Kevin,
This is one of the best recommendations for us non-audiophiles. Many of us are coming back to Hifi Audio/Home Theater after hearing music for several years from a computer. So anything is going to sound better.
With your recommendations in mind can you list a few ceiling speakers in the $200 per speaker, as I don't have the speaker knowledge & experience as yourself.
Speakercraft AIM 8 one (they don't have aluminum materials)?
Are in-ceiling speakers your only option? As mentioned in several previous posts, it is most certainly a compromised arrangement, from a SQ standpoint.
If in-ceiling speakers are your only option, I feel that I must argue with some of the last recommendations. But remember, it's just my
opinion.
1. Purchase from a high-end company: SpeakerCraft was mentioned
The definition of "high-end" is very much open to interpretation. Judge each speaker on it's own merits - not on the price or the brand name.
2. Get a speaker with a "baffle" that is positioned at an angle (30 degree should do it), so it faces the listner. LCR speakers should come to a focus point in the center of the room (you mentioned 5.1, there are plenty of guides that give you the angle and pointing placement). It is mathematically impossible for the mid and bass to sound good if the baffles are pointing straight down - which is why you get the in-ceiling speakers are crap discussion - but many of the high end in-ceiling speakers have baffles that are angled - the best ones allow you to adjust the baffles (but those will be above $300 per speaker).
I've never seen speakers that allow you to adjust the baffle angle. I won't say they don't exist - I just haven't seen any. I'm curious as to which brand/models might have that feature.
3. Get a speaker with a tweater that is positionable...for the same reason. Almost all of the high-ends automatically have an adjustable tweater.
If the speakers are for HT or if you plan to listen to music in a predetermined position, yes you'll need aimable tweeters. Lots of relatively inexpensive speakers have this feature.
4. Get a speaker with Aluminum or better material (that will be your typical high-end speaker - it's high-end because it uses a better material!).
I'm not sure if this is in reference to the drivers or the frame/baffle material.
Yes, the frame and baffle should be metal and the installation arrangement should allow the speaker to be held
very firmly in place. As for the material from which the drivers are constructed, I wouldn't worry to much about that. Plenty of crappy drivers are made of aluminum, while some high quality drivers are paper-based.
5. In general, the bigger the speaker, the better the sound.
As in other aspects of life, when it comes to speakers, size does not matter! Larger mid/woofers usually offer deeper bass extension if we're discussing different size drivers from the same model line. But,
do not assume that a 6.5" driver from one brand/model will give a deeper bass response than the 5.5" driver from another brand/model. You have to check the manufacturers specs and independent test results in order to make that determination.
Plus, "better sound" and frequency response are two different things. You can get deep bass response, but terrible SQ, at the same time. I would suggest that you read the AH articles about judging speaker performance.
7. Don't get an in-wall sub-woofer....you'll be replacing your drywall within 3-4 years! Plus, almost all of them are passive. Get a good sub-woofer - they come looking like furniture these days, so sending wire to a wall jack and using a short cable to the Sub-woofer is sufficient. Get a powered sub-woofer
A ready-made in-wall subwoofer will be more expensive than its free-standing equivalent. Yes, they often don't have amplifiers, due to the space they consume. You would need a dedicated external amp in that case, as most AVRs just don't have sufficient power for that purpose. An in-wall sub can be a good option if you don't have floor space for a free-standing sub. If it is installed
correctly, I don't think you will have problems with cracked drywall.
8. Don't forget to use approved in-wall cable - regular wire is crap (you'll spend lots of money on cable if you do it right). Inspectors will make you replace non-approved in-wall low-voltage cabling.
Yes, if you are running wire through walls and ceilings, use wire that is approved for that purpose. That does not mean that regular wire is crap - just don't use it in a wall. And, in-wall speaker cable is
not much more expensive than regular speaker cable. Monoprice probably has the lowest price you'll find for CL2 (in-wall rating) cable. It's
dirt cheap and as good as any other cable you will find anywhere.
Gold connectors? Meh....