Beating a dead horse HDMI Cables

[SVT CAMR]

Here is the situation. I am an electrical contractor. I want to stock my van with the basics for a flat screen install. There are a few different HDMI cables. I do not want to have 3 different cables in my van.

I want a cable that is in wall rated (CL2) and I want it to be high speed category 2. I also want it to be set up for Ethernet. I would like to stock a 3ft, 6ft, 10ft, and a 15 ft'er.

1) is 24 gauge fine for the 15 footer
2) am I fine with 28 Awg for the 3, 6, and 10 footer?
3) if the equipment is not set up for Ethernet will an HDMI cable with Ethernet work and is it a good Idea to spend the couple of dollars it will cost to have all my cable capable of Ethernet?

So that's it. I want to order a bunch of stock and just want to make sure I'm not overlooking anything that I'm taking for granted. These are real basic installation with hidden cables that only require 15 feet max length cables.

Thanks for your help.

 

[MDS]

Here is the situation. I am an electrical contractor. I want to stock my van with the basics for a flat screen install. There are a few different HDMI cables. I do not want to have 3 different cables in my van.

I want a cable that is in wall rated (CL2) and I want it to be high speed category 2. I also want it to be set up for Ethernet. I would like to stock a 3ft, 6ft, 10ft, and a 15 ft'er.

1) is 24 gauge fine for the 15 footer
2) am I fine with 28 Awg for the 3, 6, and 10 footer?
3) if the equipment is not set up for Ethernet will an HDMI cable with Ethernet work and is it a good Idea to spend the couple of dollars it will cost to have all my cable capable of Ethernet?

So that's it. I want to order a bunch of stock and just want to make sure I'm not overlooking anything that I'm taking for granted. These are real basic installation with hidden cables that only require 15 feet max length cables.

Thanks for your help.

Yes to all of the above. If you connect such a cable to a device that doesn't support any of the advanced features like ARC or Ethernet, it will work fine because if it doesn't know about those features it won't be transmitting the signals to enable them.

 

[BMXTRIX]

I will say that I tend to rail against contractors wiring for home theater because of the quality of the installs.

Why not wire it fully to the TV with a few runs of CAT-5 as well as the HDMI cable and perhaps a piece of coax? Even if today it is a basic installation, at some point they may add surround sound, or want additional features which are not currently part of the setup, and then they can't get behind the walls to run them without tearing up drywall.

Obviously, if it is a straight shot down 3 feet, then no big deal.

But ANY installation where you are travelling across a stud of any sort should include a full A/V installation including HDMI, RG-6, three pieces of CAT cabling... Or, one cat-5, one HDMI, and a piece of 1.25" flexible conduit.

It's great that you can run the cabling for a client, but you can earn a bit more if you properly wire and then they won't be upset when they need that added capability which you never even offerred to them. If you OFFER a complete run of HDMI, Cat, and conduit for an extra 100 bucks or so, and they turn you down, then they need it, at least it isn't your fault for not giving them that option in the first place.

I'm not sure if any HDMI device is using ethernet over HDMI at this time.

Thin cable can be fine for short distances, but cheaper cables are cheaper and can be more prone to damage, especially at the heads where it connects to the main cable. There should always be some sort of redundant plan in place in case a cable does not work as expected.

 

[PHANofPHUNK]

Monoprice.com should be your friend.

 

[TLS Guy]

I will say that I tend to rail against contractors wiring for home theater because of the quality of the installs.

Why not wire it fully to the TV with a few runs of CAT-5 as well as the HDMI cable and perhaps a piece of coax? Even if today it is a basic installation, at some point they may add surround sound, or want additional features which are not currently part of the setup, and then they can't get behind the walls to run them without tearing up drywall.

Obviously, if it is a straight shot down 3 feet, then no big deal.

But ANY installation where you are travelling across a stud of any sort should include a full A/V installation including HDMI, RG-6, three pieces of CAT cabling... Or, one cat-5, one HDMI, and a piece of 1.25" flexible conduit.

It's great that you can run the cabling for a client, but you can earn a bit more if you properly wire and then they won't be upset when they need that added capability which you never even offerred to them. If you OFFER a complete run of HDMI, Cat, and conduit for an extra 100 bucks or so, and they turn you down, then they need it, at least it isn't your fault for not giving them that option in the first place.

I'm not sure if any HDMI device is using ethernet over HDMI at this time.

Thin cable can be fine for short distances, but cheaper cables are cheaper and can be more prone to damage, especially at the heads where it connects to the main cable. There should always be some sort of redundant plan in place in case a cable does not work as expected.

To the OP electrician. You have just been given the advice you need.

Never ever do an AV install without running the cables in conduit. That is rule one through ten at least!

Use good quality cables, and remember all HDMI cables are relatively frail. Basically there are two many connections to a small connector, and so having to change HDMI cables is not rare or uncommon at all. So you must run conduit just on that account, never mind changing and developing technology.

 

[SVT CAMR]

I will say that I tend to rail against contractors wiring for home theater because of the quality of the installs.

Why not wire it fully to the TV with a few runs of CAT-5 as well as the HDMI cable and perhaps a piece of coax? Even if today it is a basic installation, at some point they may add surround sound, or want additional features which are not currently part of the setup, and then they can't get behind the walls to run them without tearing up drywall.

Obviously, if it is a straight shot down 3 feet, then no big deal.

But ANY installation where you are travelling across a stud of any sort should include a full A/V installation including HDMI, RG-6, three pieces of CAT cabling... Or, one cat-5, one HDMI, and a piece of 1.25" flexible conduit.

It's great that you can run the cabling for a client, but you can earn a bit more if you properly wire and then they won't be upset when they need that added capability which you never even offerred to them. If you OFFER a complete run of HDMI, Cat, and conduit for an extra 100 bucks or so, and they turn you down, then they need it, at least it isn't your fault for not giving them that option in the first place.

I'm not sure if any HDMI device is using ethernet over HDMI at this time.

Thin cable can be fine for short distances, but cheaper cables are cheaper and can be more prone to damage, especially at the heads where it connects to the main cable. There should always be some sort of redundant plan in place in case a cable does not work as expected.

After reading your post I will say I did not know how to take it. Then I read it again and will say I could not agree more. It seems as though alot of people have jumped on the wagon with these installs and do not look to the future for the technology to change or have any future expansion in mind. I do consult with the client before quoting the job.

The installs I do are basic with no damage hidden wire installs with equipment directly below the flat screen panel. Your 100% right when referring to a clients needs for possible future expansion. If your going to go through the trouble to have walls opened up running a cat 5 cable along with other cables is a must! A raceway would be best for this.

We are all about the conduit here. Our residential electrical installations are in EMT for all houses here in the chicago land area. (we do not use romex) This installation will not require EMT because of the fact the equipment will be directly below the flat panel and there will be no walls opened up.

I was looking into the future by using a HDMI cable with ethernet. It was really the only thing I could look at on this one. I figured for a extra couple dollars they will not need to buy cables for long while. I will also be using a wall plate where the cables can pass through for a finished look.

Please do not assume all electrical contractors are hacks because they do an occasional flat screen install. On the other hand your right some people have no business doing the install. Especially the ones without licenses that will run 120 volt power. There are a ton of them on craigslist. I'm sure there a some good ones too.

I understand the questions I ask here were amateur but I asked them with my clients best interest in mind. My audio fascination started in the 80's when I was a DJ and it just comes natural for me to hook up equipment. I really enjoy it. It is not just about the money if that makes any sense.

I definitely have much to learn. This why I come here and ask the most basic questions. Thank you for all your responses.

 

[BMXTRIX]

Please take my initial response as my general feeling when I hear that someone other than an A/V technician ran the A/V wiring.

It would be the same feeling you would have when you would hear that the homeowner had all the original electrical work done by someone they found on Craigslist.

Dang, you think - this is gonna suck.

There is no reason why an electrical contractor can't do it right, they just tend not to. It's excellent that you are here asking the same questions that other newbie A/V guys ask all the time. Those are good questions, and they are fair questions.

For my bit, I run 120 all the time when doing A/V installs, but I tend to run things about 5 feet behind a wall with romex, within code. Stepping much outside that comfort zone puts me and my company in peril so I just avoid it.

I encourage you to continue to ask questions about A/V and as you run into clients who need A/V work, it would be good for you to expand your depth on the subject, and/or pair up with an A/V installer who can really help you guys to shine.

But, for the smaller jobs, having someone with the proper depth and knowledge to do it properly is the only way to go. Good luck!

 

[RainMan]

I use central vacuum conduit for running my cables . It's fire rated and the cost is cheap as far as I'm concerned . Cables slide threw it very well as opposed to that wire loom looking stuff I see contractors putting in homes .
Lots of room ,but I keep my bends down to 22.5 degrees just to be safe

 

[RainMan]

I can't figure out how to edit posts here?

Sorry I meant to say the maximum angle I use is 45 degrees ,not 22.5

 

[its phillip]

You only have an hour or so to edit your post after posting it

 

[RainMan]

You only have an hour or so to edit your post after posting it

Ok I tried right away but couldn't do it . I'm using an iPad ,maybe that's why?

Ok this time the edit window was there ? I have no idea why it never came up yesterday?