Pro Amplifier recommendations

[Soundman]

Well, then go for it. LOL.

I am not really one to talk about reasonable power, I guess... as my 3 way computer stereo speakers...

I have two dedicated 20A circuits to my computer and I use 1050 watts RMS per stereo channel..... so.....

-Chris

OK, i do want to make sure there isn't a hiss problem though. Is there a way of looking at my current setup and tell at what point this problem may occur?

 

[scooterp7]

Bi amp question

Please excuse my rudeness and noobness but I have a question. I have a new pair of RTi12's that I am trying to figure the best way to power for HT. I have a Pio vsx receiver 125 wpc. Is it wrong to bi-amp this tower by using the fronts of the receiver to the high posts and then say a monobloc amp (say 200 wpc) to the low posts? I've searched many forums and can't get a real bearing as to how ideal a setup this would be. Something about the signals not being "matched".? Any guidance appreciated.

 

[WmAx]

OK, i do want to make sure there isn't a hiss problem though. Is there a way of looking at my current setup and tell at what point this problem may occur?

No. At this point, it's a case of 'try it to find out' if you want to know. I will probably have no problem. I would personally buy the amp new, and from zzounds.com, just because they are so ridiculously easy to work with when you have problems of any type.

-Chris

 

[WmAx]

Please excuse my rudeness and noobness but I have a question. I have a new pair of RTi12's that I am trying to figure the best way to power for HT. I have a Pio vsx receiver 125 wpc. Is it wrong to bi-amp this tower by using the fronts of the receiver to the high posts and then say a monobloc amp (say 200 wpc) to the low posts? I've searched many forums and can't get a real bearing as to how ideal a setup this would be. Something about the signals not being "matched".? Any guidance appreciated.

It is pointless. And the signals need to be level matched of course. But heck, adjusting by ear would be good enough with those speakers. I would look towards replacing those speakers before replacing the amplifiers.

-Chris

 

[scooterp7]

I just unboxed them yesterday

 

[WmAx]

I just unboxed them yesterday

I don't mean to sound like a jerk. It comes naturally.

-Chris

 

[scooterp7]

I don't mean to sound like a jerk. It comes naturally.

-Chris

Understood.

It's just that I'm on a tight budget. I did feel hesitant about the 12's. I would have preferred the 8's and a PSW and that would have kept things simpler. I feel I am probably in kind of a hole with the power hungry 12's (and I assume you think there garbage anyway) and I should prolly just follow the first rule of holes and stop digging.

 

[Soundman]

Understood.

It's just that I'm on a tight budget. I did feel hesitant about the 12's. I would have preferred the 8's and a PSW and that would have kept things simpler. I feel I am probably in kind of a hole with the power hungry 12's (and I assume you think there garbage anyway) and I should prolly just follow the first rule of holes and stop digging.

I don't think the 12's are that power hungry. They are rated 8 ohm with a 90db sensitivity. They shouldn't be that hard to drive. Of course, they could probably benefit from more amplification too. I think what Chris probably meant is that if you are after better sound quality, you may want to evaluate whether adding an amp will be worth it, or if you would be better off putting that money into better speakers. Personally, I don't think the rti 12's are a bad deal considering you can find them for less then 400 bucks. That's pretty cheap for a tower speaker.

 

[Soundman]

No. At this point, it's a case of 'try it to find out' if you want to know. I will probably have no problem. I would personally buy the amp new, and from zzounds.com, just because they are so ridiculously easy to work with when you have problems of any type.

-Chris

Hey Chris,
What would typically be the recommended wattage for this type of application to avoid a voltage problem, 450-500 wpc? I suppose I could go with a lower powered amp running stero and if I feel that a still need more, I could bridge it and use it for my center channel. Then purchase a higher powered stero amp to complete the front stage. I can use my current amp for the surrounds and that will give me 160wpc (2 channels driven), which I think should be fine for the surrounds. What do you think? Like I said, my goal is to only have to do this once and not have to upgrade. I'd rather have way more then I need then have to upgrade later b/c I feel I need more...or be wondering in the back of my mind what I'm missing. What do you think? Sorry, for asking so many questions. I just don't have much knowledge with pro gear.

 

[WmAx]

Hey Chris,
What would typically be the recommended wattage for this type of application to avoid a voltage problem, 450-500 wpc? I suppose I could go with a lower powered amp running stero and if I feel that a still need more, I could bridge it and use it for my center channel. Then purchase a higher powered stero amp to complete the front stage. I can use my current amp for the surrounds and that will give me 160wpc (2 channels driven), which I think should be fine for the surrounds. What do you think? Like I said, my goal is to only have to do this once and not have to upgrade. I'd rather have way more then I need then have to upgrade later b/c I feel I need more...or be wondering in the back of my mind what I'm missing. What do you think? Sorry, for asking so many questions. I just don't have much knowledge with pro gear.

I was looking at the gain spec on the P5000S and P7000S. It is listed as the same on both. So you may as well go for the P7000S since you REALLY seem to want that massive power available.

-Chris

 

[Soundman]

I was looking at the gain spec on the P5000S and P7000S. It is listed as the same on both. So you may as well go for the P7000S since you REALLY seem to want that massive power available.

-Chris

oh, cool! So, I assume the P5000S or something similar is fine for the type of speakers I have. here's the specs for my mains:

System: 3-way, six-driver direct-radiating system, vented enclosure with two rear-firing flared ports.
Drivers: Vifa Ring Radiator tweeter, four custom 5.25" long-throw aluminum cone woofers, one custom 4" aluminum cone midrange.
Crossover Points:
Tweeter at 2750Hz
Midrange at 680Hz - 2750Hz
Frequency Response: 36 Hz to 20 KHz (± 3 dB)
Impedance: 8 Ohms nominal
Efficiency: 91.5dB (@ 1 watt / 1 meter)
Video Shielding: No
Dimensions: 45.5" H x 15.6" D x 11.8" W
Weight: Ship weight 100 lbs each; 200lbs/pair

One of the main reasons, I was looking into higher power is b/c although my speakers should be pretty easy to drive, they don't benefit as much from a better power supply as say a 4 ohm speaker would. So, that's really why I've been looking into these higher power amps. Make sense?

 

[WmAx]

oh, cool! So, I assume the P5000S or something similar is fine for the type of speakers I have. here's the specs for my mains:

System: 3-way, six-driver direct-radiating system, vented enclosure with two rear-firing flared ports.
Drivers: Vifa Ring Radiator tweeter, four custom 5.25" long-throw aluminum cone woofers, one custom 4" aluminum cone midrange.
Crossover Points:
Tweeter at 2750Hz
Midrange at 680Hz - 2750Hz
Frequency Response: 36 Hz to 20 KHz (± 3 dB)
Impedance: 8 Ohms nominal
Efficiency: 91.5dB (@ 1 watt / 1 meter)
Video Shielding: No
Dimensions: 45.5" H x 15.6" D x 11.8" W
Weight: Ship weight 100 lbs each; 200lbs/pair

One of the main reasons, I was looking into higher power is b/c although my speakers should be pretty easy to drive, they don't benefit as much from a better power supply as say a 4 ohm speaker would. So, that's really why I've been looking into these higher power amps. Make sense?

Whatever.... the P5000S and P7000S have excellent power supplies and are rated at their power from 20Hz-20,000Hz. I don't think you need the power - but you want it - so I am simply recommending some very high quality amplifiers that produce the power you want without you going to the 'consumer amp' market where you are going to get less product for your money.

-Chris

 

[Soundman]

Whatever.... the P5000S and P7000S have excellent power supplies and are rated at their power from 20Hz-20,000Hz. I don't think you need the power - but you want it - so I am simply recommending some very high quality amplifiers that produce the power you want without you going to the 'consumer amp' market where you are going to get less product for your money.

-Chris

OK Chris,
That sounds good. So basically, at this price point, you would recommend Bahringer (if money's tight) or Yamaha. Anyone else you recommend looking at? I know there are bigger names in pro gear, but do any of these brands provide anything better audibly? I do know you mentioned Crown was overpriced. Sorry for all the questions. Other questions just keep coming up. ...just want to make sure I've explored all my options before pulling the trigger.

 

[WmAx]

OK Chris,
That sounds good. So basically, at this price point, you would recommend Bahringer (if money's tight) or Yamaha. Anyone else you recommend looking at? I know there are bigger names in pro gear, but do any of these brands provide anything better audibly? I do know you mentioned Crown was overpriced. Sorry for all the questions. Other questions just keep coming up. ...just want to make sure I've explored all my options before pulling the trigger.

I have gone over most of the pro products and my absolute favorite are the Yamahas when all you need is 4 Ohm stability is okay. They produce no fan noise in use and they are very reliable - Yamaha is very high QCed - and performance is transparent with excellent SNR. In addition, the rack mount ears come off if you don't like them in your set up.

After trying several other brands, and considering far more.... I ended up with Yamahas in my main 2 channel active system. I could not ask for better amplifiers. I like these better than my former McIntosh amplifiers. These Yamahas have more power and I would wager higher performance - and all at a lower price. I don't care that much about 'pretty' looking hardware at this point; function is the most important factor to me. If I was obscenely wealthy, sure, I would load up the rack with very pretty exotic amplifiers. I would go with Halcros..... some of the best measuring/performing amplifiers in the world(but not audibly better - they simply have the best measured performance you can get).

Here is a peek at the Yamahas in my main system: http://www.linaeum.com/images/wmaxcomponents_1.jpg

-Chris

 

[Soundman]

I have gone over most of the pro products and my absolute favorite are the Yamahas when all you need is 4 Ohm stability is okay. They produce no fan noise in use and they are very reliable - Yamaha is very high QCed - and performance is transparent with excellent SNR. In addition, the rack mount ears come off if you don't like them in your set up.

After trying several other brands, and considering far more.... I ended up with Yamahas in my main 2 channel active system. I could not ask for better amplifiers. I like these better than my former McIntosh amplifiers. These Yamahas have more power and I would wager higher performance - and all at a lower price. I don't care that much about 'pretty' looking hardware at this point; function is the most important factor to me. If I was obscenely wealthy, sure, I would load up the rack with very pretty exotic amplifiers. I would go with Halcros..... some of the best measuring/performing amplifiers in the world(but not audibly better - they simply have the best measured performance you can get).

Here is a peek at the Yamahas in my main system: http://www.linaeum.com/images/wmaxcomponents_1.jpg

-Chris

Hey Chris,
Nice setup! I'll probably give the Yammy's a shot. Thanks.

 

[Soundman]

I have gone over most of the pro products and my absolute favorite are the Yamahas when all you need is 4 Ohm stability is okay. They produce no fan noise in use and they are very reliable - Yamaha is very high QCed - and performance is transparent with excellent SNR. In addition, the rack mount ears come off if you don't like them in your set up.

After trying several other brands, and considering far more.... I ended up with Yamahas in my main 2 channel active system. I could not ask for better amplifiers. I like these better than my former McIntosh amplifiers. These Yamahas have more power and I would wager higher performance - and all at a lower price. I don't care that much about 'pretty' looking hardware at this point; function is the most important factor to me. If I was obscenely wealthy, sure, I would load up the rack with very pretty exotic amplifiers. I would go with Halcros..... some of the best measuring/performing amplifiers in the world(but not audibly better - they simply have the best measured performance you can get).

Here is a peek at the Yamahas in my main system: http://www.linaeum.com/images/wmaxcomponents_1.jpg

-Chris

Hey Chris,
Can you tell me what speakers you are using with this Yamaha setup? Also, which Yamaha amps are you using, and what size is the room? This might give me a good starting point for determining which one to go with. Thanks.

 

[tcarcio]

I saw this today and thought it was interesting, check it out........http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZABkh3nhVM

 

[WmAx]

Hey Chris,
Can you tell me what speakers you are using with this Yamaha setup? Also, which Yamaha amps are you using, and what size is the room? This might give me a good starting point for determining which one to go with. Thanks.

My speakers are of my own design. I no longer use commercial speakers.

My listening room is roughly 15' wide x 14x deep by 7-7.5' high. But my listening room is also decked out with a very large amount of acoustical control treatments to obtain ideal acoustics for my speaker set up. So, the room may tend to need more power to reach a subjective SPL as compared to a normal untreated room, at least this is my suspicion.

I use a P2500S for the tweeters. A P3500S for the mid-ranges. A P3500S for the woofers. When I get my new main speakers completed - I will 2 x Behringer EP2500 to power the woofers. The 2nd P3500S will then be used on the midbass drivers instead of woofers.

-Chris

 

[Jeff Permanian]

That JTR is some power hog!

Correction: the sensitivity of my mains are actually 91.5db, center is 89db, and surrounds are 87db, so average sensitivity is 89.2, not that it matters much.

Wouldn't a less sensitive speaker be the power hog because it requires more power to achieve the same output? A ten db difference in sensitivity takes ten times the power for the same output.

 

[poutanen]

I know I'm late to the party on this post, but I drove a pair of Yamaha S115V mains with an A500, and a pair of SW118's with another A500 (bridged) and they ran fine.

The best I heard those S115V's was when I ran a single A500 into each speaker. The advertised 500wpc into an 8 ohm load when bridged is likely somewhere in the high 300's in real life (saw a test of the A500 somewhere when I joined audioholics).... nevertheless, 300+wpc into a 98 dB sensitive speaker is LOUD.

I moved to the country and I'm still not sure if I should bother setting up my high power stuff anymore. Using Yamaha studio monitors powered by my Yamaha AVR now and I actually like it as much as my old setup with a total of 4 amps.

In short: I had good luck with Behringer amps, and would expect Yamaha amps to be very high quality.