Adam says not too much grease ...

Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I'm installing the drivers for the Sound Blaster Audigy sound card that Adam had me get but didn't help me understand.
So I get just the drivers downloaded for Sound Blaster Audigy ... but what baffles me is that only the right channel would play for like 45 seconds and then all the sudden both channels.
The left channel got really weak so I used my big brain to switch it over to a coaxial digital out instead of analog L&R. It's cool Adam, I got it covered. It took some looking around to find where to do that. Why does everything have to be so difficult?

Actually I really should thank Adam because he helped me score this sound card for like 20 bucks and it's a huge improvement over the computer's on board integrated deal. At the time he just couldn't comprehend what an undertaking it would be for me to install and operate it. Even though technotardation has made this an uphill battle for me I have enjoyed the improved audio provided by the sound card and even now that it failed I'm still able to use it.

I guess tomorrow I might put in a different keyboard. Some of the letters are wearing off on this one.
 
T

tcarcio

Audioholic General
What you're not understanding is that I have no idea what an ssd is. That's what I was trying to get across in my prior response. I don't know what you are talking about. Think of me in terms of a dog trying to understand investment banking.
You know,SSD, Thats when you have a drunk night in college and the next morning you wake up with some strang girl and you have to go to the free clinic ang get a shot. :)
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Does that make you an iJedi?
It makes me an iHole for now until I can afford about half of what Greg has thrown away.

This is being typed on a cordless keyboard that I hooked up to my laptop. I can switch the USB rec'r from laptop to desktop easily enough.

I got that thing for a buck. :)
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Is that why it took you like 20 minutes to finish it? :D
LOL! :D ... no, you who you Who's on Line peeping Tom. I ate cottage cheese, almonds and pear.
Plus I looked that thing up and read some reviews on it.

I dragged out my Harman Kardon Sound Sticks II to sell to the kid that owns the butcher shop. I don't think I will be going back to using those anytime soon. They have been stored away for too long and in Condoland that is the hammer. I hope he's interested.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I think I have a bad cap in the Sound Sticks II. The left channel is weak.

See the bulge?



 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I think that some others here might be a bit disappointed. :D
Between that and the thread title Rick is inconsolable which is unfortunate because this is right up his alley. I looked up some cheap caps at PE but their tolerance was =/-20%. I think these two caps are for the L&R channels and I think I want them matched.

Besides those 2 caps there is one more 1000uF 16v cap and a 1000uF 25v cap. I'm thinking I should replace all 4 and call it good. I just need a heads up on which kind and from where.

Here's the caps in question for those who missed it on the last page.

 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
I looked up some cheap caps at PE but their tolerance was =/-20%. I think these two caps are for the L&R channels and I think I want them matched.
After doing a google search for 1000 µF 25v, most of the results were radial electrolytic caps with ±20% tolerance. That may the industry standard.

Can you see a tolerance number printed on the caps on your board?

If you have an LC meter, order 10 and choose the closest ones. They are cheap.
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Alex, you must be bored out of your skull. :eek: :D Unless you're going to rip the kid off, you're going to end up trading that system for something like $30-50 worth of meat. Is it worth spending $10+ on caps and all of your time to get it at peak condition? You can buy those things on eBay for not much money. Just sayin'. :)
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Alex, you must be bored out of your skull. :eek: :D Unless you're going to rip the kid off, you're going to end up trading that system for something like $30-50 worth of meat. Is it worth spending $10+ on caps and all of your time to get it at peak condition? You can buy those things on eBay for not much money. Just sayin'. :)
The used ones on Amazon are $89 plus shipping. I wouldn't buy these used off eBay. I think 80 bucks worth of meat is totally in order. He might not be interested but I like these enough to fix and give away and yes, I'm pretty bored but I like doing this kind of stuff.

After doing a google search for 1000 µF 25v, most of the results were radial electrolytic caps with ±20% tolerance. That may the industry standard.

Can you see a tolerance number printed on the caps on your board?

If you have an LC meter, order 10 and choose the closest ones. They are cheap.
I can't see a tolerance # and I don't have an LC meter. I didn't want to but I'll probably just take the drive out to my local electronics shop. I've been trying to avoid that because it is surrounded by good bakeries. For that matter I might just walk over to Radio Shack.

Do you know if upgradiig the 16v ones to 25v is allowed? Would it maybe help keep the same thing from happening again?
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
I think 80 bucks worth of meat is totally in order.
Got anything particular in mind? No, I'm not being crude - I'm just curious. :)

Btw, do you remember the left channel not being weak when you bought them?
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Got anything particular in mind? No, I'm not being crude - I'm just curious. :)
tube steak :eek: :D

I'm pretty big on chicken breast these days and he has this pretty basic natural turkey breast cold cuts that I eat a lot of. New York strip every so often as it's lean. Rib eyes are off the menu for now.

Btw, do you remember the left channel not being weak when you bought them?
The first Sound Sticks II I bought had a glitchy sub volume control so these are the second pair. HK was good about paying for the shipping on the return. This pair were good for over a year before I started having to make balance adjustments to compensate. Then of course Mantown speakers got more and more happening but I held onto these and today I got the idea to test them out. The electronics is in the see through bass module so I could see right in. A while ago Rick sent me a link about caps like that so this time I knew what to look for.
 
Last edited:
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
Do you know if upgrading the 16v ones to 25v is allowed? Would it maybe help keep the same thing from happening again?
Another question or two: The 1000 µF cap I'm after, is it called micro Farad and could it also be written as 0.1 Farads? Also maybe you could explain what I think is called a nano Farad (nF?) and how it's written in numbers.

I guess it's safe to say that I can't easily replace these with a different type of capacitor (non electrolytic).
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Another question or two: The 1000 µF cap I'm after, is it called micro Farad and could it also be written as 0.1 Farads? Also maybe you could explain what I think is called a nano Farad (nF?) and how it's written in numbers.
This list of SI prefixes can come in pretty handy.

A micro Farad is one-millionth of a Farad, so 1000 µF is actually 0.001 F. A nano Farad is 1000 times smaller than a micro Farad.
 
Rickster71

Rickster71

Audioholic Spartan
Between that and the thread title Rick is inconsolable which is unfortunate because this is right up his alley. I looked up some cheap caps at PE but their tolerance was =/-20%. I think these two caps are for the L&R channels and I think I want them matched.

Besides those 2 caps there is one more 1000uF 16v cap and a 1000uF 25v cap. I'm thinking I should replace all 4 and call it good. I just need a heads up on which kind and from where.
If you want to do it right away, go to an electronic repair place and ask if they will sell you four caps. If you bring the board they will get you the correct ones. Or try rat shack.

In this particular case, I'd buy the same voltages and temps. Unless marked otherwise get 20%, and the same type aluminum electrolytic.

If by chance they don't have the exact values..It's OK to use 25v in place of the 16v. It OK to go higher in both values (not lower) as long as the case size is the same. In those values it will be.

Make a drawing or take picture of what cap values go where. Pay close attention to the direction that stripe on the case is facing and face the new ones the same way. Apply just enough heat to melt the solder, being careful not to melt the traces off the board.:D
Be careful out there.
 

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