DIY System - Starting with Sub - $1500 budget (for sub(s))

G

GTHill

Audioholic
Well, I think I want dual sub woofers. I really like things in pairs so, unless it is not recommended, I would like to build two subs.

So, which subs should I use? I was looking at the AudoPulse AX15Q1 AXIS 15" DVC Subwoofer 2 Ohm. Now, the sub is $750 each. I'm not afraid of that price, but I have a feeling that it would take quite a bit of power to operate. I see quite a few threads with the Infinity Subs that seems promising.

Box size and weight doesn't matter to me. I'm a big fanboy of the Wilson Audio brand and the sub that they sell is somewhere around 800lbs. I'm all for it. :)

Oh, I currently have a full Paradigm system with the Servo 15 as my sub. I will be selling it as soon as I finish the build on the subs.

Thanks for all of the help!

Gene
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Well, I think I want dual sub woofers. I really like things in pairs so, unless it is not recommended, I would like to build two subs.

So, which subs should I use? I was looking at the AudoPulse AX15Q1 AXIS 15" DVC Subwoofer 2 Ohm. Now, the sub is $750 each. I'm not afraid of that price, but I have a feeling that it would take quite a bit of power to operate. I see quite a few threads with the Infinity Subs that seems promising.

Box size and weight doesn't matter to me. I'm a big fanboy of the Wilson Audio brand and the sub that they sell is somewhere around 800lbs. I'm all for it. :)

Oh, I currently have a full Paradigm system with the Servo 15 as my sub. I will be selling it as soon as I finish the build on the subs.

Thanks for all of the help!

Gene
The Thiel/Small parameters for that Audio Pulse driver are incomplete and likely inaccurate. I did not like the information presented on the site at all. I think they are overpriced. I would use one of the kappa perfect 12 VQ alignments we have published in these forums. Those subs go down to the limit of hearing with spl to spare.
 
G

GTHill

Audioholic
The Thiel/Small parameters for that Audio Pulse driver are incomplete and likely inaccurate. I did not like the information presented on the site at all. I think they are overpriced. I would use one of the kappa perfect 12 VQ alignments we have published in these forums. Those subs go down to the limit of hearing with spl to spare.
I appreciate the quick feedback. That is just incredible that one of the best subs on the forums is under $300. Just out of curiosity, is there a "step up" from these... at any price?

Gene
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Really, there is no step up, in terms of sound quality. The Kappa Perfects are simply low distortion(far lower than a human can detect with music), transparent devices with incredible flexibility(the VQ versions have motors that can be physically adjusted to work in any alignment ideally).

Now, you can *upgrade* to higher SPL units, if you want to call that an upgrade. You can *upgrade* to something with lower frequency response - but in a large enough cabinet you can get high output at 12-13Hz or so with the 12VQ Kappa Perfects. So, if you want 8Hz at high SPL, you will need to look elsewhere. But consider that a single 12VQ in the proper slot ported enclosure tuned for SQ can output well over 110dB at 20Hz with no audible distortion in an average size room. So, how much SPL do you need for your application?

-Chris
 
Last edited:
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I appreciate the quick feedback. That is just incredible that one of the best subs on the forums is under $300. Just out of curiosity, is there a "step up" from these... at any price?

Gene
I agree with what WmAx say below. He was the one who pointed out the existence of this useful driver by the way. I have modeled the kappa perfect 12 VQ sealed mo insert and acouple of vented alignments for the low Qt insert and one vented for the mid Qt.

This first post has downloads of the files for the high Qt sealed enclosure and the low Qt alignment with one 4 inch flared vent.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=394329&postcount=25

This second post has the alignment for the low Qt insert alignment with a slot vent.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=394453&postcount=27

This third post has the alignment for the mid Qt insert vented with a slot vent. The port velocities are too high for a tube vent.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=408584&postcount=59

Please print off all those pdf files and study them. I think you will find that that driver is flexible and you have a lot of good choices.

Any questions please ask.
 
G

GTHill

Audioholic
Thanks again to both of you.

In terms of performance, I'm looking for more "punch" than I have with my Paradigm Servo 15. I'm actually fairly happy with that sub but I want to build my own system.

I'm trying to find some performance stats on the Servo 15.

Should I be concerned that a 12" sub can't replace a 15" sub?

Gene
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Thanks again to both of you.

In terms of performance, I'm looking for more "punch" than I have with my Paradigm Servo 15. I'm actually fairly happy with that sub but I want to build my own system.

I'm trying to find some performance stats on the Servo 15.

Should I be concerned that a 12" sub can't replace a 15" sub?

Gene
I recommend, first, you build a matching stereo pair of the Kappa Perfect subs. It helps with room loading symmetry and helps integrate better with the main channels. Also, realize, a single Kappa Perfect 12VQ in the proper ported enclosure will easily out perform a Paradigm Servo 15 under about 35-40Hz, based on the 3rd party measurements I have seen of the Servo 15. The Servo 15 is a good subwoofer, no doubt, but it's not up to par with a good DIY design.

What do you mean by 'punch'?

What frequency(and what crossover slope) are you using this sub?

How far is it from each main channel speaker?

Do you have a measured flat response for the bass around the listening position, or are their severe nulls present in the measured response?

-Chris
 
Last edited:
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Thanks again to both of you.

In terms of performance, I'm looking for more "punch" than I have with my Paradigm Servo 15. I'm actually fairly happy with that sub but I want to build my own system.

I'm trying to find some performance stats on the Servo 15.

Should I be concerned that a 12" sub can't replace a 15" sub?

Gene
As I have stated before, the size of the driver cone has nothing to do with F3 or punch.

The formulas for describing the performance rely on Fs and Q. In other words, the weight on the spring and the tightness or looseness of the spring.

Mechanically a loudspeaker is modeled as a weight on a spring. The enclosure is also a spring at resonance, so there is an interaction. The speaker is also an electrical spring, defined by Qes. This electrical spring also interacts with the box spring at resonance. So there are interacting variables.

Now for subs I would say current computer modeling is very accurate. So what you see in those pdfs, I feel confident, is what you will get.

Please review those, especially the mid Qt insert vented, which is probably the best performer of the bunch, although none are shabby. If there is something you don't like that you see in those graphs then ask.

Now you can't cookie cut any other speaker, I don't think, but modeling is improving. I would never suggest someone build a speaker other than a sub just from a design.

I would never encourage anyone to build a design of mine, that I had not built, measured and listened to.

I would get some books before you go further. I would suggest Vance Dickerson's loudspeaker Cook Book and Bullock on boxes for starters.

Building speakers is one of the best ways to get to understand this audio hobby. Years ago everybody was at it, and we need to return to those days.

So yes, you are the right lines wanting to build speakers, but you have to pay your dues with a little education.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Thanks again to both of you.

In terms of performance, I'm looking for more "punch" than I have with my Paradigm Servo 15. I'm actually fairly happy with that sub but I want to build my own system.

I'm trying to find some performance stats on the Servo 15.

Should I be concerned that a 12" sub can't replace a 15" sub?

Gene
You know Chris (WmAx) was correct to call you on the term punchy. I think I know what you mean. I think you mean a realistic definitive touch to the bass line. This is sometimes erroneously called "fast bass". There is no such think as fast bass.

I have thought about Chris calling you about your "punch" remark all day. It has led me to think it is time to post on the place of a sub in the system.

If you read these forums you could get the impression that the sub was the most important speaker in the system. In fact it is the most dispensable, unless you want a steady diet of Hollywood effects. Also you get the impression that if you have a "honking great sub" the rest of the system has little to do.

The fact is that apart from Hollywood effects and 32 foot organ stops there is little content below 60 Hz.

The fact is the real quality of the bass is determined by what happens above 60 Hz to 400 Hz, and even above that. The problem with speakers and their crossover is that the harmonics get separated in time and phase from their fundamentals. After all the sharpest transient of all is a square wave, and even if it is 20 Hz, a very good high frequency response is demanded to reproduce it. The sad fact is that the time and phasing problems cause most speakers to reproduce no facsimile to a square wave at all.

Now any good speaker system should give a good account of itself without a sub. It should not sound bass deficient if it has a good uniform response to the 50 to 60 Hz range. Any speaker when listened to that cries out, that speaker needs a sub, is a bad speaker period.

A bad speaker's problems are only masked by subs, not solved. Let us be frank, a great many speakers talked about on these forums, probably the majority are actually not very good. They have many problems and among them is a weak unrealistic non solid bass. Unfortunately their problems are above the sub range.

The problem is that the unskilled ear, thinks that by adding excess below 80 Hz the problem is solved, but it isn't.

If you listen to a sub only with the crossover at 80 Hz or lower, there is nothing "fast" or "punchy" about any of them.

So my question for you is how do your speakers sound without a sub?
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Now any good speaker system should give a good account of itself without a sub. It should not sound bass deficient if it has a good uniform response to the 50 to 60 Hz range. Any speaker when listened to that cries out, that speaker needs a sub, is a bad speaker period.

A bad speaker's problems are only masked by subs, not solved. Let us be frank, a great many speakers talked about on these forums, probably the majority are actually not very good. They have many problems and among them is a weak unrealistic non solid bass. Unfortunately their problems are above the sub range.
I hope you intended to qualify your statements a little more carefully, because as they stand, they could be assumed to apply to all circumstances.

One can take quality stereo subs, pair them with LF limited 2 way small speaker that otherwise are hi-fidelity, and end up with a high-fidelity 3 way system, assuming use of a proper active crossover system to integrate them ideally. It would be no different from a full-range tower speaker in concept - as long as the subs were kept within 1/2 the crossover wavelength in relation to distance from the 2 way speakers. There currently exist several high quality bookshelf speakers that are of relative low cost and have good mid-range and treble characteristics, but lack useful output under 65-75 Hz. There is no reason to avoid pairing these with high quality stereo subs ; integrating them with a precision active crossover.

-Chris
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I hope you intended to qualify your statements a little more carefully, because as they stand, they could be assumed to apply to all circumstances.

One can take quality stereo subs, pair them with LF limited 2 way small speaker that otherwise are hi-fidelity, and end up with a high-fidelity 3 way system, assuming use of a proper active crossover system to integrate them ideally. It would be no different from a full-range tower speaker in concept - as long as the subs were kept within 1/2 the crossover wavelength in relation to distance from the 2 way speakers. There currently exist several high quality bookshelf speakers that are of relative low cost and have good mid-range and treble characteristics, but lack useful output under 65-75 Hz. There is no reason to avoid pairing these with high quality stereo subs ; integrating them with a precision active crossover.

-Chris
That is true, if properly balanced it will be in effect a powered three way. However, I maintain that a well designed bookshelf should have a good performance to 60 Hz, and be properly voiced and balanced. It should still be a satisfying listen in my view. The sub should then add the last one and a half octaves, in a subtle manner.
 
G

GTHill

Audioholic
Hmm... I never thought one word would get me into this much explaining... unless it was a wrong word to my wife. :)

How to define "punch". Again, excuse me for being a Wilson Audio fanboy, they are just the best thing I have ever heard. When I heard the Wilson speakers they were demo'd with Master and Commander (I've never actually watched the entire movie) and during the famous cannon scene(s), the sound from the speakers felt like I was getting punched. Now that I think about it, it is unlikely that the feeling was from the sub. Most likely the drivers themselves.

How do my speakers sound? I have Paradigm Studio 100's and I'm fairly happy with them. However, I'm not sure that I have an ear for this type of thing like many of you do. I need proper training in what to listen for.

I do not believe that the sub is the most important part of the system, far from it. I chose to build sub(s) first because from the posts I have read, they can be a bit simpler to construct.

I should add that I am a decent amateur at wood working so any aspect of the construction doesn't scare me, but I know that there will be challenges.

Thanks again for the discussion. It helps me greatly.

Gene
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Hmm... I never thought one word would get me into this much explaining... unless it was a wrong word to my wife. :)

How to define "punch". Again, excuse me for being a Wilson Audio fanboy, they are just the best thing I have ever heard. When I heard the Wilson speakers they were demo'd with Master and Commander (I've never actually watched the entire movie) and during the famous cannon scene(s), the sound from the speakers felt like I was getting punched. Now that I think about it, it is unlikely that the feeling was from the sub. Most likely the drivers themselves.

How do my speakers sound? I have Paradigm Studio 100's and I'm fairly happy with them. However, I'm not sure that I have an ear for this type of thing like many of you do. I need proper training in what to listen for.

I do not believe that the sub is the most important part of the system, far from it. I chose to build sub(s) first because from the posts I have read, they can be a bit simpler to construct.

I should add that I am a decent amateur at wood working so any aspect of the construction doesn't scare me, but I know that there will be challenges.

Thanks again for the discussion. It helps me greatly.

Gene
A sub is a good place to start to build speakers, because it is easier.
 
G

GTHill

Audioholic
Should I go through the research and design my own enclosure or is there a place online that purchase plans? I read the .pdf's that were linked, but at this point they don't mean much.

I agree that I need to educate myself, but I'm also really eager to start using my new FESTOOL equipment to build the enclosure. :)

I look forward to it!

Gene
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Should I go through the research and design my own enclosure or is there a place online that purchase plans? I read the .pdf's that were linked, but at this point they don't mean much.

I agree that I need to educate myself, but I'm also really eager to start using my new FESTOOL equipment to build the enclosure. :)

I look forward to it!

Gene
I can suggest volume and port specifications, as well as general bracing/construction rules to optimize the design.

-Chris
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Should I go through the research and design my own enclosure or is there a place online that purchase plans? I read the .pdf's that were linked, but at this point they don't mean much.

I agree that I need to educate myself, but I'm also really eager to start using my new FESTOOL equipment to build the enclosure. :)

I look forward to it!

Gene
If you look at my print outs you will see the box specs. Vb is the enclosure volume. You have to add for the volume of the driver, braces and amp. The area and dimensions and length of he vents are specified. It is elementary math after that, to work out the dimensions for the proportion of the cabinet you desire. Build it good and strong with lots of braces. Make sure everything is sealed. Use lots of Tightbond and good luck.

I ended up in the hospital yesterday for another round. So my replies may be a bit sporadic for a day or two.
 
G

GTHill

Audioholic
TLS,

I hope that all goes well with your hospital visit.

How do we know that the manufacturer's volume specifications are correct?

I think I want to go the ported route since that seems superior. So, the "airflow" out of the port is very important (I suspect). That seems where it could be painful in the design.

Have to go back to work... thanks!

Gene
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
TLS,

I hope that all goes well with your hospital visit.

How do we know that the manufacturer's volume specifications are correct?

I think I want to go the ported route since that seems superior. So, the "airflow" out of the port is very important (I suspect). That seems where it could be painful in the design.

Have to go back to work... thanks!

Gene
I got sprung from the hospital about 90 minutes ago.

I think I have to give you a little tutorial.

I have to assume you know at least something about simple harmonic waves, resonance, and the propagation of sound. I also have to assume you have some acquaintance with the physics of the Helmholtz resonators and pipes.

Now a ported speaker enclosure is a Helmholtz resonator. The box has a resonance Fb. This is determined by the box volume and the dimensions of the port.

The speaker driver has two resonances. There is the mechanical resonance Qms determined by the weight of the cone and and the stiffness off the suspension. Now the Q of a resonances specifies the width of the resonance. The shape of the knee if you like.

Since the driver is an inductor it has electrical resonance specified by Qes.

Now there is a total resonance defined by Qts. These parameters determine the resonance of a speaker driver in free air, Fs. This pretty much sets the lowest frequency possible from the driver. For most deigns especially sealed it will be significantly above this frequency.

Now there is another very important driver parameter, that is the equivalent volume Vas. This is the volume of enclosed air at standard atmospheric pressure that has the same compliance, springyness, as the driver. It IS NOT the optimal box volume.

Now the driver parameters, and box parameters define the total performance of the system, which is defined by the point at which the system response is down 3 db form the average system level. This is the F3. The total system resonance is defined by the total Q which is Qtc, and in a ported system losses around the box resonant frequency Fb, this is QL.

I now want you to understand the specifications of the ported mid Qt insert ported sub.

Please download and print the pdf. in this post.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=408584&postcount=59

The Fs of the driver is 22.9 Hz. The Fb is 18.6 Hz. The tuning volume for for this is Vb is 4.63 cu. ft, and making allowance for driver volume and port we get a total enclosure volume of 5.79 cu.ft.

This enclosure is tuned by a slot vent, or port, that is 2.5 in X 12.5 inches and is 50.19 inches long. This long vent has to be built into the cabinet. The weight of air and its resistance is the weight on the spring so to speak determining Fb.

Now there is one aspect of this port you need to understand. The slot vent is in effect an open pipe. The resonant frequency of this pipe is the speed of sound divided by twice the vent length. This is 132 Hz. This fundamental, and the even harmonics of this fundamental have to be suppressed. You can do this by making sure that the crossover has fourth order, 24 db/octave slope, beginning at no higher than 66 Hz. Or else you need to make sure your plate amp has parametric Eq so you can notch out 132 Hz. The latter is best.

Now lets go through the graphs.

The first graph shows the relationship between frequency and output in db. Note that there is a 3db peak at 35 Hz. This is very good. The 3db point, F3, is about 18 Hz. Now I have played with QL to optimize the flatness of the response and at the same time extend it to 20 Hz.

The second graph shows the absolute db level possible with frequency for this system. It is 109 to 112 db through the sub operating range. This is plenty.

The third graph plots the absolute spl. versus frequency.

The fourth graph the absolute power input versus frequency.

The fourth graph is very important to understand and plots cone displacement against frequency. Note the maximum linear cone travel of this driver, xmax, is 16.75 mm. Please note that there is a cone displacement of 14.5 mm at around 30 Hz, at full power. Now note as the box tuning kicks in, the pressure really builds as port output becomes dominant and cone displacement drops to 6 mm at 20 Hz. Below system resonance the driver decouples and cone displacement goes off the clock and exceeds xmax by 15 Hz. This is wasted effort, and although the cone movement looks dramatic it is low spl highly distorted output. This graph shows why with a ported enclosure, a subsonic filter is a good idea.

The fifth graph is also important. It shows the air vent speed with frequency.
The maximum air velocity is 12 m/sec at 15 Hz. This is excellent and will not cause chuffing or port compression.

The sixth graph shows the impedance plotted against frequency and shows the classic double humped curve of a well aligned ported enclosure.

The final and seventh graph shows the phase response. You can see as the port takes over there is a maximum phase shift of around 130 degrees.

There is not enough space allowed on this site to post the group delay plot. They only allow 100 KB. It would be nice if those of us who get requests for this kind of help could have a slightly more generous allowance. There is significant group delay as the output transfers to the port, but nothing that is not typical for a ported sub.

So we are trusting the manufacturer, Infinity, to post reliable Thiel/Small parameters, and to build consistent drivers.

You are trusting a retired physician, who some members vow should be in the nursing home, to have optimally modeled this design. So you will have to take this design with some degree of trust. That will be your call.
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
I should let you know about the xmax of the kappa perfect drivers. This xmax given is absolute linear - not mechanical limit. The kappa perfect drivers appear to operate as perfect linear devices up to this rated xmax value. I have driven kappa perfect drivers to 50 % past the rated xmax value and not much compression occured, nor even very much distortion, surprisingly. As a result, you can allow some appreciable exceeding of this value in so far as modelling/designing a suitable alignment and choosing an appropriate high pass filter for protection of subsonic signals.

As for the fundamental pipe resonance, if it is at 132Hz, you can use a 4th order L-R cossover set to 80Hz and the response will be down by over 18dB by 132 Hz. Considering that most ported main speakers place the port resonance directly in the passband with no attenuation, I do not think most people would find a problem using a 4th order crossover at 80Hz with this design. The notch filter while being ideal, is likely only needed by perfectionists.

-Chris

I got sprung from the hospital about 90 minutes ago.

I think I have to give you a little tutorial.

I have to assume you know at least something about simple harmonic waves, resonance, and the propagation of sound. I also have to assume you have some acquaintance with the physics of the Helmholtz resonators and pipes.

Now a ported speaker enclosure is a Helmholtz resonator. The box has a resonance Fb. This is determined by the box volume and the dimensions of the port.

The speaker driver has two resonances. There is the mechanical resonance Qms determined by the weight of the cone and and the stiffness off the suspension. Now the Q of a resonances specifies the width of the resonance. The shape of the knee if you like.

Since the driver is an inductor it has electrical resonance specified by Qes.

Now there is a total resonance defined by Qts. These parameters determine the resonance of a speaker driver in free air, Fs. This pretty much sets the lowest frequency possible from the driver. For most deigns especially sealed it will be significantly above this frequency.

Now there is another very important driver parameter, that is the equivalent volume Vas. This is the volume of enclosed air at standard atmospheric pressure that has the same compliance, springyness, as the driver. It IS NOT the optimal box volume.

Now the driver parameters, and box parameters define the total performance of the system, which is defined by the point at which the system response is down 3 db form the average system level. This is the F3. The total system resonance is defined by the total Q which is Qtc, and in a ported system losses around the box resonant frequency Fb, this is QL.

I now want you to understand the specifications of the ported mid Qt insert ported sub.

Please download and print the pdf. in this post.

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showpost.php?p=408584&postcount=59

The Fs of the driver is 22.9 Hz. The Fb is 18.6 Hz. The tuning volume for for this is Vb is 4.63 cu. ft, and making allowance for driver volume and port we get a total enclosure volume of 5.79 cu.ft.

This enclosure is tuned by a slot vent, or port, that is 2.5 in X 12.5 inches and is 50.19 inches long. This long vent has to be built into the cabinet. The weight of air and its resistance is the weight on the spring so to speak determining Fb.

Now there is one aspect of this port you need to understand. The slot vent is in effect an open pipe. The resonant frequency of this pipe is the speed of sound divided by twice the vent length. This is 132 Hz. This fundamental, and the even harmonics of this fundamental have to be suppressed. You can do this by making sure that the crossover has fourth order, 24 db/octave slope, beginning at no higher than 66 Hz. Or else you need to make sure your plate amp has parametric Eq so you can notch out 132 Hz. The latter is best.

Now lets go through the graphs.

The first graph shows the relationship between frequency and output in db. Note that there is a 3db peak at 35 Hz. This is very good. The 3db point, F3, is about 18 Hz. Now I have played with QL to optimize the flatness of the response and at the same time extend it to 20 Hz.

The second graph shows the absolute db level possible with frequency for this system. It is 109 to 112 db through the sub operating range. This is plenty.

The third graph plots the absolute spl. versus frequency.

The fourth graph the absolute power input versus frequency.

The fourth graph is very important to understand and plots cone displacement against frequency. Note the maximum linear cone travel of this driver, xmax, is 16.75 mm. Please note that there is a cone displacement of 14.5 mm at around 30 Hz, at full power. Now note as the box tuning kicks in, the pressure really builds as port output becomes dominant and cone displacement drops to 6 mm at 20 Hz. Below system resonance the driver decouples and cone displacement goes off the clock and exceeds xmax by 15 Hz. This is wasted effort, and although the cone movement looks dramatic it is low spl highly distorted output. This graph shows why with a ported enclosure, a subsonic filter is a good idea.

The fifth graph is also important. It shows the air vent speed with frequency.
The maximum air velocity is 12 m/sec at 15 Hz. This is excellent and will not cause chuffing or port compression.

The sixth graph shows the impedance plotted against frequency and shows the classic double humped curve of a well aligned ported enclosure.

The final and seventh graph shows the phase response. You can see as the port takes over there is a maximum phase shift of around 130 degrees.

There is not enough space allowed on this site to post the group delay plot. They only allow 100 KB. It would be nice if those of us who get requests for this kind of help could have a slightly more generous allowance. There is significant group delay as the output transfers to the port, but nothing that is not typical for a ported sub.

So we are trusting the manufacturer, Infinity, to post reliable Thiel/Small parameters, and to build consistent drivers.

You are trusting a retired physician, who some members vow should be in the nursing home, to have optimally modeled this design. So you will have to take this design with some degree of trust. That will be your call.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I should let you know about the xmax of the kappa perfect drivers. This xmax given is absolute linear - not mechanical limit. The kappa perfect drivers appear to operate as perfect linear devices up to this rated xmax value. I have driven kappa perfect drivers to 50 % past the rated xmax value and not much compression occured, nor even very much distortion, surprisingly. As a result, you can allow some appreciable exceeding of this value in so far as modelling/designing a suitable alignment and choosing an appropriate high pass filter for protection of subsonic signals.

As for the fundamental pipe resonance, if it is at 132Hz, you can use a 4th order L-R cossover set to 80Hz and the response will be down by over 18dB by 132 Hz. Considering that most ported main speakers place the port resonance directly in the passband with no attenuation, I do not think most people would find a problem using a 4th order crossover at 80Hz with this design. The notch filter while being ideal, is likely only needed by perfectionists.

-Chris
It is good to know that those drivers are conservatively rated. Any how if we use the spec. model there is still more than adequate performance. Anything above spec. is a bonus.

I agree that a 24 db crossover at 80 Hz should be adequate.

One thing I should explain to the OP, is light fill. With a sub like this you can use no fill, or cover up to 50% of the internal surface with Polyfill.
 

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