HELP WITH MY BUILD.. RE xxx or TC lms-r

lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Bracing is more difficult but not overly so IMO. I disagree that subs don't need cross bracing, because even though the resonances are out of the passband, pressure based vibrations aren't. Not many people build critically damped subs.

Tuned to 15hz, let's say

9 cu ft
5.3" x 8.5" x 55" slot port
14.5hz 2nd order high pass filter

Will do about
115.7db at 23hz (driver excursion limited)
115db @ 18hz (vent velocity limited)
108db @ 15hz (vent velocity limited)
107.5db @ 13.5hz (vent velocity limited)


1st port resonance is at 122hz. A 60hz crossover point is nessesary to keep it out of the sub's passband.
Attempting to do louder than that may produce vent compression and chuffing.

If OP has mains which are comfortable down to 35hz or so with high output, it may work.

The passive radiators will allow a higher crossover point because there is no vent resonance. Although I recommend a 6.5 inch box earlier, this time for comparision's sake I will also use an equivalent 9 cu ft box for the passive radiators (which will still be smaller because there is no port) to tune it to 15hz. In retrospect I really don't remember WHY i used a smaller box in the first place... I must have had a reason.

9 cu ft
3 APR15 + 1200 grams added mass
15hz high pass filter

Will do
115.7db at 23hz (driver excursion limited)
116.5db at 18hz (driver excursion limited)
113db at 15hz (PR excursion limited)
109.5db at 13.5hz (PR excursion limited)

I never said the vented box won't perform. Dollar for dollar it may be a better solution. BUt I do think the PR box will have stronger infrasonics.
I am not against cross bracing a sub. One picture dispells that. If you've seen any recent cabinet you know I brace for tornadoes. It's cheap and free so definitely do it.

Nor am I for the Slot Port approach. I prefer P-Rs for Subs and plan to use one in my next sub build. It is simpler construction, there is no concern for port compression or vent air velocity and the box is much smaller.

Honestly if you have the funds build the P-R sub.

If size is not a concern then you might look into a JTR or Danley Sub. They are far more efficient and can get a lot of volume. Those things get loud enough for outdoor concert venues. They can easily handle a home theater or even a real theater.

Here are a pair of PR's that will work for what you want to do...
They will work with the LMS nicely....
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/classifieds-speakers-subwoofers/45137-exodus-audio-18-passive-radiators.html

That is the way I would go...
Those are great, but before you pull the trigger get an estimate on construction cost and compare it to the commercial options.
 
F

frankie2075

Audioholic Intern
ik i seen those subs danley and jtr i think there going to be out of my price range but i was thinking of it... there prob excatly what im looking for!!! ed told me i should just go with the 650 sub its a sealed box with 2 of there 13in subs.. and they have it in a diy kit for 1200.. all this is kinda advance for me what u guys talking about im deff learning alot.. im still waiting for ed to get back to me to let me kno how the lms is modeling up. i told him to spec a box for that driver.. to bad niether of you guys live close. or teach a class about sub building ;). what about the submersive subs?
 
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lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Submersives are very nice....

I have one that is for sale the HP version with the bigger amp, its in the classified section here - I went with a DIY... for my bedroom.
It's a shameless plug, but it's a phenomenal sub too. Unless you really want to start a new hobby and enjoy manual labor I don't think building your own sub is a good idea. I love DIY audio and never plan to buy a commercial audio product other than a receiver again, but you really have to enjoy building things to make it worth your time.

If you do like building things or just simply want to give it a go. I'll help you. You can certainly get a great sub out of nearly any good driver.
 
F

frankie2075

Audioholic Intern
im deff into diy because ill never buy another computer again cause i build my own.. so ik the feeling but for some reason im lacking confidence with the sub building.. idk if i making it more difficult then what it really is.. where are you from?
 
F

frankie2075

Audioholic Intern
Driver : LMS-R 15"
Vas : 122.6
Qts : 0.45
Fs : 23.60
SPL : 86.90
--
Project by : Frank
Project for : frank
--
Number of drivers : 1
Box type : Closed
Box size : 8.000 ft^3


Relative
Freq Gain Phase SPL
[Hz] [dB] [deg] [dB]
10.00 -19.36 143.80 67.54
15.00 -13.09 127.99 73.81
20.00 -9.16 113.08 77.74
25.00 -6.58 99.72 80.32
30.00 -4.85 88.18 82.05
35.00 -3.68 78.44 83.22
40.00 -2.85 70.28 84.05
45.00 -2.27 63.45 84.63
50.00 -1.84 57.72 85.06
55.00 -1.52 52.86 85.38
60.00 -1.27 48.72 85.63
65.00 -1.08 45.15 85.82
70.00 -0.93 42.05 85.97
75.00 -0.81 39.34 86.09
80.00 -0.71 36.94 86.19
85.00 -0.63 34.82 86.27
90.00 -0.56 32.92 86.34
95.00 -0.50 31.22 86.40
100.00 -0.45 29.68 86.45
 
F

frankie2075

Audioholic Intern
1W at 1M.. i did it with winisd.. not really sure what this means but how does it look an perform?
 

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