Kick in chest bass

[its_bacon12]

I just decided on two DIY subs that consist of Mach 5 Audio IXL 18.2.2 subwoofers in about 430 liters each tuned to 14 hz with an OAudio 500w plate amp on each.

That should be killer

 

[lsiberian]

I just decided on two DIY subs that consist of Mach 5 Audio IXL 18.2.2 subwoofers in about 430 liters each tuned to 14 hz with an OAudio 500w plate amp on each.

That should be killer

Don't use a the O Audio bash amp to power 2 subs.

Use a power amp paired with a Reckhorn B-1(100).

You can usually find. A QSC, Behringer, Crown, or Alesis for a good deal from a failed studio. Ep2500 is a great deal ATM at zzounds.com if you want new.

If you have some extra change get a Behringer FBD to eq the subs with REW.

 

[its_bacon12]

Don't use a the O Audio bash amp to power 2 subs.

Use a power amp paired with a Reckhorn B-1(100).

You can usually find. A QSC, Behringer, Crown, or Alesis for a good deal from a failed studio. Ep2500 is a great deal ATM at zzounds.com if you want new.

If you have some extra change get a Behringer FBD to eq the subs with REW.

I'll have one on each sub to clarify.

 

[lsiberian]

I'll have one on each sub to clarify.

An Ep2500 paired with a Reckhorn costs less, gives you more power, and a better high pass filter. Plus it gives you more space in your build for rockwool or fiber treatments.

I only suggest plate amps for single sub builds. If it's a personal preference that's fine, but if not then you should definitely go the pro-amp reckhorn way.

 

[slisgrinder]

how many audio equipment have you guys built ??? From the looks of it, you guys almost everything memorized!!! Kewl...

 

[its_bacon12]

An Ep2500 paired with a Reckhorn costs less, gives you more power, and a better high pass filter. Plus it gives you more space in your build for rockwool or fiber treatments.

I only suggest plate amps for single sub builds. If it's a personal preference that's fine, but if not then you should definitely go the pro-amp reckhorn way.

Well, I already have 1 o-audio 500 watt plate amp and I can get another one for a good price.

Plus I like built in peq on it. I'm planning on building separate enclosures for the plates outside of the sonotubes.

 

[lsiberian]

Well, I already have 1 o-audio 500 watt plate amp and I can get another one for a good price.

Plus I like built in peq on it. I'm planning on building separate enclosures for the plates outside of the sonotubes.

I have to pay tax on them so I will never go that route. The EP2500 is cheaper from zzounds for me lol. Dang sales tax.

 

[its_bacon12]

I have to pay tax on them so I will never go that route. The EP2500 is cheaper from zzounds for me lol. Dang sales tax.

Well that's unfortunate.

They're nice little amps too

 

[slisgrinder]

So, what if I went with the following method but vertical in the towers for the left/right/rear left/rear right:

[6" midrange] - [1 1/8" tweeter] - [6" midrange] - [8" woofer (these 8" woofers will be in a loaded horn enclosure integrated into the towers)]

Then for the subwoofer I am going to Opt for two 15" drivers in a vented enclosure similar to the Kappa build but have one in the front of the room and one at the back...

The woofer will be vented but the rest will be sealed... If I were to treat the mids individually, would it be OK to design them as such with their own seperate sealed chambers? Also should I have them in Parallel or Series? And I am going to assume that the tweeter doesn't need a chamber...

For the center, its the following but horizontal:
[6" midrange (ported)] - [1 1/8" tweeter] - [6" midrange - 6" midrange] - [1 1/8" tweeter] - [6" midrange (ported)]


Is this a sound design (no pun intended...)???

 

[its_bacon12]

So, what if I went with the following method but vertical in the towers for the left/right/rear left/rear right:

[6" midrange] - [1 1/8" tweeter] - [6" midrange] - [8" woofer (these 8" woofers will be in a loaded horn enclosure integrated into the towers)]

Then for the subwoofer I am going to Opt for two 15" drivers in a vented enclosure similar to the Kappa build but have one in the front of the room and one at the back...

The woofer will be vented but the rest will be sealed... If I were to treat the mids individually, would it be OK to design them as such with their own seperate sealed chambers? Also should I have them in Parallel or Series? And I am going to assume that the tweeter doesn't need a chamber...

For the center, its the following but horizontal:
[6" midrange (ported)] - [1 1/8" tweeter] - [6" midrange - 6" midrange] - [1 1/8" tweeter] - [6" midrange (ported)]


Is this a sound design (no pun intended...)???

So MTMW L, R, LS, RS and a MTMMTM C?

That set up sounds like it will be problematic from top to bottom.

As for the speakers, it really depends on what you choose. I'll forward you to HTGuide's Mission Accomplished DIY for some very sound designs.

There is a LOT more into designing a speaker than meets the eye, really, and it shouldn't be done for your first time by yourself. You'll get a bad first impression and will discount the DIY community as a viable option for you in the future.

Anyway, if you want to continue this start a new thread as this is about subs.

 

[slisgrinder]

MTMW for L, R, LS, RS and MTMMTM for C is correct. I will start a new thread for this build and for design help and you are absolutely correct about me needing help since I am a first timer at this. But I will never discount any DIY community as any mistake will be made by me and not others, but thanks for pointing it out...Thanks for your help guys, I will start a new thread labelled "1337 speaker design and build" and hopefully end up with a viable design.

 

[slisgrinder]

started a new thread in the DIY corner of this forum with the above mentioned topic label. Thanks again for your help guys...

 

[lsiberian]

Well that's unfortunate.

They're nice little amps too

Well my sub can take 1000 watts anyway.

 

[lsiberian]

So, what if I went with the following method but vertical in the towers for the left/right/rear left/rear right:

[6" midrange] - [1 1/8" tweeter] - [6" midrange] - [8" woofer (these 8" woofers will be in a loaded horn enclosure integrated into the towers)]

Then for the subwoofer I am going to Opt for two 15" drivers in a vented enclosure similar to the Kappa build but have one in the front of the room and one at the back...

The woofer will be vented but the rest will be sealed... If I were to treat the mids individually, would it be OK to design them as such with their own seperate sealed chambers? Also should I have them in Parallel or Series? And I am going to assume that the tweeter doesn't need a chamber...

For the center, its the following but horizontal:
[6" midrange (ported)] - [1 1/8" tweeter] - [6" midrange - 6" midrange] - [1 1/8" tweeter] - [6" midrange (ported)]


Is this a sound design (no pun intended...)???

First off. I don't suggest building a center unless you must have one. If you must have one you will want to use a Coaxial driver for the best results. The Loki Coaxial kit is a great deal. I suggest you use The TL design TLS guy uses or you build a sealed box.

The Loki is very capable of filling your room if you give it enough power. It comes with the crossover, but I haven't reviewed it to know how well it will work in your build.

Second I don't suggest you base your choices on woofer size. But instead quality and Frequency Response(FR)

If you want a MTM design then use the Dayton Recession Destroyer kit or one of the madisound ones.

For your bottom you will want to build a seperate module. Makes things much easier. I suggest you keep it sealed if you plan to add subs later on. Or if you want to use them as subs you can do a narrow ported design with the JL Audio 8w7s. The 8w7s are very capable of delivering response flat to 20hz.

Either way they are the best 8" drivers around from my modeling. If you can afford them look at the tag band line.

For a 15" sub I suggest the audiopulse 15" axis.

If your using 8" drivers in your speakers you should only need a single sub for the below 50hz range. You can use a DCX2496 to integrate 3 front speakers 2 Mid Bass 8"modules and a single sub.

I've thrown a lot out here. These are ideas.

When designing your boxes remember to account for bracing and dampening(rockwool or fiber) as well as a constraint layer.

 

[its_bacon12]

Well my sub can take 1000 watts anyway.

Thermally, most likely but it's hard to say that it can mechanically unless you've actually done the testing yourself in that situation.

 

[lsiberian]

Thermally, most likely but it's hard to say that it can mechanically unless you've actually done the testing yourself in that situation.

It' s a TC Sounds built sub. I have no doubt it can handle 1000 watts. Not that I will ever give it that for real. I think 110db is more than enough for me.

But I'm not even to that build yet. It's been raining lately so I haven't got to flush trim my MBM cuts.

 

[CraigV]

Wait, did you say bass, or bass?

 

[its_bacon12]

Wait, did you say bass, or bass?

LOL

 

[16hz lover]

They reason you had the kick you in your chest bass at the theatre is because they were using large horn loaded bass cabinets...very high efficiency, very low distortion, moving large amounts of horn loaded air.

These were developed back in the 1930's. Here is a picture of a RCA speaker designed for theatres....ran on 25 watts total.

 

[Sheep]

Wow, lots of numbers being thrown around, not a whole lot of productive conversation.

Any subwoofer can give you that chest thumping bass, as that bass is not related to enclosures, but frequencies and amplitudes. Ported subwoofers are the most efficient at producing high SPLs, and decently cheap when you use the right parts. I would build 2 subwoofers, and place them in opposing corners for your setup. The kappa build x2 would be perfect.

I wouldn't go too crazy with the speakers. Lots of drivers are nice, but if it isn't build properly (IE, low resonance cabinets, proper baffles, proper crossover points) you will end up with lobbing and diffraction issues. I cannot say what will work together, nor what is best, but the DIY section should have lots of this information covered. Personally, you can buy a set of bookshelfs and modify them to improve the cabinet. It will be much simpler and yield great results.

SheepStar