Trying to fit a subwoofer in a cabinet

[Bushka]

Hi. I posted on another thread about ceiling speakers, but now have some difficult with the sub. I have to put it in a wall cabinet next to the TV along with the receiver and cable box. I'm being told different things about whether I can put the sub in a cabinet with solid wood door (no speaker cloth) and still have it work. One option might be for me to cut a hole in the top of the cabinet (not built yet) and point the sub up towards the ceiling. Do they make subs that work OK like this? Are there any other options that might make this work? How about leaving an opening in the bottom of the cabinet, and leave the toe kick out in that section, so that the sound come come out the bottom of a bottom firing sub and down to the floor and out??

Thanks!

 

[lsiberian]

Hi. I posted on another thread about ceiling speakers, but now have some difficult with the sub. I have to put it in a wall cabinet next to the TV along with the receiver and cable box. I'm being told different things about whether I can put the sub in a cabinet with solid wood door (no speaker cloth) and still have it work. One option might be for me to cut a hole in the top of the cabinet (not built yet) and point the sub up towards the ceiling. Do they make subs that work OK like this? Are there any other options that might make this work? How about leaving an opening in the bottom of the cabinet, and leave the toe kick out in that section, so that the sound come come out the bottom of a bottom firing sub and down to the floor and out??

Thanks!

This is a bad idea for sure. The sub is going to transfer it's energy to the exterior cabinet and create a resonance nightmare. At the very least you'll want to line the cabinet with dynamat or peel-n-seal.

I shiver at the thought of this.

 

[walter duque]

Downfiring subs need a wide open space.

 

[lsiberian]

Downfiring subs need a wide open space.

Most subs do. Unless specifically designed otherwise. I'm shivering in my boots.

 

[Bushka]

Get a coat and stop shivering, Isberian.

It was in this forum I believe where it was recommended that I enclose the sub in a tight enclosure within the cabinet. But let me get your thinking straight. Are you saying you wouldn't put a sub in a cabinet even if there were a speaker cloth in front of a front firing sub? SpeakerCraft said it would be fine as long as I align their front firing sub even with the front of the cabinet and just behind speaker cloth (which I can't use).

I'm trying to find a way to enclose the sub while at the same time allowing an exit without using speaker cloth. We haven't built any of the cabinets yet, so this is the time for me to design something that will work, if it is even possible.

Thanks.

 

[adwilk]

It is possible. Can you build the cabinet as part of the enclosure? I don't really like the idea of just putting a commercial sub in a cabinet. It will work, it just might not be ideal.

Sub placement can be very important and you just limit yourself in that regard. It might take some eq'ing to get a good response.

The toe-kick idea is awful. I would not do that. Is this a built in cabinet? With a better idea of exactly what we're dealing with we might have a better idea of how to help you.

Is there another place in the room that you could put a sub?

Since youre doing in clg speakers, perhaps a nice earth shattering infinite baffle solution would fit the bill!

I'm sure you've got lots of options...

Can you take some photos...

Is it just me or is it cold in here...?

 

[highfigh]

Get a coat and stop shivering, Isberian.

It was in this forum I believe where it was recommended that I enclose the sub in a tight enclosure within the cabinet. But let me get your thinking straight. Are you saying you wouldn't put a sub in a cabinet even if there were a speaker cloth in front of a front firing sub? SpeakerCraft said it would be fine as long as I align their front firing sub even with the front of the cabinet and just behind speaker cloth (which I can't use).

I'm trying to find a way to enclose the sub while at the same time allowing an exit without using speaker cloth. We haven't built any of the cabinets yet, so this is the time for me to design something that will work, if it is even possible.

Thanks.

If you're using a direct-firing sub, make some kind of panel that allows the face to cover the whole opening in the cabinet space. If the sub's cabinet is appreciably smaller than the interior, it will act like it's in a bandpass box and the tuning won't work as it was designed. If you remove the door, maybe you can make a frame that can be covered with some kind of grill cloth to avoid having a physical barrier.

Are you only building cabinets or is this a new house? If it's a new house, have you thought of building a custom sub box that mounts under the floor? You could use a nice cast metal grate, if that works with The War Department.

 

[Bushka]

Adwilk, see photo below. The frame comes out about the same distance as the short wall to the right - 2 feet. The new fireplace will be gas and will sit in front of the old one at the same height. TV will be mounted above this. You can see all the speaker, coax, and electrical wiring in the box to the right near the floor. The framed area will have a stone veneer, and we will build "built in" cabinets between the new veneered "chimney" and that short wall to the right. Ditto for the left side. The ceiling is 9' high.

The idea is to have 5 ceiling mounted directional speakers (1 center channel), probably from SpeakerCraft (AIM7, 3). Then I would put the receiver, BlueRay, Verizon TV box and subwoofer in the cabinet to the right.

The cabinet maker also did our kitchen cabinets and dining room table, and he can easily build whatever we need to make a subwoofer work in this situation. I can't go with anything floor mounted as highfigh suggested. Actually the new flooring will be finished tomorrow! The Boss wants wood cabinet doors, not speaker cloth or glass. We probably will stop the cabinets at 6 feet high or so, so if the sub output can go "up" through the top, then I could probably do that.

As far as an earth shattering infinite baffle, well, this is the audiophyte forum. I don't know what that is, but I want one.

OK, so I appreciate the replies so far and am looking forward to figuring this puzzle out. Then I can move on to picking the right receiver... but that's another thread.

Bushka

 

[walter duque]

Maybe a sub like in link below might work for you?
http://www.sourcespeaker.com/UFS10P-12P.html

 

[adwilk]

If we can get some dimensions, we could easily design a DIY approach and have the vent exit where the toe kick would be. The driver could be mounted on the top with the vents exiting on the bottom. You could use smaller drivers (JL8w7) and do left and right. Whats your budget?

EDIT... actually, maybe the vents could be on the side? Really need some dimensions or a working drawing... I sent a PM to somebody that should be able to help....

 

[walter duque]

If we can get some dimensions, we could easily design a DIY approach and have the vent exit where the toe kick would be. The driver could be mounted on the top with the vents exiting on the bottom. You could use smaller drivers (JL8w7) and do left and right. Whats your budget?

You mean something like I just posted on post #9?

 

[Bushka]

Maybe a sub like in link below might work for you?
http://www.sourcespeaker.com/UFS10P-12P.html

I'd like to avoid something floor mounted as a first option. Maybe plan B, but I really don't think cutting a hole in the floor is going to pass muster.

Thanks for the link.

 

[adwilk]

You mean something like I just posted on post #9?

yeah, thats definitely the shape... a DIY approach would allow the sub cabinet to be part of the structure.

 

[walter duque]

I'd like to avoid something floor mounted as a first option. Maybe plan B, but I really don't think cutting a hole in the floor is going to pass muster.

Thanks for the link.

It does not have to be floor mounted, also works freestanding. I just wanted to show you a sub design that might work for you.

 

[Bushka]

Well, when you say DIY are you talking about construction of the sub enclosure itself?

Also when you say left and right smaller subs, I would like to avoid running wire over to the cabinet on the left side of the fireplace...not sure that is what you meant, though.

As far as dimensions, I don't have exact measurements with me, but that short wall is about 22" deep, maybe a tad more. The width will be just under 4' wide. There really aren't any other dimensions as we haven't built the cabinet yet. If we end up with say a 14"x14"x18" high sub cabinet, then we can design the main cabinet around that. I expect the cabinet will be around 20" deep.

I'd like to keep the sub cost under say $500. Keep in mind we are using ceiling speakers everywhere else (and one model down from the "best" kevlar ones) so I'm not looking for the best of the best possible sound system. I want something really satisfying, but I don't feel I need to go too overboard. I've gone overboard with everything else instead.

 

[Bushka]

It does not have to be floor mounted, also works freestanding. I just wanted to show you a sub design that might work for you.

I see. Yes, using the toe kick area might work with this. I can't seem to interpret the overall size of the thing, though. I'd like to see what adwilk comes up with.

Thanks again.

 

[adwilk]

Yeah, I think you're better off constructing your own cabinet instead of purchasing a sub and sticking it in the hole (leave that alone guys )

That probably puts you at a usable cabinet of 1.8cuft. That is smallish for a vented sub, which from what I know, you'll have to have.

The JL Audio 8W7 will work in that enclosure size. Perhaps somebody here can model the port for you. Thats not what I do at all. I could do it, but somebody would have to fix it. The driver would mount on the top, the vent on the front at the bottom. obviously a shelf could be installed just above the driver to house your components.

The driver can be had for 270 and the o audio 500 watt bash amp can be had for 230, thats your budget plus shipping. You'll also need the materials for the cab and some accessories to get it goin. Figure 600 bucks. If that works, we can go from there and you'll have a fantastic sub.

That driver is a fantastic performer and will outperform many commercial subs at a much higher price point.

If you can come up with some better dimensions, post a question in the DIY section and have somebody model the 8w7. Actually, I'll start a thread.

 

[adwilk]

Thread HERE

 

[walter duque]

I see. Yes, using the toe kick area might work with this. I can't seem to interpret the overall size of the thing, though

.


Dimensions you can get from link below.
http://www.sourcespeaker.com/Sublist-2.html

 

[lsiberian]

I see. Yes, using the toe kick area might work with this. I can't seem to interpret the overall size of the thing, though. I'd like to see what adwilk comes up with.

Thanks again.

I see this as a possibility for a DIY sub as well. You already got the saw to make the cuts. On a project like this I'd really like TLS Guy or Wmax to give their input. But I can help you come up with an enclosure for each.