Midland, MI.



$2500 for everything, including the sub amps. After calling and talking to a few of the RBH folks, the T-2's I got were prototypes with beryllium drivers that never came to market..? Similar to the T-2/R's but, from what I understand, slightly above those performance-wise.

I'm studying chemical engineering, and will be done this upcoming May.




I worked for Kimberly-Clark for 9 months and got free product all the time. Including toilet paper, paper towel, kleenex, etc. This was one of the stacks I made not even halfway through my time with them.... :D I ended up with two more stacks like that, of all Cottonelle TP. That stuff ain't cheap ya know, I probably had a few hundred bucks in toilet paper alone when I finished working there!
Cool, congrats on finishing up on a challenging degree.

I'm a chemist by profession in the semiconductor industry. Been out of school 10 years now and have just started back in electronics courses and still working full time.
 
Soccerkid830

Soccerkid830

Full Audioholic
Cool, congrats on finishing up on a challenging degree.

I'm a chemist by profession in the semiconductor industry. Been out of school 10 years now and have just started back in electronics courses and still working full time.

Thanks, it's had its ups and downs. This year has been a lot tougher/more time consuming than the past three years...

Have you ever worked with HSC then? They have a decent presence there near Midland as well from what I heard.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Issue with some sort of slight buzzing coming from it again, same as what happened out of the box when I got them back in July. Guy I talked to from RBH told me to rip it apart and take a look at the voicecoil. Looks fine to me. Now I wait for a replacement.

Every time I call them I get great CS. Would like to know why this has happened twice though.
I assume you just heard the buzz from a single driver when you put your ear to it.

The thing that strikes me is that you got the magnet off the chassis. How easy was it to get the screws out?

Normally a magnet is screwed hard to the chassis with bolts that lock and can never be undone. You don't need to remove a magnet to rebuild a speaker.

Now if the screws were to loosen even a little the magnet would move causing gap rub. Gap rub will not usually leave any sign of damage on the voice coil. Even trivial gap rub causes a nasty buzz.

That design looks strange to me, and unless it took damn near an explosive charge to get the magnet off the chassis, that is likely the cause of your problem.

I have never removed a magnet from a speaker chassis, and it would not be possible on any drivers I have owned.

May be the Chinese have a lot left to learn about putting drivers together.
 
Soccerkid830

Soccerkid830

Full Audioholic
I assume you just heard the buzz from a single driver when you put your ear to it.

The thing that strikes me is that you got the magnet off the chassis. How easy was it to get the screws out?

Normally a magnet is screwed hard to the chassis with bolts that lock and can never be undone. You don't need to remove a magnet to rebuild a speaker.

Now if the screws were to loosen even a little the magnet would move causing gap rub. Gap rub will not usually leave any sign of damage on the voice coil. Even trivial gap rub causes a nasty buzz.

That design looks strange to me, and unless it took damn near an explosive charge to get the magnet off the chassis, that is likely the cause of your problem.

I have never removed a magnet from a speaker chassis, and it would not be possible on any drivers I have owned.

May be the Chinese have a lot left to learn about putting drivers together.
Yes sir, just one of the drivers was making the sound. There were four screws holding the pieces together. They were by no means easy to get off, and then even once the screws were out, it was still not easy to separate the two; I took a hammer to it and beat it off. There was some sort of glue between the magnet chassis as well, like an epoxy sort.


The thing is, like I told the guys over the phone... If I held my hand up to the surround and applied light pressure, the buzzing sound would go away. That made me think something just wasn't glued together very well. I didn't have to push hard at all for the sound to go away.
Would that bit of info help in any way for you? I'm interested in knowing what happened as well. If I still had the driver, I'd be willing to ship it to you for diagnosis if you'd be willing to troubleshoot it. :D Or maybe once I get the new one sent out to me, I can send you the one still in the speaker... Whatcha think? :D

I was hoping there was just something like hair or paper somehow stuck between the cone and the phase plug that was chuffing, but negatory on that one.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Yes sir, just one of the drivers was making the sound. There were four screws holding the pieces together. They were by no means easy to get off, and then even once the screws were out, it was still not easy to separate the two; I took a hammer to it and beat it off. There was some sort of glue between the magnet chassis as well, like an epoxy sort.


The thing is, like I told the guys over the phone... If I held my hand up to the surround and applied light pressure, the buzzing sound would go away. That made me think something just wasn't glued together very well. I didn't have to push hard at all for the sound to go away.
Would that bit of info help in any way for you? I'm interested in knowing what happened as well. If I still had the driver, I'd be willing to ship it to you for diagnosis if you'd be willing to troubleshoot it. :D Or maybe once I get the new one sent out to me, I can send you the one still in the speaker... Whatcha think? :D

I was hoping there was just something like hair or paper somehow stuck between the cone and the phase plug that was chuffing, but negatory on that one.
You have just described classic gap rub. Since you had to hammer the magnet off I doubt the magnet moved, so I have to assume the rear suspensions are of poor quality and prone to sag. This is a common problem with poor materials. That is why I only use high quality European cone drivers.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Thanks, it's had its ups and downs. This year has been a lot tougher/more time consuming than the past three years...

Have you ever worked with HSC then? They have a decent presence there near Midland as well from what I heard.
HSC, nope.

I'm in Austin, really a hotbed for semiconductors, games, solar panels, and technology. At least 2-3 solar panel plants in town, and at least 5 semiconductor plants in town.

Also home to Rythmik subs :cool:

Also, growing really fast into a beer / brewery mecca. We are up to about 30 breweries, brewpubs, cideries, in town. Quickly approaching the likes of San Diego or Portland in the number of breweries. Then, about 1.5 hours away, you get to the TX wine country with probably another 30 wineries too that have some top-notch products.
 
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Soccerkid830

Soccerkid830

Full Audioholic
You have just described classic gap rub. Since you had to hammer the magnet off I doubt the magnet moved, so I have to assume the rear suspensions are of poor quality and prone to sag. This is a common problem with poor materials. That is why I only use high quality European cone drivers.
So is it something that I may have done to damage it on my end? I'm just trying to figure out how it happened and if it is avoidable.


slipperybidness said:
HSC, nope.

I'm in Austin, really a hotbed for semiconductors, games, solar panels, and technology. At least 2-3 solar panel plants in town, and at least 5 semiconductor plants in town.

Also home to Rythmik subs :cool:

Also, growing really fast into a beer / brewery mecca. We are up to about 30 breweries, brewpubs, cideries, in town. Quickly approaching the likes of San Diego or Portland in the number of breweries. Then, about 1.5 hours away, you get to the TX wine country with probably another 30 wineries too that have some top-notch products.
That's pretty neat stuff.

We have a microbrewery here where my school is and they make pretty good stuff. They also make pop for those of us not of age yet ;), which is also good.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
So is it something that I may have done to damage it on my end? I'm just trying to figure out how it happened and if it is avoidable.
I doubt you had a hand in it. Suspension sag, is a well known problem in drivers.

I doubt you had a hand in it. I don't know the Qts of those drivers, but high Qt drivers are more prone this problem as the suspensions are softer.

I have heard systems from that company, and I have to say I not like them. To me they sound like sloppy high Q drivers, but I have not measured them.

The only possible thing that you might do to affect it is have a dirty dusty smoky atmosphere. Those drivers have phase cones, and so the gap is exposed. Cigarette goo can cause the problem, but I doubt you smoke.

Now you know you have this problem, the only thing you can do to help prevent it from occurring is to remove the drivers every six months and rotate them 180 degrees. Thus gravitational force is reduced on a regular basis.

Basically, this is not your fault. As this has happened twice, this is a design/manufacture problem.
 
Soccerkid830

Soccerkid830

Full Audioholic
I doubt you had a hand in it. Suspension sag, is a well known problem in drivers.

I doubt you had a hand in it. I don't know the Qts of those drivers, but high Qt drivers are more prone this problem as the suspensions are softer.

I have heard systems from that company, and I have to say I not like them. To me they sound like sloppy high Q drivers, but I have not measured them.

The only possible thing that you might do to affect it is have a dirty dusty smoky atmosphere. Those drivers have phase cones, and so the gap is exposed. Cigarette goo can cause the problem, but I doubt you smoke.

Now you know you have this problem, the only thing you can do to help prevent it from occurring is to remove the drivers every six months and rotate them 180 degrees. Thus gravitational force is reduced on a regular basis.

Basically, this is not your fault. As this has happened twice, this is a design/manufacture problem.
Thanks for the advice, I'll try to give that a shot and see what happens.

And no, I don't smoke so you're right there. We don't have central air/heating though so the dust does build up a little more than usual but I doubt that'd be enough. We only got those radiators along the floor with hot water running through the pipes.
 

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