TC 2000 sealed with 2400 watts?

[monsterman]

Sounds like you need another TC2000.....

I think I would rather get a ported 8W7 send it like 1k and tune it high...let the tc2000 crush lows, depending on the feedback from others on the forum. Most likely over the course of a year I can find an amp and 8W7 + box for like $400 total cost. Now that I have a DCX I can add whatever I want.


It crushes the SI Mag!!! WoW. The SI Mag is a very well respected driver in the car audio industry. I got a very very significant deal.

 

[monsterman]

Yeah, he made the boxes too small, but the LMS still made quite an impression on all the tests as to how good it really was even in the small box....

My boxes are 6^3 net, and that seems to be a pretty good size for them to show their magic !!!

The Build quality of those drivers is just over the top, and worth the entry fee if one can afford them... Can't wait until my pre-order comes through

It looks like an optimal sealed box size for the SS RL-s is 10^3. Not appropriate for most people's home application.
I still need to get my TC2k tuned after I get the rest of my wires and adapters for the bookshelves to hook into the DCX. I keep forgetting that I have ~1.8k watts at hand and everyday I come home and play it loud for a few minutes to remind myself of the insane power at my fingertips. I don't know how people can spend $1k on a 350watt preassembled when they could have this for the same price. I play a ton of techno and this assembly really seems to crush it.

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/Video-2449-sound-splinter-rls15-3.html#watch
here is a video of some RL-s's powered by some ep2500's.

 

[WmAx]

It looks like an optimal sealed box size for the SS RL-s is 10^3. Not appropriate for most people's home application.
I still need to get my TC2k tuned after I get the rest of my wires and adapters for the bookshelves to hook into the DCX. I keep forgetting that I have ~1.8k watts at hand and everyday I come home and play it loud for a few minutes to remind myself of the insane power at my fingertips. I don't know how people can spend $1k on a 350watt preassembled when they could have this for the same price. I play a ton of techno and this assembly really seems to crush it.

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/Video-2449-sound-splinter-rls15-3.html#watch
here is a video of some RL-s's powered by some ep2500's.

Sorry, but 'optimal' means nothing. Software 'suggested' cabinets are not what one should base things upon. The driver will perform superbly in even small boxes. You simply need a device such as a DCX to make the necessary compensation(s).

What exactly do you want the 8W7 for? If the intention is the midbass band, then you need two (one for each channel and placed near each main channel L and R). 500 watts is optimal for the 8W7.

-Chris

 

[monsterman]

Sorry, but 'optimal' means nothing. Software 'suggested' cabinets are not what one should base things upon. The driver will perform superbly in even small boxes. You simply need a device such as a DCX to make the necessary compensation(s).

What exactly do you want the 8W7 for? If the intention is the midbass band, then you need two (one for each channel and placed near each main channel L and R). 500 watts is optimal for the 8W7.

-Chris

I would like to own a very complimentary subwoofer. I was under the impression the TC 2000 was not very good on the top end, or should I say not as good. I figured a nice ported 8W7 could add some sweet sound to the stuff I have currently. Who wouldn't want an 8W7 in the mix? I'm sure there are better dedicated midbass opportunities for my budget and output needs.

 

[monsterman]

What exactly do you want the 8W7 for? If the intention is the midbass band, then you need two (one for each channel and placed near each main channel L and R). 500 watts is optimal for the 8W7.
-Chris

I've seen video's of the 8W7 getting 1k. Would you agree having 700 watts on tap for that driver would be appropriate?

 

[Warpdrv]

I would like to own a very complimentary subwoofer. I was under the impression the TC 2000 was not very good on the top end, or should I say not as good. I figured a nice ported 8W7 could add some sweet sound to the stuff I have currently. Who wouldn't want an 8W7 in the mix? I'm sure there are better dedicated midbass opportunities for my budget and output needs.

As pointed out by WmAx, you will want 2 of those for mid bass, upper octaves become highly localizable, so having a pair of 8w7's need to be near or directly associated with your mains... and personally I would suggest setting them up as sealed... you could make them into narrow tall stands for your audio engines....

 

[monsterman]

Wmax - What brand / website did you order your serial to USB converter for your DCX?

I think I will hold off on any addition to the system until I get this one set up. I just bought a 25.5" monitor and Dragon Age Origins has been sitting on my desk waiting for the monitor to arrive.

I will try to make a video with my phone of my setup when it's all complete so we can have it on record. I would feel odd posting a review because I have limited listening experience, (minus Bose systems but they are terrible).

 

[Warpdrv]

Keyspan is a pretty well known unit
http://www.amazon.com/Keyspan-Speed-.../dp/B0000VYJRY

You can also get a PCMCIA to serial card that will work very well if your using a Laptop...



I am using this one, I got off ebay...

search PCMCIA to serial on ebay or google
Reply With Quote

 

[monsterman]

Thanks Warp. However, I have one similar but the problem is... on the back of the DCX the serial connection also has the small metal screws. Most Serial -> USB connections have the metal buttons also.... making it impossible to connect.

I need help with crossover points for my bookshelves. I have my subwoofer at 80 with at 80 with a 12 db rolloff.
I dont have that 12 db attenuators yet....would it be bad to try to connect the Audioengine A5's to the DCX without it?

 

[WmAx]

Monsterman, the cable on the USB to SERIAL is too short for practical use. Use a serial extension cable; this will take care of the length and screw end issue at the same time.

The JLW87 will take 1k easily; just be sure to band limit it to 60-65Hz using a 4th order slope and no lower to prevent over-excursion. Use a small sealed cabinet (0.7-0.8 cubic foot is optimal) and you MUST use one per channel if you want perfect integration. The JL8W7 can be used up to approximately 150-160Hz using a 4th order crossover slope. Do not use at a higher frequency or shallower slope; distortion begins to rise rapidly if you try to use it up higher.

-Chris

 

[monsterman]

The JLW87 will take 1k easily; just be sure to band limit it to 60-65Hz using a 4th order slope and no lower to prevent over-excursion. Use a small sealed cabinet (0.7-0.8 cubic foot is optimal) and you MUST use one per channel if you want perfect integration. The JL8W7 can be used up to approximately 150-160Hz using a 4th order crossover slope. Do not use at a higher frequency or shallower slope; distortion begins to rise rapidly if you try to use it up higher.

-Chris

I looked up 4th order slope.
Fourth order crossovers
Fourth-order filters have an 80 dB/decade (or 24 dB/octave) slope. These filters are complex to design in passive form, as the components interact with each other. Steep-slope passive networks are less tolerant of parts value deviations or tolerances, and more sensitive to mis-termination with reactive driver loads. A 4th order crossover with -6 dB crossover point and flat summing is also known as a Linkwitz-Riley crossover (named after its inventors), and can be constructed in active form by cascading two 2nd order Butterworth filter sections. The output signals of this crossover order are in phase, thus avoiding partial phase inversion if the crossover bandpasses are electrically summed, as they would be within the output stage of a multiband compressor. Crossovers used in loudspeaker design do not require the filter sections to be in phase: smooth output characteristics are often achieved using non-ideal, asymmetric crossover filter characteristics.[1] Bessel, Butterworth and Chebyshev are among the possible crossover topologies.
But don't necessarily understand how that translates to my DCX.... I'm guessing using a 24db slope?

I'd also like to post a diagram of my room to get help with sub placement. Does anyone have any suggestions of a program to use?

 

[Warpdrv]

Monsterman, the cable on the USB to SERIAL is too short for practical use. Use a serial extension cable; this will take care of the length and screw end issue at the same time.

Yes, you must get an extension cable also in order to use either device I listed.... I would suggest a nice long one at least 20ft for flexibility.

 

[monsterman]

Yes, you must get an extension cable also in order to use either device I listed.... I would suggest a nice long one at least 20ft for flexibility.

I got a 6ft cable used off amazon for $9 shipped. That should work fine for now considering my DCX and PC are right next to each other.

 

[monsterman]

Is it possible the signal coming from the computer is limiting the overall output of the system, more specifically... the EP 2500?

Is there any equipment that regulates power at the basic level, from the house circuit to the equipment. Like a power cap & Yellow Top batteries is to car audio that 'X' is to home audio?

 

[WmAx]

Is it possible the signal coming from the computer is limiting the overall output of the system, more specifically... the EP 2500?

Is there any equipment that regulates power at the basic level, from the house circuit to the equipment. Like a power cap & Yellow Top batteries is to car audio that 'X' is to home audio?

A computer or other unbalanced source will not usually drive the EP2500's inputs satisfactorily. But if you are feeding the Ep2500 from the DCX2496, this would not be an issue.

If you want to drive an Ep2500 or other pro amp from an unbalanced consumer source, use a Samson S-Convert unit.

-Chris

 

[Shock]

If your heart stops you'd be dead silly. Then how would you enjoy your new sub?

 

[monsterman]

If your heart stops you'd be dead silly. Then how would you enjoy your new sub?

Some people just try too hard.



On a serious note. Here is a picture of my room setup. Is my sub placement satisfactory? How about orientation? It is basically facing directly at my legs while sitting at the computer. I would like to get it placed before I start running REW and getting the DCX calibrated.
-Please not this is not drawn to scale and the only other workable option would be to have the sub on the opposite side of the desk or under the desk but that would be annoying. Otherwise I would forced to move my furniture, which I want to avoid because I have everything placed neat.

 

[Warpdrv]

Really the only way to know if that is the right placement is to measure the in room response with REW and see how the performance looks at the seating position....

Other then that its a cr@p shoot, if it sounds good, then great, but if you have room nodes that are creating a problem, you'll not be able to tell what you need for eq at the seating position to get a flat response...

 

[monsterman]

Really the only way to know if that is the right placement is to measure the in room response with REW and see how the performance looks at the seating position....

Other then that its a cr@p shoot, if it sounds good, then great, but if you have room nodes that are creating a problem, you'll not be able to tell what you need for eq at the seating position to get a flat response...

Thanks Warp. I will order the SPL meter and get started on it then.

 

[monsterman]

Still waiting on the funds for the SPL meter. Checking in after watching a movie and it scaring the hell out of my GF. She said, "It sounds so real and powerful". That made me love her more because she understand how to compliment my gear.
The A5's are also working flawlessly. Waiting on the spl meter before I review the products.