What type of termination do you prefer for 10 awg speaker wire

MinusTheBear

MinusTheBear

Audioholic Ninja
I am getting a second subwoofer so I have to put in another order to Blue Jeans cable for the cable and the y-adapter. I currently run un-terminated Blue Jeans 10 awg through my receiver and speakers:eek:. It was a pain in the *** to get connected but I got it to work without any hitches. Since I am putting in this order, I thought I would invest in some termination for the speaker wire. If I ever have to disconnect my system it will be an utter pain in the *** to get it all hooked up again considering how thick the BJC 10 awg is. I am thinking of ordering their locking Bananna Plugs. Is there something else you prefer? They have been recommended before and people that own them seem happy with them. For a 5.2 system I would need 10 pairs correct? Thanks for the input!
 
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Midcow2

Midcow2

Banned
Locking Banana plugs

I am getting a second subwoofer so I have to put in another order to Blue Jeans cable for the cable and the y-adapter. I currently run un-terminated Blue Jeans 10 awg through my receiver and speakers:eek:. It was a pain in the *** to get connected but I got it to work without any hitches. Since I am putting in this order, I thought I would invest in some termination for the speaker wire. If I ever have to disconnect my system it will be an utter pain in the *** to get it all hooked up again considering how thick the BJC 10 awg is. I am thinking of ordering their locking Bananna Plugs. Is there something else you prefer? They have been recommended before and people that own them seem happy with them. For a 5.2 system I would need 10 pairs correct? Thanks for the input!
I like monoprice's locking banana plugs. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=2801&seq=1&format=2
I am not sure you need 10 gauge that is an overkill :D, 14 gauge is good or it want really thick wire 12 gauge. But that is a whole other discussion.:rolleyes:

Actually you would need 10 wires or 5 pairs to hook up the 5 speakers. and then the y-cable and two RCA audio cables for the two subs.

LOL, I bought 20 (because of price break at 20) of the above plugs and i am waiting until I pull out my Amoire HT cabinet to hook up!

Woo Hoo hit 750 posts :p
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
I prefer ring lugs because you must unscrew the nut off the binding posts completely to remove them. Although with most consumer gear you cant do that. I also like spades. Or plain bare wire. I dont care much for bannana's

really its what You prefer :p Bannana's are the easiest. Bare wire is the hardest but cheapest.
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I prefer ring lugs because you must unscrew the nut off the binding posts completely to remove them. Although with most consumer gear you cant do that. I also like spades. Or plain bare wire. I dont care much for bannana's

really its what You prefer :p Bannana's are the easiest. Bare wire is the hardest but cheapest.
Have you seen the Blue Jeans locking bananas? I don't think you have. If you had, you'd be singing a different tuuune. :) Not all bananas are created equal. You should see mine. :D

I got the bananas for the back of the receiver and spades for the speakers. I haven't installed them yet but I still love 'em. :D

I have installed 1 of the BJC bananas on some 14/4 speaker wire just to get a feel for it. Now 2 of the 14 guage wires are the equivelent of 11 guage and it barely fit. I would ask BJC if their locking bananas will work with their 10 guage speaker cables.
 
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Midcow2

Midcow2

Banned
connectors - wire guage

I prefer ring lugs because you must unscrew the nut off the binding posts completely to remove them. Although with most consumer gear you cant do that. I also like spades. Or plain bare wire. I dont care much for bannana's

really its what You prefer :p Bannana's are the easiest. Bare wire is the hardest but cheapest.
You need to be careful with spades; if you don't crimp correctly you effectively are using a much higher gauge wire.

Both the nut posts and reguglar screw posets with bare wire make good connections. But again, becuase of the closenees of some/most speaker posts you need to becarefuly of whisker wires and resulting whisker shorts.

You can tin the ends pf bare wire, but if you over-tin an glob the solder you are worst off.

Some off the newer locking banana make a very secure physical and good conducting electrical connections. You might want to relook your thought on banana plugs :rolleyes:.

You pay more , but if you are not a DIY on end connectors , you can get exact calbe lengths with very secure connections from reputable cable/wire vendors such as bluejeancables on monoprice.
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023901&p_id=2789&seq=1&format=2

If you have extra $$$ to burn on cables Kimber Kables makes very good but very expensive cables. http://www.kimber.com/


10 gauge wire is a noverkill , you get absolutely no additional audio benfent by going to such a arge gauge. But everyone has thier own thought about cable bigger is better more expensive is better. But the scientific fact is that copper is copper and you can't change it's physical properties. Even 12 gauge is much more than needed. But just to provide you with a very,very quick reason , sse below:

Assuming typical cable run is 25ft or less, but for simplicity I will only compare 25ft.

Gauge 25ft resistance wire %wire rest 8ohm %wire restistance 4 ohm
10............ 0.0295 ....................... 0.36 % .................. 0.73 %
12............ 0.04675 ..................... 0.58 %................... 1.16 %
14............ 0.07425 ..................... 0.91 %................... 1.82%

So your ears must be phenomenal if you a hear a change of less than 2%.

Even look at the audioholics wire length recomendations, which by the way are ultra conservative http://www.audioholics.com/education/cables/speaker-cable-gauge

Speaker Impedance 8 Ohm Load ................4 Ohm Load
Wire Gauge................ Distance (ft).......... Distance (ft)

Gauge 8ohm max rec distance 4ohm max recommended distance
18 AWG................. 10 ..................................5
16 AWG.................. 20................................. 10
14 AWG.................. 35................................. 18
12 AWG.................. 60................................. 30
10 AWG................. 100................................. 50

So even with a 4 ohm speaker load Audioholics recommends 12 AWG for up to 30 foot runs.
 
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Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
You can tin the ends pf bare wire, but if you over-tin an glob the solder you are worst off.

.
Not to step on any toes but that has been deemed to be a bad idea by my betters (jneutron). I found where I read it but can now only remember the why of it all. I guess the idea is that solder under pressure (like in the binding post) tends to 'flow' again.

What is pf?

Thanks,
Alex
 
MinusTheBear

MinusTheBear

Audioholic Ninja
Thanks for all the info so far. I will double check their website to see if their is any info on this about 10 awg (I already have the wire) and locking bananna plugs. I know other members on this site have BJC wire hooked up to locking Bananna plugs but I am not sure if that was their 12 awg or 10 awg.
 
Midcow2

Midcow2

Banned
Soldering "old wive's tales" and myths

Not to step on any toes but that has been deemed to be a bad idea by my betters (jneutron). I found where I read it but can now only remember the why of it all. I guess the idea is that solder under pressure (like in the binding post) tends to 'flow' again.

What is pf?

Thanks,
Alex
Sorry typo -> pf= of

I understand some are against tinning and solder. But rosin core solder has been used for a long, long time. And yes you can get cold solder joints. But the idea of "flow under pressure" is highly overrated.

I challenge that very lightly tinned braided wire, is actually better than plain bare wire. "Lightly tinned" = heat wire an let is such up a little solder so that the copper wire still shows and is the dominant material.
Solder two wires together after properly physically twisting makes a very highly conductive LONG TERM connection.

However electronics and do-it-yourslf seems to have gone by the wayside with the demise of such companies as Heath and their Heath Kits and the revamping of Radio Shack for an eletronics parts store to primarily an an end product store; they still have cabinet with parts.

I would venture to say that few of the Audioholic members have ever built a FM Tuner or a power amp. Dynaco used to make some very good equipment that could be built from kits with solder.

Prpoer soldering is the key. Cold solder joints can cause conductive problems later. As well as improperly tinning? The proper way is to heat the wire with the soldering iron not the solder!

Anyway PEACE, I will get off my soldering bandstand. Everyone has thier own opinion. By my proof, is that my clock that I put together and soldered when LEDs were new and costly ($5 for 1" eight segment red LED display) still works fully after 32 years of continious operations! But I have done more soldering and more eletronics projects than i care to rememer. The hardest was a electronics design lab in college which you not only had to design to strict specifciations and requirements, you had to breadboard and solder a working model!
 
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Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
I think this jneutron guy built the Mars probe. :) When it comes to this kind of thing my hat is off to both of you. I've seen the kind of tech info you use in your posts and do respect that but when the builder of the Mars probe says something that will actually save me work, there is no contest. :D

So I'm lazy, shoot me.:p
 
MinusTheBear

MinusTheBear

Audioholic Ninja
I like monoprice's locking banana plugs. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=2801&seq=1&format=2


Actually you would need 10 wires or 5 pairs to hook up the 5 speakers. and then the y-cable and two RCA audio cables for the two subs.
If I were to order the locking bananna plugs I would need 10 pairs to hook them up to the speakers and to the receivers end? They come in pairs correct, so 1 pair would take care only 1 end of the wire, so I need 2 pairs per speaker?
 
Alex2507

Alex2507

Audioholic Slumlord
If I were to order the locking bananna plugs I would need 10 pairs to hook them up to the speakers and to the receivers end? They come in pairs correct, so 1 pair would take care only 1 end of the wire, so I need 2 pairs per speaker?
Yes, if your speaker will in fact accept a banana plug. My speakers won't so I ordered spade connectors for them. Everything came in pairs you do need 2 pairs of something for each speaker. I got 5 pairs of bananas and 5 pairs of spades. Then I got 4 more pairs of bananas for a DIY sub project that I will get around to before the end of days.

Can somebody post a link to those cable pants threads that all the cool kids have. After I put the one test banana on I realized that the time to be dressing them up is during the installation of the fancy ends, not after.

Thanks
Alex
 
Midcow2

Midcow2

Banned
Pairs

If I were to order the locking bananna plugs I would need 10 pairs to hook them up to the speakers and to the receivers end? They come in pairs correct, so 1 pair would take care only 1 end of the wire, so I need 2 pairs per speaker?
After Rereading their site, I believe you are right. :eek: Sorry Mea Cuklpa Thier pair consists of on black and one red.

1 PAIR OF High-Quality Copper Speaker Banana Plugs - Closed Screw Type [JX-74043]
High Quality, Gold plated 4mm speaker connector (banana plug) with the rear cable entry.

Banana plugs make speaker installation a breeze. No more worring about stray strands shorting across terminals and overloading your equipment. These sturdy plugs look nice and provide a solid contact.

Can accept bare wire or spades.
Can accept 18 to 12 AWG speaker wires.
Color coded black/red rings for maintaining proper polarity.
Secure, positive conntact with binding posts.
Corrosion resistant, 24K gold plated finish
Cooper body construction and ferromanganese tips



So you need a pair of pairs (red , black) per speaker. So you are correct 10 pairs.

The monoprice are only recommended for 18-12 AWG gauge. If you have 10 gauge you can either look for some differnet plugs or slightly thin the end wore to a 12 gauge size. I think the latter would work fine, maybe a little easier than you current bare wire connection struggle.



H'mmm 10 gauge connectors (no trimming):

This looks pretty good a 20 pack , just what you need for $49.95
GLS Audio Banana Plug Speaker Connectors - Locking Series - 20 Pack
http://www.speakerrepair.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BL20&Category_Code=


Here are some 10-12 gauge $5.95 per two. discounted price $2.95
http://www.summitsource.com/product_info.php?ref=1&products_id=6859

8-14 gauge 10 pairs $79.95
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/515830-REG/Phoenix_Gold_A405B10_Banana_Plug_Compression_Style_.html

up to 10 gauge $3.60 per pair.
https://www.tselectronic.com/vanco/banana.html?tse_Session=41f361da93584f6409f0fa143c3e6bf8

http://www.silversonic.com/docs/products/Connectors3.html
looks good locking- no prices.
 
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AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
I have the BJC 10 AWG + locking banana plugs. The BJC 10 awg wires have NO trouble fitting the locking bananas at all. I also bought the heat-shrink, but from another store because I don't think BJC sells heat-shrink.
 
Midcow2

Midcow2

Banned
Good Solution !

I have the BJC 10 AWG + locking banana plugs. The BJC 10 awg wires have NO trouble fitting the locking bananas at all. I also bought the heat-shrink, but from another store because I don't think BJC sells heat-shrink.
This looks like a great solution! Thanks AcuDefTechGuy ;)
 
MinusTheBear

MinusTheBear

Audioholic Ninja
My speakers all have binding posts which have 5 way connectors. My front speakers and centre channel will have no problem with the bananna plugs however I am not sure how well they will work with my Axiom QS4 surround speakers. I have them hooked up to the wall with the standard T bracket that comes with them. The speakers can accept the bannanna plug but I am not sure if it will be feasable with that type of connection with the on wall configuration. Maybe spades or just bare wire would work better with those?
 
Haoleb

Haoleb

Audioholic Field Marshall
You need to be careful with spades; if you don't crimp correctly you effectively are using a much higher gauge wire.


Some off the newer locking banana make a very secure physical and good conducting electrical connections. You might want to relook your thought on banana plugs :rolleyes:.
Whenever I have put spades on myself I usually will cold weld them on there by hitting them on with a hammer which creates a much tighter, gas free connection than crimping could.

I'll admit that I have yet to use locking bannana plugs, And one of the more prominent problems I have faced with them is their lack of a secure connection. But even then they wouldnt work well for my application because of the way the wire sticks out the end of the plug on most designs would be putting far too much stress on the plug and binding post with the overkill 8/4 speaker cable i'm using :D
 
Midcow2

Midcow2

Banned
Spade connectors are fine just crimp or solder them

;)
My speakers all have binding posts which have 5 way connectors. My front speakers and centre channel will have no problem with the bananna plugs however I am not sure how well they will work with my Axiom QS4 surround speakers. I have them hooked up to the wall with the standard T bracket that comes with them. The speakers can accept the bannanna plug but I am not sure if it will be feasable with that type of connection with the on wall configuration. Maybe spades or just bare wire would work better with those?
Just checked very nice QS4 surrounds! ;)

Spade connectors are fine just solder or crimp them want a good crimping tool or buy some of the newer screw-on spades.

good crimping article:
http://svconline.com/mag/avinstall_crimp_connectors_not/
http://www.kampenwagen.co.uk/Crimping.htm

crimping tool:

Here is a pretty good one that also strips wire!
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062787&cp=&sr=1&origkw=crimping+tool&kw=crimping+tool&parentPage=search


These look like some good spade lugs:
http://www.thecablepro.com/cableDetail.php?cID=37&cgID=1

These screw-on look pretty good but only up to 12 AWG (American Wire Gauge)
http://www.vandenhul.com/p_F99.aspx

http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=178765

http://www.bizrate.com/audiovideocables_adapters/oid817668907__nwylf--.html
 
MinusTheBear

MinusTheBear

Audioholic Ninja
Are spade connectors in general better for on-wall configurations over banannas?
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
I don't think spade vs banana makes any difference aside from space issues. For on-wall with tight clearance, I've used spade.

Bluejeans and GLS locking connectors are essentially the same. Here's a pic of mine:

 
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MinusTheBear

MinusTheBear

Audioholic Ninja
I don't think spade vs banana makes any difference aside from space issues. For on-wall with tight clearance, I've used spade.
Yes that is my exact problem, with the standard T bracket there is little clearance (the bumbers help a little). I guess with the surrounds I will go locking bananna to spade. I remember a pic you showed me before of your locking bannana plugs hooked up to your speakers and I must say they looked really really cool:cool:.
 
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