Epson 1080 Screen Suggestion? Size, throw, AT or not, etc suggestions welcomed.

[ErinH]

…Well, to keep the other threads from going OT and to be a bit more specific about my own setup, I’ve decided to start my own thread…

Currently my house is being built so the plans for the HT are undecided. Though, I have a real good idea of the components I want to go with I haven’t purchased anything and won’t for a few months.

A few specifics:
The general layout currently is 23x23x8’. I’m probably going to shorten a wall somewhere to make it un-square.
- The room will be carpeted and the walls will likely be painted a chocolate brown (per the wife).
- The room will have a large window on the left side, but will be blacked out while we live there. It’s only going in for resale.
- I’m likely going to go with an Epson 1080 FP for video. Based on reviews, I figure it’s one of the best bang for the buck units.
- The speakers I’m doing are a DIY. They have not been built and probably won’t be until I get moved into the house.
- I had originally planned to go with 3 matching towers up front for L/R/C becauseI like the idea of a vertical center.
- Room is solely an HT room. Occasional TV watching maybe, but I figure the use will be very minimal.

The problem comes into play with the screen and the budget. I was figuring maybe 300-400 for a screen given that my room will be pitch black and I won’t need a screen to make up for the room’s shortcomings in this case. I honestly haven’t had much time at all to research screen specs and study up on them. Most of my time has been dedicated to other things concerning the build itself and not the audio/video. But, I did check projectorcentral.com and found that 97” is a recommended screen size. I could live with that. Obviously, I’d like to go larger, but I’ll just let you guys give me your input.
Honestly, I’m having a bit of trouble interpreting the results, but it looks like I could sit well with a throw of ~14' and a screen diagonal of 102".
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_1080-projection-calculator-pro.htm
Recommended seating distance according the that is 10-16’, which is plenty for me given room size. Maybe we could step the screen size down a tad.





The real issue came when I realized that I’d need an acoustically transparent screen to accommodate a vertical center. While I’m not dead set on this, it’s just something I had wanted. If it can’t happen due to budget, then so be it.


So, it really comes down the the budget and AT or not.

I’d appreciate thoughts and opinions on things overall. Since I’ve not picked anything out I can make the ‘right’ moves to accommodate my budget to get the best bang for the buck.

Thanks to anyone with some $.02. I’m open to any and all suggestions.

- Erin

 

[lsiberian]

…Well, to keep the other threads from going OT and to be a bit more specific about my own setup, I’ve decided to start my own thread…

Currently my house is being built so the plans for the HT are undecided. Though, I have a real good idea of the components I want to go with I haven’t purchased anything and won’t for a few months.

A few specifics:
The general layout currently is 23x23x8’. I’m probably going to shorten a wall somewhere to make it un-square.
- The room will be carpeted and the walls will likely be painted a chocolate brown (per the wife).
- The room will have a large window on the left side, but will be blacked out while we live there. It’s only going in for resale.
- I’m likely going to go with an Epson 1080 FP for video. Based on reviews, I figure it’s one of the best bang for the buck units.
- The speakers I’m doing are a DIY. They have not been built and probably won’t be until I get moved into the house.
- I had originally planned to go with 3 matching towers up front for L/R/C becauseI like the idea of a vertical center.
-

The problem comes into play with the screen and the budget. I was figuring maybe 300-400 for a screen given that my room will be pitch black and I won’t need a screen to make up for the room’s shortcomings in this case. I honestly haven’t had much time at all to research screen specs and study up on them. Most of my time has been dedicated to other things concerning the build itself and not the audio/video. But, I did check projectorcentral.com and found that 97” is a recommended screen size. I could live with that. Obviously, I’d like to go larger, but I’ll just let you guys give me your input.
Honestly, I’m having a bit of trouble interpreting the results:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_1080-projection-calculator-pro.htm


The real issue came when I realized that I’d need an acoustically transparent screen to accommodate a vertical center. While I’m not dead set on this, it’s just something I had wanted. If it can’t happen due to budget, then so be it.


So, it really comes down the the budget and AT or not.

I’d appreciate thoughts and opinions on things overall. Since I’ve not picked anything out I can make the ‘right’ moves to accommodate my budget to get the best bang for the buck.

Thanks to anyone with some $.02. I’m open to any and all suggestions.

- Erin

Erin you don't need an AT screen to use towers. You can put your screen starting at the top of the towers and be just fine for viewing angles. If you are concerned about the angle I suggest a step up for the seating or that you shorten the height of your center speaker(since its DIY) You only need to maintain the volume and can modify the dimensions a bit. Then you can put the LR towers to the sides of the screen. For a screen I suggest a carada if you are on a budget. Get a white one like this http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=PROJECTION-SCREEN-H096C.

FYI your DIY speakers will likely sound great even slightly off axis and shouldn't suffer too much at a slight angle. Your being a perfectionist(think like an engineer). Good enough is the phrase you need to start using. You can't make a perfect theater. Even with an unlimited budget so just make one that's good enough. Have fun.

Why towers? this is a home theater not a listening room. You can put 2 to 4 subs in the room and have plenty of great bass response. leaving you no need for a tower.

 

[ErinH]

Erin you don't need an AT screen to use towers. You can put your screen starting at the top of the towers and be just fine for viewing angles. If you are concerned about the angle I suggest a step up for the seating or that you shorten the height of your center speaker(since its DIY) You only need to maintain the volume and can modify the dimensions a bit. Then you can put the LR towers to the sides of the screen. For a screen I suggest a carada if you are on a budget. Get a white one like this http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=PROJECTION-SCREEN-H096C.

FYI your DIY speakers will likely sound great even slightly off axis and shouldn't suffer too much at a slight angle. Your being a perfectionist(think like an engineer). Good enough is the phrase you need to start using. You can't make a perfect theater. Even with an unlimited budget so just make one that's good enough. Have fun.

Why towers? this is a home theater not a listening room. You can put 2 to 4 subs in the room and have plenty of great bass response. leaving you no need for a tower.

Thanks for the reply.
I use the term ‘tower’ loosely in this case. Actually, it’s more of an enlarged bookshelf. These are the exact enclosures I’ll be using:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=302-751

I was going to use a stand to put them all on. You actually bring up a good point about putting the center under the screen. With an 8’ ceiling, and these ‘towers’ which are ~2’ tall, I still have 6’ of height to use for the screen which should suffice, I would think.
I guess my only real concern in that case would be that the speaker is on the ground. Maybe I could use a stand about 1’ tall to raise the speaker off the floor a bit. Then still use a decent sized stand for the side speakers. I’ll be using this room for music about 20% of the time, but this is almost exclusively an HT room.

As for subs, I’m going to build a manifold in the front wall and mount 2-4 AE ib15s. probably start with 2 to begin with, though. If I need more, I’ll add them later.

‘good enough’ is fine by me. I’m just trying to make sure I understand what I’m doing, and squeeze every bit of value I can for the dollar. I’m not even doing room treatments short of a few placed panels and bass traps. I’m being realistic about the use of this room and going gung-ho on a room that won’t be used much more than once a week would be severe overkill. In fact, I’ve scaled my budget back by nearly half, now.

Thanks again!

 

[jostenmeat]

Currently my house is being built so the plans for the HT are undecided. Though, I have a real good idea of the components I want to go with I haven’t purchased anything and won’t for a few months.

8' high is mandatory? Higher would be quite nice acoustically.

A few specifics:
The general layout currently is 23x23x8’. I’m probably going to shorten a wall somewhere to make it un-square.

Definitely.

- I’m likely going to go with an Epson 1080 FP for video. Based on reviews, I figure it’s one of the best bang for the buck units.

Fo shizzle, but as far as a direct competitor, check out the programmable preset capability of the Pana 3000. This means you can do a different AR than 16:9, such as 2.40:1, which then in turn gives you some cool factor, and more height to play with. No need for anamorphic lens, sliding mechanism, video processing, etc. The only thing you will need to make sure of is blacking out the front wall very well.

- I had originally planned to go with 3 matching towers up front for L/R/C becauseI like the idea of a vertical center.

fo shizzle

The problem comes into play with the screen and the budget. I was figuring maybe 300-400 for a screen given that my room will be pitch black and I won’t need a screen to make up for the room’s shortcomings in this case.

If that's the realistic budget, I'm not so sure that there is anything worth getting as AT. In fact, even with the best AT screens out there, there are those who think they still can't be as nice as a non-AT screen that can have optical coating. But at this budget, forget it I say. Please remember the Pana 3000 and it's easy "anamorphic" capability, as that will afford you more height to play with, assuming the same screen width.

But, I did check projectorcentral.com and found that 97” is a recommended screen size. I could live with that. Obviously, I’d like to go larger, but I’ll just let you guys give me your input.
Honestly, I’m having a bit of trouble interpreting the results, but it looks like I could sit well with a throw of ~14' and a screen diagonal of 102".
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_1080-projection-calculator-pro.htm
Recommended seating distance according the that is 10-16’, which is plenty for me given room size. Maybe we could step the screen size down a tad.

By far, the most common and best advice I give to those setting up their first PJ system is this:

FIRE THE PIC AT THE BLANK WALL FOR A FEW DAYS.

Yes, that needed to be boldfaced. I spent a week myself. Do not build sub manifolds, etc, until you have either selected size, or that the placements are far enough way to make it an absolute impossibility that they will impinge on screen size. I do mean impossible, btw. I can share horror stories with you, if you want.

The real issue came when I realized that I’d need an acoustically transparent screen to accommodate a vertical center. While I’m not dead set on this, it’s just something I had wanted. If it can’t happen due to budget, then so be it.

Don't think so.

So, it really comes down the the budget and AT or not.

not

I’d appreciate thoughts and opinions on things overall. Since I’ve not picked anything out I can make the ‘right’ moves to accommodate my budget to get the best bang for the buck.

Check out the Panny.

I was going to use a stand to put them all on. You actually bring up a good point about putting the center under the screen. With an 8’ ceiling, and these ‘towers’ which are ~2’ tall, I still have 6’ of height to use for the screen which should suffice, I would think.

I guess my only real concern in that case would be that the speaker is on the ground.

No, No, No. If you have to, load the floor with absorption. Otherwise, "mudbass" will be excited which then will mask your dialogue frequencies.

Maybe I could use a stand about 1’ tall to raise the speaker off the floor a bit. Then still use a decent sized stand for the side speakers. I’ll be using this room for music about 20% of the time, but this is almost exclusively an HT room.

Check out the Panny. (how many times have I said that?)

As for subs, I’m going to build a manifold in the front wall and mount 2-4 AE ib15s. probably start with 2 to begin with, though. If I need more, I’ll add them later.

Generally speaking, you do not want the subs' drivers firing directly towards any screen, ok? Perhaps a non-issue for fixed screen... but not sure there. Otherwise, depending how powerful these subs are, you might have a shaking picture.

 

[ErinH]

8' high is mandatory? Higher would be quite nice acoustically.

Probably. Like I said, nothing will be final until the floor goes down and I get up there but given the roof height, I don’t think that’ll change.

If that's the realistic budget, I'm not so sure that there is anything worth getting as AT. In fact, even with the best AT screens out there, there are those who think they still can't be as nice as a non-AT screen that can have optical coating. But at this budget, forget it I say. Please remember the Pana 3000 and it's easy "anamorphic" capability, as that will afford you more height to play with, assuming the same screen width.



By far, the most common and best advice I give to those setting up their first PJ system is this:

FIRE THE PIC AT THE BLANK WALL FOR A FEW DAYS.

Yes, that needed to be boldfaced. I spent a week myself. Do not build sub manifolds, etc, until you have either selected size, or that the placements are far enough way to make it an absolute impossibility that they will impinge on screen size. I do mean impossible, btw. I can share horror stories with you, if you want.

I was actually just looking at a link mrprfct provided and I think that I could easily go the DIY route. PDF says you could come in between $200-600 depending on what you do yourself. I think I’d come in on the low end. I’m a DIY’r by nature, but nothing ever looks too pretty, lol.

Blank wall? NO PROBLEM! Actually, a very good idea. It will give me an idea of just what size I need.

No, No, No. If you have to, load the floor with absorption. Otherwise, "mudbass" will be excited which then will mask your dialogue frequencies.



Check out the Panny. (how many times have I said that?)



Generally speaking, you do not want the subs' drivers firing directly towards any screen, ok? Perhaps a non-issue for fixed screen... but not sure there. Otherwise, depending how powerful these subs are, you might have a shaking picture.

Mudbass- had planned to use foam/mlv/(something) at the base to absorb any resonance. Same thing for the IB manifold.
Mudbass is a nice term; I’ll have to remember that.

If I went with the DIY route, the screen would be fixed so there shouldn’t be any flex in the screen itself. But, I’ll definitely keep that in mind.




Hey, I keep seeing someone talk about a panny. Do you know which one it is? j/k.


THANKS.

 

[lsiberian]

Thanks for the reply.
I use the term ‘tower’ loosely in this case. Actually, it’s more of an enlarged bookshelf. These are the exact enclosures I’ll be using:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=302-751

I was going to use a stand to put them all on. You actually bring up a good point about putting the center under the screen. With an 8’ ceiling, and these ‘towers’ which are ~2’ tall, I still have 6’ of height to use for the screen which should suffice, I would think.
I guess my only real concern in that case would be that the speaker is on the ground. Maybe I could use a stand about 1’ tall to raise the speaker off the floor a bit. Then still use a decent sized stand for the side speakers. I’ll be using this room for music about 20% of the time, but this is almost exclusively an HT room.

As for subs, I’m going to build a manifold in the front wall and mount 2-4 AE ib15s. probably start with 2 to begin with, though. If I need more, I’ll add them later.

‘good enough’ is fine by me. I’m just trying to make sure I understand what I’m doing, and squeeze every bit of value I can for the dollar. I’m not even doing room treatments short of a few placed panels and bass traps. I’m being realistic about the use of this room and going gung-ho on a room that won’t be used much more than once a week would be severe overkill. In fact, I’ve scaled my budget back by nearly half, now.

Thanks again!

For your subs I suggest putting them on the sides if possible. That will reduce your power requirement(aka electricity bill) because your subs will be closer to your seating area. . I think a dual kappa build would be sufficient for the room(I know everyone wants bigger, but honestly the SPL of two kappas would easily fill your room and would likely be cheaper. If you are building a house I think you can certainly build a couple subs.

28' is very large for a theater room IMO, You could try putting a wall in or even better putting some halls around the area to make it more rectangular. But I know you plan to sell the house so maybe not. I do suggest you insulate the room or isolate it instead of a standard dry wall approach. A greater expert should be consulted on this than myself, but you can build this thing to be very acoustically friendly. So take that into consideration. You will need to ceiling mount the PJ. I do suggest you try out the PJ on a white wall first. If you like it just fine you could always wait on a screen. I use a white wall for my picture and it works perfectly fine. Of course I would have a screen in home theater. But the wall will give your family a chance to figure out what everyone likes best and come to a good compromise on screen size and height(etc.) We all have preferences. I will still suggest the Epson over a panny because I never see their PJs on ebay used. If I do its very rare. I see pannys all over ebay. Either way would still blow you away. However, Don't buy the PJ until the house is done. the technology changes every year and the PJs get better and better. So if you can wait until the house is done and the room is done then you will be better off.

 

[BMXTRIX]

I’m likely going to go with an Epson 1080 FP for video. Based on reviews, I figure it’s one of the best bang for the buck units.

Understand, the 1080UB you linked to is out of production and has been replaced with the 6100 and 6500 models from Epson. Both of which are excellent units.

I was figuring maybe 300-400 for a screen given that my room will be pitch black and I won’t need a screen to make up for the room’s shortcomings in this case.

A good screen has most of the money tied up in a good aluminum velvet lined frame, not the material itself. So, if you take any given screen size, a bit of gain (which I would recommend) adds minimally to your screen cost. I think your budget for a good screen - which should last you a lifetime, is a bit on the low side. Check www.carada.com and go from there.

I did check projectorcentral.com and found that 97” is a recommended screen size.

Actually, if you go with a 1.4 gain Brilliant White screen and move your projector to about 25% back from as close as it can be, you get about a 120" or larger diagonal while maintaining adequate brightness in 'best' mode. You still have a lot of headroom with this projector for added lumens beyond that.

I could live with that. Obviously, I’d like to go larger, but I’ll just let you guys give me your input.

Don't live with that - it is far to small for your room and for that projector. It will just look a bit weird, and won't be as forgiving if you end up with two rows of seating. Go bigger, use a decent screen.

The real issue came when I realized that I’d need an acoustically transparent screen to accommodate a vertical center. While I’m not dead set on this, it’s just something I had wanted. If it can’t happen due to budget, then so be it.

I would work to place the projection screen properly for the room, and if your budget doesn't afford you a AT screen, then plan accordingly. Three matching towers is nice, but there's a reason why very few people do this.

Going with an AT screen of high enough quality to support 1080p resolution cleanly is a fair bit pricey. There's no way around it. Cheap AT screens don't resolve 1080p nicely and can produce moire patterns. I would even recommend building a false wall for the screen to go on if you really want to do things up with an AT screen and speakers placed behind it.

But, on a budget, go with the Carada in BW and bring the size up to match the room. You may need to adjust that center speaker, but the overall impact will be far more appropriate for your environment.

 

[ErinH]

For your subs I suggest putting them on the sides if possible. That will reduce your power requirement(aka electricity bill) because your subs will be closer to your seating area. . I think a dual kappa build would be sufficient for the room(I know everyone wants bigger, but honestly the SPL of two kappas would easily fill your room and would likely be cheaper. If you are building a house I think you can certainly build a couple subs.

28' is very large for a theater room IMO, You could try putting a wall in or even better putting some halls around the area to make it more rectangular. But I know you plan to sell the house so maybe not. I do suggest you insulate the room or isolate it instead of a standard dry wall approach. A greater expert should be consulted on this than myself, but you can build this thing to be very acoustically friendly. So take that into consideration. You will need to ceiling mount the PJ. I do suggest you try out the PJ on a white wall first. If you like it just fine you could always wait on a screen. I use a white wall for my picture and it works perfectly fine. Of course I would have a screen in home theater. But the wall will give your family a chance to figure out what everyone likes best and come to a good compromise on screen size and height(etc.) We all have preferences. I will still suggest the Epson over a panny because I never see their PJs on ebay used. If I do its very rare. I see pannys all over ebay. Either way would still blow you away. However, Don't buy the PJ until the house is done. the technology changes every year and the PJs get better and better. So if you can wait until the house is done and the room is done then you will be better off.

I had originally planed to use (2) 12w7's but decided against it. Quite honestly, I can build the IB setup for about the same (or less) than I could purchase a single good 12” sub. Peerless SLS or XLS would be under that price, but then I’d have to double it… plus the big thing to me is finish. I guess overall, it’s just ‘easier’ for me to go the IB route and I don’t have to fight the box to get the flat response… nor do I have to build a very large one to get it down into the teens. That’s just my logic, though.

Yea, we’ll likely do a false wall at the least, but probably will wall off a section so that the room isn’t so large. Then use the rest for attic space. The room has the potential to be anywhere from 500-800sqft right now, and the final decision won’t be made until the flooring goes in on the 2nd floor.

As for treatments, I really only planned to use fiberglass and some blocks here and there to help with aborption. But, MLV and high-STC wall is out. It’s just not in the budget, and as little as I’ll be using this room, it doesn’t seem to be worth the cash. Keep in mind, too, the only room upstairs will be this room. Now, I’ll probably go back and lay foam under certain areas, but as a whole, the fiberglass will be it. My car is covered in deadener and all sorts of foam, so I have some experience with sound proofing applications (not a pro by any means); I just don’t feel like doing that in the home. The IB manifold will be treated with rubber mat, but as a whole, I’m going minimal.

Yea, roof mount projector for sure. The A/V gear will probably be in a closet of sorts, maybe using a shelf built into the rear wall for access to the front panels. Maybe use a door to hide them. Dunno yet. That’s really the least of my worries right now, though, lol.

Thanks,
Erin

 

[lsiberian]

I had originally planed to use (2) 12w7's but decided against it. Quite honestly, I can build the IB setup for about the same (or less) than I could purchase a single good 12” sub. Peerless SLS or XLS would be under that price, but then I’d have to double it… plus the big thing to me is finish. I guess overall, it’s just ‘easier’ for me to go the IB route and I don’t have to fight the box to get the flat response… nor do I have to build a very large one to get it down into the teens. That’s just my logic, though.

Yea, we’ll likely do a false wall at the least, but probably will wall off a section so that the room isn’t so large. Then use the rest for attic space. The room has the potential to be anywhere from 500-800sqft right now, and the final decision won’t be made until the flooring goes in on the 2nd floor.

As for treatments, I really only planned to use fiberglass and some blocks here and there to help with aborption. But, MLV and high-STC wall is out. It’s just not in the budget, and as little as I’ll be using this room, it doesn’t seem to be worth the cash. Keep in mind, too, the only room upstairs will be this room. Now, I’ll probably go back and lay foam under certain areas, but as a whole, the fiberglass will be it. My car is covered in deadener and all sorts of foam, so I have some experience with sound proofing applications (not a pro by any means); I just don’t feel like doing that in the home. The IB manifold will be treated with rubber mat, but as a whole, I’m going minimal.

Yea, roof mount projector for sure. The A/V gear will probably be in a closet of sorts, maybe using a shelf built into the rear wall for access to the front panels. Maybe use a door to hide them. Dunno yet. That’s really the least of my worries right now, though, lol.

Thanks,
Erin

I know you have probably heard this before, but there are centers that do really well and have very little issues with lobing. I know Coaxial drivers suffer very little from this effect, but I couldn't tell you a good DIY brand. KEF makes the best retail coaxial IMO. But their good centers cost $450 Having the screen set right in PJ setup is very important. If you've never had a PJ or used a PJ it's hard to understand, but you can find out by taking a trip to your local movie theater. Compare sitting in the front to sitting in the middle and the back. I suggest you watch 3 movies. One at each distance to get an idea for your preference. If you prefer the back then you will probably prefer a smaller screen and one that is at eye level. The nice thing is those Epsons have very good zoom and lens shift features so as your preferences shift(they will as you watch PJ more often). You can make adjustments. Some people actually prefer a smaller screen others prefer huge. for me it depends on the movie.

 

[lsiberian]

I had originally planed to use (2) 12w7's but decided against it. Quite honestly, I can build the IB setup for about the same (or less) than I could purchase a single good 12” sub. Peerless SLS or XLS would be under that price, but then I’d have to double it… plus the big thing to me is finish. I guess overall, it’s just ‘easier’ for me to go the IB route and I don’t have to fight the box to get the flat response… nor do I have to build a very large one to get it down into the teens. That’s just my logic, though.

Yea, we’ll likely do a false wall at the least, but probably will wall off a section so that the room isn’t so large. Then use the rest for attic space. The room has the potential to be anywhere from 500-800sqft right now, and the final decision won’t be made until the flooring goes in on the 2nd floor.

As for treatments, I really only planned to use fiberglass and some blocks here and there to help with aborption. But, MLV and high-STC wall is out. It’s just not in the budget, and as little as I’ll be using this room, it doesn’t seem to be worth the cash. Keep in mind, too, the only room upstairs will be this room. Now, I’ll probably go back and lay foam under certain areas, but as a whole, the fiberglass will be it. My car is covered in deadener and all sorts of foam, so I have some experience with sound proofing applications (not a pro by any means); I just don’t feel like doing that in the home. The IB manifold will be treated with rubber mat, but as a whole, I’m going minimal.

Yea, roof mount projector for sure. The A/V gear will probably be in a closet of sorts, maybe using a shelf built into the rear wall for access to the front panels. Maybe use a door to hide them. Dunno yet. That’s really the least of my worries right now, though, lol.

Thanks,
Erin

Any kind of insulation will help dramatically. I don't think you have to go wild on this. Nor should you. When this project is done you will be blown away by your picture and sound. It may lead to more movie watching than you could imagine. Heck a PJ alone will increase movie watching, but those Epsons are amazing with the 1080p resolution. Make sure you at least run DVE on the PJ. I know ISF is nice, but very expensive.

 

[ErinH]

I know you have probably heard this before, but there are centers that do really well and have very little issues with lobing. I know Coaxial drivers suffer very little from this effect, but I couldn't tell you a good DIY brand. KEF makes the best retail coaxial IMO. But their good centers cost $450 Having the screen set right in PJ setup is very important. If you've never had a PJ or used a PJ it's hard to understand, but you can find out by taking a trip to your local movie theater. Compare sitting in the front to sitting in the middle and the back. I suggest you watch 3 movies. One at each distance to get an idea for your preference. If you prefer the back then you will probably prefer a smaller screen and one that is at eye level. The nice thing is those Epsons have very good zoom and lens shift features so as your preferences shift(they will as you watch PJ more often). You can make adjustments. Some people actually prefer a smaller screen others prefer huge. for me it depends on the movie.

One of the approaches I’ve considered is using a coaxial Seas driver. So, good call on that.

My local theaters suck, so I travel about 30 minutes to the good ones. They have stadium seatings. I typically sit eye level in the middle of the theater. That’s my favorite spot.
Screen size is lost on me, currently. The good thing is I have all the room I need to do whatever… but I also want to keep in mind the lamp life of the projector. I think I should be alright, but it’s something I have considered.

Any kind of insulation will help dramatically. I don't think you have to go wild on this. Nor should you. When this project is done you will be blown away by your picture and sound. It may lead to more movie watching than you could imagine. Heck a PJ alone will increase movie watching, but those Epsons are amazing with the 1080p resolution. Make sure you at least run DVE on the PJ. I know ISF is nice, but very expensive.

DVE = cal disc? ISF, I assume, is a cal disc, too? I’ll definitely check into those. I have AVIA right now, but it’s been a very long time since I’ve used it, and I’m not sure that it’ll work for HD FP.


I’ve got a lot of things to consider. I think the best thing is probably to get the equipment I know I want (subs, receiver, FP) but hold off on screen and speakers. I should probably be able to use any speakers I get regarding center, though. I’d just have to make accommodations for the ‘best’. But, then again, I’ll be sitting so far back, it shouldn’t really matter in terms of audio imaging, coherence, etc. most of that should work itself out. Add to it the Audyssey EQ’ing and I’m sure I’d be fine. Firing at a blank wall seems best. My ONLY issue with that is adding things after the room is finished is going to be tough. If I decide to go DIY AT (which seems very plausible given price), I’ll have to build a false wall. If I know ahead of time I want to do that, I can have the drywall put up as a false wall and put the center and rears in there.


Thanks again.

 

[lsiberian]

If you sit mid screen height then you will need to make compromises on your center speaker. You may even have to go phantom. If you do go Seas make sure you sit off axis. I've heard the on-axis response is bad on their designs. This is primarily from reading though. I've never got to demo those babies. You can angle the speaker toward the seating area or use Auddysey to increase the gain if necessary. I actually use a center with more bang to make up the difference.

 

[jostenmeat]

One of the approaches I’ve considered is using a coaxial Seas driver. So, good call on that.

Coax is a great idea for center, and if I was shopping all over again for the HT rig, I would most definitely be checking those out. TLS Guy is a pretty big proponent of their use for center channel. He does still use vertically arrayed drivers, even with use of coax.

Screen size is lost on me, currently. The good thing is I have all the room I need to do whatever… but I also want to keep in mind the lamp life of the projector. I think I should be alright, but it’s something I have considered.

I would start at 36 deg viewing angle, the THX rec. Then tweak from there. I kept moving forward, even after fitting the biggest screen I possibly could, until I hit 42. Don't even ask what mperfct's #s are.

DVE = cal disc? ISF, I assume, is a cal disc, too? I’ll definitely check into those. I have AVIA right now, but it’s been a very long time since I’ve used it, and I’m not sure that it’ll work for HD FP.

by ISF, he meant an ISF certified pro calibration. ISF stands for imaging science foundation, iirc, but certified does not guarantee someone good. In any case, the Avia will work fine as low level calibration, and is in fact what I use.

I’d just have to make accommodations for the ‘best’. But, then again, I’ll be sitting so far back, it shouldn’t really matter in terms of audio imaging, coherence, etc. most of that should work itself out.

I don't really follow this logic, but mmmmk.

Add to it the Audyssey EQ’ing and I’m sure I’d be fine. Firing at a blank wall seems best. My ONLY issue with that is adding things after the room is finished is going to be tough. If I decide to go DIY AT (which seems very plausible given price), I’ll have to build a false wall. If I know ahead of time I want to do that, I can have the drywall put up as a false wall and put the center and rears in there.

Center and rears together? Must be a brainfart. Ok, why drywall for the false wall? It's super wide? I think it could be just some very simple framing, covered with AT material.

 

[lsiberian]

Coax is a great idea for center, and if I was shopping all over again for the HT rig, I would most definitely be checking those out. TLS Guy is a pretty big proponent of their use for center channel. He does still use vertically arrayed drivers, even with use of coax.

TLS Guy uses Coaxes? Which ones? Gives me something to shoot for hehe.

 

[jostenmeat]

He gives high regard to the SEAS driver, but I do not know if that is indeed what he is using.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=522706&postcount=20

 

[lsiberian]

He gives high regard to the SEAS driver, but I do not know if that is indeed what he is using.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=522706&postcount=20

TLS Guy says, "I'm a little surprised the DIY community on this forum has not embraced the SEAS coaxial driver. It is one of the best coaxial units around."

I think that's the way you should go. I'm sure he would be helpful with the optimal box if you ask in the DIY section. I've noticed this site seems to have people that really know what they are talking about. I mean that beyond the usual forums i've come across. TLS is clearly one of those on speaker design.

Maybe he's just smarter than me.

 

[BMXTRIX]

Now, in all this, if I were doing my own home theater, I might consider building the front wall as a false wall with fabric covering and all speakers hidden. For the screen, I would do some research on the Accuscreens models - which offer some fixed AT screens upto 106" diagonal.

Still a bit smaller than I would recommend for your space, but their price is extremely good. (under $400 at 106")

I definitely keep thinking about getting an AT screen for my plasma/projector setup with my next home, but I'm not betting on that course of action... Yet in a true HT environment with a fixed large screen I would be strongly considering AT screens with behind the wall speaker placement.

 

[jostenmeat]

BMX, what AT screens have you seen that pleased you the most? How high are the price tags on anything that you might mention?

 

[BMXTRIX]

BMX, what AT screens have you seen that pleased you the most? How high are the price tags on anything that you might mention?

Honestly, I haven't ever seen one beyond trade shows.

I have always had people who have simply gone with false walls and putting speakers below screens (in my bigger residential stuff where I worked for someone else) and the jobs I do now tend to be limited to $10K or less budgets so false walls tend to be out of the question.

Most manufacturers do make AT screens and since all the holes tend to be cut by machine it really doesn't seem to be a huge jump in cost from a AT material and a non-AT material. But, the site I listed above is significantly a lesser expensive brand than what I've seen elsewhere. Draper and Dalite are where I would typically start.