filler for fiberglass

[pjoseph]

can someone recommend a filler to spread over the box to fill small scratches and pin holes in the fiberglass?


I went to the home depot and saw some elmers wood filler but i am not sure if that is strong enough?

Also I read an article that said to thin the filler out and rub the entire box down, what filler can be thinned out and with what?

thanks

 

[highfigh]

can someone recommend a filler to spread over the box to fill small scratches and pin holes in the fiberglass?


I went to the home depot and saw some elmers wood filler but i am not sure if that is strong enough?

Also I read an article that said to thin the filler out and rub the entire box down, what filler can be thinned out and with what?

thanks

What box- speaker? For wood, metal, plastic or just about anything else, Bondo is about as good as it gets. Make sure the surface is clean and slightly rough, put it on in thin layers and don't mix it too "hot", like I tend to. Home Depot has it in quarts and gallons. It's fairly cheap, too.

You can also brush a coat of polyester resin on, too. Use a Bondo card to scrape off most of it, if you want. Spot putty for auto body repair is another good choice. PPG makes one that IIRC, is called Green Stuff.

 

[TLS Guy]

can someone recommend a filler to spread over the box to fill small scratches and pin holes in the fiberglass?


I went to the home depot and saw some elmers wood filler but i am not sure if that is strong enough?

Also I read an article that said to thin the filler out and rub the entire box down, what filler can be thinned out and with what?

thanks

For fiber glass you need to use auto body techniques.

You need to fill the defects with a flexible bonding putty. You could use Bondo, but it is basically junk. USC make excellent products.

This should do well on fiber glass.


Then you need to sand with progressively finer sandpaper, until you can no longer feel the defect with your thumb nail. If you can feel the defect before painting, you will see it big time after painting.

Then spray the primer, and then spray with two to three coats of of clear coat, about 20 min apart, with an auto sprayer gun. You need in line filters and preferably a wall mounted Dixon filter, to get the water out of the air line.

 

[pjoseph]

TLS can this item be found in stores or online only

thanks again

 

[TLS Guy]

TLS can this item be found in stores or online only

thanks again

These type of products will be found in businesses that supply auto body shops. Check with your local body shop, they will route you to good source of product. As usual the big box stores have junk, for which they charge too much.

 

[pjoseph]

I tried to sand down the fiberglass today and it seems like once i put it outside the heat made it a little tacky so sanding did not work to well.

it is in the 90's is this too hot to sand fiberglass, I did the last coat on thursday night so it had about 2 days to cure.

 

[TLS Guy]

I tried to sand down the fiberglass today and it seems like once i put it outside the heat made it a little tacky so sanding did not work to well.

it is in the 90's is this too hot to sand fiberglass, I did the last coat on thursday night so it had about 2 days to cure.

It sounds as if you have too much humidity, not enough hardener or both. Heat will make it cure quicker.

 

[pjoseph]

TLS, regarding the usc filler do you paint that on or does it get spread on with a putty knife?

I am feeling the pressure on this job now I am moving on aug 15th and I have no place to work on this thing in the new place so I need to get this done before I move.

Thanks again

 

[TLS Guy]

TLS, regarding the usc filler do you paint that on or does it get spread on with a putty knife?

I am feeling the pressure on this job now I am moving on aug 15th and I have no place to work on this thing in the new place so I need to get this done before I move.

Thanks again

There is a special little plastic spreader I use, that I get from my paint outfit, that supplies auto body shops.

 

[pjoseph]

I ordered the usc product from the link, should be here tomorrow.
what grit sandpaper should i use before i apply the filler does it need something to grab to?
Also it will probably be in the high 90's this weekend since i live in LA, is that going to cause problems?
Also if you have any pointers on using the stuff that would be great.

Thanks

 

[TLS Guy]

I ordered the usc product from the link, should be here tomorrow.
what grit sandpaper should i use before i apply the filler does it need something to grab to?
Also it will probably be in the high 90's this weekend since i live in LA, is that going to cause problems?
Also if you have any pointers on using the stuff that would be great.

Thanks

Around 150 grit should be fine, and finish with a purple Scotch Brite pad.

Get the surface clean before apply the filler. I use a product call Prep All.

If it is going to be 90, you will have to work fast. Get everything ready. Apply the filler quickly with a plastic straight edge. Do not over work. Get it as smooth as you can. When cured use 150 and finish with around 300 grit.

Blow off the dust with an air gun. Wipe with Prep All. Apply primer, in 20 min apply clear coat, and a thin coat every 20 min until you have a the luster you want.

I have to say a good compressed air driven spray gun, is a lot easier to use than spray cans.

This sort of work takes a lot of patience and experience. There is a reason for body shop charges.

It seems simple but it isn't. As body men have told me, it is the experience to know what to do when things start going wrong that counts, and something starts to go wrong with every job.

Good luck.

 

[pjoseph]

I was just reading the bottle and it says mix 2% hardener which is no help since i have no scale.

Then it says 1.5" ribbon to a 4" puddle
a puddle does not seem very clear to me I tried to call and they are closed until monday.

ribbon i assume is just a strip but i have no idea what a 4" puddle would be is that the radius?

if you could make sence of this i would appreciate.

 

[TLS Guy]

I was just reading the bottle and it says mix 2% hardener which is no help since i have no scale.

Then it says 1.5" ribbon to a 4" puddle
a puddle does not seem very clear to me I tried to call and they are closed until monday.

ribbon i assume is just a strip but i have no idea what a 4" puddle would be is that the radius?

if you could make sence of this i would appreciate.

At this point it would be really helpful of you could post photographs of what you are trying to do! A descriptive narrative would also be useful.

This started as a request for a filler for fiber glass. At this point I'm pretty sure you have no experience with body work. Body work is entirely patience, experience and judgment. So this is difficult at long range.

The 2% hardener is by volume. However there is judgment, as if it is hot and or working time on the long side you need a little less hardener. If you don't use enough hardener though the resin will stay sticky and you will never be able to paint it. If you use too much, it will set before you can work it.

You need to estimate how much product you need for the job, and make the ribbon, then make the puddle, put in the required hardener in the middle of the puddle and mix thoroughly.

Remember you are working against the clock especially if it is 90 degrees. Get every thing you need ready and handy before adding hardener. Play the job through in your mind. Apply the Prep All or similar product to the areas to be covered before mixing.

Once mixed apply and spread the mix with a flat edge plastic implement.

Allow to cure thoroughly before sanding. It is sufficiently cured to work when there is no stickiness to the touch.

A 4" puddle is four inches across, so a puddle with a 4" radius, would be an 8" puddle. So a 4" puddle is four inches in diameter. However these issues are not critical. Estimate the product you need well, and a little extra and mix resin and hardener quickly and thoroughly.

If this is your first time with a project of this nature, having a friend with some body shop experience guide you would be really helpful.

 

[Loren42]

At this point it would be really helpful of you could post photographs of what you are trying to do! A descriptive narrative would also be useful.

This started as a request for a filler for fiber glass. At this point I'm pretty sure you have no experience with body work. Body work is entirely patience, experience and judgment. So this is difficult at long range.

The 2% hardener is by volume. However there is judgment, as if it is hot and or working time on the long side you need a little less hardener. If you don't use enough hardener though the resin will stay sticky and you will never be able to paint it. If you use too much, it will set before you can work it.

You need to estimate how much product you need for the job, and make the ribbon, then make the puddle, put in the required hardener in the middle of the puddle and mix thoroughly.

Remember you are working against the clock especially if it is 90 degrees. Get every thing you need ready and handy before adding hardener. Play the job through in your mind. Apply the Prep All or similar product to the areas to be covered before mixing.

Once mixed apply and spread the mix with a flat edge plastic implement.

Allow to cure thoroughly before sanding. It is sufficiently cured to work when there is no stickiness to the touch.

A 4" puddle is four inches across, so a puddle with a 4" radius, would be an 8" puddle. So a 4" puddle is four inches in diameter. However these issues are not critical. Estimate the product you need well, and a little extra and mix resin and hardener quickly and thoroughly.

If this is your first time with a project of this nature, having a friend with some body shop experience guide you would be really helpful.

I would experiment first to get the mix ratios correct for the conditions. Once you have made a couple of test batches you will be better prepared for the real run.

You can get even better sanding results by finishing it with emory paper and wet sanding the fiberglass. You can get 600 grit or even higher, then there are polishes that can be used to remove any tiny scratch and swirl marks.

TLS Guy is right that it takes a lot of elbow grease and time to do it right.

 

[pjoseph]

TLS you are correct i have no experence with body work I used bondo a few times on some fiberglass kick panels on my old car a while back.
I just never came a across puddle in the description before.

Anyway thanks again for all you input I will be trying it out tomorrow and I will try not to bombard you with questions again.

Enjoy your weekend guys.

 

[TLS Guy]

TLS you are correct i have no experence with body work I used bondo a few times on some fiberglass kick panels on my old car a while back.
I just never came a across puddle in the description before.

Anyway thanks again for all you input I will be trying it out tomorrow and I will try not to bombard you with questions again.

Enjoy your weekend guys.

I will be on the road tomorrow heading for out Eagan residence for a few days. We have a lot of events planned for this weekend.