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Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
... hopefully worth the wait.:)
Based on what I've seen and heard, it will be.

... does it say that there is concrete in these cabinets?
It's a backerboard for ceramic tile. Not Wonder Board but something similar. Home Depot carries it I believe. Those speakers must weigh in at around 90lbs without any drivers. I figure about the same weight as a 4'x10'x5/8" sheet of drywall. I carried them up stairs without drivers but with the drivers, especially that JL 8W7 subwoofer in the back it will take 2 people going back down. I'm counting on this being my last speaker purchase ever.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Holy shiznit! Do my eyes deceive me, or does it say that there is concrete in these cabinets?!?! :eek:
Re-enforced concrete. It is concrete with fibers in it, giving it far higher strength than normal concrete. It is called Hardi-Backer. It is normally used for tile installation. The unit also has lots of steel and 1.2" thick oak. The bottom 1/2 is 2.25" MDF + 0.75" steel square stock embedded into the walls.

-Chris
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Here are the sequential progress images for Randy's cabinets up to current:

http://www.linaeum.com/productinfo/other/ultra_linear_monitor/build/01.jpg

http://www.linaeum.com/productinfo/other/ultra_linear_monitor/build/02.jpg

http://www.linaeum.com/productinfo/other/ultra_linear_monitor/build/03.jpg

http://www.linaeum.com/productinfo/other/ultra_linear_monitor/build/04.jpg

http://www.linaeum.com/productinfo/other/ultra_linear_monitor/build/05.jpg

It is important to note that Randy's speaker is a very unique type of speaker. It uses a JL 8" woofer, and mirrored mid and tweeter (front and back). The mirrored mid/tweeter pair of extraordinary dispersion capability. This gives the option of effectively having an acoustic room loading of omnipolar or monopolar radiation patterns. This is also the same design I will be using for my new speakers, except I will also have a bass module these sit upon, housing 15" TC Sounds AXIS woofers. Cabinet construction is 0.75" birch ply + Peel N Seal dampening layer + 1.2" Oak inner layers + extensive bracing.

-Chris
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
He mentioned that he was upset when the ribs tipped his car over, but I actually think that he was pretty excited about the size of those bad boys.
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Here are the sequential progress images for Randy's cabinets up to current:

-Chris
Did you bend the ply yourself? That looks amazing and is a treasure trove of engineering quality.
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
Here are the sequential progress images for Randy's cabinets up to current:

http://www.linaeum.com/productinfo/other/ultra_linear_monitor/build/01.jpg

http://www.linaeum.com/productinfo/other/ultra_linear_monitor/build/02.jpg

http://www.linaeum.com/productinfo/other/ultra_linear_monitor/build/03.jpg

http://www.linaeum.com/productinfo/other/ultra_linear_monitor/build/04.jpg

http://www.linaeum.com/productinfo/other/ultra_linear_monitor/build/05.jpg

It is important to note that Randy's speaker is a very unique type of speaker. It uses a JL 8" woofer, and mirrored mid and tweeter (front and back). The mirrored mid/tweeter pair of extraordinary dispersion capability. This gives the option of effectively having an acoustic room loading of omnipolar or monopolar radiation patterns. This is also the same design I will be using for my new speakers, except I will also have a bass module these sit upon, housing 15" TC Sounds AXIS woofers. Cabinet construction is 0.75" birch ply + Peel N Seal dampening layer + 1.2" Oak inner layers + extensive bracing.

-Chris
Where is the peel and stick between the layers of wood? If so what is the fastening technique for the oak , simply glued to the peel and stick ?or is it glue and fastners?
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Where is the peel and stick between the layers of wood? If so what is the fastening technique for the oak , simply glued to the peel and stick ?or is it glue and fastners?
Image 02.jpg shows the Peel N' Seal layer applied. The Peel N' Seal is heated with a heat gun and applied to the inside of the plywood. I then scuffed the aluminum face of the Peel N' Seal with 100 GRIT, then cleaned thoroughly with acetone. I then used PLH Proffesional Polyurethane construction adhesive (comes in caulk tubes) to adhere the 1.2" oak to the aluminum. DO NOT USE FASTENERS. The fasteners would of course go through the visco-elastic layer and anchor into the first layer, thus substantially reducing the effect that the visco-elastic layer has in converting vibrational energy into thermal energy because the visco-elastic layer would be less excited, with vibrational energy coupling through solid fasteners through the external layer. You can also use solvent based contact cement to adhere the oak to the aluminum face; but you need to use more layers of Peel N' Seal to allow for a compensation cushion to allow the slight curve in the oak pieces to secure into the entire face of the aluminum. The construction adhesive is thick and occupies space where small gaps may be present, allowing less Peel N' Seal to be used.

-Chris
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
I realize that the silver faced material is the peel and stick I guess my question is more directed towards the oak bracing install is it simply adhered to the peel and stick or is it applied with some fasteners too ?I think I notice it to be between the outer ply and inner oak layer, does it( oak layer) easily adhere to the silver faced material ?
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I realize that the silver faced material is the peel and stick I guess my question is more directed towards the oak bracing install is it simply adhered to the peel and stick or is it applied with some fasteners too ?I think I notice it to be between the outer ply and inner oak layer, does it( oak layer) easily adhere to the silver faced material ?
Reply no. 48 explains the process in detail.

-Chris
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
Thank you and that also answered my next question about holidays/air space where the oak displays natural bends and such.Do you use a face planer to get your oak as true as possible or is it purchased stock only ? My curiosity on the cabinet end has really grabbed my attention , hope you dont mind.
*Oh and by the way you are quite the woodworker, very excellent cabinets , no doubt.
The attention to detail far surpasses the quote" Cabinet Maker" un-Quote.
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
I am so much on the bubble here about speaker building , just so much more to learn.However when it comes to the boxes themselves I can build a finished cabinet with internal bracing like it was my job. I would like to give new fronts and a center a definite go I would save a ton of moneies, satisfaction of DIY and work with wood, my 1st love, ready to guide another builder ? :) :confused:
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I am so much on the bubblfffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffflike it was my job. I would like to give new fronts and a center a definite go I would save a ton of moneies, satisfaction of DIY and work with wood, my 1st love, ready to guide another builder ? :) :confused:
Saving money ? Depends on what price range commercial speaker you were content in using. A proper quality DIY cabinet and driver set, built to and designed to my standards, will cost you at least $1500-$1800 for a pair. This does not inlude the extra amplifiers and DSP crossover. Nor does it include room acoustical treatments (which are needed for ANY serious audio system).

-Chris
 
lsiberian

lsiberian

Audioholic Overlord
Saving money ? Depends on what price range commercial speaker you were content in using. A proper quality DIY cabinet and driver set, built to and designed to my standards, will cost you at least $1500-$1800 for a pair. This does not inlude the extra amplifiers and DSP crossover. Nor does it include room acoustical treatments (which are needed for ANY serious audio system).

-Chris
Have you considered constructing your own Amps?
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Have you considered constructing your own Amps?
No. You can not build an amp cheaper than you can buy them today. Waste of time to me. Let's see someone build an amp comparable to the EP2500 for less than $350, or even for $350(and then also consider you can get them for $260 if you shop around)..... It's only something to do if you enjoy the process of building an amp, which I don't.

-Chris
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
WmMax's speakers have to be incredible sounding. When Alex stopped by (for a short time) I gave him a quick demo of my system. My speakers are no slouch and are handbuild by the company that made the Infinite Slope Speakers years ago, which had a good reputation. Do make a long story short I asked him what he thought. He said your speakers sound good but you got to hear WmAx"s speakers, these things are just incredible sounding. Maybe one day I'll have a chance to check out Alex's speakers, I would really enjoy that.
 
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WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Unfortunately, Alex's speakers are not a reflection of what my main units sound like. Alex's speakers have limited dispersion and will be used in a suboptimal acoustic space(room). They were designed for the space they are to be used within(Matt was going to use them in a near identical space). However, they will sound extraordinary RELATIVE to most monopolar speakers used in these conditions.

You are welcome to actually hear my main speaker system if you are ever in Viriginia. My main system did not have to be designed around any room limitations.

-Chris
 
walter duque

walter duque

Audioholic Samurai
You are welcome to actually hear my main speaker system if you are ever in Viriginia. My main system did not have to be designed around any room limitations.
I just might take you up on that. I would love to hear your system. I am sure the trip would be worth the sonic experience.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I just might take you up on that. I would love to hear your system. I am sure the trip would be worth the sonic experience.
Sounds fun. Bring any CDs or LPs you want to hear. I have an extremely low coloration LP playback system set up now.

-Chris
 
sawzalot

sawzalot

Audioholic Samurai
I just might take you up on that. I would love to hear your system. I am sure the trip would be worth the sonic experience.
Pick Me up on the way by we can take the Ferry over to Delaware and be there in just a few hours,maybe more. :D
 
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