Simple 12" Infinity Kappa VQ MidQ Plans

[Matt34]

That is only 2.5lb/ft^3 you would ideally want 8lb/ft^3. Don't forget OC705 will work as well in fact 703 will work if you can't find 705.

How about this?

http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--Owens-Corning-703--1002.html

 

[avaserfi]

Don't cheap out. Get this: http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--Owens-Corning-705-2-inch-Single-Pieces--1020.html

$10 bucks more and better performance at the frequencies in question.

 

[Matt34]

Ordered, hopefully they will fix my boo-boo on the first order.

 

[adoika]

Slot length

I am planning to build this design but have a quick question regarding the slot length. I plan on flush mounting the driver by adding another front fascia like Haoleb did but I am also thinking of adding a trim piece around the actual slot opening in order to facilitate a grill. This is going to add around 43mm or 1 & 3/4" for you seppos. Will this adversly affect the tuning of the port? Would removing the corresponding amount from the port opening be advised?

Thanks to the OP for providing these plans and to all the patrons of this fine board for providing the excellent and invaluable information here.

Oh I better introduce myself, I am an Aussie who has been searching for a while for a new project and always thought building my own speakers would be a fun and exciting thing to do. Especially after blowing up my current sub after an overenthusiastic viewing of Iron Man

 

[A9X]

I am an Aussie who has been searching for a while for a new project and always thought building my own speakers would be a fun and exciting thing to do.

Where are you getting the driver(s) from?
I'm also in Oz.

 

[Matt34]

Got an email from my builder saying the subs are done, just need staining. I'm going out there tomorrow so expect some pics.

 

[Haoleb]

I am planning to build this design but have a quick question regarding the slot length. I plan on flush mounting the driver by adding another front fascia like Haoleb did but I am also thinking of adding a trim piece around the actual slot opening in order to facilitate a grill. This is going to add around 43mm or 1 & 3/4" for you seppos. Will this adversly affect the tuning of the port? Would removing the corresponding amount from the port opening be advised?

Thanks to the OP for providing these plans and to all the patrons of this fine board for providing the excellent and invaluable information here.

Oh I better introduce myself, I am an Aussie who has been searching for a while for a new project and always thought building my own speakers would be a fun and exciting thing to do. Especially after blowing up my current sub after an overenthusiastic viewing of Iron Man

One thing you could also do is simply shorten it by the same amount on the inside. Although I dont think its going to affect it by very much.

 

[armstrr]

One thing you could also do is simply shorten it by the same amount on the inside. Although I dont think its going to affect it by very much.

if you do shorten it inside...shorten the small brace by the same amount to ensure there is room for the driver

 

[adoika]

Where are you getting the driver(s) from?
I'm also in Oz.

I got them from caraudiowarehouse.com.au (cant add links due to low post count). They are unfortunately a fair bit more expensive than what our American counterparts are able to source them for. There are a number of eBay stores that will ship to Aus as well as some internet shops but I found that once you factor in the exchange rate and shipping that the price works out to be only a couple of hundred cheaper. The reason I went with an Australian based company is for the peace of mind. If anything goes wrong with the drivers I only have to pay about $60 to ship back as opposed to nearly $200 if I were to get them OS.

One thing you could also do is simply shorten it by the same amount on the inside. Although I dont think its going to affect it by very much.

Yes this is what I was thinking. But best to make sure.

if you do shorten it inside...shorten the small brace by the same amount to ensure there is room for the driver

?Short brace. I was thinking of lopping an inch or two from the port opening/upper slot thingy

 

[armstrr]

I got them from caraudiowarehouse.com.au (cant add links due to low post count). They are unfortunately a fair bit more expensive than what our American counterparts are able to source them for. There are a number of eBay stores that will ship to Aus as well as some internet shops but I found that once you factor in the exchange rate and shipping that the price works out to be only a couple of hundred cheaper. The reason I went with an Australian based company is for the peace of mind. If anything goes wrong with the drivers I only have to pay about $60 to ship back as opposed to nearly $200 if I were to get them OS.



Yes this is what I was thinking. But best to make sure.



?Short brace. I was thinking of lopping an inch or two from the port opening/upper slot thingy

the short brace is the horizontal brace that goes between the back vertical length of the port and the large vertical brace...which is what the back of the driver is closest too once mounted. hope this helps

 

[A9X]

I got them from caraudiowarehouse.com.au (cant add links due to low post count). They are unfortunately a fair bit more expensive than what our American counterparts are able to source them for.

Thanks for that. At $A599 they are out of consideration in comparison to the Shiva at $A310.

 

[adoika]

the short brace is the horizontal brace that goes between the back vertical length of the port and the large vertical brace...which is what the back of the driver is closest too once mounted. hope this helps

Yep got that. What I don't understand is how shortening the actual brace will adjust the length of the actual port.

 

[adoika]

Thanks for that. At $A599 they are out of consideration in comparison to the Shiva at $A310.

Believe me mate I thought long and hard regarding the price of this project + the fact that they were $350ish a few weeks before I pulled the trigger. But I was going to get a couple of pb13 ultras so I just told myself that I am in fact saving money although probably not as much as I would of liked to. ie price of furniture grade plywood (if you can find the damn stuff) is ridiculous down under.. I hope they end up sounding as good as I am hoping.

 

[armstrr]

Yep got that. What I don't understand is how shortening the actual brace will adjust the length of the actual port.

it won't change the port, it will make room so the driver does not hit the large brace/insulation. if you leave the dimensions the same, but flush mount, you must move the mounting surface back towards the brace/insulation. shortening the short brace by the amount that you inset the front baffel insures you keep the same distance.

now if you make the sub box longer by adding a front piece, no change to the short brace is required. sorry if i wasn't clear earlier

 

[adoika]

^^^^^
Righto I get you now. I will be adding a second front baffle to flush mount the driver so will not be effecting the distance of the rear of the driver to the large cross brace.

Perhaps I was unclear in my original posting. I am questioning whether adding pieces to the outside of the box, thus increasing the port length, will adversly affect the port tuning.

 

[Matt34]

We're a couple days behind schedule on mine. He is staining them this morning so I should be picking them up tomorrow. I'm still waiting on the OC705 to show up from ATS Acoustics anyways.

 

[Matt34]

Got my OC705 today.

[/IMG]

 

[ras123]

So I finished the sub and hooked it up tonight. pre amp sub out from receiver to f-mod to sub cable (3ft) y split (1 female to 2 males) into clean box to convert to xlr and xlr (3ft) to the eu2500. all i get is this low hum, and when i turn the signal up enough for the eu2500 signal light to come on the hum is so loud you can not hear the sub, if i unlug the the clean box all my speakers are humless once again, but i lose the sub. this is my first real sub, what do I need to do to fix this?

 

[armstrr]

So I finished the sub and hooked it up tonight. pre amp sub out from receiver to f-mod to sub cable (3ft) y split (1 female to 2 males) into clean box to convert to xlr and xlr (3ft) to the eu2500. all i get is this low hum, and when i turn the signal up enough for the eu2500 signal light to come on the hum is so loud you can not hear the sub, if i unlug the the clean box all my speakers are humless once again, but i lose the sub. this is my first real sub, what do I need to do to fix this?

try the fmod as close to the amp as possible...might help a bit, but it sounds like you are getting noise introduced somewhere, or have a ground loop

 

[sawzalot]

I was just wondering about actual placement of the driver of course centered side to side but what about top to top of port slot is there an exact dimension for this placement Thanks in advance ..