Simple cheap build....amp chosen, which driver and what enclosure set-up?

[TLS Guy]

What are the T/S params of the Perfect 12?

You have been sent these, and I think more than once.

Low Insert.

Mid Insert.

No Insert.

I have to comment that you seem to be rehashing the same ground. I think you need to get off the pot and build a sub. You have enough choices and designs to best most commercial subs and still stay in budget. It's high time for you to jump into the pool. Get a sub built and I'm confident you will do yourself proud. There is no perfect speaker of any description, so to keep looking is futile.

You can make a very good sub from any of these.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

To be fair I just dropped almost $300 on a EP2500 and EQ after looking everyday all over the net for a few weeks.
I would call that getting off the pot.
I was expecting to have only 300w - 50ow to work with...not the case anymore.
Many of the drivers I was looking at before would waste most of the power benefit of the EP2500.

Thank you again for the links!

Before you know it I'll have this up and running

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

Download the user manual for the Kappa Perfect VQ series from the Infinity website. The T&S parameters can be found in the manual.

You can get F3 in the range of 14 Hz(with reduced SPL), no problem, with the 12VQ. But you have to use a massive enclosure; this is going to be the case with any such system with high output at this low of a frequency. However, by placing the tuning frequency so low, you limit the output SPL in the lower twenties, because cone excursion starts to become significant without the aid of the port output in this band. I do not recommend the Kappa Perfect tuned under 20Hz(which gives you F3 around 19Hz) for this reason. You need a driver with linear excursion nearing 30mm, if you want to use a 12" driver tuned to such low frequency. A driver like the JLW7 or TC Sounds made high excursion series drivers would be more suitable for this very low tuning. Or go with a super-massive box with one of the popular 15 or 18" drivers. But do realize, there is no such thing as building a massive box, and not having to get into fine construction details. Failure to do so will result in substantial sound quality reduction. Such a large box will have serious resonances(related to both the physical structure and due to the internal cavity acoustics) if not addressed properly.

-Chris

Chris,
Believe you me I wont just go build a garbage enclosure.
It will be made of 3/4" mdf, gorilla glue, I have a router, will be renting a circle jig, and I will take my time and clamp well.
All this after I decide on the driver and have people help me model the ideal enclosure for me.
I just think I have limitations as to how complex of a design I can build at a high quality level.
I plan to use bracing reccomended and will be using a double front baffle.

I have higher expectations now....and plenty of more educated than I people here and there to help.

 

[annunaki]

Chris,
Believe you me I wont just go build a garbage enclosure.
It will be made of 3/4" mdf, gorilla glue, I have a router, will be renting a circle jig, and I will take my time and clamp well.
All this after I decide on the driver and have people help me model the ideal enclosure for me.
I just think I have limitations as to how complex of a design I can build at a high quality level.
I plan to use bracing reccomended and will be using a double front baffle.

I have higher expectations now....and plenty of more educated than I people here and there to help.

Scrap the gorilla glue. You will want to use the Titebond original wood glue or Elmer's original wood glue. Those two actually bond the two pieces of wood as one. Gorilla glue is nice to hold items in place for a bit but not to hold an enclosure together.

If you have sloppy cuts, Liquid Nails works well as it fills the gaps.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

Cuts should be good as my H.D. cuts them and if I offer $10 the guy will take his time.
Thanks for the tip on the glue choice though!
What type of screws do you prefer and should Icountersink them and then wood putty them up?

 

[WmAx]

Cuts should be good as my H.D. cuts them and if I offer $10 the guy will take his time.
Thanks for the tip on the glue choice though!
What type of screws do you prefer and should Icountersink them and then wood putty them up?

Annukai is correct on the glue. Use Titebond Original. It is the strongest type of glue for wood to wood bonding, despite all of the fancy new glues that are available today.

When I use screws, I use decking screws, and yes, countersink them and bondo over them. But I prefer to use an air brad nailer and glue, nail and clamp for a couple of hours. Using the brad nailer, you don't have to countersink anything, and many times you can get away without using clamps as long as you assembly the piece on a stable surface and leave it to set for several hours.

-Chris

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

That would be easier....thanks!

As soon as I land a driver I will need your guys expertise for designing.
Unless it is a Perfect 12, in which case I have all I need and I realize that and have saved that now.

I had an original Tempest for $99 shipped that was never used, stored away, still factory sealed....but it slipped away.

 

[WmAx]

You really need to figure out your objective, which seems to be the real problem. For SQ, the Perfect, no question, is ideal. If you want monster SPL, you need to go with something like JLW7 or TC Sounds LMS drivers.

-Chris

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

Well, the LMS drivers are too much, same with w7's.
In place of them would be choices of:
Maelstrom-X(really too much though)
Tempest-X
Shiva-X
CSS SDX-15(possibly too much)
Mach 5 Audio IXL 15 or 18
Others as well, but these seem to get the best feedback.
I've been trying to land a TC sounds TC1000/2000/3000 but have come up empty for awhile now.

I want to make my eD A5-550 sound like it was too quite, yet also better it in SQ.
With the power I have and the eq, I can go sealed or vented.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

I have made a few more important choices.
1. I want to go sealed.
2. I want to get at least 105dB @ 20Hz.(modeled...so in room would get that even a little higher most likely)

 

[TLS Guy]

I have made a few more important choices.
1. I want to go sealed.
2. I want to get at least 105dB @ 20Hz.(modeled...so in room would get that even a little higher most likely)

You won't get that without EQ no matter what driver you pick. You can use the kappa perfect 12 VQ no insert with 12 db per octave boost starting at 30 Hz.

 

[E-A-G-L-E-S]

I do have the eQ.2 Ibought and my AVR's Audyssey.
I made need something better, but this is a start.
I thought I had a used TC 3000, but lost. Then Ispotted a TC 2000, but he didn't have much feedback so I stayed away.
Seems the SDX-15 would do the job and possibly the Tempest-X.
Same with your plan.
There is also a sale on the nonservo ds12's from rythmik and two of those 12" would be good, except for below 25Hz....so I'm not so sure about those...maybe if I wanted vented I could drag them lower.

So I'm down to really only three.
SDX-15
Tempest-X
Perfect 12
--or a used TC sounds 15"(1K,2K,3K...3K being ideal for a small sealed with tons of power)


**I sent you a PM