As crossovers age...

TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Which is worse? Having the woofer-to-mid crossover too close to the mid-to-tweeter crossover, or having the mid-to-tweeter crossover so high that the midrange break up modes are audible.

I've heard similar problems in B&W 2-ways using the Kevlar midwoofer, where the crossover was at 4000 Hz. In my opinion that is way to high for a 6½" driver no matter what its made of. If they choose a different tweeter capable of being crossed lower, say 2 to 2.5 kHz, this would not have been a problem.
Either is no good. At the very high end like this you have to have everything right.

If you are going to crossover at 4 kHz it means using some type of bend driver, of which the Jordan Watts module was the first example, and still one of the best examples.

Ted Jordan demonstrated with that driver, that you can control break up modes even in a metal cone. The driver is free if break up spikes and has a response to 20 kHz. However it obviously is not a pistonic driver and that was never the intention. Controlled flexing of the cone was the design parameter as it is in the B & W midrange driver.

If you don't want to use a bend driver, then in my view for a high end speaker you have to design an active speaker, or you can't rank it in the high end any longer.

To be honest this latter approach is probably the correct answer now, as amp modules and active crossover can be manufactured as cheaply, in fact more cheaply than a high end active crossover. With an active crossover you can easily set the crossover points to 200 Hz or less. I did this with my monitors from 1984, the active design allowed for a crossover of 180 Hz and then you can put the next crossover in the 2 to 3 kHz range quite easily.
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
If the 801 N is as bad as you describe, then there is something wrong. What are you driving them with. I suspect a speaker/amp interface issue here. But I would check the crossovers.
How bad is subjective. They are no where near the problem with thre Series 2. They are worse than the unEQ's Paradigm Studio 40's. At moderate volume they just sound "forward", but at higher volumes they are harsh.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
How bad is subjective. They are no where near the problem with thre Series 2. They are worse than the unEQ's Paradigm Studio 40's. At moderate volume they just sound "forward", but at higher volumes they are harsh.
I would put big money on your amp running out of gas and not suitable for those very difficult to drive speakers.
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
Do you know what the previous owner did to them?
Detatched the Zoible (sp), moved one of the crossover components... not sure what else.

It may be fixable. I am aware of someone who owned an older pair of large B&W 3-ways (it looked similar to this].
Those are 801's; though I can't tell series by sight (I think the options are "80", "II", and "III"

I can ask if there is an alternative crossover for the 801 series 2 model.
It's worth finding out. I'm getting tempted to pull the top off them, shove a bookshelf I like on it (say my PSB 400i's) and use an external crossover to split the sound between the 801 base and the PSB bookshelves.

It might actually be a pretty awesome speaker if I don't get hung up with where the 801's passive crossover does its modifications to LF. I *really* wish I were better at crossovers than I am. It would make my life better.

The 801N, I'd just put up for sale before playing with. It's too much money.

Stiffer cones, such as metal or kevlar fiber, are known to have prominently loud break up noise. Softer cones, such as paper or polypropylene, often roll off enough so that their break up modes are much quieter.
Those Kevlar cones don't seem stiff. They don't move in unison to light pressure, but rather flex.

The crossover designer must find out what frequencies are too high for a given midrange or midwoofer driver to smoothly reproduce, and cross over to the tweeter at a frequency low enough to filter out that noise. There are a variety of ways to deal with this, as your Paradigms seem to demonstrate.
But on what was an ($8k? $10k?) speaker from such a major manufacturer: you'd think that'd be addressed.

Not to ask a newb question: but is there any way the amplifier could be a problem here? I don't here what I think of as "clipping", but that could be my lack of experience.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
It's worth finding out. I'm getting tempted to pull the top off them, shove a bookshelf I like on it (say my PSB 400i's) and use an external crossover to split the sound between the 801 base and the PSB bookshelves.
I'll ask. If there is an alternative design, it would probably be only for the mid-tweeter part of the crossover. It would require building the new crossover, opening the speaker cabinets, removing or bypassing the old crossover, and wiring in the new one.

Those Kevlar cones don't seem stiff. They don't move in unison to light pressure, but rather flex.
According to TLS these so-called bend drivers are different animals than the more standard piston types. Remember that light finger pressure is at a different vibration frequency than 3-6 kHz.

But on what was an ($8k? $10k?) speaker from such a major manufacturer: you'd think that'd be addressed.
You'd think so. Apparently B&W has tied its identity to these amber colored Kevlar drivers. They have improved them over the years, but I doubt if I want to own them.

Not to ask a newb question: but is there any way the amplifier could be a problem here? I don't here what I think of as "clipping", but that could be my lack of experience.
I'm inclined to blame the speaker, but I could be wrong.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Originally Posted by JerryLove
Not to ask a newb question: but is there any way the amplifier could be a problem here? I don't here what I think of as "clipping", but that could be my lack of experience.
I feel the map is very likely the problem. What are you driving them with.

I listen to a pair of these often, and I certainly can listen to them for extended periods, without running out of the room!



They are driven by a 400 watt per channel Mac.

My speakers have a little more of the velvet glove, but in tonal balance these speakers are not wide apart. Do I prefer mine, yes and so does the owner. But the reasons for that extend well beyond the mid and high end.

I went to a lot of trouble and expense, to make sure my speakers bested them.

I would love a shoot out between my rig against the PMC monitors at BBC Maida Vale.

 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
Dennis Murphy says he did measure a B&W 3-way (probably an 801) but decided to leave it alone. He has worked with the crappy 601 and the much nicer 805. Both are simpler 2-ways.

I can't imagine why the previous owner wanted to detach the zobel circuit in the crossover. All drivers with a cone and voice coil suffer from impedance that rises with frequency, and a zobel circuit can partially flatten that rise. Removing it probably does not help, but I can't be sure how it would affect the sound on your speakers.

Sorry, but I can't offer any help :(.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Dennis Murphy says he did measure a B&W 3-way (probably an 801) but decided to leave it alone. He has worked with the crappy 601 and the much nicer 805. Both are simpler 2-ways.

I can't imagine why the previous owner wanted to detach the zobel circuit in the crossover. All drivers with a cone and voice coil suffer from impedance that rises with frequency, and a zobel circuit can partially flatten that rise. Removing it probably does not help, but I can't be sure how it would affect the sound on your speakers.

Sorry, but I can't offer any help :(.
Yes, that 600 series has given birth to a lot of problem children hasn't it?

Whichever circuit that guy removed the zobel from will make the driver whose impedance it was equalizing, cut off far to high. So it will have to be put back, or the speaker is no good.
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
I'll ask. If there is an alternative design, it would probably be only for the mid-tweeter part of the crossover. It would require building the new crossover, opening the speaker cabinets, removing or bypassing the old crossover, and wiring in the new one.
Actually: on both 801's the crossover is on the bottom of the speaker. In the 801N there's a cover plate. In the 801s2, it's simply exposed.

I'm inclined to blame the speaker, but I could be wrong.
I don't think a problem amp, but... well, it's the integrated amp in the Integra AVR that's powering it (ask again and I'll deny I said that).

I can't imagine why the previous owner wanted to detach the zobel circuit in the crossover. All drivers with a cone and voice coil suffer from impedance that rises with frequency, and a zobel circuit can partially flatten that rise. Removing it probably does not help, but I can't be sure how it would affect the sound on your speakers.
he read online it would sound better. Did a poor job too. I've reattached it.

It's worth noting that it was also part of the tweeter protection system in the 801s2.
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
I feel the map is very likely the problem. What are you driving them with.

I listen to a pair of these often, and I certainly can listen to them for extended periods, without running out of the room!
800's.

Important question though: Are those the diamond or aluminum ones?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
800's.

Important question though: Are those the diamond or aluminum ones?
They are the diamonds.

You can't possibly drive any of the larger 800 series with any receiver. They are just far too demanding.

Big three ways present severe problems to amps. That is why I always use Quad amps, as Peter designed all his amps to work well within their power range whatever the load.
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
They are the diamonds.

You can't possibly drive any of the larger 800 series with any receiver. They are just far too demanding.
The focus of the change on the diamonds seems to be related to my problem are (extending the response of the tweeters), so it might not be an apples-to-apples comparison there.

The Speakers are 91db efficient. They *should* work off the AVR. Still, I guess there's a little left on the credit card and BB has a Yammy P5000s for either $400 or $500 (or perhaps the Emotiva UPA-5? That's only 125WPC though)
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
The focus of the change on the diamonds seems to be related to my problem are (extending the response of the tweeters), so it might not be an apples-to-apples comparison there.

The Speakers are 91db efficient. They *should* work off the AVR. Still, I guess there's a little left on the credit card and BB has a Yammy P5000s for either $400 or $500 (or perhaps the Emotiva UPA-5? That's only 125WPC though)
Sorry Jerry, but you just fell headlong into a common trap!

Those speakers are 91 db 2.83 volts 1 meter and NOT 91 db 1 watt 1 meter.

Here is the route cause of your problem and misunderstanding.

Your speakers are rated at 8 ohm but are nothing of the sort. They have a minimum impedance of three ohms. So the way they are specked they are not letting on how much amp power is actually drawn from the amp to maintain that 2.82 volts. A sensitivity rating does not correlate with efficiency! When rated like your speakers it tells you nothing at all by itself, about how much amp power you need.

I can assure you the large B & W 800 series speakers like most esoteric three ways, take just gobs of power below 600 Hz. The phase angles are also highly adverse, and three ohms is not even the whole story, as at some frequencies the power drawn is equivalent to a load actually below 2 ohms.

So your receiver will be highly stressed trying to drive those speakers, and actually likely only able to deliver about 25% of its rated power before clipping.

Now I will tell you a story that illustrates how power hungry these beasts are.

When my friend had those 800Ds installed by the dealer, the dealer used the 8 ohm taps on the auto transformers in the Mac amp.

When I first came down to give them a listen, I realized something was terribly wrong. The highs were harsh with the speaker pushed, and the bass was just not filling out.

So I immediately suspected what had happened, and found the transformers on the 8 ohm setting. I told Phil that these might say they are 8 ohm, but they are anything but.

So I changed to the four ohm tap, and it was like night and day.

Phil was curious and phoned the folks at Mac. They have 800Ds there. They confirmed that I was correct that they should be set to the four ohm auto transformer tap. Further they said that the 800 series were among the most difficult to drive speakers they knew of. They told him, that his amp was about the smallest of their amps they would recommend to drive his speakers properly.

The problem is that you are now playing with a highly sophisticated esoteric speaker, and everything else has to be of the same standard, or you will not benefit from owning those speakers.

The difference between the types of systems we are talking about and very highly engineered esoteric ones is huge. It's a chasm.

I recently snagged two nice used Quad 909s. I got both for about half the cost of a new one. The second one arrived yesterday.

I have just been installing them so that I now have 909s powering all the drivers in the front three speakers. So that is 1500 watts on the mains and 500 watts on the center. So the total bill for the front three is 2 KW now. 2.6 KW for the whole system. This is comparable to the kind of power Bryston are providing for their large TL monitors.

It really does take that kind of power for esoteric speakers. I just got though playing Glinka's Russlan and Ludmiller overture, which and concert opener to end all concert openers, and to all intense and purposes I was right in front of the orchestra and everything as it should be.

So to sum it up, if you keep those speakers you will have to learn to piss in the tall grass.
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
Those sound like my symptoms alright. I think I'm gonna go to BB and grab that Yamaha P5000S (500WPC @8ohm, 750WPC @4ohm, valid to 2ohm).

Unless you can recommend something similar that will start from a 12v trigger? I'm getting kinda broke ;)
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Those sound like my symptoms alright. I think I'm gonna go to BB and grab that Yamaha P5000S (500WPC @8ohm, 750WPC @4ohm, valid to 2ohm).

Unless you can recommend something similar that will start from a 12v trigger? I'm getting kinda broke ;)
Some of the McIntosh amps have 12V trigger inputs and if you look around, you should be able to find one for a decent price.

How much is the Yamaha?
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Ninja
Some of the McIntosh amps have 12V trigger inputs and if you look around, you should be able to find one for a decent price.

How much is the Yamaha?
$499 or $399

I actually do own a McIntosh, from the 70s, but it's 120WPC. It also doesn't use a 12v trigger and is not at the house right now.

I also already have a P3500S and pair of P2000S's, but it would actually be less of a pain to buy and return this to BestBuy than unhook one of those from my WmAx setup for testing.

This weekend I should be getting my Adcom back from my friend who has repaired if for me. But that's (IIRC) 7x125; so it's heading to ebay or audiogon (since that model is selling used near $1k).
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Those sound like my symptoms alright. I think I'm gonna go to BB and grab that Yamaha P5000S (500WPC @8ohm, 750WPC @4ohm, valid to 2ohm).

Unless you can recommend something similar that will start from a 12v trigger? I'm getting kinda broke ;)
I have had a good look at the manual and specification of that Yamaha amp. Unfortunately I can only find user reviews. So there are a few things I would wonder about. For instance form the power consumption graph the amp has to more heavily biases to class B rather than A, which I never care for, as it can lead to roughness at lower volumes.

That type of distortion known as crossover distortion is a form of distortion to which I'm unusually sensitive. So it would be interesting to closely look at sign waves on the scope at varying power levels. That is why I stay with the Quads, which like class A amps, have zero crossover distortion.

However it looks as if that amp stands a good chance of allowing you to piss in the tall grass with those 801Ns.

As far as a trigger, that is problematic as the amp is powerful. When I did my installation I could not find any 12 volt relays that would take the required currents. So I could not use the 12 volt trigger system and had to make my own 24 volt system.

It is a pity the industry went with a 12 volt trigger rather than 24 volt.

So that makes it hard to make a 12 volt relay system to work with the 12 volt triggers and would require going with a gated MOSFET to get the job done. Powerful amps that switch on from a 12 volt trigger, I assume must have some sort of solid state switching circuit.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
I found the Stereophile review of the B&W Matrix 801 series 2 speaker from December 1987.

Skip the 6 pages of verbiage and go directly to the Specifications page:

Crossover frequencies: 380 Hz and 3 kHz
Frequency response: 20 Hz-20 kHz ± 2 dB free-field
Sensitivity: 87dB/W/m
Nominal impedance: 8 ohms (not falling below 4 ohms)
Amplifier requirements: 50-600 watts

And look at the measurements. The first figure graphs impedance vs. frequency (solid black line). The bass and midrange never drop below 6 ohms. The tweeter does drop a little below 6 ohms at 10 kHz, but I don't think that should be a problem for an amp. Still, I agree with TLS that this speaker benefits greatly from a big amp.

I scanned the rest of the graphs, but saw nothing that might suggest an explanation for the problem you hear. To get at that you would need to see separate frequency response curves of the midrange and the tweeter, while each is connected to the crossover circuits and again while disconnected from them.

Go find the review for the Nautilus 801 and see what its specs are. I suspect its impedance curve might go lower than 4 ohms in the bass freqs.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I found the Stereophile review of the B&W Matrix 801 series 2 speaker from December 1987.

Skip the 6 pages of verbiage and go directly to the Specifications page:

Crossover frequencies: 380 Hz and 3 kHz
Frequency response: 20 Hz-20 kHz ± 2 dB free-field
Sensitivity: 87dB/W/m
Nominal impedance: 8 ohms (not falling below 4 ohms)
Amplifier requirements: 50-600 watts

And look at the measurements. The first figure graphs impedance vs. frequency (solid black line). The bass and midrange never drop below 6 ohms. The tweeter does drop a little below 6 ohms at 10 kHz, but I don't think that should be a problem for an amp. Still, I agree with TLS that this speaker benefits greatly from a big amp.

I scanned the rest of the graphs, but saw nothing that might suggest an explanation for the problem you hear. To get at that you would need to see separate frequency response curves of the midrange and the tweeter, while each is connected to the crossover circuits and again while disconnected from them.

Go find the review for the Nautilus 801 and see what its specs are. I suspect its impedance curve might go lower than 4 ohms in the bass freqs.
I was referring to his 801N.

You will see those speakers are 3 ohm from 70 Hz to 300 Hz. when allowing for phase angles and the current to be provided for the apparent power, those speakers will suck the life out of any receiver.

His 801 series 2 has been mucked about, but it would be the easier drive. The midrange on that unit is not nearly as good as the ones in his 801N. I never could really get on with those B & W speakers from that era, despite high praise from a lot of quarters. My friend Phil had a pair of these for many years and my brother is still using a pair.



At the time of their introduction I was contemplating giving up my own endeavors, but after extensive listening at Frank Van Alstine's place I decided I could do better and I was glad I did not buy them. It was a long road though and the development of the monitors was a very long journey indeed.

With the right amp he should be able to get good results from his 801Ns even though they are an older design. But then again I have not heard them for a while.

I wish I had had time my last visit to the UK and go up to Luton and visit PMC. I hear there speakers are really something. They really need to redo their website though.
 
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Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
The Nautilus 801 would definitely suck the life out of all receivers and many separate amps too :eek:

I should have included images of the two graphs, first the Nautilus:



for comparison, the Matrix 801 series 2:

 

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