JL-F113 power consumption

B

Beatmatcher247

Full Audioholic
Anyone have any idea how much power these things draw when you have them in "on" but no signal going to them? I don't use the auto on feature because I have to turn it up so loud to get it to trigger... My electricity bills are crazy high, they must draw a significant amount of power even when you aren't rocking out for my bills to be so high. I've started to manually turn them on and off and will see what difference that makes.
 
its phillip

its phillip

Audioholic Ninja
I recommend buying a kill a watt to find out :)

They're only ~$20 or so.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Anyone have any idea how much power these things draw when you have them in "on" but no signal going to them? I don't use the auto on feature because I have to turn it up so loud to get it to trigger... My electricity bills are crazy high, they must draw a significant amount of power even when you aren't rocking out for my bills to be so high. I've started to manually turn them on and off and will see what difference that makes.
You'd be at a max of a 1kwh. That's the maximum the sub can take. I doubt the sub is causing high electric bills. Your AC/Heater, Water/Heater and Fridge take up far more energy than a home theater system.
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
You'd be at a max of a 1kwh. That's the maximum the sub can take. I doubt the sub is causing high electric bills. Your AC/Heater, Water/Heater and Fridge take up far more energy than a home theater system.
I agree that it's probably not the sub, but I believe that the max on the F113 is 2.5kW. If a kwh costs $0.10 (cheaper than it is here), then that would be $6/day at max power.

I also agree with Phillip - a Kill A Watt meter can come in handy. If you have a power conditioner that shows amps and volts, you can use that, too (that's what I do).
 
H

Hocky

Full Audioholic
Anyone have any idea how much power these things draw when you have them in "on" but no signal going to them? I don't use the auto on feature because I have to turn it up so loud to get it to trigger... My electricity bills are crazy high, they must draw a significant amount of power even when you aren't rocking out for my bills to be so high. I've started to manually turn them on and off and will see what difference that makes.
Have you tried raising the level of the subwoofer in your processor and turning it down on the subwoofer? Should help resolve the situation. Auto-on works fine for me with an AV7005 and JL F212 - pretty similar combos.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
I agree that it's probably not the sub, but I believe that the max on the F113 is 2.5kW.
It appears it is 2.5kW that is very short term peak power though. In most situations he will rarely hit that kind of power usage on the sub.

OK I get it he's been listening to that hip hop. :D In this case sell said F113 and acquire a JTR or Danley sub for greater efficiency.
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
If you setup your sub properly you should be able use auto on without any issues...

Try turning your subwoofer output on the reciever/preamp UP and turn the volume/gain on the subwoofer down.... You can use your SPL meter to keep things in check when doing this....

You need more signal power going to the sub to get it to turn on when needed.
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Have you tried raising the level of the subwoofer in your processor and turning it down on the subwoofer? Should help resolve the situation. Auto-on works fine for me with an AV7005 and JL F212 - pretty similar combos.
If you setup your sub properly you should be able use auto on without any issues...

Try turning your subwoofer output on the reciever / preamp UP and turn the volume/gain on the subwoofer down.... You can use your SPL meter to keep things in check when doing this....
Yep, agreed. I wish that I would have thought of mentioning that.
 
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