Enclosure for 12W6

[new2thisHT]

OK I am in the slow process of building my first real home entertainment system. I have recently purchased an Emo UPA-7, awaiting UMC-1 and currently seeking fronts and surrounds (undecided.) I was directed here for additional info & help (design) with a DIY sub enclosure for my JL 12W6V2s. From what I’ve read I gather I am far better off with a vented enclosure. Correct? I have some experience building basic enclosures and my brother in law builds cabinets and has a nice workshop that I use. Room size is 20x15x9 with an 8 foot opening to the foyer.

Isiberian suggests using the Kappa box that is in the DIY section along with an EP 1500 or 2500 along with a DCX 2496. Is this my best option? Also I have 4 of these subs and was curious on any thoughts of using more than 1, overkill? Any suggestions on my fronts are welcome also.
Thanks in advance.

 

[jamie2112]

Well the Kappa perfect build is really for the Infinity speaker. There are alot of variables to the design of your sub. I would say that no, 2 subs are not overkill ,(just ask Mike C) In fact the more subs the merrier methinks. There are also quite a few very qualified sub and speaker designers on this site. Wmax and Averserfi as well as Haloeb and Warpdv...Go ahead and look around the DIY section of this forum and I think therein lies your answers. Best of luck to you and DIY subs are your best bet. The EP 2500 will power a pair of the JL's just fine....

 

[lsiberian]

OK I am in the slow process of building my first real home entertainment system. I have recently purchased an Emo UPA-7, awaiting UMC-1 and currently seeking fronts and surrounds (undecided.) I was directed here for additional info & help (design) with a DIY sub enclosure for my JL 12W6V2s. From what I’ve read I gather I am far better off with a vented enclosure. Correct? I have some experience building basic enclosures and my brother in law builds cabinets and has a nice workshop that I use. Room size is 20x15x9 with an 8 foot opening to the foyer.

Isiberian suggests using the Kappa box that is in the DIY section along with an EP 1500 or 2500 along with a DCX 2496. Is this my best option? Also I have 4 of these subs and was curious on any thoughts of using more than 1, overkill? Any suggestions on my fronts are welcome also.
Thanks in advance.

Since this is your first system I can't honestly tell you what the best possible enclosure is. But from what I can tell you want extension. So I would say that a modified the Kappa Box would be sufficient for this driver.

Using more subs makes room response better. As a result you get better response. With 4 corner loaded subs you would have a dream LFE in your theater. For Fronts I suggest another DIY approach. For this I suggest a sealed approach since you are using very good drivers for the subs. You only need a 2 way for each speaker because your subs can handle the sub 100hz region with ease. I suggest a Kit for a first timer. Madisound has very good deal going on their Recession Buster Kit. You get decent driver and a crossover for a pretty penny. You don't even need to solder if you get their connectors. I do suggest using 18 gauge wire for the internal wiring. 16 gauge doesn't feed very will into their connectors or solder connectors. A well built box can give you very high quality sound and great even response.

Of course this is one of many options.

 

[lsiberian]

Well the Kappa perfect build is really for the Infinity speaker. There are alot of variables to the design of your sub. I would say that no, 2 subs are not overkill ,(just ask Mike C) In fact the more subs the merrier methinks. There are also quite a few very qualified sub and speaker designers on this site. Wmax and Averserfi as well as Haloeb and Warpdv...Go ahead and look around the DIY section of this forum and I think therein lies your answers. Best of luck to you and DIY subs are your best bet. The EP 2500 will power a pair of the JL's just fine....

Just an FYI

It actually models very well in the box, but I imagine Wmax has the actual parameter for the sub I only pulled the ones from their website

The box was actually based of a JL Audio 12w7 design accord to Wmax. The w6 appears to be similar in response. Generally speaking the way the sub is designed gives a good idea on how to build a great ported sub. The large folded port slot allows you to get a nice low tuning while keeping the port velocity low plus the bracing is well done. Those 4 folks are the ones I learned most of what I know that's correct from. Toss in TLS Guy too. We got some really sharp folks here.

I suggest you try modeling your sub in WinISD alpha. It's a fun program to learn and very useful.

 

[Matt34]

Well the Kappa perfect build is really for the Infinity speaker. There are alot of variables to the design of your sub. I would say that no, 2 subs are not overkill ,(just ask Mike C) In fact the more subs the merrier methinks. There are also quite a few very qualified sub and speaker designers on this site. Wmax and Averserfi as well as Haloeb and Warpdv...Go ahead and look around the DIY section of this forum and I think therein lies your answers. Best of luck to you and DIY subs are your best bet. The EP 2500 will power a pair of the JL's just fine....

Actually WmAx said the 12w6/7 would work extremely well in the Kappa boxes.

You don't need four of them, send a couple my way.

 

[new2thisHT]

Actually WmAx said the 12w6/7 would work extremely well in the Kappa boxes.

You don't need four of them, send a couple my way.

Any help with that post?

I actually was tring to post on the classified section but I guess since Im a newbie I cant at the moment, not sure why.

Are you interested because I could use the money toward the amp and eq?

 

[Matt34]

Any help with that post?

I actually was tring to post on the classified section but I guess since Im a newbie I cant at the moment, not sure why.

Are you interested because I could use the money toward the amp and eq?

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=555244&postcount=5

If I can sell a couple of my subs I'd be interested but I'm broke atm.

You need 25 posts to post in the classifieds.

 

[lsiberian]

Any help with that post?

I actually was tring to post on the classified section but I guess since Im a newbie I cant at the moment, not sure why.

Are you interested because I could use the money toward the amp and eq?

I suggest you post a bit more before you sell anything. People will trust you more then and your more likely to sell. Just a thought though.

 

[fast1]

i agree, just to gain more credibilty.

 

[new2thisHT]

Just an FYI

It actually models very well in the box, but I imagine Wmax has the actual parameter for the sub I only pulled the ones from their website

The box was actually based of a JL Audio 12w7 design accord to Wmax. The w6 appears to be similar in response. Generally speaking the way the sub is designed gives a good idea on how to build a great ported sub. The large folded port slot allows you to get a nice low tuning while keeping the port velocity low plus the bracing is well done. Those 4 folks are the ones I learned most of what I know that's correct from. Toss in TLS Guy too. We got some really sharp folks here.

I suggest you try modeling your sub in WinISD alpha. It's a fun program to learn and very useful.

Thanks for the program I will look into it

 

[new2thisHT]

I suggest you post a bit more before you sell anything. People will trust you more then and your more likely to sell. Just a thought though.

I figured thats what it was. Well I have had them for a while so I will post them at a later date.

Thanks for the program to by the way.

The EP 2500 looks like the way to go for sure and I might as well use 2 subs since I have them and the amp will run both. Why not!

 

[lsiberian]

I figured thats what it was. Well I have had them for a while so I will post them at a later date.

Thanks for the program to by the way.

The EP 2500 looks like the way to go for sure and I might as well use 2 subs since I have them and the amp will run both. Why not!

If the SPL isn't enough that way. Then you can probably get another EP 2500. I'm pretty sure these subs can take an ep2500 each. And don't forget to get an SMS or DCX.

 

[new2thisHT]

If the SPL isn't enough that way. Then you can probably get another EP 2500. I'm pretty sure these subs can take an ep2500 each. And don't forget to get an SMS or DCX.

The ep2500 specs show 650w at 4 ohm per channel and 12W6V2 states the "danger zone" is around 500 watts. Wouldnt one amp be sufficient?

You think I could use 1 ep2500 per sub?

 

[lsiberian]

The ep2500 specs show 650w at 4 ohm per channel and 12W6V2 states the "danger zone" is around 500 watts. Wouldnt one amp be sufficient?

You think I could use 1 ep2500 per sub?

I would honestly just get 1 ep1500. The SPL levels will be sufficient for most folks. If you need more you are just a Bass crazy mofo.

Be sure to do the price match thing with zzounds. You can get a nice deal that way.

 

[new2thisHT]

So I would say that a modified the Kappa Box would be sufficient for this driver.

Of course this is one of many options.

Does anyone have any idea on how I would go about modifying the Kappa box to accomodate my JL 12W6? What im looking for are dimensions for the port & box for my W6. Any detailed information is appreciated. Or if anyone knows of someone willing to help design a box for my sub that would be great as I have limited experience in the "design" of enclosures.

I have been searching threads and have lots of questions but do not know how to go about asking without hijacking the threads.

 

[lsiberian]

Does anyone have any idea on how I would go about modifying the Kappa box to accomodate my JL 12W6? What im looking for are dimensions for the port & box for my W6. Any detailed information is appreciated. Or if anyone knows of someone willing to help design a box for my sub that would be great as I have limited experience in the "design" of enclosures.

I have been searching threads and have lots of questions but do not know how to go about asking without hijacking the threads.

I know it all seems complex, but it's very simple. Just move back the brace behind the driver to accommodate the additional depth.

I have already detailed the math for this.

Depth of your driver - kappa driver depth. = the amount to move back the big brace. Leave everything else alone. and you will have a great sub.

 

[annunaki]

In modeling the 12W6v2, The nicest solution I could see was a 5.0ft^3 enclosure (net volume) tuned to 20hz with a 2.5" x 16" vent 47.56" long. This yielded an F3 of 19hz. I would highly suggest using an infrasonic filter 4th order at 15hz.

In room response would be quite solid in the range of the F3.

 

[lsiberian]

In modeling the 12W6v2, The nicest solution I could see was a 5.0ft^3 enclosure (net volume) tuned to 20hz with a 2.5" x 16" vent 47.56" long. This yielded an F3 of 19hz. I would highly suggest using an infrasonic filter 4th order at 15hz.

In room response would be quite solid in the range of the F3.

That's a really large port. I would make it a tad taller and pull it in a bit on the sides. It will allow you to get more cuts out of your wood. Even an 8th on each side would give you enough space to get 3 pieces out of one 2' x 4' section.

I suggest a 3" x 15.5" vent 55" long if you plan to push the driver hard. That rear port air velocity is a tad high for me in the other port at more than 400 watts.

 

[annunaki]

With the appropriate filters (infrasonic at 15hz 4th order) the vent velocity is at 15.5 m/s. I fail to see where this is an issue at all?


How does this allow you to get more cuts out of the wood? There is always more than one way to cut your material much less put it together??

Using more than 400 watts will be unnecessary in nearly any application with this driver under normal usage.

 

[new2thisHT]

In modeling the 12W6v2, The nicest solution I could see was a 5.0ft^3 enclosure (net volume) tuned to 20hz with a 2.5" x 16" vent 47.56" long. This yielded an F3 of 19hz. I would highly suggest using an infrasonic filter 4th order at 15hz.

In room response would be quite solid in the range of the F3.

Am I understanding you correctly, for the kappa enclosure to accomodate the W6V2 the only mod would be the vent dimensions?