320USD 10" driver suggestions please

[mike c]

Why do you want to just play a 20 Hz frequency band? If someone wants to play 80 to 100 Hz! What does that mean? Or do you mean you want an F3 in that range. I have no idea what problem you are trying to solve.

yes, i want it to play exactly 80hz to 100hz.

(a 20hz band)

why?

cause i can?

(maybe i can't yet, but i want to and i will)

 

[TLS Guy]

yes, i want to it play exactly 80hz to 100hz.

(a 20hz band)

why?

cause i can?

(maybe i can't yet, but i want to and i will)

Well that makes no sense at all. There is no possible reason to do that, it could only possibly make a mess. You will have huge and uncontrollable band pass gain issues. The whole concept is just plain dippy, period.

As I have explained before, the wider the bandwidth between crossovers the better.

I strongly suspect you have mains with either no, or inadequate step response compensation, and you think this will compensate for it. It won't.

If you did want to do it, which I don't advise then this is your driver. Use two if them and you get an spl of 114db, in an enclosure volume is 0.8 cuft. Your best solution is to make a speakers with two of them as a two and a half way and crossover to your subs at 80 Hz. I have a complete design for this. The driver is a good substitute for the Dynaudio drivers in my NFM-1 monitors. The crossover is first order low pass and second order high pass, with a choice of two crossover frequencies on the fill driver, depending on room gain. It makes an extremely accurate and pleasant speaker.

Those speakers as mains would be light years ahead of what you are using now.

 

[MidnightSensi]

vertically with two enclosures, id like to keep it below 25" (24" ideal)
horizontally, i can go 35"-36"

sensi,
actually the mains above 100hz are plenty loud ... i just want the 80-100hz kick ...

im not sure about SPL, but ill take what dual or quad 10's can do with 360wpc/720wpc

The kick comes from higher in the midrange, and arguably even treble. If you boost the 80-100Hz range too much you will get drone. The key to "kick" or "punch" is dynamics. There is no way those towers are keeping up with that stack of subwoofers. Three dome tweeters for the top end versus six bass bins, not a chance.

Again, don't search for punch from the bottom. It's not there.

The mains are your weak point if you want that getting hit with a box of rocks feel.

*edit* Looks like TLS and I and were agreeing as we typed!!!

 

[gus6464]

Mike,

Have you thought about doing DIY on your mains to save you some cash and going with a big design? Maybe something like this:

Here are the fronts with matching center

http://clearwaveloudspeaker.googlepages.com/dynamic4t
http://clearwaveloudspeaker.googlepages.com/pricing

 

[TLS Guy]

The kick comes from higher in the midrange, and arguably even treble. If you boost the 80-100Hz range too much you will get drone. The key to "kick" or "punch" is dynamics. There is no way those towers are keeping up with that stack of subwoofers. Three dome tweeters for the top end versus six bass bins, not a chance.

Again, don't search for punch from the bottom. It's not there.

The mains are your weak point if you want that getting hit with a box of rocks feel.

*edit* Looks like TLS and I and were agreeing as we typed!!!

Yes, you are right on. Unfortunately Mike's theory is bogus. As I have said many times before, so many speakers are very weak in the wind between 80 and 400 Hz. Mine never are.

You would think by reading these forums that the sub is the most important speaker on the whole system. They are the MOST dispensable speaker. The mains and centers are the speakers that count.

I can make a bookshelf with an F3 between 60 and 70 Hz and you don't feel you have to have a sub in any way. I have a nice cheap set that are packed in my garage now, that I built for $27 per speaker 15 or so years ago. Those speakers do not sound small at all. That is what this craft is all about.

 

[rmk]

You would think by reading these forums that the sub is the most important speaker on the whole system. They are the MOST dispensable speaker. The mains and centers are the speakers that count.

Absolutely, all you have to do is play your subs minus the other speakers to find out how little they really add to the overall sound. While I also want LF to be strong, it is all about balance and many have lost perspective on this.

 

[annunaki]

Absolutely, all you have to do is play your subs minus the other speakers to find out how little they really add to the overall sound. While I also want LF to be strong, it is all about balance and many have lost perspective on this.

I admit I am a bass head, but rmk and TLS guy are right. Everything must be done equally. Those towers and center would be optimal for mike c's conundrum as he has so much low end. They appear to have plenty of dynamic ability.

My mains & center are my weak point right now, but I am well aware of that. I just need my old sub to sell so I can get my parts for my active center & mains.

 

[TLS Guy]

Absolutely, all you have to do is play your subs minus the other speakers to find out how little they really add to the overall sound. While I also want LF to be strong, it is all about balance and many have lost perspective on this.

Amen to that. Any speaker that can not do a good job of producing a satisfying rendition of a musical performance without a sub, needs to stay in the packing and be returned to sender.

I don't know if Mike intended to or not, but he has started a useful thread for going back to first principles.

 

[Warpdrv]

Mike,

Have you thought about doing DIY on your mains to save you some cash and going with a big design? Maybe something like this:

Here are the fronts with matching center

http://clearwaveloudspeaker.googlepages.com/dynamic4t
http://clearwaveloudspeaker.googlepages.com/pricing

gus.... Those look spectacular.... very nice....

 

[gus6464]

gus.... Those look spectacular.... very nice....

The guy that designed those also made an open baffle design I am very interested in but pretty expensive ($2400 for drivers and crossover parts). You can buy all the drivers and assembled crossovers from his site and he doesn't charge for the crossover assembly. In total for two fronts it comes to ~$1000 which is pretty damn nice considering the amount of speaker you are getting for that price.

 

[mike c]

1) it's a fact: i want to boost 100hz - tried it and i liked it.
2) while i agree my mains are the weak link here, but i had this choice:
bass boost at 100hz or new mains ... im choosing bass boost.

TLS guy, you are starting to go off topic (refer to thread title) i don't remember asking if i was wrong or right ... my views being different certainly doesn't mean they're wrong. i want to start from the bass up and it's my money.

i certainly don't appreciate being looked down on. "theory is bogus"? "doesn't make sense"? just because i don't have the same views as you? let's play your game: TL Speakers doesn't make sense to me. they're glorified ported speakers and i'll take ported anyday.

see how intolerance of others' ideas isn't fun?

 

[ParadigmDawg]

I take it Mike is a grown man and he can do what he wants.

 

[MidnightSensi]

Alrighty.

How'd the RE Audio SX 10" map out?

Woofers, Etc. has a pretty good price on it:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=4913

They also have the Image Dynamic IDMax's pretty cheap:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2899

 

[mike c]

lost interest in continuing this ... please use this thread for some other purpose to benefit others.

thanks to those who actually recommended drivers

i'll do this next year when i get the money. and i won't be buying within 320USD ... i'll be buying overkill because i freakin can.