Interesting 21" sub build

[Matt34]

I love some of the designs this guy has produced! Check out his take on subwoofers.

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Serious-Sub.html

 

[Loren42]

Then there is this:

http://www.dougronald.com/sound_images.htm

Six Electrovoice 30Ws (among other things) built into a daylight basement wall for home theater.

Makes that 21.5" woofer look like a midrange.

 

[Alex2507]

I love some of the designs this guy has produced! Check out his take on subwoofers.

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Serious-Sub.html

Not that I know much about this but check out the size of that round thing in the middle pic !!!

I've got one in a Sunfire plate amp for an AR sub but it's only widdle.

 

[BudgetHT]

Not that I know much about this but check out the size of that round thing in the middle pic !!!

Or the size of those caps. Those things are huge.

 

[Matt34]

All walls consist (from the inside to the outside) of 18mm mdf / 1,5mm lead sheet / 18mm mdf / 10mm mdf resulting in a total wall thickness of nearly 5 centimeters.

His construction method is pretty cool as well.

 

[jostenmeat]

I love some of the designs this guy has produced! Check out his take on subwoofers.

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Serious-Sub.html

Man, I don't know what happened to me in the last month, but I've been feeling the upgraditis. I should never have gone to do a recent PJ demo, maybe it started there. Your Tuba build really piqued my interest in DIY, probably more than ever before. I was browsing the DIY build master list sticky at AVS, and it's pretty overwhelming to even begin figuring out what to do, and how much the cost differential might be between any builds.

I liked that Danley kit too, but I guess that's going to cost 2-3x, if not more, than a real DIY. However, I don't know want kind of performance gap there is supposed to be.

Matt, is your Tuba build basically the greatest bang for buck that you found when figuring out which build to do? Thanks. My friend who is a handyman said just last night he would help me build it for free if I ever wanted to.

And in all honesty, call me dumb and paranoid, I am a little worried about structural integrity of the home! lol, at least the windows too. I guess I'll simply calibrate, and keep levels sane. I suppose some builds might require specially built filters?

 

[Quickley17]

Another 270-ish pound beast... I'm particularly impressed with his awesome woodworking skills.

 

[Matt34]

Man, I don't know what happened to me in the last month, but I've been feeling the upgraditis. I should never have gone to do a recent PJ demo, maybe it started there. Your Tuba build really piqued my interest in DIY, probably more than ever before. I was browsing the DIY build master list sticky at AVS, and it's pretty overwhelming to even begin figuring out what to do, and how much the cost differential might be between any builds.

I liked that Danley kit too, but I guess that's going to cost 2-3x, if not more, than a real DIY. However, I don't know want kind of performance gap there is supposed to be.

Matt, is your Tuba build basically the greatest bang for buck that you found when figuring out which build to do? Thanks. My friend who is a handyman said just last night he would help me build it for free if I ever wanted to.

And in all honesty, call me dumb and paranoid, I am a little worried about structural integrity of the home! lol, at least the windows too. I guess I'll simply calibrate, and keep levels sane. I suppose some builds might require specially built filters?

From everything I've looked at I don't think there is anything that can match it for watch I have into it ($275-ish, already had the amp)....and to say that it at the very least it matches, if not exceeds my dual Kappa build in both output and sound quality says something. The only downside is it is a massive enclosure!

 

[jostenmeat]

From everything I've looked at I don't think there is anything that can match it for watch I have into it ($275-ish, already had the amp)....and to say that it at the very least it matches, if not exceeds my dual Kappa build in both output and sound quality says something.

That sure does say something!

The only downside is it is a massive enclosure!

In all honesty, I am pretty happy with my F113 setup. While I know I'm missing a lot of subsonics, I still have quite the visceral experience at home, particularly when on the riser, and IMHO it's comparable in tactile feel with the local IMAX. Yet, the knowledge that I'm missing subsonics leads me to the Tuba, hehe. When I did choose my sub back when, I did so for the SQ (was mated with electrostats), and with good looks and diminutive size in mind for the LR. This was way before a lot of current day choices were available, including the PB13s.

Here is my main worry: The only place for the Tuba is behind all of the seating. Since bass is omni-directional, this shouldn't matter I suppose? My present sub is placed on the sidewall, about 1/3 from front wall, in front of viewers. While the mains are crossed at 60hz, all others are at 80hz.

Assuming you tell me that behind all viewers is perfectly fine, I suppose you would also say that the Dayton driver you are using is the best present fit for that build, and that even the most modest of pro amps will be enough to fill my entire home and then some? Thanks.

 

[Matt34]

That sure does say something!



In all honesty, I am pretty happy with my F113 setup. While I know I'm missing a lot of subsonics, I still have quite the visceral experience at home, particularly when on the riser, and IMHO it's comparable in tactile feel with the local IMAX. Yet, the knowledge that I'm missing subsonics leads me to the Tuba, hehe. When I did choose my sub back when, I did so for the SQ (was mated with electrostats), and with good looks and diminutive size in mind for the LR. This was way before a lot of current day choices were available, including the PB13s.

Here is my main worry: The only place for the Tuba is behind all of the seating. Since bass is omni-directional, this shouldn't matter I suppose? My present sub is placed on the sidewall, about 1/3 from front wall, in front of viewers. While the mains are crossed at 60hz, all others are at 80hz.

Assuming you tell me that behind all viewers is perfectly fine, I suppose you would also say that the Dayton driver you are using is the best present fit for that build, and that even the most modest of pro amps will be enough to fill my entire home and then some? Thanks.

The THT isn't going to get you much lower than what your F113 does, unless you have some nice room gain. If your expecting anything below 15hz I don't think this is the answer.

Recently finished THT REW graph.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=17937709&postcount=493

Another
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=17936475&postcount=488

I think some people can tell where bass is coming from at 60-80hz but I also think some that say they can run their bass too hot, YMMV.

The Dayton 15" DVC is what is recommended in the design, there is a cheaper option that is available as well that Bill F. recommends.

Almost any amp that doesn't have a LPF built in would work. Here is what I'm using:
http://emotiva.com/bpa1.html

I'm getting reference levels (115db) with it at the listening position.

 

[annunaki]

His construction method is pretty cool as well.

Agreed Matt. It looks like he is using a constrained layer damping method to some degree. A viso-elastic compound would work better than lead there.

The weight on the enclosures is over 200 lbs. each! The guy is a craftsman.