JL Audio Fathom Series

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Method

Junior Audioholic
I hear ya. Thx so much to all you guys who chimed in. I have received a lot of great input over the years from this joint.
 
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mustang90

Audioholic Intern
if you are looking into jl, check audiogon. there is always a list of new and used 112's and 113's there at great prices.
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord
The Velodyne DD series would also fit the bill, with the DD15 and DD18 being the the ones that can complete with the above mentioned.

SheepStar
 
Chopin_Guy

Chopin_Guy

Senior Audioholic
I am not too sure where you are in terms of your search or budget since the many comments at the beginning of this thread to consider ID companies and DIY. However, if you are still considering going the high-end brand route, then you may also want to look into the Paradigm Signature SUB-25. I have not heard one but I read a review of it last night that sounded very impressive and that particular write-up favored the Paradigm over the F113 which direct comparisons were made to...

I have no idea what kind of price it is---it's certainly in the $3k + bracket--but the specs look *very* impressive with a 3,000 watt RMS amp, with 7,500 watt peak and a stated extension down to 9hz (that's an in room response I assume). Seems it might be work a look...
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
I have not heard one but I read a review of it last night that sounded very impressive and that particular write-up favored the Paradigm over the F113 which direct comparisons were made to...

Link to review...?
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
Looks like in that review they used a picture of the Signature Servo, as it has grill holes for removal, but the Sub 25's grill is not removable..... :confused::mad:

See Here...


 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Simly put, a couple of pre-fabbed/pre-painted cabinets from www.partsexpress.com and a couple of JL 12W7 drivers from a discount seller (about $450 each) plus a Behringer DCX2496 controller and a Yamaha P7000S amplifier(about 1000WRMS x 2 @ 4 Ohms), and you have your premium quality subs at a low price. Why even consider buying the JL Fathoms? You will get the same performance for far lower price with the above combination.

If you have a jig saw, you are good. If not, $20-$30 will buy one. All you have to do is cut a hole for the driver in the pre-finished cabinet. I'll tell you which setting to enter into the DCX controller. If you want more bracing in the cabinet, you only need to cut some oak wood and glue it in. Easy. You don't need any prior experience in woodworking. You can even pay a car audio shop like $30 to cut the holes and install the drivers if you are not up to it.

-Chris
 
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biffbyun

Enthusiast
I can definitely vouch for the F113. I have 2 setup in my heavily treated theater. One nearfield and the other along the front wall controlled by an SMS-1. I have PSB Synchrony's up front and I have to say they keep up very well.

I have tried various subs such as SVS (PC-12, PB-12 Ultra), HSU, VTF-2, VTF 3.3, Velo DD-15, DD-18, but not the Ultra13. Through the course of owning these subs, my tastes have gravitated more towards the sealed designs as I perceived them to be more accurate and I guess I formed an aversion to ported designs just from comparative analysis. For me, the quickness of the sealed design, the fast decay, just appealed to me. Although I prefer this for home theater as well as music, I would venture to say that at least half, maybe even the majority would prefer ported designs for home theater use just from a "sound signature" perspective.

The PB13 Ultra seems to be a huge step from the 12 so for me to make any assumptions on its performance based on my experiences of the 12 would be a stretch. I had no hesitation suggesting it for a new install for a friend/client of mine.

Having said all this, for me, I love my twin F113's and would not consider trading them for PB13's. Especially since street pricing for the F113's is no where near their retail whereas the PB13's street value is very close or equal to their retail since it's ID. I would strongly consider the Submersive though since I don't have to worry about aesthetics as much in my man cave.

But just to reiterate, at this point it really is splitting hairs. These are all great options that you can't go wrong with.

Good luck with your search.
 
Chopin_Guy

Chopin_Guy

Senior Audioholic
What are the weigh size constraints....the F113 is a very fine sub and $2,100 is a good price but you can certainly get more performance for that amount as many have already said. Also you have not stated your room size...not that a F113 won't be able to fill it but if you have a large space or like lots of slam in your home theater a single sub might not do it...
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Size and weight ARE factors.
What about the option I suggested (using pre-fabbed cabinets) and buying raw JL W7 drivers to mount in the cabinets? This requires zero skill. Just a jig saw. You can have twin subs for the price of a single Fathom, and with more control over sound quality using the DCX2496 processor I recommend using in combination with them. If money is a factor, this is an option. The Parts Express cabinets I recommend are about 3 cubic feet, being a little less than 20" cubed in dimension.

-Chris
 
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mesojdm

Audioholic Intern
^ I have been interested in doing the exact setup. But upon looking at the parts express boxes...they are 3/4" thick MDF. The w7 is a HEAVY motha. They strongly suggest using at least 1-1.5" thick on the front baffle. Maybe build another front panel?
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
^ I have been interested in doing the exact setup. But upon looking at the parts express boxes...they are 3/4" thick MDF. The w7 is a HEAVY motha. They strongly suggest using at least 1-1.5" thick on the front baffle. Maybe build another front panel?
3/4" is actually fine. The 12W7 driver weighs 45 pounds and has many more mounting screw holes as compared to most woofers. Now, do not ship it with the woofer installed, unless the driver is sitting upwards. But for actual fixed use(where it is not being dropped/banged around such as in shipping), it will be fine. Now, it may be wise to add in some bracing in the Parts Expres box. But that's easy. Just use 1" x 3" or 1" x 4" oak boards and glue them in the sides to add in strong ribs.

-Chris
 
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