Rockler Bits?

[lsiberian]

Looking to get a 3/4" dado bit for shelf building.

 

[highfigh]

Looking to get a 3/4" dado bit for shelf building.

Router bit? I have a couple of theirs and they're OK. Most of mine are Freud but I have some others from WoodCraft that I bought on sale. Don't try to take a full cut, though. I prefer to use a dado blade on my table saw for these because there's no tearout.

 

[Swerd]

Rockler router bits are OK but Freud, Whiteside and others I can't remember now stay sharp longer. They are worth the slightly higher price.

Don't expect a ¾" bit to make the correct size dado for the lumber you use. There is too much variation is exactly what ¾" thick lumber is. MDF will vary from plywood. Better to use one good quality bit, like a ½" bit, and make two passes to fit the exact thickness of the lumber you are using. Stand the shelf board on it's side and pencil in the lines where you'll cut the dado. That way you'll minimize the number of expensive bits you'll need.

 

[highfigh]

Rockler router bits are OK but Freud, Whiteside and others I can't remember now stay sharp longer. They are worth the slightly higher price.

Don't expect a ¾" bit to make the correct size dado for the lumber you use. There is too much variation is exactly what ¾" thick lumber is. MDF will vary from plywood. Better to use one good quality bit, like a ½" bit, and make two passes to fit the exact thickness of the lumber you are using. Stand the shelf board on it's side and pencil in the lines where you'll cut the dado. That way you'll minimize the number of expensive bits you'll need.

You're right and unfortunately, most sheet goods are metric in thickness. That's also the main reason I prefer to use a dado on my table saw.

 

[lsiberian]

Rockler router bits are OK but Freud, Whiteside and others I can't remember now stay sharp longer. They are worth the slightly higher price.

Don't expect a ¾" bit to make the correct size dado for the lumber you use. There is too much variation is exactly what ¾" thick lumber is. MDF will vary from plywood. Better to use one good quality bit, like a ½" bit, and make two passes to fit the exact thickness of the lumber you are using. Stand the shelf board on it's side and pencil in the lines where you'll cut the dado. That way you'll minimize the number of expensive bits you'll need.

Well they under-size the dado bit for plywood these days. I got a great deal on a couple of Holbren bits. I've heard good things so we'll see.

Whiteside bit's are fantastic for sure.

 

[yettitheman]

Rockler router bits are OK but Freud, Whiteside and others I can't remember now stay sharp longer. They are worth the slightly higher price.

Don't expect a ¾" bit to make the correct size dado for the lumber you use. There is too much variation is exactly what ¾" thick lumber is. MDF will vary from plywood. Better to use one good quality bit, like a ½" bit, and make two passes to fit the exact thickness of the lumber you are using. Stand the shelf board on it's side and pencil in the lines where you'll cut the dado. That way you'll minimize the number of expensive bits you'll need.

Well they under-size the dado bit for plywood these days. I got a great deal on a couple of Holbren bits. I've heard good things so we'll see.

Whiteside bit's are fantastic for sure.

X3 on the Whiteside. Getting ready to build some cabinets for my sisters house, and there is going to be a ****load of oak being shaped by Whitesides.

 

[jinjuku]

I have a stacked dado blade for my table saw. When it come to doing a dado in 3/4 ply what would be a good depth and width to accommodate the window brace and glue I want to use?

How much over 3/4" should you go for the width? is 1/4" too deep?

Thx guys

P.S. This is for some 21X21X21 sub boxes that will be sealed with window brace.

 

[lsiberian]

I have a stacked dado blade for my table saw. When it come to doing a dado in 3/4 ply what would be a good depth and width to accommodate the window brace and glue I want to use?

How much over 3/4" should you go for the width? is 1/4" too deep?

Thx guys

P.S. This is for some 21X21X21 sub boxes that will be sealed with window brace.

1/3rd of the wood is as far as I'd go. though for a sealed sub It's not really necessary.

 

[highfigh]

The rule for depth is 1/3 of the thickness and for width, it's just barely more than a tight fit because it will squeeze all of the glue out if it's too tight. Just do test cuts on scrap before making the real cuts.

Hence, "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short".

 

[lsiberian]

The rule for depth is 1/3 of the thickness and for width, it's just barely more than a tight fit because it will squeeze all of the glue out if it's too tight. Just do test cuts on scrap before making the real cuts.

Hence, "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short".

The ideal joint according to torsion machine testing is a glued lightly tapped in piece with titebond. This type of joint has over 1 ton of strength. Which is insanely high. Just like we like.

 

[highfigh]

The ideal joint according to torsion machine testing is a glued lightly tapped in piece with titebond. This type of joint has over 1 ton of strength. Which is insanely high. Just like we like.

So, which torsion machine did you say you're putting in that box?

I wouldn't recommend that anyone use butt joints with no mechanical fasteners on a baffle, whether it's one of the box faces or a divider in a bandpass box. Either dados or wooden cleats will keep the panel from breaking the bond, which can fail due to shear. When I was doing car audio, a guy came in and one of the others built a box for him. He cranked the snot out of it and the inner baffle broke loose, and Tony never had that happen, before or since. There was no problem with the way the box was assembled, either.

 

[jinjuku]

Thanks for all the tips. I had to play with the with of the dado and now have it to where I believe the width is correct for the glue not to squeeze out.

Amazing how quick a couple of cubed boxes can be turned out with the right equipment (table saw and router).

The actual carcass is made of 7 layer birch. the internal brace is 18X19.5"'s with a 13 inch round window that I took a 3/4" round over bit to. Looks really nice. The baffles will be 7 layer birch inset to the box and 3/4" MDF on front. This should yield a 3 cubic foot sealed enclosure when it is all done.

I am going to build a center channel for a friend. With this I am going to try all 45's so there is no exposed edge. Wish me luck and I will take any tips you have to give.

 

[lsiberian]

Thanks for all the tips. I had to play with the with of the dado and now have it to where I believe the width is correct for the glue not to squeeze out.

Amazing how quick a couple of cubed boxes can be turned out with the right equipment (table saw and router).

The actual carcass is made of 7 layer birch. the internal brace is 18X19.5"'s with a 13 inch round window that I took a 3/4" round over bit to. Looks really nice. The baffles will be 7 layer birch inset to the box and 3/4" MDF on front. This should yield a 3 cubic foot sealed enclosure when it is all done.

I am going to build a center channel for a friend. With this I am going to try all 45's so there is no exposed edge. Wish me luck and I will take any tips you have to give.

There are several ways to build a cabinet. But for a center channel copy Mark's use of the Loki Coaxial kit. It's perfect for center channel use.

45's aren't necessary if you use the dado construction method. You will be using quarter round on the edges.

 

[Swerd]

I never try doing a 45° miter cut on MDF. The thin edges crumble. It's hard for me even with good plywood like baltic birch.

Mentioning how MDF and plywood come in metric thicknesses reminds me that I hate how this creates problems when using our non-metric tools. Speaker building is a good example, because nearly all drivers are made in metric dimensions. Figuring out how large a hole to cut for a driver 148 mm in diameter while using non-metric cutting and measuring tools is a mighty pain!!

And don't even mention that we measure length in inches (which by itself is alright) and fractions of inches (halves, quarters, eighths, sixteenths, etc.) which are awful to add, subtract, or divide in your head. If we even used inches and decimal inches it would be a lot easier than those dreadful fractions. If you have a board 7 and 5/8" wide, quickly (without using a calculator or pen & paper) tell me how far from the edge is the center. The answer is 3½ plus 5/16 = 3 and 13/16"). If we used centimeters, half of 19.4 cm is 9.7 cm. That's much easier to do in your head.

It's funny that we still call non-metric as the English system because the British abandoned it for metric a long time ago. And that brings me to my last point in this rant… if we had changed over to the metric system back in the early 1980s, as planned, none of this would matter today.

 

[jinjuku]

There are several ways to build a cabinet. But for a center channel copy Mark's use of the Loki Coaxial kit. It's perfect for center channel use.

45's aren't necessary if you use the dado construction method. You will be using quarter round on the edges.

I am using 7 layer ply (birch). I don't want the ply edge showing. Just the veneer.

I am building Zaphs ZA5 center...

 

[jinjuku]

And don't even mention that we measure length in inches (which by itself is alright) and fractions of inches (halves, quarters, eighths, sixteenths, etc.) which are awful to add, subtract, or divide in your head. If we even used inches and decimal inches it would be a lot easier than those dreadful fractions. If you have a board 7 and 5/8" wide, quickly (without using a calculator or pen & paper) tell me how far from the edge is the center. The answer is 3½ plus 5/16 = 3 and 13/16"). If we used centimeters, half of 19.4 cm is 9.7 cm. That's much easier to do in your head.

It's funny that we still call non-metric as the English system because the British abandoned it for metric a long time ago. And that brings me to my last point in this rant… if we had changed over to the metric system back in the early 1980s, as planned, none of this would matter today.

+1 that! The Imperial measurement system is not alright. IT SUCKS. Metric is hands down the better system.

 

[lsiberian]

I am using 7 layer ply (birch). I don't want the ply edge showing. Just the veneer.

I am building Zaphs ZA5 center...

7 ply is a bit less than I'd normally use.

 

[jinjuku]

7 ply is a bit less than I'd normally use.

Isn't the only thing left 9 layer?

 

[highfigh]

Isn't the only thing left 9 layer?

Depends on the level of quality. Cabinet grade is usually 11 ply, unless it's less than 19mm, and then it's 9 ply.

 

[jinjuku]

It's 3/4" 9 ply birch.